I was going to buy a thermal store and heat it with a woodburner. I
planned for it to deliver hot water and perhaps pump the central
heating from it - though this could be pumped directly from the stove
if it had enough connections. I don't have oil or gas and would prefer
to keep it that way, but decided to plan for an oil boiler in the
future if necessary.

The bad news is:

1. Thermal stores need to be maintained at a high temperature (70 -
90degrees) according to manufacturers. This is bad news for heat loss,
and makes the utilisation of a future condensing boiler problematic.

2. The operating range of temperatures for hot water is quite small
(~20 degrees) which means they can't produce as much hot water as you
might hope without frequent input from a boiler.

3. Your typical (say 250l) thermal store will not stratify - the
water inside will mix through conduction and convection, particularly
if the heat exchanger is internal. This is in contrast to an unvented
tank, with fresh cold water comming in from the bottom.

4. Although they don't require an annual inspection, neither do
unvented cylinders, so this isn't a benefit.

5. You can incorporate multiple heat sources with a thermal store, but
you can do that with a sealed system as well - again no benefit.

6. You can't put radiators and store anywhere - you can with a sealed
system.

The good news:

1. You don't have to involve building control with a thermal store.

So, I've decided on a sealed system and unvented tank powered by a
multifuel stove, to which I can add an oil boiler (which will
condense) when I get too old to carry logs.

T

On 2 Dec, 15:35, wrote:

1. Thermal stores need to be maintained at a high temperature (70 -
90degrees) according to manufacturers. This is bad news for heat loss,
and makes the utilisation of a future condensing boiler problematic.

Look at better makers. Those with better stratification and heat
exchangers designed for this can accept lower input temperatures. Take
a look at the Conus / Consolar kit and their quite detailed
descriptions for an example of just what's possible for "best
practice" (and a high budget!) Then find a way to do it cheaper (my
own involves buying things from scrappies in the Forest of Dean, and
you don't get more bodge-tastic than that.


3. Your typical (say 250l) thermal store will not stratify

If it's not stratified, then IMHO it doesn't count as a thermal store.

5. You can incorporate multiple heat sources with a thermal store, but
you can do that with a sealed system as well - again no benefit.

Easier with a good thermal store though.

On 2 Dec, 16:15, Andy Dingley wrote:
On 2 Dec, 15:35, wrote:

1. Thermal stores need to be maintained at a high temperature (70 -
90degrees) according to manufacturers. This is bad news for heat loss,
and makes the utilisation of a future condensing boiler problematic.

Look at better makers. Those with better stratification and heat
exchangers designed for this can accept lower input temperatures. Take
a look at the Conus / Consolar kit and their quite detailed
descriptions for an example of just what's possible for "best
practice" (and a high budget!) *Then find a way to do it cheaper *(my
own involves buying things from scrappies in the Forest of Dean, and
you don't get more bodge-tastic than that.


I take your point. However you must agree that the behemoths from
Consolar are best suited to properties with plenty of space and
perhaps even high demand. If demand is low, even one of those will
lose stratification through conduction! I did look at them, but
decided I couldn't justify the loss of a room!

T

On 2 Dec, 16:29, wrote:
If demand is low, even one of those will
lose stratification through conduction!

I have the figures somewhere (although not worked for a Consolar, a
chap with a very big anorak worked it out) and in fact it _won't_.
Heat loss through conduction gets it first (although this was assuming
no demand to disturb things) as water's such a poor conductor and so
good at convective transfer. It's crucial to get the top lid
insulation adequate, as any cooling there _will_ set up convection and
chill the hot layer.

On 2 Dec, 18:18, Andy Dingley wrote:
On 2 Dec, 16:29, wrote:

If demand is low, even one of those will
lose stratification through conduction!

I have the figures somewhere (although not worked for a Consolar, a
chap with a very big anorak worked it out) and in fact it _won't_.
Heat loss through conduction gets it first (although this was assuming
no demand to disturb things) as water's such a poor conductor and so
good at convective transfer. It's crucial to get the top lid
insulation adequate, as any cooling there _will_ set up convection and
chill the hot layer.

I'd be amused to see that calculation. Putting the complicated maths
to one side, how could a tubular heat exchanger in a consolar work if
water were such a poor conductor? It's nearly 30 times better
conductor than urethane foam. Water is about 0.65 thingies at
temperatures one might expect to encounter in a thermal store,
compared to about 0.022 thingies for urethane foam.

T

On Tue, 2 Dec 2008 07:35:58 -0800 (PST), wrote:

4. Although they don't require an annual inspection, neither do
unvented cylinders, so this isn't a benefit.

I thought unvented cylinders *did* require an annual inspection.

So, I've decided on a sealed system and unvented tank powered by a
multifuel stove,

I hope you've given consideration to what happens when the system is up to
temperature but the stove has just been stoked up. Where does that energy
go in a sealed/unvented system? A stove does not switch off instantly like
a gas or oil boiler...

Also think about what happens if the power fails, the boiler circuit needs
to be gravity, not pumped or the moment you would really like to have the
stove on you can't and if it's blazing away when the power goes you have a
lot of heat to dump possibly fairly quickly to stop the boiler boiling.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 2 Dec 2008 07:35:58 -0800 (PST), wrote:

4. Although they don't require an annual inspection, neither do
unvented cylinders, so this isn't a benefit.

I thought unvented cylinders *did* require an annual inspection.

So, I've decided on a sealed system and unvented tank powered by a
multifuel stove,

I hope you've given consideration to what happens when the system is up to
temperature but the stove has just been stoked up. Where does that energy
go in a sealed/unvented system? A stove does not switch off instantly like
a gas or oil boiler...

Also think about what happens if the power fails, the boiler circuit needs
to be gravity, not pumped or the moment you would really like to have the
stove on you can't and if it's blazing away when the power goes you have a
lot of heat to dump possibly fairly quickly to stop the boiler boiling.



If you search for these things, you find this:

"No sacrificial anode (eliminates need for annual inspection)"

repeated all over the place in reference to SS Megaflows. But some
appear to have sacrificial anodes - does that/is it that which makes
them require annual inspections?

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

On Tue, 2 Dec 2008 07:35:58 -0800 (PST) someone who may be
wrote this:-

6. You can't put radiators and store anywhere

Where can't you and why?


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

On 3 Dec, 10:44, David Hansen wrote:
On Tue, 2 Dec 2008 07:35:58 -0800 (PST) someone who may be
wrote this:-

6. You can't put radiators and store anywhere

Where can't you and why?

--
* David Hansen, Edinburgh
*I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
*http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

Manufacturers specify that the highest point in the radiator circuit
must be 500mm below the top of the store (or the feed and expansion
tank if you have one). You could of course have a sealed radiator or
U/F system heat exchanging with the relatively cool water in the lower
half of a store with all the problems of exchanging heat across a
small temperature difference. That's probably why none of the
manufacturers I've spoken to recommend it - it doesn't work.

T

On Wed, 3 Dec 2008 03:13:21 -0800 (PST) someone who may be
wrote this:-

Manufacturers specify that the highest point in the radiator circuit
must be 500mm below the top of the store (or the feed and expansion
tank if you have one).

Manufacturers specify many things, in order to cover themselves. One
must be able to see through their claims to get the best out of
anything.

Do they say why they specify this? The only reason I can think of
quickly is that you are referring to a thermal store with built
above F&E tank.

Newark don't seem to have anything like that, though I have not
looked hard
http://www.newarkcoppercylinder.co.uk/cylinders/thermal_store/.
Obviously radiators must be below the F&E tank, wherever this
happens to be located. If it is located on top of the thermal store
then the radiators will need to be below it. However, thermal stores
work perfectly well with radiators above them, one simply has to
design and install things properly.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

In article , wrote:
On 3 Dec, 10:44, David Hansen wrote:
On Tue, 2 Dec 2008 07:35:58 -0800 (PST) someone who may be
wrote this:-

6. You can't put radiators and store anywhere

Where can't you and why?

--
* David Hansen, Edinburgh
*I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
*http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

Manufacturers specify that the highest point in the radiator circuit
must be 500mm below the top of the store (or the feed and expansion
tank if you have one). You could of course have a sealed radiator or
U/F system heat exchanging with the relatively cool water in the lower
half of a store with all the problems of exchanging heat across a
small temperature difference. That's probably why none of the
manufacturers I've spoken to recommend it - it doesn't work.

I'm glad I didn't learn that before adding radiators to my thermal
store system (with U/F heat), but since the manufacturer's drawings
show it as an option and it's working, I'm not overly worried.

wrote in message
...

I was going to buy a thermal store and heat it with a woodburner. I
planned for it to deliver hot water and perhaps pump the central
heating from it - though this could be pumped directly from the stove
if it had enough connections. I don't have oil or gas and would prefer
to keep it that way, but decided to plan for an oil boiler in the
future if necessary.

The bad news is:

Bad news? New to me.

1. Thermal stores need to be maintained
at a high temperature (70 - 90degrees)
according to manufacturers. This is bad
news for heat loss, and makes the utilisation
of a future condensing boiler problematic.

Nonsense. No stipulates 90C operation. Even if a 80C store temp a
condensing boiler will be condensing 80% of re-heat. Most heat banks
(thermal stores with external plate heat exchangers) operate between 70 &
75C. The larger the plate heat exchanger the less the stored temperature.

2. The operating range of temperatures
for hot water is quite small (~20 degrees)
which means they can't produce as much
hot water as you might hope without frequent
input from a boiler.

two anti-cycle stats on the store eliminates boiler cycling. The boiler is
on full flow at all times. See above, large plate heat exchanger.

3. Your typical (say 250l) thermal store
will not stratify - the water inside will
mix through conduction and convection,
particularly if the heat exchanger is internal.
This is in contrast to an unvented
tank, with fresh cold water comming in from
the bottom.

Total tripe. You will get stratification (thermal layering) giving very cool
temperatures at the bottom of the store. The DHW plate ensure water 20-30C
return to the bottom of the cylinder. This ensures highly efficient
condensing boiler operation.

4. Although they don't require an annual
inspection, neither do unvented cylinders,
so this isn't a benefit.

Unvented cylinders require an annual inspection by an approved fitter - that
costs.
Unvented cylidners can do this, water heater blasts:
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=pu3FwgIHsQA
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=GF_Wrm-Ns0I

Thermal stores are NOT a direct comparison to DHW only unvented cylinders as
they also provide a superb CH buffer and allow for TRVs on all rads using a
Smart pump. Thermal stores offer so much more. They are a different animal
altogether, and so much better.

5. You can incorporate multiple heat
sources with a thermal store, but
you can do that with a sealed system
as well - again no benefit.

Urrrr? Come again?

6. You can't put radiators and store
anywhere - you can with a sealed
system.

There are pressurised heat banks - they do not require an annual service.
These operate at 1 bar and can run a system boiler direct. They ca be
anywhere. Even with a vented store the CH can be taken off a coil in the
store ensuring the rads can be anywhere on pressurised loop.

The good news:

1. You don't have to involve building
control with a thermal store.

Yep.

So, I've decided on a sealed system and unvented tank powered by a
multifuel stove, to which I can add an oil boiler (which will
condense) when I get too old to carry logs.

What a bad choice, you poor sod. See:
http://www.advanceappliances.co.uk/g...e_systems.html

They will supply stainless steel, vented or pressurised, DHW internal coil
or external plate heat exchangers (heat bank). Best get two cylinder stat
probes to give boiler anti-cycling. They will insert solid fuel and solar
coils as well. The business indeed.

Doctor Drivel wrote:
wrote in message

4. Although they don't require an annual
inspection, neither do unvented cylinders,
so this isn't a benefit.

Unvented cylinders require an annual inspection by an approved fitter
- that costs.

Can you provide a link or any evidence for this? I couldn't find any on the
net. Not saying it doesn't exist but that I haven't found any.

What would you say to this? http://yaph.co.uk/unvented/

Tim

"Tim Downie" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel wrote:
wrote in message

4. Although they don't require an annual
inspection, neither do unvented cylinders,
so this isn't a benefit.

Unvented cylinders require an annual inspection by an approved fitter
- that costs.

Can you provide a link or any evidence for this? I couldn't find any on
the net. Not saying it doesn't exist but that I haven't found any.

The makers instructions state so. I am pretty sure schedule 1 para G3
states a recommendation or maybe words like that. If the makers also say
so, then you do need the service. Just get a heat bank - better and cheaper
and does the heating too.

One unvented cylinder went boom:
http://tinyurl.com/2e899k

On 3 Dec, 16:15, "Doctor Drivel" wrote:
wrote in message

1. Thermal stores need to be maintained
at a high temperature (70 - 90degrees)
according to manufacturers. This is bad
news for heat loss, and makes the utilisation
of a future condensing boiler problematic.

Nonsense. No stipulates 90C operation. Even if a 80C store temp a
condensing boiler will be condensing 80% of re-heat. Most heat banks
(thermal stores with external plate heat exchangers) operate between 70 &
75C. The larger the plate heat exchanger the less the stored temperature.


I'm just reporting what manufacturers have told me - the upper part of
the store must be kept between 70-90 degrees. Actually one stated
80-90 degrees.

2. The operating range of temperatures
for hot water is quite small (~20 degrees)
which means they can't produce as much
hot water as you might hope without frequent
input from a boiler.

two anti-cycle stats on the store eliminates boiler cycling. The boiler is
on full flow at all times. See above, large plate heat exchanger.


You miss the point. An unvented cylinder will hold its volume in hot
water, a thermal store will have to be significantly bigger to compete
with the tank, or heated more often. If we consider the upper half of
a store, with 20degrees to play with, it would have to be about 4
times the size before it could begin to compete. With less that
perfect heat exchangers (whose performance diminishes with temperature
difference) its more likely you would need a store significantly
larger. If you don't use it, the water will of course cool down more
quickly and mix with the colder water below.

3. Your typical (say 250l) thermal store
will not stratify - the water inside will
mix through conduction and convection,
particularly if the heat exchanger is internal.
This is in contrast to an unvented
tank, with fresh cold water comming in from
the bottom.

Total tripe. You will get stratification (thermal layering) giving very cool
temperatures at the bottom of the store. The DHW plate ensure water 20-30C
return to the bottom of the cylinder. This ensures highly efficient
condensing boiler operation.


I can see you have read the marketing literature. I must say that if
you believe that a heat exchanger will return water at a lower
temperature than the outgoing hot water, then I'm probably wasting my
time with this reply. The heat exchanger will in fact return water at
a higher temperature than the water it heats, depending on how good it
is.

4. Although they don't require an annual
inspection, neither do unvented cylinders,
so this isn't a benefit.

Unvented cylinders require an annual inspection by an approved fitter - that
costs.

Perhaps you could point to the legislation?


Thermal stores are NOT a direct comparison to DHW only unvented cylinders as
they also provide a superb CH buffer and allow for TRVs on all rads using a
Smart pump. Thermal stores offer so much more. They are a different animal
altogether, and so much better.


The fact is they provide a central heating lag when cooled down, and
since they must be maintained at such a narrow temperature range, they
don't provide much of buffer. Even worse, they prevent condensing
boilers from operating properly due to the high return temperatures!

5. You can incorporate multiple heat
sources with a thermal store, but
you can do that with a sealed system
as well - again no benefit.

Urrrr? Come again?


OK - You can incorporate multiple heat sources with a thermal store,
but you can do that with a sealed system as well - again no benefit.

6. You can't put radiators and store
anywhere - you can with a sealed
system.

There are pressurised heat banks - they do not require an annual service.
These operate at 1 bar and can run a system boiler direct. They ca be
anywhere. Even with a vented store the CH can be taken off a coil in the
store ensuring the rads can be anywhere on pressurised loop.


What would be the point of that? You would need a store at a high
temperature and an enormous heat exchanger. A technically better
solution would be to not bother with the store at all!

The good news:

1. You don't have to involve building
control with a thermal store.

Yep.

So, I've decided on a sealed system and unvented tank powered by a
multifuel stove, to which I can add an oil boiler (which will
condense) when I get too old to carry logs.

What a bad choice, you poor sod. See:http://www.advanceappliances.co.uk/g...e_systems.html


I can think of at least six reasons not to install one of those. Did
you spot in their installation instructions that the thermostat should
be set at 75C ?

Its a technically inferior solution to a sealed system and unvented
cylinder.

T

wrote in message
...

On 3 Dec, 16:15, "Doctor Drivel" wrote:
wrote in message

1. Thermal stores need to be maintained
at a high temperature (70 - 90degrees)
according to manufacturers. This is bad
news for heat loss, and makes the utilisation
of a future condensing boiler problematic.

Nonsense. None stipulates 90C operation. Even if a 80C store temp a
condensing boiler will be condensing 80% of re-heat. Most heat banks
(thermal stores with external plate heat exchangers) operate between 70 &
75C. The larger the plate heat exchanger the less the stored
temperature.


I'm just reporting what manufacturers have told me - the upper part of
the store must be kept between 70-90 degrees. Actually one stated
80-90 degrees.

OIl and gas boilers only reach 82C.

2. The operating range of temperatures
for hot water is quite small (~20 degrees)
which means they can't produce as much
hot water as you might hope without frequent
input from a boiler.

two anti-cycle stats on the store eliminates boiler cycling. The boiler
is
on full flow at all times. See above, large plate heat exchanger.

You miss the point. An unvented
cylinder will hold its volume in hot
water,

Assuming the whole of the cylinder is at the temperature you want it to be
at the taps - stratification will stop that happening, unless a shut pump is
operating most of the time.

a thermal store will have to
be significantly bigger to compete
with the tank, or heated more often.

No. A store full of water which is 70C - just heated and stat satisfied.
Large DHW plate heat exchanger. DHW is drawn off in bath. The DHW temp
sent to the blending valve will be around 60C, the blender mixes to say 55C.
The returned water to the bottom of the store will be about 20 to 30C from
the DHW plate. Stratification will ensure that 75C water will just rise up
the cylinder with 20-30C water rising up as the store is depleted. You end
up with a store of water 20-30C, just above the cold water mains temp.
Coiled stores are not so efficient, plate make a big difference.

3. Your typical (say 250l) thermal store
will not stratify - the water inside will
mix through conduction and convection,
particularly if the heat exchanger is internal.
This is in contrast to an unvented
tank, with fresh cold water comming in from
the bottom.

Total tripe. You will get stratification (thermal layering) giving very
cool
temperatures at the bottom of the store. The DHW plate ensure water
20-30C
return to the bottom of the cylinder. This ensures highly efficient
condensing boiler operation.

I can see you have read the marketing
literature.

No. I built and tested them.

I must say that if you believe that
a heat exchanger will return water at a lower
temperature than the outgoing hot water,
then I'm probably wasting my
time with this reply.

I think you are wasting your time full stop. You really don't understand
something fundamentally simple.

The heat exchanger will in fact return water at
a higher temperature than the water it heats,
depending on how good it is.

I think we have one here.

4. Although they don't require an annual
inspection, neither do unvented cylinders,
so this isn't a benefit.

Unvented cylinders require an annual
inspection by an approved fitter - that
costs.

Perhaps you could point to the legislation?

Schedule 1 para G3. If makers say you need an annual service then you need
one - all state so.

Thermal stores are NOT a direct comparison
to DHW only unvented cylinders as
they also provide a superb CH buffer
and allow for TRVs on all rads using a
Smart pump. Thermal stores offer so
much more. They are a different animal
altogether, and so much better.

The fact is they provide a central heating
lag when cooled down,

The stats are set so it doesn't cool down enough to make any difference.

and since they must be maintained at
such a narrow temperature range,

What temperature range might this be?

they don't provide much of buffer.

They provide a wonderful anti-cycle buffer. Have a system boiler with an
integral weather compensator heating the CH section maintains the lower
section at what the compensator dictates, which is very low and lower than
condensing return temperatures 90% of the time. DHW draw-off reduce the
bottom section to very cold temperatures.

Even worse, they prevent condensing
boilers from operating properly due to
the high return temperatures!

You have been told the return temperatures are very low. Do you understand?
You could have a high return temp from the CH, but it will drop
significantly at the bottom when DHW is drawn off. ACV have a pancake coil
at the bottom to pre-heat cold mains water which keeps the bottom very cold
indeed.

5. You can incorporate multiple heat
sources with a thermal store, but
you can do that with a sealed system
as well - again no benefit.

Urrrr? Come again?


OK - You can incorporate multiple heat sources with a thermal store,
but you can do that with a sealed system as well - again no benefit.

Babbled garbage.

6. You can't put radiators and store
anywhere - you can with a sealed
system.

There are pressurised heat banks -
they do not require an annual service.
These operate at 1 bar and can run a
system boiler direct. They ca be
anywhere. Even with a vented store the
CH can be taken off a coil in the
store ensuring the rads can be anywhere
on pressurised loop.

What would be the point of that?
You would need a store at a high
temperature and an enormous heat
exchanger. A technically better
solution would be to not bother with
the store at all!

This one is three sheets to the wind.

The good news:

1. You don't have to involve building
control with a thermal store.

Yep.

So, I've decided on a sealed system
and unvented tank powered by a
multifuel stove, to which I can add an
oil boiler (which will condense) when
I get too old to carry logs.

What a bad choice, you poor sod.
See:http://www.advanceappliances.co.uk/g...e_systems.html


I can think of at least six reasons
not to install one of those.

But you are not very good at thinking.

Did you spot in their installation instructions
that the thermostat should be set at 75C ?

At let less than 90C isn't it. and that is with a coil DHW take off. That
can go down to 60C using a large plate heat exchanger.

Its a technically inferior solution to a
sealed system and unvented
cylinder.

You have had all of this explained to you on these thread and still you
cannot understand. Also a T store is not equal to an unvented cylinder as it
does CH as well. Do you understand? I doubt it.

You are a planted spammer, as no one can be that dumb.

Thermal storage is big in Germany:
http://www.solarserver.de/solarmagaz...uar2002-e.html

wrote in message
...


I can see you have read the marketing literature. I must say that if
you believe that a heat exchanger will return water at a lower
temperature than the outgoing hot water, then I'm probably wasting my
time with this reply. The heat exchanger will in fact return water at
a higher temperature than the water it heats, depending on how good it
is.

It should be quite possible to do a heat exchanger that returns water cooler
than the DHW output.
You feed the hot water from the store at one end and cold mains water from
the other.
If you get the flow exactly right you can drop the store water down to
almost the same temp as the cold mains and the mains water almost as hot as
the store water.
Getting the flow exactly right will be hard and will probably require some
electronics and variable speed pumps.



Its a technically inferior solution to a sealed system and unvented
cylinder.

It is an unvented cylinder with a few bits added.

"dennis@home" wrote in message
...


wrote in message
...

I can see you have read the marketing literature. I must say that if
you believe that a heat exchanger will return water at a lower
temperature than the outgoing hot water, then I'm probably wasting my
time with this reply. The heat exchanger will in fact return water at
a higher temperature than the water it heats, depending on how good it
is.

It should be quite possible to do a heat exchanger that returns water
cooler than the DHW output.
You feed the hot water from the store at one end and cold mains water from
the other.
If you get the flow exactly right you can drop the store water down to
almost the same temp as the cold mains and the mains water almost as hot
as the store water.
Getting the flow exactly right will be hard and will probably require some
electronics and variable speed pumps.

Some Gledhill models have variable speed pumps and no blending valve only
pumping out of the store the exact amount of hot water needed. A large
plate heat exchanger will drop the return temp into the store dramatically.

Its a technically inferior solution
to a sealed system and unvented
cylinder.

It is an unvented cylinder with a few bits added.

You really know little about thermal storage.

On 3 Dec, 19:59, "dennis@home" wrote:

It is an unvented cylinder with a few bits added.

Apart from that whole "pressure" thing.

And the "few bits" being quite a few, and quite complicated.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 3 Dec, 19:59, "dennis@home" wrote:

It is an unvented cylinder with a few bits added.

Apart from that whole "pressure" thing.

And the "few bits" being quite a few, and quite complicated.

A basic thermal store is not complicated at all.

wrote:

The good news:

1. You don't have to involve building control with a thermal store.

The Building Control involvement in an unvented cylinder is an
electronic notification by the installer. No money changes hands. No
inspections are carried out.
--
Hugo Nebula
"If no-one on the internet wants a piece of this,
just how far from the pack have you strayed"?

"Hugo Nebula" abuse@localhost wrote in message
...
wrote:

The good news:

1. You don't have to involve building control with a thermal store.

The Building Control involvement in an unvented cylinder is an electronic
notification by the installer. No money changes hands. No inspections are
carried out.

Because the installer self certifies the installation

On 3 Dec, 19:29, Hugo Nebula abuse@localhost wrote:
wrote:
The good news:

1. You don't have to involve building control with a thermal store.

The Building Control involvement in an unvented cylinder is an
electronic notification by the installer. No money changes hands. No
inspections are carried out.
--
Hugo Nebula
* "If no-one on the internet wants a piece of this,
* just how far from the pack have you strayed"?

I agree. I said there was involvement, but didn't claim it to be
onerous!

T

To those who think condesning boilers can't be used because the stores
always 80C and all of it top to bottom, look hard.

On-line temps, in real time, of a heat bank system:
http://www.bacwak.net:8080/public_view.htm?viewId=8