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Default Fitting New Banister Rail Between Existing Newel Posts

I'm removing an existing stair banister rail and associated paneling
underneath it, to replace it with a new banister and spindles. However
I want to retain (and not remove if possible) the existing newel
posts. Obviously(?) this precludes mortising the new rail into the
posts.

What's the best way of joining the new rail to the old posts?

David.
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Default Fitting New Banister Rail Between Existing Newel Posts

DavidM wrote:
I'm removing an existing stair banister rail and associated paneling
underneath it, to replace it with a new banister and spindles. However
I want to retain (and not remove if possible) the existing newel
posts. Obviously(?) this precludes mortising the new rail into the
posts.

What's the best way of joining the new rail to the old posts?

David.

About to do the same myself. Most obvious way is to go through the post
from the far side into the bannister rail and plug the hole.
Perhaps someone can help us both out with alternative ideas.
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Default Fitting New Banister Rail Between Existing Newel Posts

On 10 Feb, 11:13, DavidM wrote:
I'm removing an existing stair banister rail and associated paneling
underneath it, to replace it with a new banister and spindles. However
I want to retain (and not remove if possible) the existing newel
posts. Obviously(?) this precludes mortising the new rail into the
posts.

What's the best way of joining the new rail to the old posts?

David.


Secret screw from under the rail (will be covered by the rebate
capping).
Or, there will be enough 'give' to accomodate a 1" tenon (even with a
4" newel post) - mine did.

Phil.
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Default Fitting New Banister Rail Between Existing Newel Posts

On Feb 10, 11:13*am, DavidM wrote:
I'm removing an existing stair banister rail and associated paneling
underneath it, to replace it with a new banister and spindles. However
I want to retain (and not remove if possible) the existing newel
posts. Obviously(?) this precludes mortising the new rail into the
posts.

What's the best way of joining the new rail to the old posts?


I would use the fixings from the Richard Burbage range. You'll need to
prepare appropriate holes in the Newels and will have a small hole
cover on the opposite side to the rail.

MBQ
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Default Fitting New Banister Rail Between Existing Newel Posts

Man at B&Q wrote:
On Feb 10, 11:13 am, DavidM wrote:
I'm removing an existing stair banister rail and associated paneling
underneath it, to replace it with a new banister and spindles. However
I want to retain (and not remove if possible) the existing newel
posts. Obviously(?) this precludes mortising the new rail into the
posts.

What's the best way of joining the new rail to the old posts?


I would use the fixings from the Richard Burbage range. You'll need to
prepare appropriate holes in the Newels and will have a small hole
cover on the opposite side to the rail.

MBQ

Richard Burbage stuff appears in the Homebase stairparts leaflet.

I was hoping to retain my handrail as well as the the posts but it has
nails through it that fitted into the 1960s plank below it.

Unfortunately 1960s planks were also well jointed into the posts. Post
near the bottom of the stairs is on a right angle bend and the one at
the top is 1 and a half posts joined together to hold the stair
bannister and planks and the landing bannister and planks which are a
180 degree turn from the stairs.

I don't fancy replacing the whole posts nor especially filling all the
holes. Not sure about cutting and joining new newels on top. Needs to be
strong enough for me to swing around the 90 degrees at the bottom.

Any ideas?


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Default Fitting New Banister Rail Between Existing Newel Posts

DavidM wrote:
I'm removing an existing stair banister rail and associated paneling
underneath it, to replace it with a new banister and spindles. However
I want to retain (and not remove if possible) the existing newel
posts. Obviously(?) this precludes mortising the new rail into the
posts.

What's the best way of joining the new rail to the old posts?

David.

Had this work done by a local builder about 3 months ago. I didn't
watch carefully but AFAICT he morticed into the top newel post. He the
made sure that thebannister length was correct and then fitted the
bannister into the top post and then from below into the bottom post,
'adjusting' the tenon so that it could be forced in. It cannot be
lifted out and the spindled prevent itfrom being forced down

Malcolm
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