I need to rip several 27mm x 1800mm x 606mm solid beech block worktops
fairly accurately to about 275mm wide, and have been offered the
above, new, without saw. I have a 1500W Bosch c/saw and am exploring
'will it fit'?

I'll also need to cross-cut those lengths from 1800mm to about 1730mm,
and I have a decent sliding mitre saw that might well do that......

I'm also wondering whether I couldn't save some money by using an long
aluminium edge-guide....

What does the experienced team think about a) the ripping task and b)
the c/cutting?

bilbo*baggins wrote:
I need to rip several 27mm x 1800mm x 606mm solid beech block worktops
fairly accurately to about 275mm wide, and have been offered the
above, new, without saw. I have a 1500W Bosch c/saw and am exploring
'will it fit'?

I'll also need to cross-cut those lengths from 1800mm to about 1730mm,
and I have a decent sliding mitre saw that might well do that......

I'm also wondering whether I couldn't save some money by using an long
aluminium edge-guide....

What does the experienced team think about a) the ripping task and b)
the c/cutting?

You could do both extremely accurately with a sawboard & your Bosch saw;
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard

These things are absolutely the puppy's parts, dead accurate, easy to use &
dirt cheap to make up.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

bilbo*baggins wrote:
I need to rip several 27mm x 1800mm x 606mm solid beech block worktops
fairly accurately to about 275mm wide, and have been offered the
above, new, without saw. I have a 1500W Bosch c/saw and am exploring
'will it fit'?

I'll also need to cross-cut those lengths from 1800mm to about 1730mm,
and I have a decent sliding mitre saw that might well do that......

I'm also wondering whether I couldn't save some money by using an long
aluminium edge-guide....

What does the experienced team think about a) the ripping task and b)
the c/cutting?

To answer your question - "will it fit", dunno - can't find a 1500w
model - even on Bosch's own website. There's a 1200w, 1600w, 2200w and
1050W (GKS 55, 65, 85, 160 respectively) - maybe an older, discontinued
model? I can't find details of the TCA100, but similar saw tables from
Titon do support a wide range of circular saws, so it's a reasonable
guess that it probably would fit. I maxxed out after 30 minutes of
searching the Internet(what else to do early on a Sunday morning).


I think you'll find cutting the worktop laid (possibly with a
sacrificial wooden spacer - e.g. 12mm mdf) on the floor and the cutting
depth of the circular saw adjusted accordingly, against a straight-edge
laid across each dimension and clamped in place a hell of a lot easier
than manouvering a worktop on top of a table saw - you're then
moving/controlling only the circular saw, not the 30kg (or whatever) of
worktop. I guess this is the option you refer to with a "long aluminium
edge-guide" - in which case that option gets my vote.

My only concern would be for the quality of the finished cut, if indeed
that's important for your application. It's almost certain that a pass
over with a router would produce a better (cleaner) finish than that
achievable with a circular saw, whether held in a table or not.

(for reference, this last couple of weeks, as weather and light
permitted, I've been doing pretty much the same with oak table-tops, and
the hand-held circular saw wins hands-down - although I did cross-cut
one 1800x60x25 just to rough-finish to size one top simply because I cba
removing the circular saw from the table, when I would need it again a
few minutes later - a shortcut that I did question mid-cut with the
weight of the worktop)

bilbo*baggins wrote:
I need to rip several 27mm x 1800mm x 606mm solid beech block worktops
fairly accurately to about 275mm wide, and have been offered the
above, new, without saw. I have a 1500W Bosch c/saw and am exploring
'will it fit'?

I'll also need to cross-cut those lengths from 1800mm to about 1730mm,
and I have a decent sliding mitre saw that might well do that......

I'm also wondering whether I couldn't save some money by using an long
aluminium edge-guide....

What does the experienced team think about a) the ripping task and b)
the c/cutting?

Easy to rip 606 to 275 with a circ saw and straightedge, but it needs a
bit of planning, especially if you're working alone. Main thing is to
make sure the "offcut" piece is supported after the cut. I use small
nested plastic storage bins as supports (probably 8 in this case).

But "several" you say? I'd speak nicely to your local timber yard. 1800
is not that long to transport

I'm not familiar with the table saw you mention, but my experience of
table saws is "the biggest saws make for the easiest jobs"

Small ones are less stable, particularly with large timbers.

Also they're less good at handling wide boards unless they're panel
saws, or you have a suitable extended table.

That's not to say the one you mention may not be good for ripping
other long timbers, or that you couldn't build suitable infeed and
outfeed tables for it.

But just looking at this one task, clamp down an edge to follow, and
use your handheld CS.

At a guess, you may be using the cut worktops as shelving? So the cut
edges can face the wall? AIUI sometimes cutting *some* solid wood
worktops can expose some not so great internal construction.

On 8 Nov, 20:05, "bilbo*baggins" wrote:
I need to rip several 27mm x 1800mm x 606mm solid beech block worktops
fairly accurately to about 275mm wide, and have been offered the
above, new, without saw. *I have a 1500W Bosch c/saw and am exploring
'will it fit'?

I'll also need to cross-cut those lengths from 1800mm to about 1730mm,
and I have a decent sliding mitre saw that might well do that......

I'm also wondering whether I couldn't save some money by using an long
aluminium edge-guide....

What does the experienced team think about a) the ripping task and b)
the c/cutting?

Thanks for the guidance, chasps!

I'll leave the 'table saw' plan for another day, and get myself a
suitable guide for my handheld circular saw. The 'sawboard' idea, and
its derivatives, seems particularly relevant.

Here's some more detail, FWIW. I've opened up a 'window' through a one-
time external wall into a semi-loft space created by the roof of my
single storey extension. The resultant opening - 177cm x 80cm x 28cm
needs a door frame, then a pair of partly-glazed doors. Now, I've
struggled to find a wood supplier who'd prepare the 28cm wide frame,
and one made a proper mess of some American oak boards, so I was
intrigued to spot - in my nearby IKEA store - a stack of deeply-
discounted 180cm x 60cm x 27mm beech-block worktops, and 'ad me four
at £15 each

I plan to use the stuff as door frame boards. If that's successful,
I'll have a go at making up the doors from the same material, so I'll
want a c/saw guide that can also guide my router ( for a finer
finish ). I'm now looking at Axminster Tools' offerings, but I can
certainly make up a decent 'sawboard' as suggested during next week
and have a ripping time.

bilbo*baggins wrote:
SNIP

Thanks for the guidance, chasps!

I'll leave the 'table saw' plan for another day, and get myself a
suitable guide for my handheld circular saw. The 'sawboard' idea, and
its derivatives, seems particularly relevant.

Here's some more detail, FWIW. I've opened up a 'window' through a
one- time external wall into a semi-loft space created by the roof of
my single storey extension. The resultant opening - 177cm x 80cm x
28cm needs a door frame, then a pair of partly-glazed doors. Now, I've
struggled to find a wood supplier who'd prepare the 28cm wide frame,
and one made a proper mess of some American oak boards, so I was
intrigued to spot - in my nearby IKEA store - a stack of deeply-
discounted 180cm x 60cm x 27mm beech-block worktops, and 'ad me four
at £15 each

I plan to use the stuff as door frame boards. If that's successful,
I'll have a go at making up the doors from the same material, so I'll
want a c/saw guide that can also guide my router ( for a finer
finish ). I'm now looking at Axminster Tools' offerings, but I can
certainly make up a decent 'sawboard' as suggested during next week
and have a ripping time.

You will find a sawboard is actually much better & easier to use than many
purpose built guides on the market. You can make them for routers as well.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 9 Nov, 16:56, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
bilbo*baggins wrote:

SNIP





Thanks for the guidance, chasps!

I'll leave the 'table saw' plan for another day, and get myself a
suitable guide for my handheld circular saw. *The 'sawboard' idea, and
its derivatives, seems particularly relevant.

Here's some more detail, FWIW. I've opened up a 'window' through a
one- time external wall into a semi-loft space created by the roof of
my single storey extension. The resultant opening - 177cm x 80cm x
28cm needs a door frame, then a pair of partly-glazed doors. Now, I've
struggled to find a wood supplier who'd prepare the 28cm wide frame,
and one made a proper mess of some American oak boards, so I was
intrigued to spot - in my nearby IKEA store - a stack of deeply-
discounted 180cm x 60cm x 27mm beech-block worktops, and 'ad me four
at £15 each

I plan to use the stuff as door frame boards. *If that's successful,
I'll have a go at making up the doors from the same material, so I'll
want a c/saw guide that can also guide my router ( for a finer
finish ). I'm now looking at Axminster Tools' offerings, but I can
certainly make up a decent 'sawboard' as suggested during next week
and have a ripping time.

You will find a sawboard is actually much better & easier to use than many
purpose built guides on the market. *You can make them for routers as well.

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Right, Dave. Thanks again.

I'll do that first, and if it works well for me, I'll do it last......

BTW, I've just had a look at your website. I'm impressed! .....If
only you had a branch over this way ( West Wilts ), I wouldn't need to
be learning a little about a lot of other people's trades.

I quip about standing in the Monday-morning queue at my local Travis
Perkins, listening to all the trades-types around me complaining about
the lack of work. When I jump up and down, calling "Me, sir! Me,
sir...!" 'cos I need some plumbing or Part-P 'lecky stuff done
properly, I get wholly ignored while they chunter on about their
fourth Spanish golfing holiday this year...... Then there are the
guys who come, agree they want to do the job, then say "I can't start
until the first week of next month". So you wait, and wait, and
wait.....

I'm all for good working relationships with the trade professionals -
but it isn't very often reciprocated. Let's hear it for the
professionals who behave professionally!