i'm living in a dormer bungalow, built about 1947, semi detatched, cavity
outer walls of brick outer, breeze block inner, single brick inner walls
between rooms i believe,

the dormer conversion was done in the 70's i believe, they laid what look
like 6 x 2s across the existing celing joists, running at right angles to
the joists, not measured them, and i'm guessing from what i remember seeing.
i've only had a bit of the floor up in the middle, so dunno how the beams
are connected at the ends, if they even need to be.

In the room im talking about, the floor is 15mm chipboard, with those green
interlocking boards laid ontop, it basicaly runs the entire width of the
bungalow for mostly the back half of the building, is an L shape at the very
end,

Below the room is the dining and living rooms, they were two rooms, but have
been knocked into 1, lintel accross the gap and all that, where the L shaped
bit is the bathroom and hallway is below, so more brick walls below the
floor.

Reason i'm asking all this, the upstairs room in question is my games room,
at the moment i have a pinball machine that weighs 145 kilo's, and 4 fruit
machines/one armed bandits weighing from 50 to 120 kilo's each,

i'm planning to add more as i find the cheap non working machines and fix
them up, including one of those candy cranes if i can find one cheap enough,
a video arcade machine and a single player 2p pusher, but i dont want to get
my games room as i like it then have the floor collapse as i've put more
weight up there than was designed.

On Oct 8, 7:38*am, "gazz" wrote:

the dormer conversion was done in the 70's i believe, they laid what look
like 6 x 2s across the existing celing joists, running at right angles to
the joists, not measured them, and i'm guessing from what i remember seeing.
i've only had a bit of the floor up in the middle, so dunno how the beams
are connected at the ends, if they even need to be.

I'm sure others will be along shortly with expert advice but I'd
comment that the 6x2 joists do need to be properly supported at both
ends by appropriate walls. Also are they really laid on top of the
ceiling joists or is there a small gap between them? The joists should
be arranged so that they transfer the entire load of the floor
directly into the supporting walls and they should be physically
separate from the existing ceiling joists.

--
Nige Danton

On Oct 8, 1:38*am, "gazz" wrote:
i'm living in a dormer bungalow, built about 1947, semi detatched, cavity
outer walls of brick outer, breeze block inner, single brick inner walls
between rooms i believe,

the dormer conversion was done in the 70's i believe, they laid what look
like 6 x 2s across the existing celing joists, running at right angles to
the joists, not measured them, and i'm guessing from what i remember seeing.
i've only had a bit of the floor up in the middle, so dunno how the beams
are connected at the ends, if they even need to be.

In the room im talking about, the floor is 15mm chipboard, with those green
interlocking boards laid ontop, it basicaly runs the entire width of the
bungalow for mostly the back half of the building, is an L shape at the very
end,

Below the room is the dining and living rooms, they were two rooms, but have
been knocked into 1, lintel accross the gap and all that, where the L shaped
bit is the bathroom and hallway is below, so more brick walls below the
floor.

Reason i'm asking all this, the upstairs room in question is my games room,
at the moment i have a pinball machine that weighs 145 kilo's, and 4 fruit
machines/one armed bandits weighing from 50 to 120 kilo's each,

i'm planning to add more as i find the cheap non working machines and fix
them up, including one of those candy cranes if i can find one cheap enough,
a video arcade machine and a single player 2p pusher, but i dont want to get
my games room as i like it then have the floor collapse as i've put more
weight up there than was designed.

it depends on too many details.


NT

wrote in message
...


Reason i'm asking all this, the upstairs room in question is my games
room,
at the moment i have a pinball machine that weighs 145 kilo's, and 4 fruit
machines/one armed bandits weighing from 50 to 120 kilo's each,

i'm planning to add more as i find the cheap non working machines and fix
them up, including one of those candy cranes if i can find one cheap
enough,
a video arcade machine and a single player 2p pusher, but i dont want to
get
my games room as i like it then have the floor collapse as i've put more
weight up there than was designed.

it depends on too many details.

--------

ok then, anyone know what weight a standard 2 floored house's upper floor
should take? i know there are some right hippo's about nowadays, and i
gather some of them actually fit up the stairs, so if the floors can take
their weight im sure my machines should be fine

Been looking closer at the layout of the downstairs walls too, right where
the pinball machine lives are 3 brick walls, 2 going accross roughly where
the legs sit,

where the fruit machines sit theres another wall, then about 10 - 12 foot to
the outer wall, the machines sit closer to the inner wall due to the sloping
of the celing there, just to the left of the machines that are there at the
moment is the opened up bit between the living and dining room, with an rsj
and supporting pillars, one more machine and that will be sitting right over
the rsj.

So the fruit machines are in a sort of little 10-12 foot square supported on
3 sides by walls, and the 4th side by the rsj below,

On Oct 9, 2:05*am, "gazz" wrote:
wrote in message

...



Reason i'm asking all this, the upstairs room in question is my games
room,
at the moment i have a pinball machine that weighs 145 kilo's, and 4 fruit
machines/one armed bandits weighing from 50 to 120 kilo's each,

i'm planning to add more as i find the cheap non working machines and fix
them up, including one of those candy cranes if i can find one cheap
enough,
a video arcade machine and a single player 2p pusher, but i dont want to
get
my games room as i like it then have the floor collapse as i've put more
weight up there than was designed.

it depends on too many details.

--------

ok then, anyone know what weight a standard 2 floored house's upper floor
should take? *i know there are some right hippo's about nowadays, and i
gather some of them actually fit up the stairs, so if the floors can take
their weight im sure my machines should be fine

Been looking closer at the layout of the downstairs walls too, right where
the pinball machine lives are 3 brick walls, 2 going accross roughly where
the legs sit,

where the fruit machines sit theres another wall, then about 10 - 12 foot to
the outer wall, the machines sit closer to the inner wall due to the sloping
of the celing there, just to the left of the machines that are there at the
moment is the opened up bit between the living and dining room, with an rsj
and supporting pillars, one more machine and that will be sitting right over
the rsj.

So the fruit machines are in a sort of little 10-12 foot square supported on
3 sides by walls, and the 4th side by the rsj below,

It depends on the timber floor structure and how its supported


NT