I'm trying to replace the existing plastic coverplates with more funky metal
ones.

This photo shows the front of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621338/

This photo shows the back of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621414/


This photo shows the back of the replacement plate:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621480/

Have I got the wrong replacement plate? If so, what do I need to ask for?
If not, how do I wire up the new plate?

Thanks

Edward

Edward wrote:

I'm trying to replace the existing plastic coverplates with more funky metal
ones.

Have I got the wrong replacement plate?

Looks like it, the original seems to be a changeover type, is it one of
(at least) three switches controlling one (or more) light?

If so, what do I need to ask for?

A 1 Gang intermediate light switch, but good luck finding them if your
metal switchplate is too fancy.

Don't forget, you must also run an extra earth (sheathed in
green/yellow) from where the existing earth terminates
in the back box, to the earth terminal on the new metal switchplate.

On Dec 13, 11:15*am, Andy Burns wrote:
Edward wrote:
I'm trying to replace the existing plastic coverplates with more funky metal
ones.

Have I got the wrong replacement plate?

Looks like it, the original seems to be a changeover type, is it one of
(at least) three switches controlling one (or more) light?

If so, what do I need to ask for?

A 1 Gang intermediate light switch, but good luck finding them if your
metal switchplate is too fancy.

Don't forget, you must also run an extra earth (sheathed in
green/yellow) from where the existing earth terminates
in the back box, to the earth terminal on the new metal switchplate.

Thanks (replying from GG as my OE seems to have given up).

Do I need to add the earth wire for ALL the metal plates?

Thanks

Edward

wrote:

Thanks (replying from GG as my OE seems to have given up).

Do I need to add the earth wire for ALL the metal plates?

Yes, otherwise think what could happen if a live wire comes loose from
its terminal and touches the plate?

Andy Burns wrote:
wrote:

Thanks (replying from GG as my OE seems to have given up).

Do I need to add the earth wire for ALL the metal plates?

Yes, otherwise think what could happen if a live wire comes loose from
its terminal and touches the plate?

it should earth through the screws to the box to some extent, but to be
totally safe add an earth to any metal fitting in the lighting circuit .
unless you don't have one as in my mothering-laws house and all the
fittings were brass, switches, ceiling roses, wall lights it an accident
waiting to happen

--
Kevin R
Reply address works

"Kevin" wrote in message
...
Andy Burns wrote:
wrote:

Thanks (replying from GG as my OE seems to have given up).

Do I need to add the earth wire for ALL the metal plates?

Yes, otherwise think what could happen if a live wire comes loose from
its terminal and touches the plate?

it should earth through the screws to the box to some extent, but to be
totally safe add an earth to any metal fitting in the lighting circuit .
unless you don't have one as in my mothering-laws house and all the
fittings were brass, switches, ceiling roses, wall lights it an accident
waiting to happen

--
Kevin R

The MiL
So is that waiting to or hoping to happen?

Adam

Edward wrote:
I'm trying to replace the existing plastic coverplates with more funky metal
ones.

This photo shows the front of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621338/

This photo shows the back of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621414/


This photo shows the back of the replacement plate:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621480/

Have I got the wrong replacement plate? If so, what do I need to ask for?
If not, how do I wire up the new plate?

No, not necessarily, but you will have to wire it up a bit differently.
I am a bit worried about the current switch - I cant make out if its a
full 2 pole isolator, or a changeover with an extra common terminal.

What is written on the terminals please?


Thanks

Edward

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Edward wrote:
I'm trying to replace the existing plastic coverplates with more
funky metal ones.

This photo shows the front of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621338/

This photo shows the back of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621414/


This photo shows the back of the replacement plate:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621480/

Have I got the wrong replacement plate? If so, what do I need to
ask for? If not, how do I wire up the new plate?

No, not necessarily, but you will have to wire it up a bit
differently.
I am a bit worried about the current switch - I cant make out if its
a full 2 pole isolator, or a changeover with an extra common
terminal.

What is written on the terminals please?


As Andy has already said, the original is an *intermediate* switch for
a two way circuit, all four terminals are required for the correct
operation of the existing circuit.
--
Regards, Jerry.
Location - United Kingdom.
In the first instance please reply to group, sorry,
Emails to the reply-to address are deleted unread.

Jerry wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Edward wrote:
I'm trying to replace the existing plastic coverplates with more
funky metal ones.

This photo shows the front of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621338/

This photo shows the back of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621414/


This photo shows the back of the replacement plate:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621480/

Have I got the wrong replacement plate? If so, what do I need to
ask for? If not, how do I wire up the new plate?

No, not necessarily, but you will have to wire it up a bit
differently.
I am a bit worried about the current switch - I cant make out if its
a full 2 pole isolator, or a changeover with an extra common
terminal.

What is written on the terminals please?


As Andy has already said, the original is an *intermediate* switch for
a two way circuit, all four terminals are required for the correct
operation of the existing circuit.
Ah.. mea culpa.

I'd forgotten intermediates..

I think senility is setting in.

Edward wrote:
I'm trying to replace the existing plastic coverplates with more funky metal
ones.

Have I got the wrong replacement plate?

'fraid so.

If so, what do I need to ask for?

You need an intermediate switch (and some red sleeving to slip over the
black wires).

--
Andy

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Andy Wade wrote:

Edward wrote:
I'm trying to replace the existing plastic coverplates with more
funky metal ones.

Have I got the wrong replacement plate?

'fraid so.

If so, what do I need to ask for?

You need an intermediate switch (and some red sleeving to slip over
the black wires).


The original *could* be an intermediate switch. But equally, could it not
just be a two-pole on/off switch which switches both live and neutral?

If that is the case, unless the neutral *needs* to be switched, the OP could
simply join the black wires together and connect the reds to COM and L1 or
L2.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Roger Mills wrote:

The original *could* be an intermediate switch. But equally, could it not
just be a two-pole on/off switch which switches both live and neutral?

The front of it only showed a single switch.

On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 20:02:19 +0000, Andy Burns
wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:

The original *could* be an intermediate switch. But equally, could it not
just be a two-pole on/off switch which switches both live and neutral?

The front of it only showed a single switch.

Not two-gang - a single-gang double-pole switch.

--
Frank Erskine

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Frank Erskine wrote:

On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 20:02:19 +0000, Andy Burns
wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:

The original *could* be an intermediate switch. But equally, could
it not just be a two-pole on/off switch which switches both live
and neutral?

The front of it only showed a single switch.

Not two-gang - a single-gang double-pole switch.


Indeed! I never mentioned gangs! A two *pole* switch can be operated by a
single rocker.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Frank Erskine wrote:
On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 20:02:19 +0000, Andy Burns
wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:

The original *could* be an intermediate switch. But equally, could it not
just be a two-pole on/off switch which switches both live and neutral?
The front of it only showed a single switch.

Not two-gang - a single-gang double-pole switch.

Ah yes, I see what Roger meant, but I wouldn't really say it was equally
likely, the lack of sleeving doesn't help clarify it.

Roger Mills wrote:

The original *could* be an intermediate switch. But equally, could it not
just be a two-pole on/off switch which switches both live and neutral?

Double-pole switching for lighting would be quite unusual in an ordinary
household installation. Apart from which the word "intermediate" -
visible on the rear moulding in the photo - is something of a clue.

--
Andy

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Andy Wade wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:

The original *could* be an intermediate switch. But equally, could
it not just be a two-pole on/off switch which switches both live and
neutral?

Double-pole switching for lighting would be quite unusual in an
ordinary household installation. Apart from which the word
"intermediate" - visible on the rear moulding in the photo - is
something of a clue.

You've got better eyesight than me, then! I blew up the picture but still
couldn't read the word which *may* be 'intermediate' with any certainty.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Andy Wade wrote:

"intermediate" - visible on the rear moulding in the photo - is
something of a clue.

You've got better eyesight than me, then! I blew up the picture but still
couldn't read the word which *may* be 'intermediate' with any certainty.

ICBW but it just /looks/ to me like the back of an MK 4875 intermediate
switch (old Logic range), or a clone thereof, and the wording in
question definitely ends in "ate".

If it were a DP switch it would have a 20 A rating and the terminals
would be larger. I don't think MK ever did a 6 A DP plate switch in
that range. Also a DP switch would usually have L and N markings on the
terminals.

Of course an intermediate switch would usually be wired using 3C+E
cable, with the (old) core colours to the switch being red and blue.
Here we have blacks, so the cables must be T&E and the wiring done with
the line feeding in to one of the associated 2-way switches and the
switched line take from the other 2-way.

--
Andy

"Edward" wrote in message
...
I'm trying to replace the existing plastic coverplates with more funky
metal ones.

This photo shows the front of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621338/

This photo shows the back of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621414/


This photo shows the back of the replacement plate:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621480/

Have I got the wrong replacement plate? If so, what do I need to ask for?
If not, how do I wire up the new plate?

Thanks

Edward

Why don't you just slap a meter across it?

Brass Monkey wrote:
"Edward" wrote in message
...
I'm trying to replace the existing plastic coverplates with more funky
metal ones.

This photo shows the front of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621338/

This photo shows the back of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621414/


This photo shows the back of the replacement plate:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621480/

Have I got the wrong replacement plate? If so, what do I need to ask for?
If not, how do I wire up the new plate?

Thanks

Edward

Why don't you just slap a meter across it?


all depends on if you know what to do with it in the first place, bloody
dangerous if you don't, after seeing the remains of one burnt to a crisp

--
Kevin R
Reply address works

In article ,
Kevin wrote:
Why don't you just slap a meter across it?


all depends on if you know what to do with it in the first place, bloody
dangerous if you don't, after seeing the remains of one burnt to a crisp

You would normally disconnect it and use the continuity setting if
checking the parameters of a switch.

--
*A conscience is what hurts when all your other parts feel so good *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Kevin wrote:
Why don't you just slap a meter across it?


all depends on if you know what to do with it in the first place, bloody
dangerous if you don't, after seeing the remains of one burnt to a crisp

You would normally disconnect it and use the continuity setting if
checking the parameters of a switch.

continuity what's that? where do the leads go on the meter? I get
reading on these two connectors but not these two, why do I get a
reading when the probes are not connected ETC
to some one who has no idea what to expect or how to use a meter these
are the sort of questions you get(my father for one)

--
Kevin R
Reply address works

In article ,
Kevin wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Kevin wrote:
Why don't you just slap a meter across it?


all depends on if you know what to do with it in the first place,
bloody dangerous if you don't, after seeing the remains of one burnt
to a crisp

You would normally disconnect it and use the continuity setting if
checking the parameters of a switch.

continuity what's that? where do the leads go on the meter? I get
reading on these two connectors but not these two, why do I get a
reading when the probes are not connected ETC
to some one who has no idea what to expect or how to use a meter these
are the sort of questions you get(my father for one)

Perhaps anyone that stupid shouldn't be fiddling with electricity?

--
*I can see your point, but I still think you're full of ****.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Edward wrote:
I'm trying to replace the existing plastic coverplates with more funky metal
ones.

This photo shows the front of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621338/

This photo shows the back of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621414/


This photo shows the back of the replacement plate:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621480/

Have I got the wrong replacement plate? If so, what do I need to ask for?
If not, how do I wire up the new plate?

It looks like the switch is one of (at least) three that control a
single light position. Have a look at the "three way" section he

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Way_Switching

You will need to get an intermediate switch to replace it. Any good
electrical wholesaler will have these, they may not be as common in
ordinary shops thought.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"John Rumm" wrote in message
et...
Edward wrote:
I'm trying to replace the existing plastic coverplates with more funky
metal ones.

This photo shows the front of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621338/

This photo shows the back of the plate I'm trying to replace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621414/


This photo shows the back of the replacement plate:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30588773@N04/3104621480/

Have I got the wrong replacement plate? If so, what do I need to ask
for? If not, how do I wire up the new plate?

It looks like the switch is one of (at least) three that control a single
light position. Have a look at the "three way" section he

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Way_Switching

You will need to get an intermediate switch to replace it. Any good
electrical wholesaler will have these, they may not be as common in
ordinary shops thought.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Clean the paint off it and refit it. I think you will struggle to get a
matching intermediate switch.

Perhaps look at the MK Gridswitch range - you may find something.

John wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message

You will need to get an intermediate switch to replace it. Any good
electrical wholesaler will have these, they may not be as common in
ordinary shops thought.

Clean the paint off it and refit it. I think you will struggle to get a
matching intermediate switch.

They should be easy enough to find:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AAINTWS.html
or
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG913.html
or slightly rounded corners:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CM2710.html
or a bit more curvy:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GU1014.html


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"John Rumm" wrote in message
et...
John wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message

You will need to get an intermediate switch to replace it. Any good
electrical wholesaler will have these, they may not be as common in
ordinary shops thought.

Clean the paint off it and refit it. I think you will struggle to get a
matching intermediate switch.

They should be easy enough to find:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AAINTWS.html
or
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG913.html
or slightly rounded corners:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CM2710.html
or a bit more curvy:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GU1014.html

But none of those will match the metal faced ones that the OP wants to fit.

Tim

On Dec 18, 7:56 am, "Tim Downie"
wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message

et...



John wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message

You will need to get an intermediate switch to replace it. Any good
electrical wholesaler will have these, they may not be as common in
ordinary shops thought.

Clean the paint off it and refit it. I think you will struggle to get a
matching intermediate switch.

They should be easy enough to find:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AAINTWS.html
or
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG913.html
or slightly rounded corners:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CM2710.html
or a bit more curvy:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GU1014.html

But none of those will match the metal faced ones that the OP wants to fit.


Can't remember /which/ metal faced one the OP wanted, but a /very/
quick google gave:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/KN12BCW.html

John Rumm wrote:
John wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message

You will need to get an intermediate switch to replace it. Any good
electrical wholesaler will have these, they may not be as common in
ordinary shops thought.

Clean the paint off it and refit it. I think you will struggle to get
a matching intermediate switch.

They should be easy enough to find:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AAINTWS.html
or
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG913.html
or slightly rounded corners:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CM2710.html
or a bit more curvy:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GU1014.html


the op wanted funky metal ones I seem to remember

--
Kevin R
Reply address works

In article ,
Kevin wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
John wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message

You will need to get an intermediate switch to replace it. Any good
electrical wholesaler will have these, they may not be as common in
ordinary shops thought.

Clean the paint off it and refit it. I think you will struggle to get
a matching intermediate switch.

They should be easy enough to find:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AAINTWS.html
or
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG913.html
or slightly rounded corners:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CM2710.html
or a bit more curvy:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GU1014.html


the op wanted funky metal ones I seem to remember

Pretty well all the major makes will do a one gang intermediate in all
their ranges - but it may not listed on wholesalers's websites, etc.

If you've gone for shed specials, the lack of range is something you
ultimately pay for in their reduced range.

--
*Friends help you move. Real friends help you move bodies.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.