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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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100w Light Bulbs.
Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the
supermarkets and B&Q? Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-( Mark. |
#2
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100w Light Bulbs.
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#3
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100w Light Bulbs.
On 6 Jan, 11:03, wrote:
Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the supermarkets and B&Q? Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-( Mark. Do what everyone else is doing - replace them with multiple 50W downlighters, much better for the environment! A friend of mine has just had 20 of those put in her kitchen! T |
#4
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100w Light Bulbs.
wrote in message ... On 6 Jan, 11:03, wrote: Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the supermarkets and B&Q? Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-( Mark. Do what everyone else is doing - replace them with multiple 50W downlighters, much better for the environment! A friend of mine has just had 20 of those put in her kitchen! A kilowatt is better for the environment? |
#5
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100w Light Bulbs.
wrote in message ... Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the supermarkets and B&Q? Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-( You can still get them if you try. http://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/pro...100w-bc-pearl/ |
#6
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100w Light Bulbs.
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#7
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100w Light Bulbs.
Mike Clarke wrote:
wrote: Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs In which case you'd better stock up with lots of 60w bulbs at the same time before they get withdrawn as well :-( It aint that bad, OSRAM have started to do direct halogen replacements for GLS bulbs, Sainsburys sell them. They consist of a halogen capsule lamp inside a secondary bulb with a BC or ES cap. They take a little less power, 42W for the same output as a 60W. James |
#8
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100w Light Bulbs.
In article ,
James Salisbury nntp.dsl.pipex.com writes: It aint that bad, OSRAM have started to do direct halogen replacements for GLS bulbs, Sainsburys sell them. They consist of a halogen capsule lamp inside a secondary bulb with a BC or ES cap. They take a little less power, 42W for the same output as a 60W. They aren't the same light output (and don't claim to be). Neither do they meet the proposed EU requirements on efficiency to survive the EU ban. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
#9
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100w Light Bulbs.
"clumsy *******" wrote in message ... James Salisbury nntp.dsl.pipex.com wrote: It aint that bad, OSRAM have started to do direct halogen replacements for GLS bulbs, Sainsburys sell them. They consist of a halogen capsule lamp inside a secondary bulb with a BC or ES cap. They take a little less power, 42W for the same output as a 60W. I was worried by this whole thing but it seems there are halogens coming out to get round it all? Now, do you think there will be a halogen dimmable to replace my dimmed screw thread incandescent reflector spotlamps? I hope not. Dimming incandescent lamps waste even more energy. What you need is separately switched lamps so you can switch on as many as needed. If you frequently use a dimmer you have the wrong lamps. -- all thumbs |
#10
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100w Light Bulbs.
dennis@home wrote:
I was worried by this whole thing but it seems there are halogens coming out to get round it all? Now, do you think there will be a halogen dimmable to replace my dimmed screw thread incandescent reflector spotlamps? I hope not. Dimming incandescent lamps waste even more energy. Using a dimmer will reduce the energy consumption. It will however also reduce the efficiency of the lamps in terms of lumens per watt. Then again, so what? The purpose of dimmers is to control the lighting levels, not save energy. What you need is separately switched lamps so you can switch on as many as needed. If you frequently use a dimmer you have the wrong lamps. Depends on when and how you dim really. If you regularly run lots of high power lighting at a small fraction of its regular output, then you would be better off with a switchbank and/or smaller bulbs. If however what you want is the occasional ability to lower the lighting level, or just trim a small reduction in brightness in (plus a corresponding increase in lamp life) then they are just the ticket. They are also simpler to retrofit in most cases than banked switching. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#11
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100w Light Bulbs.
On Jan 6, 5:03*am, wrote:
Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the supermarkets and B&Q? Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-( Mark. Do what is smart, use 25w cfls. Why anyone still buys those energy wasting dinosours for lamps and most aplications is dumb. Did you know an incandesant bulb is actualy an electric heater putting out light you can see as a byproduct. Think of it this way, 92-96 % of the energy consumed is radiated as heat, only 4-8% is light you can see. And since you pay more for electricity per Btu its a looser, especialy in summer with the AC on. Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just from Cfls and T8s. Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights, and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality soft or warm white ones with a warranty. |
#12
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100w Light Bulbs.
On 6 Jan, 13:41, ransley wrote:
On Jan 6, 5:03*am, wrote: Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the supermarkets and B&Q? Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-( Mark. *Do what is smart, use 25w cfls. Why anyone still buys those energy wasting dinosours for lamps and most aplications is dumb. *Did you know an incandesant bulb is actualy an electric heater putting out light you can see as a byproduct. Think of it this way, 92-96 % of the energy consumed is radiated as heat, only 4-8% is light you can see. And since you pay more for electricity per Btu its a looser, especialy in summer with the AC on. *Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just from Cfls and T8s. *Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights, and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality soft or warm white ones with a warranty. In an office environment with multiple light sources I'm sure this isn't a problem - but in my home where I typically have only a single light in the middle of the ceiling the energy saving bulbs don't produce anywhere near the same about of light. Mark. |
#13
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100w Light Bulbs.
wrote in message ... On 6 Jan, 13:41, ransley wrote: On Jan 6, 5:03 am, wrote: Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the supermarkets and B&Q? Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-( Mark. Do what is smart, use 25w cfls. Why anyone still buys those energy wasting dinosours for lamps and most aplications is dumb. Did you know an incandesant bulb is actualy an electric heater putting out light you can see as a byproduct. Think of it this way, 92-96 % of the energy consumed is radiated as heat, only 4-8% is light you can see. And since you pay more for electricity per Btu its a looser, especialy in summer with the AC on. Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just from Cfls and T8s. Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights, and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality soft or warm white ones with a warranty. In an office environment with multiple light sources I'm sure this isn't a problem - but in my home where I typically have only a single light in the middle of the ceiling the energy saving bulbs don't produce anywhere near the same about of light. IMHO they are crap, I fitted 3 x 11W cfls, switched them on and whoa, impressive. A few weeks later, switch them on and struggle to find a chair in the darkness. After that, even when they're warmed-up they've lost boatloads of light compared to new ones. |
#14
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100w Light Bulbs.
In article ,
ransley wrote: Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just from Cfls and T8s. Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights, and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality soft or warm white ones with a warranty. Motion sensors? I've just replaced a fixed outdoor light with one of these: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TL3500A.html CFL. Instant start to full brightness. Works a treat. Very bright indeed. Gordon |
#15
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100w Light Bulbs.
Gordon Henderson wrote:
In article , ransley wrote: Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just from Cfls and T8s. Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights, and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality soft or warm white ones with a warranty. Motion sensors? I've just replaced a fixed outdoor light with one of these: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TL3500A.html CFL. Instant start to full brightness. Works a treat. Very bright indeed. "Brightness is equivalent to about 300W incandescent lamp." That's a lie, for a start. |
#16
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100w Light Bulbs.
In article ,
Bruce writes: Gordon Henderson wrote: I've just replaced a fixed outdoor light with one of these: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TL3500A.html CFL. Instant start to full brightness. Works a treat. Very bright indeed. "Brightness is equivalent to about 300W incandescent lamp." That's a lie, for a start. It's probably nearer to 100W linear halogen in that application. The large size of the light source and self-shadowing of the tube severely impact the overall efficiency in reflector applications like this, so you're probably looking at a 3:1 ratio. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
#18
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100w Light Bulbs.
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article , Bruce writes: Gordon Henderson wrote: I've just replaced a fixed outdoor light with one of these: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TL3500A.html CFL. Instant start to full brightness. Works a treat. Very bright indeed. "Brightness is equivalent to about 300W incandescent lamp." That's a lie, for a start. It's probably nearer to 100W linear halogen in that application. The large size of the light source and self-shadowing of the tube severely impact the overall efficiency in reflector applications like this, so you're probably looking at a 3:1 ratio. Thats not the only pork pie. Note the tubes have 2 prongs at each end, not one, so theyre filament ended. No-one has ever managed to get 6000hr lamp life out of a filament ended fluorescent tube when using them with on times of 2 minutes. 6000hrs if you run them for 3 hrs each time, sure. Filament ended lamps are usually good for around 1000 starts, and 2000 minutes is about 33 hours. Pork pie factor: about 200! NT |
#19
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100w Light Bulbs.
In article ,
Bruce wrote: Gordon Henderson wrote: In article , ransley wrote: Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just from Cfls and T8s. Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights, and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality soft or warm white ones with a warranty. Motion sensors? I've just replaced a fixed outdoor light with one of these: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TL3500A.html CFL. Instant start to full brightness. Works a treat. Very bright indeed. "Brightness is equivalent to about 300W incandescent lamp." That's a lie, for a start. Maybe, but I don't actually care. It does what I need it do do which is light up a very dark area outside my house. The only thing I have to compare it with is my father in law who has some 250W halogen lights in the same (or what looks like the same) enclosure. This appears brighter, but I know that's hardly a scientific test, nor do I care. What I do know is that my unit runs at 35W, his 250W and it seems as light, if not more so to me. But from my point of view - it's an outside light, PIR activated, timer, constant-on facility, very bright, puts less money in the pockets of the greedy power company shareholders. Job done Gordon |
#20
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100w Light Bulbs.
Gordon Henderson wrote:
In article , Bruce wrote: "Brightness is equivalent to about 300W incandescent lamp." That's a lie, for a start. Maybe, but I don't actually care. It's your call. |
#21
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100w Light Bulbs.
On Jan 6, 8:55*am, Gordon Henderson wrote:
In article , ransley wrote: Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just from Cfls and T8s. *Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights, and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality soft or warm white ones with a warranty. Motion sensors? I've just replaced a fixed outdoor light with one of these: *http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TL3500A.html CFL. Instant start to full brightness. Works a treat. Very bright indeed. Gordon New ones are better but here in the US we get a bit colder than you lucky folks, down to -20 farenhite thats -30 c, at that temp it takes about 15 minutes to get the flood type bright and 5 minutes for cfl type. |
#22
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100w Light Bulbs.
On Fri, 09 Jan 2009 06:23:05 -0800, ransley wrote:
CFL. Instant start to full brightness. Works a treat. Very bright indeed. New ones are better but here in the US we get a bit colder than you lucky folks, down to -20 farenhite thats -30 c, at that temp it takes about 15 minutes to get the flood type bright and 5 minutes for cfl type. Bit colder still in my part of the US, and CFLs plain don't work outdoors in the winter. Thankfully there still seems to be a plentiful supply of incandescents here. (I also looked at some special low-temp tube fluorescents the other week for our garage, but even they were only rated down to -20F). We've got some big halogens in the outdoor security lights though, and haven't had any problems with those. Some low-voltage halogens for the out-buildings might be the way to go... -- "What progress. It's almost as good as taping it... on tapes which self destruct in seven days." - Bill Bailey on the BBC's "watch again" service |
#23
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100w Light Bulbs.
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 05:41:15 -0800 (PST), ransley
wrote: On Jan 6, 5:03*am, wrote: Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the supermarkets and B&Q? Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-( Mark. Do what is smart, use 25w cfls. Why anyone still buys those energy wasting dinosours for lamps and most aplications is dumb. Did you know an incandesant bulb is actualy an electric heater putting out light you can see as a byproduct. Think of it this way, 92-96 % of the energy consumed is radiated as heat, only 4-8% is light you can see. And since you pay more for electricity per Btu its a looser, especialy in summer with the AC on. Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just from Cfls and T8s. Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights, and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality soft or warm white ones with a warranty. Swan's invention. Edison pinched the idea from him |
#24
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100w Light Bulbs.
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#25
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100w Light Bulbs.
"jal" wrote in message ... In article , wrote: Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the supermarkets and B&Q? Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-( Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten. "Everyone's a winner." (yeah yeah) Tesco have a fantastic range. (Fantastic as in "bewildering" -- but you're sure to find a bog standard bayonet 100W equivalent.) Although a firm supporter of CLFs I do think that they are usually over-optimistic in their 18w = 100w ratings). I'd go for at least 22w to replace a 100w bulb and would go for 25W if available. I used to reckon that each one saved about £60 in electricity costs over its lifetime, but that's probably quite a bit more by now. I accept that there may be some local heating benefit, but since nobody else puts electric heaters close to the ceiling it's fair to say that if you need that heat, that proportion (75%) of the electrical bill that would be better spent on a heating system. |
#26
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100w Light Bulbs.
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 13:59:51 UTC, jal wrote:
Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten. You're having a laugh. -- The information contained in this post is copyright the poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by http://www.diybanter.com |
#27
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100w Light Bulbs.
Bob Eager wrote:
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 13:59:51 UTC, jal wrote: Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten. You're having a laugh. The manufacturers got me with that con too. 20W energy saving bulbs are crap - at least in terms of amount and "quality" of light. I've also had such bulbs fail after a few weeks, they are also temperamental in my cold garage and workshop. Not impressed. So I've stocked up on 100 watt incandescent bulbs and have enough to last for several years, or until the manufacturers turn out a decent alternative at a reasonable price. -- David in Normandy. To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the subject line, or it will be automatically deleted by a filter and not reach my inbox. |
#28
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100w Light Bulbs.
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 18:19:54 UTC, David in Normandy
wrote: Bob Eager wrote: On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 13:59:51 UTC, jal wrote: Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten. You're having a laugh. The manufacturers got me with that con too. 20W energy saving bulbs are crap - at least in terms of amount and "quality" of light. I've also had such bulbs fail after a few weeks, they are also temperamental in my cold garage and workshop. Not impressed. So I've stocked up on 100 watt incandescent bulbs and have enough to last for several years, or until the manufacturers turn out a decent alternative at a reasonable price. So have I. -- The information contained in this post is copyright the poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by http://www.diybanter.com |
#29
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100w Light Bulbs.
On 6 Jan, 19:25, "Bob Eager" wrote:
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 18:19:54 UTC, David in Normandy wrote: Bob Eager wrote: On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 13:59:51 UTC, jal wrote: Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten. You're having a laugh. The manufacturers got me with that con too. 20W energy saving bulbs are crap - at least in terms of amount and "quality" of light. I've also had such bulbs fail after a few weeks, they are also temperamental in my cold garage and workshop. Not impressed. So I've stocked up on 100 watt incandescent bulbs and have enough to last for several years, or until the manufacturers turn out a decent alternative at a reasonable price. So have I. -- The information contained in this post is copyright the poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by http://www.diybanter.com Anyone know where you can still get 100W bulbs in the shops? I could order some on the net, but its a bit of a pain. I won't have chance to look around locally until Saturday. Somehow this 100W business escaped my attention. But I'll start stockpiling 60W bulbs, getting a few each time I go to the supermarket ! Simon. |
#30
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100w Light Bulbs.
"David in Normandy" wrote in message ... Bob Eager wrote: On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 13:59:51 UTC, jal wrote: Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten. You're having a laugh. The manufacturers got me with that con too. 20W energy saving bulbs are crap - at least in terms of amount and "quality" of light. I've also had such bulbs fail after a few weeks, they are also temperamental in my cold garage and workshop. Not impressed. So I've stocked up on 100 watt incandescent bulbs and have enough to last for several years, or until the manufacturers turn out a decent alternative at a reasonable price. There already is.. 5ft tubes. |
#31
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100w Light Bulbs.
dennis@home wrote:
The manufacturers got me with that con too. 20W energy saving bulbs are crap - at least in terms of amount and "quality" of light. I've also had such bulbs fail after a few weeks, they are also temperamental in my cold garage and workshop. Not impressed. So I've stocked up on 100 watt incandescent bulbs and have enough to last for several years, or until the manufacturers turn out a decent alternative at a reasonable price. There already is.. 5ft tubes. Granted, for garage and workshop, I wouldn't want any inside my home though. -- David in Normandy. To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the subject line, or it will be automatically deleted by a filter and not reach my inbox. |
#32
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100w Light Bulbs.
David in Normandy wrote:
So I've stocked up on 100 watt incandescent bulbs and have enough to last for several years I've been meaning to do that for a while, and hearing about shops running down stock has goaded me into actually doing something about it. How much do you think is "enough for several years"? I've surveyed the bulb numbers and types that I want to keep incandescent for the forseeable, now I want to multiply that by some number of "expected replacements". Essentially, for each installed bulb, how many "backups" do I need? I don't have vastly more or less of one particular type than any other, so no need to apply "diversity" type thinking. Anyone have a finger-in-the-air estimate of how many replacements I should bank on? I'm not trying to last out till I die, only till something better than current CFLs comes along. Cheers, Pete |
#33
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100w Light Bulbs.
On Wed, 07 Jan 2009 09:25:26 +0000, Pete Verdon
d wrote: Anyone have a finger-in-the-air estimate of how many replacements I should bank on? I'm not trying to last out till I die, only till something better than current CFLs comes along. Unless you are a babe in arms you'd be better off with the stockpile -- |
#34
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100w Light Bulbs.
"jal" wrote in message ... In article , wrote: Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the supermarkets and B&Q? Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-( Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten. "Everyone's a winner." (yeah yeah) Because: 1) 20 W CFL does not replace a 100W 2) 20 W CFL's at a sensible price are hard to find. 3) CFL's have a very long "start up" time. If I want a bright bulb in a room the chances are that I want it to come on instantly! 4) CFL's fade over time. Aa 100W equivalent when new, is a 60W equivalent after 18 months tim |
#35
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100w Light Bulbs.
"tim....." wrote:
2) 20 W CFL's at a sensible price are hard to find. GE from ASDA or Tesco. Very cheap, £1.03 to £1.43. |
#36
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100w Light Bulbs.
"Bruce" wrote in message ... "tim....." wrote: 2) 20 W CFL's at a sensible price are hard to find. GE from ASDA or Tesco. Very cheap, £1.03 to £1.43. All they had in my Tesco today was @ 2.49. I could buy an "economy" 11 W for 35p. They didn't have any 100W normal bulbs, neither did the (local) cheepie store, nor did Wilkinsons. Dyas only had screw fittings (I actually have one lamp that takes these so I bought 5 years supply, i.e 2), ditto Wicks. So, unless I going to risk a round trip 8 mile bike ride to B&Q (with no guarantee of success), looks like I am stuffed. tim |
#37
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100w Light Bulbs.
On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 17:41:03 -0000, "tim....."
wrote: "Bruce" wrote in message .. . "tim....." wrote: 2) 20 W CFL's at a sensible price are hard to find. GE from ASDA or Tesco. Very cheap, £1.03 to £1.43. All they had in my Tesco today was @ 2.49. I could buy an "economy" 11 W for 35p. They didn't have any 100W normal bulbs, neither did the (local) cheepie store, nor did Wilkinsons. Dyas only had screw fittings (I actually have one lamp that takes these so I bought 5 years supply, i.e 2), ditto Wicks. So, unless I going to risk a round trip 8 mile bike ride to B&Q (with no guarantee of success), looks like I am stuffed. I had a glance at the tungsten bulbs in a B&Q Warehouse today. There were dozens of people looking around for 100W ones - unsuccessfully. In fact they, at least here, haven't had any for months. I bought a few 60W ones for my stockpile. -- Frank Erskine |
#38
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100w Light Bulbs.
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 23:31:10 +0000, tim..... wrote:
3) CFL's have a very long "start up" time. If I want a bright bulb in a room the chances are that I want it to come on instantly! Well, they use less energy to run than incandescents, so why not simply leave them on all the time? 4) CFL's fade over time. Aa 100W equivalent when new, is a 60W equivalent after 18 months Wear sunglasses in the house of ever-increasing transparency as time goes on, thus maintaining an apparent constant level of brightness. (it's been that sort of day today ;-) |
#39
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100w Light Bulbs.
In article ,
"tim....." writes: "jal" wrote in message ... Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten. "Everyone's a winner." (yeah yeah) Because: 1) 20 W CFL does not replace a 100W Indeed -- you need nearer a 25W one as frequently mentioned here. 2) 20 W CFL's at a sensible price are hard to find. Keep an eye out, and buy some stock when you see them. Costco had some Feit ones which I'm very impressed with. Fortunately I bought another 3 packs after trying some, as they've since run out of the BC ones. (Presumably other people found them very good too.) 3) CFL's have a very long "start up" time. If I want a bright bulb in a room the chances are that I want it to come on instantly! There's only one room where that's the case for me. In all other rooms, the warm up time is not a problem, and in a few cases it's a positive advantage. Note that warm up applies to all fluorescent lamps, not just CFLs. 4) CFL's fade over time. Aa 100W equivalent when new, is a 60W equivalent after 18 months Filament lamps fade over time too. A 100W lamp will have lost 20% of its output at normal end of life. One trouble with CFLs is they often don't die at end of lifetime, and people are too used to running lamps until they die. They then complain that they're dim, when they're well past their rated lifetime, and should have been replaced. You might think about marking them with a "use by" date when you fit them, based on rated lifetime and expected frequency of use. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
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100w Light Bulbs.
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message ... In article , "tim....." writes: "jal" wrote in message ... Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten. "Everyone's a winner." (yeah yeah) Because: 1) 20 W CFL does not replace a 100W Indeed -- you need nearer a 25W one as frequently mentioned here. 2) 20 W CFL's at a sensible price are hard to find. Keep an eye out, and buy some stock when you see them. Costco had some Feit ones which I'm very impressed with. Fortunately I bought another 3 packs after trying some, as they've since run out of the BC ones. (Presumably other people found them very good too.) 3) CFL's have a very long "start up" time. If I want a bright bulb in a room the chances are that I want it to come on instantly! There's only one room where that's the case for me. In all other rooms, the warm up time is not a problem, and in a few cases it's a positive advantage. Note that warm up applies to all fluorescent lamps, not just CFLs. 4) CFL's fade over time. Aa 100W equivalent when new, is a 60W equivalent after 18 months Filament lamps fade over time too. A 100W lamp will have lost 20% of its output at normal end of life. One trouble with CFLs is they often don't die at end of lifetime, and people are too used to running lamps until they die. I have no problem with throwing away a 20p light bulb early. I do have a problem with throwing away a GBP 6.49 (which is what the higher rated ones in Wicks were costing today) light bulb early tim |
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