The top arm wasn't doing the job properly and I could see that it's
made in two parts (top and bottom) which were separating, so I took it
off and prised it apart completely. I thought it might click back
together but no - damned thing was glued and prising simply unstuck
the stuck glue (IYSWIM). Off to the orange shed for something to
stick it back together and found some Evostick 'Serious Glue', which
was the only thing that claimed to work at high temperatures and in
the wet (superglues etc all warn off use in water). Stuck it back
together, waited 24hr to get a full strength bond. Ran the dishwasher
tonight......and there was the bottom half of the arm sitting in the
bottom tray.
Ironically, a new arm (already ordered from Partsmaster) was only 2.99
(plus the same in P+P, of course), compared with the fiver for the
glue.
Somehow I suspect that a solventy-thing (like model aeroplane glue)
would do a better job as, to some extent, it would weld the plastic (I
know straight chloroform works well for perspex, for example), but
does anyone have any positive experience of trying to do this or is it
just a no-go?

On Nov 24, 5:21*pm, GMM wrote:
The top arm wasn't doing the job properly and I could see that it's
made in two parts (top and bottom) which were separating, so I took it
off and prised it apart completely. *I thought it might click back
together but no - damned thing was glued and prising simply unstuck
the stuck glue (IYSWIM). *Off to the orange shed for something to
stick it back together and found some Evostick 'Serious Glue', which
was the only thing that claimed to work at high temperatures and in
the wet (superglues etc all warn off use in water). *Stuck it back
together, waited 24hr to get a full strength bond. *Ran the dishwasher
tonight......and there was the bottom half of the arm sitting in the
bottom tray.
Ironically, a new arm (already ordered from Partsmaster) was only 2.99
(plus the same in P+P, of course), compared with the fiver for the
glue.
Somehow I suspect that a solventy-thing (like model aeroplane glue)
would do a better job as, to some extent, it would weld the plastic (I
know straight chloroform works well for perspex, for example), but
does anyone have any positive experience of trying to do this or is it
just a no-go?

Use an epoxy, I have it on my car radiator, but cleaning will be the
key to a bond.

On Nov 24, 5:21*pm, GMM wrote:
The top arm wasn't doing the job properly and I could see that it's
made in two parts (top and bottom) which were separating, so I took it
off and prised it apart completely. *I thought it might click back
together but no - damned thing was glued and prising simply unstuck
the stuck glue (IYSWIM). *Off to the orange shed for something to
stick it back together and found some Evostick 'Serious Glue', which
was the only thing that claimed to work at high temperatures and in
the wet (superglues etc all warn off use in water). *Stuck it back
together, waited 24hr to get a full strength bond. *Ran the dishwasher
tonight......and there was the bottom half of the arm sitting in the
bottom tray.
Ironically, a new arm (already ordered from Partsmaster) was only 2.99
(plus the same in P+P, of course), compared with the fiver for the
glue.
Somehow I suspect that a solventy-thing (like model aeroplane glue)
would do a better job as, to some extent, it would weld the plastic (I
know straight chloroform works well for perspex, for example), but
does anyone have any positive experience of trying to do this or is it
just a no-go?

A 2 part paste epoxy.

On 24 Nov, 23:21, GMM wrote:

Somehow I suspect that a solventy-thing (like model aeroplane glue)
would do a better job as, to some extent, it would weld the plastic (I
know straight chloroform works well for perspex, for example), but
does anyone have any positive experience of trying to do this or is it
just a no-go?


The real trick with using a solvent type adhesive is to know exactly
what type of plastic you're sticking. The "model aeroplanes" are
moulded from a polystyrene plastic and the adhesive is just that -
polystyrene and a volatile solvent. To get a really tight joint in
these models the experienced modellers use, what is essentially pure
solvent like, Acetone or Methyl Ethyl Kytone.

On 25 Nov, 15:11, ransley wrote:
On Nov 24, 5:21*pm, GMM wrote:



The top arm wasn't doing the job properly and I could see that it's
made in two parts (top and bottom) which were separating, so I took it
off and prised it apart completely. *I thought it might click back
together but no - damned thing was glued and prising simply unstuck
the stuck glue (IYSWIM). *Off to the orange shed for something to
stick it back together and found some Evostick 'Serious Glue', which
was the only thing that claimed to work at high temperatures and in
the wet (superglues etc all warn off use in water). *Stuck it back
together, waited 24hr to get a full strength bond. *Ran the dishwasher
tonight......and there was the bottom half of the arm sitting in the
bottom tray.
Ironically, a new arm (already ordered from Partsmaster) was only 2.99
(plus the same in P+P, of course), compared with the fiver for the
glue.
Somehow I suspect that a solventy-thing (like model aeroplane glue)
would do a better job as, to some extent, it would weld the plastic (I
know straight chloroform works well for perspex, for example), but
does anyone have any positive experience of trying to do this or is it
just a no-go?

Use an epoxy, I have it on my car radiator, but cleaning will be the
key to a bond.

Epoxy did occur to me but, misguidedly as it turns out, I thought that
a glue that claimed to stick (quoting from the pack) 'all things in
all conditions/-30oC to 130oC/waterproof' might do the job (!). It
seems that the only thing that was correct on the pack was the
'lifetime bond' claim - the bond did indeed last its lifetime (about
10 minutes!).
I looked at all the various options on the rack and one of the epoxies
warned against using near food, so I thought I should steer clear
(though I'm sure any nasties would leach out in a cycle of a
dishwasher)