Housemartin wrote:

Sorry I don't think I made it totaly clear what I was doing.
This is an Oak kitchen work top joining two peices in an L section
(but probably not exactly 90deg as kitchen walls never are), I will
use worktop bolts underneath worktop will be supplied made up in
strips of Oak.

yep. That exactly what I have too.

Essentially cut them accurately, use a waterproof glue to gap fill, and
clamp like hell.

On 6 Feb, 12:50, The Natural Philosopher wrote:


Essentially cut them accurately, use a waterproof glue to gap fill, and
clamp like hell.

Yes, would you accomodate the 3mm chamfer, and if so cutting that
seperately with say a small tennon saw at 45 deg? So effectivley a
very shallow male and female joint?

Housemartin wrote:
On 6 Feb, 12:50, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Essentially cut them accurately, use a waterproof glue to gap fill, and
clamp like hell.

Yes, would you accomodate the 3mm chamfer, and if so cutting that
seperately with say a small tennon saw at 45 deg? So effectivley a
very shallow male and female joint?

Not easy. I think I might router off the chamfer for the length of the
joint and finish the corner with a tenon saw. Then again, I might just
live with the groove, which at least I know would be straight :-)

Thanks, I also have heard some people use silicon sealent in the join
rather than wood glue,what does the panel think about this?

Housemartin wrote:
On 6 Feb, 12:50, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Essentially cut them accurately, use a waterproof glue to gap fill, and
clamp like hell.

Yes, would you accomodate the 3mm chamfer, and if so cutting that
seperately with say a small tennon saw at 45 deg? So effectivley a
very shallow male and female joint?

Of..didn't know you had a chamfer..yes..inset one the chamfer width into
the other basically. An make a 45 dree end on with a saw.

I used a router if i remember right, and actually put the two bits
almost together, and clamped a guide on, and then ran the router between
them so as to get a perfect match.

Routes are te easiest way to get very straight, very perpendicular
cuts..rough saw first and then use the router as a plane..

Housemartin wrote:
Thanks, I also have heard some people use silicon sealent in the join
rather than wood glue,what does the panel think about this?

ugly and cant be sanded.

better to use epoxy.

This is going to be tricky, I reckon: I had the same issue a couple
of years ago and my solution was....I sourced a worktop with a square
edge and no chamfer (it also happened to be way cheaper!). I joined
that with biscuits and clamps which was great, although I wish I had
put (even) more biscuits in the join as the front inch or so has come
out of line since I fitted it.

The problem with routing off to recess the 'female' is the inevitable
curve at the front edge where the router stops: A 45 degree slice
would be better.