In message , The Medway
Handyman writes
If you want two bits to really "pull in" then either drill a clearance
hole on the top one, or just self countersink *deep* into the top with
plenty of brute force and ignorance.

I've found that if the pieces don't pull together, backing out the Turbogold
& screwing it in again works a treat.

Don't try that with stainless....... they break!

regards



--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , The Medway
Handyman writes
If you want two bits to really "pull in" then either drill a clearance
hole on the top one, or just self countersink *deep* into the top with
plenty of brute force and ignorance.

I've found that if the pieces don't pull together, backing out the
Turbogold
& screwing it in again works a treat.

Don't try that with stainless....... they break!

regards



Something very funny going on. At least two of you have said something
about stainless (at least Turbo Ultra) breaking/failing.

I don't think a single one I have used has been a problem - except a
couple of graunched heads which were probably entirely my fault. (I had
more problem with slotted s/s screws I bought which had lousily formed
slots and a few did break.) Maybe it is certain sizes? Or luck of the
draw? I have used both mini Mak impact driver and main drill to screw
them, and have certainly done them up very tightly. (Goodbye head as it
disappears... :-) )

--
Rod

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"Rod" wrote in message
...
Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , The Medway
Handyman writes
If you want two bits to really "pull in" then either drill a clearance
hole on the top one, or just self countersink *deep* into the top with
plenty of brute force and ignorance.

I've found that if the pieces don't pull together, backing out the
Turbogold
& screwing it in again works a treat.

Don't try that with stainless....... they break!

regards



Something very funny going on. At least two of you have said something
about stainless (at least Turbo Ultra) breaking/failing.

I don't think a single one I have used has been a problem - except a
couple of graunched heads which were probably entirely my fault. (I had
more problem with slotted s/s screws I bought which had lousily formed
slots and a few did break.) Maybe it is certain sizes? Or luck of the
draw? I have used both mini Mak impact driver and main drill to screw
them, and have certainly done them up very tightly. (Goodbye head as it
disappears... :-) )

I have snapped the head off some 6 x 100 in the past.

They also bend.

In message , Rod
writes
I've found that if the pieces don't pull together, backing out the
Turbogold
& screwing it in again works a treat.
Don't try that with stainless....... they break!
regards



Something very funny going on. At least two of you have said something
about stainless (at least Turbo Ultra) breaking/failing.

They do. 6.0x100 in Oak framing. Even with a pilot hole.

OK forward but they don't do backwards.

regards
--
Tim Lamb

I bought a trade case of turboultra on an introductory offer. I now
use the small ones for trims (for which they're great), and the rest
for temporary work where broken fasteners in timber don't matter (as
it's all destined for the woodburner).