Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the
supermarkets and B&Q?
Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my
light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-(

Mark.

wrote:

Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the
supermarkets and B&Q?
Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my
light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-(


I heard something about it on TV news yesterday along the lines of "From
1 January 2009, retailers will no longer be replenishing their stocks of
100W tungsten bulbs".

To put it another way, "When they're gone, they're gone!"

On 6 Jan, 11:03, wrote:
Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the
supermarkets and B&Q?
Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my
light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-(

Mark.

Do what everyone else is doing - replace them with multiple 50W
downlighters, much better for the environment!

A friend of mine has just had 20 of those put in her kitchen!

T

wrote in message
...
On 6 Jan, 11:03, wrote:
Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the
supermarkets and B&Q?
Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my
light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-(

Mark.

Do what everyone else is doing - replace them with multiple 50W
downlighters, much better for the environment!

A friend of mine has just had 20 of those put in her kitchen!

A kilowatt is better for the environment?

wrote in message
...
Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the
supermarkets and B&Q?
Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my
light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-(


You can still get them if you try.

http://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/pro...100w-bc-pearl/

wrote:

Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my
light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs

In which case you'd better stock up with lots of 60w bulbs at the same time
before they get withdrawn as well :-(

--
Mike Clarke

Mike Clarke wrote:
wrote:

Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my
light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs

In which case you'd better stock up with lots of 60w bulbs at the same time
before they get withdrawn as well :-(

It aint that bad, OSRAM have started to do direct halogen replacements
for GLS bulbs, Sainsburys sell them. They consist of a halogen capsule
lamp inside a secondary bulb with a BC or ES cap. They take a little
less power, 42W for the same output as a 60W.

James

In article ,
James Salisbury nntp.dsl.pipex.com writes:
It aint that bad, OSRAM have started to do direct halogen replacements
for GLS bulbs, Sainsburys sell them. They consist of a halogen capsule
lamp inside a secondary bulb with a BC or ES cap. They take a little
less power, 42W for the same output as a 60W.

They aren't the same light output (and don't claim to be).
Neither do they meet the proposed EU requirements on efficiency
to survive the EU ban.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

"clumsy *******" wrote in message
...
James Salisbury nntp.dsl.pipex.com wrote:

It aint that bad, OSRAM have started to do direct halogen replacements
for GLS bulbs, Sainsburys sell them. They consist of a halogen capsule
lamp inside a secondary bulb with a BC or ES cap. They take a little
less power, 42W for the same output as a 60W.

I was worried by this whole thing but it seems there are halogens
coming out to get round it all? Now, do you think there will be a
halogen dimmable to replace my dimmed screw thread incandescent
reflector spotlamps?

I hope not.
Dimming incandescent lamps waste even more energy.
What you need is separately switched lamps so you can switch on as many as
needed.
If you frequently use a dimmer you have the wrong lamps.
--
all thumbs

dennis@home wrote:

I was worried by this whole thing but it seems there are halogens
coming out to get round it all? Now, do you think there will be a
halogen dimmable to replace my dimmed screw thread incandescent
reflector spotlamps?

I hope not.
Dimming incandescent lamps waste even more energy.

Using a dimmer will reduce the energy consumption. It will however also
reduce the efficiency of the lamps in terms of lumens per watt. Then
again, so what? The purpose of dimmers is to control the lighting
levels, not save energy.

What you need is separately switched lamps so you can switch on as many
as needed.
If you frequently use a dimmer you have the wrong lamps.

Depends on when and how you dim really. If you regularly run lots of
high power lighting at a small fraction of its regular output, then you
would be better off with a switchbank and/or smaller bulbs. If however
what you want is the occasional ability to lower the lighting level, or
just trim a small reduction in brightness in (plus a corresponding
increase in lamp life) then they are just the ticket. They are also
simpler to retrofit in most cases than banked switching.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Jan 6, 5:03*am, wrote:
Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the
supermarkets and B&Q?
Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my
light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-(

Mark.

Do what is smart, use 25w cfls. Why anyone still buys those energy
wasting dinosours for lamps and most aplications is dumb.

Did you know an incandesant bulb is actualy an electric heater
putting out light you can see as a byproduct. Think of it this way,
92-96 % of the energy consumed is radiated as heat, only 4-8% is light
you can see. And since you pay more for electricity per Btu its a
looser, especialy in summer with the AC on.

Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just
from Cfls and T8s. Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights,
and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality
soft or warm white ones with a warranty.

On 6 Jan, 13:41, ransley wrote:
On Jan 6, 5:03*am, wrote:

Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the
supermarkets and B&Q?
Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my
light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-(

Mark.

*Do what is smart, use 25w cfls. Why anyone still buys those energy
wasting dinosours for lamps and most aplications is dumb.

*Did you know an incandesant bulb is actualy an electric heater
putting out light you can see as a byproduct. Think of it this way,
92-96 % of the energy consumed is radiated as heat, only 4-8% is light
you can see. And since you pay more for electricity per Btu its a
looser, especialy in summer with the AC on.

*Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just
from Cfls and T8s. *Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights,
and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality
soft or warm white ones with a warranty.

In an office environment with multiple light sources I'm sure this
isn't a problem - but in my home where I typically have only a single
light in the middle of the ceiling the energy saving bulbs don't
produce anywhere near the same about of light.

Mark.

wrote in message
...
On 6 Jan, 13:41, ransley wrote:
On Jan 6, 5:03 am, wrote:

Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the
supermarkets and B&Q?
Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my
light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-(

Mark.

Do what is smart, use 25w cfls. Why anyone still buys those energy
wasting dinosours for lamps and most aplications is dumb.

Did you know an incandesant bulb is actualy an electric heater
putting out light you can see as a byproduct. Think of it this way,
92-96 % of the energy consumed is radiated as heat, only 4-8% is light
you can see. And since you pay more for electricity per Btu its a
looser, especialy in summer with the AC on.

Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just
from Cfls and T8s. Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights,
and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality
soft or warm white ones with a warranty.

In an office environment with multiple light sources I'm sure this
isn't a problem - but in my home where I typically have only a single
light in the middle of the ceiling the energy saving bulbs don't
produce anywhere near the same about of light.

IMHO they are crap, I fitted 3 x 11W cfls, switched them on and whoa,
impressive.
A few weeks later, switch them on and struggle to find a chair in the
darkness.
After that, even when they're warmed-up they've lost boatloads of light
compared to new ones.

In article ,
ransley wrote:

Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just
from Cfls and T8s. Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights,
and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality
soft or warm white ones with a warranty.

Motion sensors?

I've just replaced a fixed outdoor light with one of these:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TL3500A.html

CFL. Instant start to full brightness. Works a treat. Very bright indeed.

Gordon

Gordon Henderson wrote:
In article ,
ransley wrote:

Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just
from Cfls and T8s. Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights,
and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality
soft or warm white ones with a warranty.

Motion sensors?

I've just replaced a fixed outdoor light with one of these:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TL3500A.html

CFL. Instant start to full brightness. Works a treat. Very bright indeed.


"Brightness is equivalent to about 300W incandescent lamp."

That's a lie, for a start.

In article ,
Bruce writes:
Gordon Henderson wrote:

I've just replaced a fixed outdoor light with one of these:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TL3500A.html

CFL. Instant start to full brightness. Works a treat. Very bright indeed.

"Brightness is equivalent to about 300W incandescent lamp."

That's a lie, for a start.

It's probably nearer to 100W linear halogen in that application.
The large size of the light source and self-shadowing of the tube
severely impact the overall efficiency in reflector applications
like this, so you're probably looking at a 3:1 ratio.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
In article ,
Bruce writes:
Gordon Henderson wrote:

I've just replaced a fixed outdoor light with one of these:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TL3500A.html

CFL. Instant start to full brightness. Works a treat. Very bright indeed.

"Brightness is equivalent to about 300W incandescent lamp."

That's a lie, for a start.

It's probably nearer to 100W linear halogen in that application.
The large size of the light source and self-shadowing of the tube
severely impact the overall efficiency in reflector applications
like this, so you're probably looking at a 3:1 ratio.


That's more like it.

I might even have been slightly more generous,
and allowed a claim of 4:1. But 8.3:1 ?

(300/36)

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Bruce writes:
Gordon Henderson wrote:

I've just replaced a fixed outdoor light with one of these:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TL3500A.html

CFL. Instant start to full brightness. Works a treat. Very bright indeed.

"Brightness is equivalent to about 300W incandescent lamp."

That's a lie, for a start.

It's probably nearer to 100W linear halogen in that application.
The large size of the light source and self-shadowing of the tube
severely impact the overall efficiency in reflector applications
like this, so you're probably looking at a 3:1 ratio.


Thats not the only pork pie. Note the tubes have 2 prongs at each end,
not one, so theyre filament ended. No-one has ever managed to get
6000hr lamp life out of a filament ended fluorescent tube when using
them with on times of 2 minutes. 6000hrs if you run them for 3 hrs
each time, sure. Filament ended lamps are usually good for around 1000
starts, and 2000 minutes is about 33 hours. Pork pie factor: about
200!


NT

In article ,
Bruce wrote:
Gordon Henderson wrote:
In article ,
ransley wrote:

Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just
from Cfls and T8s. Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights,
and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality
soft or warm white ones with a warranty.

Motion sensors?

I've just replaced a fixed outdoor light with one of these:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TL3500A.html

CFL. Instant start to full brightness. Works a treat. Very bright indeed.


"Brightness is equivalent to about 300W incandescent lamp."

That's a lie, for a start.

Maybe, but I don't actually care. It does what I need it do do which is
light up a very dark area outside my house.

The only thing I have to compare it with is my father in law who has
some 250W halogen lights in the same (or what looks like the same)
enclosure. This appears brighter, but I know that's hardly a scientific
test, nor do I care. What I do know is that my unit runs at 35W, his
250W and it seems as light, if not more so to me.

But from my point of view - it's an outside light, PIR activated, timer,
constant-on facility, very bright, puts less money in the pockets of
the greedy power company shareholders. Job done

Gordon

Gordon Henderson wrote:
In article ,
Bruce wrote:

"Brightness is equivalent to about 300W incandescent lamp."

That's a lie, for a start.

Maybe, but I don't actually care.


It's your call.

On Jan 6, 8:55*am, Gordon Henderson wrote:
In article ,

ransley wrote:
Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just
from Cfls and T8s. *Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights,
and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality
soft or warm white ones with a warranty.

Motion sensors?

I've just replaced a fixed outdoor light with one of these:

*http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TL3500A.html

CFL. Instant start to full brightness. Works a treat. Very bright indeed.

Gordon

New ones are better but here in the US we get a bit colder than you
lucky folks, down to -20 farenhite thats -30 c, at that temp it takes
about 15 minutes to get the flood type bright and 5 minutes for cfl
type.

On Fri, 09 Jan 2009 06:23:05 -0800, ransley wrote:
CFL. Instant start to full brightness. Works a treat. Very bright indeed.

New ones are better but here in the US we get a bit colder than you
lucky folks, down to -20 farenhite thats -30 c, at that temp it takes
about 15 minutes to get the flood type bright and 5 minutes for cfl
type.

Bit colder still in my part of the US, and CFLs plain don't work outdoors
in the winter. Thankfully there still seems to be a plentiful supply of
incandescents here. (I also looked at some special low-temp tube
fluorescents the other week for our garage, but even they were only rated
down to -20F). We've got some big halogens in the outdoor security lights
though, and haven't had any problems with those. Some low-voltage halogens
for the out-buildings might be the way to go...




--
"What progress. It's almost as good as taping it... on tapes which self destruct in seven days."

- Bill Bailey on the BBC's "watch again" service

On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 05:41:15 -0800 (PST), ransley
wrote:

On Jan 6, 5:03*am, wrote:
Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the
supermarkets and B&Q?
Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my
light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-(

Mark.

Do what is smart, use 25w cfls. Why anyone still buys those energy
wasting dinosours for lamps and most aplications is dumb.

Did you know an incandesant bulb is actualy an electric heater
putting out light you can see as a byproduct. Think of it this way,
92-96 % of the energy consumed is radiated as heat, only 4-8% is light
you can see. And since you pay more for electricity per Btu its a
looser, especialy in summer with the AC on.

Every building I run I have cut electric consumption by 50%, just
from Cfls and T8s. Sure for down lights, motion sensors, work lights,
and a few aplications Edisons old invention is better. Buy quality
soft or warm white ones with a warranty.


Swan's invention.
Edison pinched the idea from him

In article
,
wrote:

Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the
supermarkets and B&Q?
Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my
light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-(

Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy
saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten.
"Everyone's a winner." (yeah yeah)

Tesco have a fantastic range. (Fantastic as in "bewildering" -- but
you're sure to find a bog standard bayonet 100W equivalent.)

john

"jal" wrote in message
...
In article
,
wrote:

Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the
supermarkets and B&Q?
Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my
light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-(

Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy
saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten.
"Everyone's a winner." (yeah yeah)

Tesco have a fantastic range. (Fantastic as in "bewildering" -- but
you're sure to find a bog standard bayonet 100W equivalent.)


Although a firm supporter of CLFs I do think that they are usually
over-optimistic in their 18w = 100w ratings). I'd go for at least 22w to
replace a 100w bulb and would go for 25W if available.

I used to reckon that each one saved about £60 in electricity costs over its
lifetime, but that's probably quite a bit more by now. I accept that there
may be some local heating benefit, but since nobody else puts electric
heaters close to the ceiling it's fair to say that if you need that heat,
that proportion (75%) of the electrical bill that would be better spent on a
heating system.

On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 13:59:51 UTC, jal wrote:

Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy
saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten.

You're having a laugh.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

Bob Eager wrote:
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 13:59:51 UTC, jal wrote:

Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy
saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten.

You're having a laugh.


The manufacturers got me with that con too. 20W energy saving bulbs are
crap - at least in terms of amount and "quality" of light. I've also had
such bulbs fail after a few weeks, they are also temperamental in my
cold garage and workshop. Not impressed. So I've stocked up on 100 watt
incandescent bulbs and have enough to last for several years, or until
the manufacturers turn out a decent alternative at a reasonable price.

--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted
by a filter and not reach my inbox.

On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 18:19:54 UTC, David in Normandy
wrote:

Bob Eager wrote:
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 13:59:51 UTC, jal wrote:

Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy
saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten.

You're having a laugh.


The manufacturers got me with that con too. 20W energy saving bulbs are
crap - at least in terms of amount and "quality" of light. I've also had
such bulbs fail after a few weeks, they are also temperamental in my
cold garage and workshop. Not impressed. So I've stocked up on 100 watt
incandescent bulbs and have enough to last for several years, or until
the manufacturers turn out a decent alternative at a reasonable price.

So have I.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

On 6 Jan, 19:25, "Bob Eager" wrote:
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 18:19:54 UTC, David in Normandy



wrote:
Bob Eager wrote:
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 13:59:51 UTC, jal wrote:

Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy
saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten.

You're having a laugh.

The manufacturers got me with that con too. 20W energy saving bulbs are
crap - at least in terms of amount and "quality" of light. I've also had
such bulbs fail after a few weeks, they are also temperamental in my
cold garage and workshop. Not impressed. So I've stocked up on 100 watt
incandescent bulbs and have enough to last for several years, or until
the manufacturers turn out a decent alternative at a reasonable price.

So have I.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

Anyone know where you can still get 100W bulbs in the shops? I could
order some on the net,
but its a bit of a pain. I won't have chance to look around locally
until Saturday.
Somehow this 100W business escaped my attention. But I'll start
stockpiling
60W bulbs, getting a few each time I go to the supermarket !
Simon.

"David in Normandy" wrote in message
...
Bob Eager wrote:
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 13:59:51 UTC, jal wrote:

Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy
saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten.

You're having a laugh.


The manufacturers got me with that con too. 20W energy saving bulbs are
crap - at least in terms of amount and "quality" of light. I've also had
such bulbs fail after a few weeks, they are also temperamental in my cold
garage and workshop. Not impressed. So I've stocked up on 100 watt
incandescent bulbs and have enough to last for several years, or until the
manufacturers turn out a decent alternative at a reasonable price.

There already is.. 5ft tubes.

dennis@home wrote:

The manufacturers got me with that con too. 20W energy saving bulbs
are crap - at least in terms of amount and "quality" of light. I've
also had such bulbs fail after a few weeks, they are also
temperamental in my cold garage and workshop. Not impressed. So I've
stocked up on 100 watt incandescent bulbs and have enough to last for
several years, or until the manufacturers turn out a decent
alternative at a reasonable price.

There already is.. 5ft tubes.

Granted, for garage and workshop, I wouldn't want any inside my home though.
--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted
by a filter and not reach my inbox.

David in Normandy wrote:
So I've stocked up on 100 watt incandescent bulbs and have enough to
last for several years

I've been meaning to do that for a while, and hearing about shops
running down stock has goaded me into actually doing something about it.

How much do you think is "enough for several years"? I've surveyed the
bulb numbers and types that I want to keep incandescent for the
forseeable, now I want to multiply that by some number of "expected
replacements". Essentially, for each installed bulb, how many "backups"
do I need? I don't have vastly more or less of one particular type than
any other, so no need to apply "diversity" type thinking.

Anyone have a finger-in-the-air estimate of how many replacements I
should bank on? I'm not trying to last out till I die, only till
something better than current CFLs comes along.

Cheers,

Pete

On Wed, 07 Jan 2009 09:25:26 +0000, Pete Verdon
d wrote:

Anyone have a finger-in-the-air estimate of how many replacements I
should bank on? I'm not trying to last out till I die, only till
something better than current CFLs comes along.

Unless you are a babe in arms you'd be better off with the stockpile


--

"jal" wrote in message
...
In article
,
wrote:

Has anyone else noticed the disapperance of 100w light bulbs from the
supermarkets and B&Q?
Aparrently for environmental reasons - but now I need to replace my
light fittings with ones that will take multiple 60w bulbs :-(

Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy
saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten.
"Everyone's a winner." (yeah yeah)

Because:

1) 20 W CFL does not replace a 100W
2) 20 W CFL's at a sensible price are hard to find.
3) CFL's have a very long "start up" time. If I want a bright bulb in a
room the chances are that I want it to come on instantly!
4) CFL's fade over time. Aa 100W equivalent when new, is a 60W equivalent
after 18 months

tim

"tim....." wrote:

2) 20 W CFL's at a sensible price are hard to find.


GE from ASDA or Tesco.

Very cheap, £1.03 to £1.43.

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
"tim....." wrote:

2) 20 W CFL's at a sensible price are hard to find.


GE from ASDA or Tesco.

Very cheap, £1.03 to £1.43.

All they had in my Tesco today was @ 2.49.

I could buy an "economy" 11 W for 35p.

They didn't have any 100W normal bulbs, neither did the (local) cheepie
store, nor did Wilkinsons. Dyas only had screw fittings (I actually have one
lamp that takes these so I bought 5 years supply, i.e 2), ditto Wicks.

So, unless I going to risk a round trip 8 mile bike ride to B&Q (with no
guarantee of success), looks like I am stuffed.

tim

On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 17:41:03 -0000, "tim....."
wrote:


"Bruce" wrote in message
.. .
"tim....." wrote:

2) 20 W CFL's at a sensible price are hard to find.


GE from ASDA or Tesco.

Very cheap, £1.03 to £1.43.

All they had in my Tesco today was @ 2.49.

I could buy an "economy" 11 W for 35p.

They didn't have any 100W normal bulbs, neither did the (local) cheepie
store, nor did Wilkinsons. Dyas only had screw fittings (I actually have one
lamp that takes these so I bought 5 years supply, i.e 2), ditto Wicks.

So, unless I going to risk a round trip 8 mile bike ride to B&Q (with no
guarantee of success), looks like I am stuffed.

I had a glance at the tungsten bulbs in a B&Q Warehouse today. There
were dozens of people looking around for 100W ones - unsuccessfully.

In fact they, at least here, haven't had any for months.

I bought a few 60W ones for my stockpile.

--
Frank Erskine

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 23:31:10 +0000, tim..... wrote:
3) CFL's have a very long "start up" time. If I want a bright bulb in a
room the chances are that I want it to come on instantly!

Well, they use less energy to run than incandescents, so why not
simply leave them on all the time?

4) CFL's fade over time. Aa 100W equivalent when new, is a 60W
equivalent after 18 months

Wear sunglasses in the house of ever-increasing transparency as time goes
on, thus maintaining an apparent constant level of brightness.

(it's been that sort of day today ;-)

In article ,
"tim....." writes:

"jal" wrote in message
...

Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy
saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten.
"Everyone's a winner." (yeah yeah)

Because:

1) 20 W CFL does not replace a 100W

Indeed -- you need nearer a 25W one as frequently mentioned here.

2) 20 W CFL's at a sensible price are hard to find.

Keep an eye out, and buy some stock when you see them.
Costco had some Feit ones which I'm very impressed with.
Fortunately I bought another 3 packs after trying some,
as they've since run out of the BC ones. (Presumably
other people found them very good too.)

3) CFL's have a very long "start up" time. If I want a bright bulb in a
room the chances are that I want it to come on instantly!

There's only one room where that's the case for me.
In all other rooms, the warm up time is not a problem,
and in a few cases it's a positive advantage. Note
that warm up applies to all fluorescent lamps, not just
CFLs.

4) CFL's fade over time. Aa 100W equivalent when new, is a 60W equivalent
after 18 months

Filament lamps fade over time too. A 100W lamp will have lost
20% of its output at normal end of life.

One trouble with CFLs is they often don't die at end of lifetime,
and people are too used to running lamps until they die. They then
complain that they're dim, when they're well past their rated
lifetime, and should have been replaced. You might think about
marking them with a "use by" date when you fit them, based on
rated lifetime and expected frequency of use.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"tim....." writes:

"jal" wrote in message
...

Am I missing something? Why don't you just replace them with "energy
saving" equivalents -- I think it's 20W to replace 100W tungsten.
"Everyone's a winner." (yeah yeah)

Because:

1) 20 W CFL does not replace a 100W

Indeed -- you need nearer a 25W one as frequently mentioned here.

2) 20 W CFL's at a sensible price are hard to find.

Keep an eye out, and buy some stock when you see them.
Costco had some Feit ones which I'm very impressed with.
Fortunately I bought another 3 packs after trying some,
as they've since run out of the BC ones. (Presumably
other people found them very good too.)

3) CFL's have a very long "start up" time. If I want a bright bulb in a
room the chances are that I want it to come on instantly!

There's only one room where that's the case for me.
In all other rooms, the warm up time is not a problem,
and in a few cases it's a positive advantage. Note
that warm up applies to all fluorescent lamps, not just
CFLs.

4) CFL's fade over time. Aa 100W equivalent when new, is a 60W
equivalent
after 18 months

Filament lamps fade over time too. A 100W lamp will have lost
20% of its output at normal end of life.

One trouble with CFLs is they often don't die at end of lifetime,
and people are too used to running lamps until they die.

I have no problem with throwing away a 20p light bulb early.

I do have a problem with throwing away a GBP 6.49 (which is what the higher
rated ones in Wicks were costing today) light bulb early

tim