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Default Hanging doors

A wave of pride came over me yesterday, I had hung (hanged?) 3 upstairs
doors using our bathroom as a workshop (hardly New Yankee) and 'er
indoors said to me..."That's the most mess you've ever made!"

Anyway, our house was built 100 years ago and apparently they had no
concern whatsoever for level/square so much planing was needed.
All the doors fit and open and close adequately but there isn't a
uniform gap all around between the door and the casing. I had to call it
a day as night was drawng in and I wanted closure. The door sides are
straight but some gaps range from 2-4mm from one corner to another, I
can't decide whether to pull them and plane/sand until perfect.
How anal is it normal to be about this?

Also, in the other 'plane', when closing one of the doors...
the door is aligned at the hinge end but at the handle end the door
connects at the bottom but there is a 5mm gap at the top, the casing
must be twisted.
I can come to a compromise on this by budging one of the hinges or if I
force closure (with a little bolt at the top) will the door eventually
conform?

Cheers
Rick

PS, when the other half removes the old doors before you start is this
her being helpful or devious, because as we were buying the doors she
was muttering something about my tendancy to 'lose momentum'!
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Default Hanging doors

On Nov 23, 8:08*pm, R D S wrote:
A wave of pride came over me yesterday, I had hung (hanged?) 3 upstairs
doors using our bathroom as a workshop (hardly New Yankee) and 'er
indoors said to me..."That's the most mess you've ever made!"

Anyway, our house was built 100 years ago and apparently they had no
concern whatsoever for level/square so much planing was needed.
All the doors fit and open and close adequately but there isn't a
uniform gap all around between the door and the casing. I had to call it
a day as night was drawng in and I wanted closure. The door sides are
straight but some gaps range from 2-4mm from one corner to another, I
can't decide whether to pull them and plane/sand until perfect.
How anal is it normal to be about this?

Also, in the other 'plane', when closing one of the doors...
the door is aligned at the hinge end but at the handle end the door
connects at the bottom but there is a 5mm gap at the top, the casing
must be twisted.
I can come to a compromise on this by budging one of the hinges or if I
force closure (with a little bolt at the top) will the door eventually
conform?

Cheers
Rick

PS, when the other half removes the old doors before you start is this
her being helpful or devious, because as we were buying the doors she
was muttering something about my tendancy to 'lose momentum'!



Our front door frame has a slight twist like yours, but 12mm. Putting
a bolt on it for 15 years didn't cause it to conform without the bolt.
You could soak the door for a few days, then clamp it,
overcompensating for the twist, and it might work.
But me, i'd settle for the bolt and leave it at tht. Ant I wouldn't
worry about 2-4 mm variationc in gaps.
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Default Hanging doors


"R D S" wrote in message
...
A wave of pride came over me yesterday, I had hung (hanged?) 3 upstairs
doors using our bathroom as a workshop (hardly New Yankee) and 'er
indoors said to me..."That's the most mess you've ever made!"

Anyway, our house was built 100 years ago and apparently they had no
concern whatsoever for level/square so much planing was needed.
All the doors fit and open and close adequately but there isn't a
uniform gap all around between the door and the casing. I had to call it
a day as night was drawng in and I wanted closure. The door sides are
straight but some gaps range from 2-4mm from one corner to another, I
can't decide whether to pull them and plane/sand until perfect.
How anal is it normal to be about this?

Also, in the other 'plane', when closing one of the doors...
the door is aligned at the hinge end but at the handle end the door
connects at the bottom but there is a 5mm gap at the top, the casing
must be twisted.
I can come to a compromise on this by budging one of the hinges or if I
force closure (with a little bolt at the top) will the door eventually
conform?

Cheers
Rick

PS, when the other half removes the old doors before you start is this
her being helpful or devious, because as we were buying the doors she
was muttering something about my tendancy to 'lose momentum'!


After all the settling and movement throughout the one hundred years, it's a
wonder you are able to get such tight measures as 4 or 5 mm of a gap. :-)

We've had to remove and replace the stops on nearly all the doors in this
old tenement flat of ours. One door was so far out at the top, that it
stuck out of the frame into the room by an inch and half at the top.
Another door fitted perfectly into its frame, but only after it was extended
with a matching wedge shape piece of timber down the hinge side. That took
a lot planing down. :-)

Just be glad you have working doors at all.


And, she is being helpful. When she removed the old doors, she actually got
you to notice the holes in the walls where doors should be. Male mind says
there is something wrong with the scenario, and has to fix it. LOL



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Default Hanging doors

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
R D S wrote:


PS, when the other half removes the old doors before you start is this
her being helpful or devious, because as we were buying the doors she
was muttering something about my tendancy to 'lose momentum'!


She *thinks* she's hurrying the process up - but actually she's making it
more difficult for you.

When replacing doors, the trick is to have a careful look at the gaps round
the old one *before* removing it. You can then lay the old door on top of
the new one to mark it out for trimming - making due allowance in areas
where the original gap was wrong.

As far as twist is concerned, you just have to adjust the hinge positions in
order to get the latch side to line up with the frame.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!


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Default Hanging doors

R D S wrote:

a day as night was drawng in and I wanted closure. The door sides are
straight but some gaps range from 2-4mm from one corner to another, I
can't decide whether to pull them and plane/sand until perfect.
How anal is it normal to be about this?


Easiest way to fix that is take the architraves off, cut some wedges (1
in 7 taper, about 1 1/2" to 2" long), and hammer them into the gap (or
potential gap) outside the frame adjacent to the plaster. It will tun in
the frame enough to even out the gaps. Once you are happy, cut off the
back of the wedges and replace the architraves.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...penny_ joints

Also, in the other 'plane', when closing one of the doors...
the door is aligned at the hinge end but at the handle end the door
connects at the bottom but there is a 5mm gap at the top, the casing
must be twisted.
I can come to a compromise on this by budging one of the hinges or if I
force closure (with a little bolt at the top) will the door eventually
conform?


Probably not. You can either: live with it, move the door stops, fiddle
the hinges (i.e. move the bottom one out a tad), or in really bad cases,
you can twist the door a little if it is a traditionally made one. You
can do this by driving small wedges into joint on the the top//bottom of
the door where the rail meets the stile. It creates a slight gap in one
face of the door though, so only of much use if they can be filled and
painted rather than varnished etc.

PS, when the other half removes the old doors before you start is this
her being helpful or devious, because as we were buying the doors she
was muttering something about my tendancy to 'lose momentum'!


I always put that down to the way they say "oh, you are not going to
start doing that now are you?" ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/


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Default Hanging doors

In article ,
R D S wrote:
Anyway, our house was built 100 years ago and apparently they had no
concern whatsoever for level/square so much planing was needed.


They were almost certainly square when built but settlement over the years
has resulted in them being out of true.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default Hanging doors

R D S wrote:
A wave of pride came over me yesterday, I had hung (hanged?) 3
upstairs doors using our bathroom as a workshop (hardly New Yankee)
and 'er indoors said to me..."That's the most mess you've ever made!"

Anyway, our house was built 100 years ago and apparently they had no
concern whatsoever for level/square so much planing was needed.
All the doors fit and open and close adequately but there isn't a
uniform gap all around between the door and the casing. I had to call
it a day as night was drawng in and I wanted closure. The door sides
are straight but some gaps range from 2-4mm from one corner to
another, I can't decide whether to pull them and plane/sand until
perfect. How anal is it normal to be about this?


If you are really pedantic, you could try taking the architraves off and
packing/easing the frame in or out to get an even gap - but if it 'looks ok'
then is it worth that trouble?

Also, in the other 'plane', when closing one of the doors...
the door is aligned at the hinge end but at the handle end the door
connects at the bottom but there is a 5mm gap at the top, the casing
must be twisted.


Again, you could sort that out using the above method - or you could try
moving the hinges in or out in relation to the frame.

I can come to a compromise on this by budging one of the hinges or if
I force closure (with a little bolt at the top) will the door
eventually conform?

Cheers
Rick

PS, when the other half removes the old doors before you start is this
her being helpful or devious, because as we were buying the doors she
was muttering something about my tendancy to 'lose momentum'!


Crafty!

Cash



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Default Hanging doors

tonyjeffs wrote:
On Nov 23, 8:08 pm, R D S wrote:
A wave of pride came over me yesterday, I had hung (hanged?) 3 upstairs
doors using our bathroom as a workshop (hardly New Yankee) and 'er
indoors said to me..."That's the most mess you've ever made!"

Anyway, our house was built 100 years ago and apparently they had no
concern whatsoever for level/square so much planing was needed.
All the doors fit and open and close adequately but there isn't a
uniform gap all around between the door and the casing. I had to call it
a day as night was drawng in and I wanted closure. The door sides are
straight but some gaps range from 2-4mm from one corner to another, I
can't decide whether to pull them and plane/sand until perfect.
How anal is it normal to be about this?

Also, in the other 'plane', when closing one of the doors...
the door is aligned at the hinge end but at the handle end the door
connects at the bottom but there is a 5mm gap at the top, the casing
must be twisted.
I can come to a compromise on this by budging one of the hinges or if I
force closure (with a little bolt at the top) will the door eventually
conform?

Cheers
Rick

PS, when the other half removes the old doors before you start is this
her being helpful or devious, because as we were buying the doors she
was muttering something about my tendancy to 'lose momentum'!



Our front door frame has a slight twist like yours, but 12mm. Putting
a bolt on it for 15 years didn't cause it to conform without the bolt.
You could soak the door for a few days, then clamp it,
overcompensating for the twist, and it might work.


That's what I was thinking about but I shan't bother if it isn't likely
to work.

But me, i'd settle for the bolt and leave it at tht. Ant I wouldn't
worry about 2-4 mm variationc in gaps.


Good, as long as mine aren't worse than everybody elses then i'll leave be.
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