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Default Checking water pressure

I'm considering buying a kitchen tap that has a recommended working
pressure of 1.0 - 5.0 bar.

So, how do I check the pressure with the current tap still installed?

TIA

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Default Checking water pressure

F wrote:
I'm considering buying a kitchen tap that has a recommended working
pressure of 1.0 - 5.0 bar.

So, how do I check the pressure with the current tap still installed?

TIA


http://www.screwfix.com/prods/82412

Connect to your outside tap, or any other mains water supply (Like a
washing machine feed (assuming it is mains fed), and it will tell you
the pressure.

If the tap is connected to the mains water (If it is the main Kitchen
tap, then it should be!) I would expect your new tap to be fine.

Toby...
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Default Checking water pressure

On 01/05/2009 11:22 Toby wrote:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/82412

Connect to your outside tap, or any other mains water supply (Like a
washing machine feed (assuming it is mains fed), and it will tell you
the pressure.


Thanks, but is there a way to do this without any equipment. Timing the
flow into a bucket?

If the tap is connected to the mains water (If it is the main Kitchen
tap, then it should be!) I would expect your new tap to be fine.


I suspect the present tap is a 'low pressure' tap so might not be
comparable.

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Default Checking water pressure

news@nowhere wrote:
On 01/05/2009 11:22 Toby wrote:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/82412

Connect to your outside tap, or any other mains water supply (Like a
washing machine feed (assuming it is mains fed), and it will tell you
the pressure.


Thanks, but is there a way to do this without any equipment. Timing the
flow into a bucket?


The minimum water pressure (as guaranteed by Ofwat) is meant to be
around 10 metres, or 1 bar, to a degree of approximation.

If you open the tap full, this corresponds to filling a one gallon
container in about 30 seconds.

I wouldn't think you have more than the 5 bar that you quoted.
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Default Checking water pressure

Jim wrote:

news@nowhere wrote:


The minimum water pressure (as guaranteed by Ofwat) is meant to be
around 10 metres, or 1 bar, to a degree of approximation.

If you open the tap full, this corresponds to filling a one gallon
container in about 30 seconds.

I wouldn't think you have more than the 5 bar that you quoted.


OTOH, if the hot water is not at mains pressure, then it could
very well be marginal.

Chris
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Default Checking water pressure

F wrote:

I'm considering buying a kitchen tap that has a recommended working
pressure of 1.0 - 5.0 bar.

So, how do I check the pressure with the current tap still installed?


I can't imagine the pressure exceeding 5 bar.
Wouldn't the Water Authority tell you if this was possible?


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e-mail: gayleard /at/ eircom.net
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College Dublin

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Default Checking water pressure


"Jim" wrote in message
...
news@nowhere wrote:
On 01/05/2009 11:22 Toby wrote:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/82412

Connect to your outside tap, or any other mains water supply (Like a
washing machine feed (assuming it is mains fed), and it will tell you
the pressure.


Thanks, but is there a way to do this without any equipment. Timing the
flow into a bucket?


The minimum water pressure (as guaranteed by Ofwat) is meant to be
around 10 metres, or 1 bar, to a degree of approximation.


Where is the reading taken? They are only resposible for the flow and
pressure up to your stoptap in the street IMHO


Adam


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Timothy Murphy wrote:

I can't imagine the pressure exceeding 5 bar.


My static pressure is ~10bar. Can't be sure as my gauge only goes up to
7 bar but when I did it via a length of garden hose you could hear[1]
there was still a bit to go as it reached the end of the scale.


[1] One gets used to the rate of change of flow sounds as well as the
creaks & groans of hose & hoselock connectors when pressurising a closed
hose!

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Default Checking water pressure

On Fri, 01 May 2009 12:18:57 +0100 someone who may be F
news@nowhere wrote this:-

Thanks, but is there a way to do this without any equipment. Timing the
flow into a bucket?


That tells volume flow rate, not pressure.

If there is a washing machine point in the house
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/82412/...ure-Test-Gauge
would do the job.

I suspect the present tap is a 'low pressure' tap so might not be
comparable.


The cold side should be connected to the main. The hot side is more
likely to be a problem. What sort of hot water system is there and,
if it is fed by a storage tank how high is this above the tap? As
has been implied to get 1 bar it needs to be 10m above (a rough
approximation but good enough).

These are all static pressures (though the main pressure is likely
to vary over time).



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Default Checking water pressure

In article , Scott M wrote:
Timothy Murphy wrote:

I can't imagine the pressure exceeding 5 bar.


My static pressure is ~10bar. Can't be sure as my gauge only goes up to
7 bar but when I did it via a length of garden hose you could hear[1]
there was still a bit to go as it reached the end of the scale.


[1] One gets used to the rate of change of flow sounds as well as the
creaks & groans of hose & hoselock connectors when pressurising a closed
hose!


Ah yes. Ours is about 8.5 bar. It blows hozelock Y valves apart quite
nicely.

(Which wouldn't be so bad if they didn't cost so much )-:

Gordon


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Default Checking water pressure

On Fri, 01 May 2009 11:16:36 +0100, F wrote:

I'm considering buying a kitchen tap that has a recommended working
pressure of 1.0 - 5.0 bar.

So, how do I check the pressure with the current tap still installed?


Check that it turns off when you turn off the stopcock. That way you know
it's on the mains. Mains is by law not less than 0.7 bar and generally
several times that.


--
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Scott M coughed up some electrons that declared:

Timothy Murphy wrote:

I can't imagine the pressure exceeding 5 bar.


My static pressure is ~10bar. Can't be sure as my gauge only goes up to
7 bar but when I did it via a length of garden hose you could hear[1]
there was still a bit to go as it reached the end of the scale.


Bloody hell. I thought my 7.5 bar was excessive.

[1] One gets used to the rate of change of flow sounds as well as the
creaks & groans of hose & hoselock connectors when pressurising a closed
hose!


At least you don't need to buy a pressure washer!
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Default Checking water pressure

Mains is by law not less than 0.7 bar and
generally several times that.


John

Do you have a source for that please? I ask as I was checking a few
weeks ago (with a view to a new boiler) and found then in the OFWAT FAQ:

"The guaranteed standards scheme (GSS) sets out that water companies
shall maintain a minimum pressure of water in the communication pipe
serving the premises supplied with water of seven metres static head.
Companies also monitor the number of properties at risk of low pressure
against an indicator known as DG2. The DG2 measure is ten metres head of
pressure, at the external stop tap, at a flow of nine litres per minute.
This should be sufficient to fill a one-gallon (4.5 litre) container in
30 seconds. "

Of course the GSS may not set the same minimum as the law but I'd like
to know where I stand in case I end up with a marginal supply.
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On Fri, 01 May 2009 22:37:41 +0000, neverwas wrote:

Do you have a source for that please?


Not that I could lay my hands on. I'm probably remembering the same one
you quote (or that your quote refers to).



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On 01/05/2009 17:11 David Hansen wrote:

What sort of hot water system is there and,
if it is fed by a storage tank how high is this above the tap?


Hot water is stored in a cylinder topped up from a cold water tank in
the loft. Tap to bottom of the loft tank? No more than ~5M.

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F wrote:

Hot water is stored in a cylinder topped up from a cold water tank in
the loft. Tap to bottom of the loft tank? No more than ~5M.


Your hot pressure will be 0.5bar. Might work ok with that tap, but might
be a bit dribbly.

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Tim S wrote:

At least you don't need to buy a pressure washer!


Hah! Yes, you certainly don't stick your fingers in front of the fine
nozzle of the hose gun thingy!

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On 02/05/2009 10:22 Scott M wrote:

Your hot pressure will be 0.5bar. Might work ok with that tap, but might
be a bit dribbly.


Thanks. Looks like it might be a good idea to find something that works
on a lower pressure.

I don't like dribbly...

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Gordon Henderson wrote:
Timothy Murphy wrote:

I can't imagine the pressure exceeding 5 bar.


My static pressure is ~10bar. Can't be sure as my gauge only goes up to
7 bar but when I did it via a length of garden hose you could hear[1]
there was still a bit to go as it reached the end of the scale.

....
Ah yes. Ours is about 8.5 bar. It blows hozelock Y valves apart quite
nicely.


You are all very lucky.
My pressure is so low I have to use a pump
to get the water up to the tank in the attic
(admittedly very high).

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e-mail: gayleard /at/ eircom.net
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College Dublin

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Timothy Murphy wrote:
Gordon Henderson wrote:
Timothy Murphy wrote:

I can't imagine the pressure exceeding 5 bar.
My static pressure is ~10bar. Can't be sure as my gauge only goes up to
7 bar but when I did it via a length of garden hose you could hear[1]
there was still a bit to go as it reached the end of the scale.

...
Ah yes. Ours is about 8.5 bar. It blows hozelock Y valves apart quite
nicely.


You are all very lucky.
My pressure is so low I have to use a pump
to get the water up to the tank in the attic
(admittedly very high).


An outside tap or washing machine inlet is the usual place to check
pressure I think.


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Gordon Henderson wrote:
In article , Scott M wrote:
Timothy Murphy wrote:

I can't imagine the pressure exceeding 5 bar.

My static pressure is ~10bar. Can't be sure as my gauge only goes up to
7 bar but when I did it via a length of garden hose you could hear[1]
there was still a bit to go as it reached the end of the scale.


[1] One gets used to the rate of change of flow sounds as well as the
creaks & groans of hose & hoselock connectors when pressurising a closed
hose!


Ah yes. Ours is about 8.5 bar. It blows hozelock Y valves apart quite
nicely.

(Which wouldn't be so bad if they didn't cost so much )-:

Gordon

Hi,

You can get pressure reduction valves http://www.rwc.co.uk/prod-CAT4.html

might work out cheaper than the hozelock kit.

James
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In article ,
James Salisbury wrote:
Gordon Henderson wrote:
In article , Scott M wrote:
Timothy Murphy wrote:

I can't imagine the pressure exceeding 5 bar.
My static pressure is ~10bar. Can't be sure as my gauge only goes up to
7 bar but when I did it via a length of garden hose you could hear[1]
there was still a bit to go as it reached the end of the scale.


[1] One gets used to the rate of change of flow sounds as well as the
creaks & groans of hose & hoselock connectors when pressurising a closed
hose!


Ah yes. Ours is about 8.5 bar. It blows hozelock Y valves apart quite
nicely.

(Which wouldn't be so bad if they didn't cost so much )-:

Gordon

Hi,

You can get pressure reduction valves http://www.rwc.co.uk/prod-CAT4.html

might work out cheaper than the hozelock kit.


Thanks - got them in-mind, however there is a secondary problem of
flow-rate which is rather pathetic and the water people say that as
it's an issue on my property they can't do anything about it. (They did
replace the street stop cock though). So 8.5 bar but less than 10 litres
per minute.

I think there's a pipe crushed under the alleyway, but digging it up
isn't an option right now..

Cheers,

Gordon
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Gordon Henderson wrote:

Ah yes. Ours is about 8.5 bar. It blows hozelock Y valves apart quite
nicely.


I'm always impressed that the joints don't just explode. The plastic
always seems quite thin and takes a hammering being dropped, etc.

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?
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We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Timothy Murphy
saying something like:

I can't imagine the pressure exceeding 5 bar.


Tell my Group Scheme (or LA) that. Last time I measured it, it was up
over 10bar in the wee small hours. A bit lower during the day, of
course, but still too high. I found it an absolute necessity to fit a
pressure reducer.
Amusingly, the mains pipe in the road suffers from a leak or
catastrophic blowout every month or so, somewhere up the line from me.
Will the LA fit pressure reducers? No, that's too fecking simple.
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