OK - I know this is an frequently asked question, I have read previous
posts but mine is more specific.

We have a concrete floor, it was laid 6 months ago, I intend to get a
moisture detector and test that it is dry.

I am going to buy some Oak floor (solid wood).

Now what membrane should I put between the concrete and the wood. The
wood floor company is trying to flog me Mapeproof ESM which is a kind
of 2 part resin, the problem is that it is very pricey, over £400 for
the 40m2 that I have to cover. Also it sounds like a nightmare to put
down.

So I am considering some kind of polythene sheeting followed by
underlay with peel and stick glue patches.

Sound OK?

Any advice on this would be great.

Cheers,

Chris

"KiTT" wrote in message
...
OK - I know this is an frequently asked question, I have read previous
posts but mine is more specific.

We have a concrete floor, it was laid 6 months ago, I intend to get a
moisture detector and test that it is dry.

I am going to buy some Oak floor (solid wood).

Now what membrane should I put between the concrete and the wood. The
wood floor company is trying to flog me Mapeproof ESM which is a kind
of 2 part resin, the problem is that it is very pricey, over £400 for
the 40m2 that I have to cover. Also it sounds like a nightmare to put
down.

So I am considering some kind of polythene sheeting followed by
underlay with peel and stick glue patches.

Sound OK?

Any advice on this would be great.

So lemme get this right....

You are *almost* sticking a quality product to a moving substrate with glue
patches.

Send the video to You've been framed when you fall arse over tit as the
floor moves

RW coughed up some electrons that declared:


"KiTT" wrote in message
...
OK - I know this is an frequently asked question, I have read previous
posts but mine is more specific.

We have a concrete floor, it was laid 6 months ago, I intend to get a
moisture detector and test that it is dry.

I am going to buy some Oak floor (solid wood).

Now what membrane should I put between the concrete and the wood. The
wood floor company is trying to flog me Mapeproof ESM which is a kind
of 2 part resin, the problem is that it is very pricey, over £400 for
the 40m2 that I have to cover. Also it sounds like a nightmare to put
down.

So I am considering some kind of polythene sheeting followed by
underlay with peel and stick glue patches.

Sound OK?

Any advice on this would be great.

So lemme get this right....

You are *almost* sticking a quality product to a moving substrate with
glue patches.

Send the video to You've been framed when you fall arse over tit as the
floor moves

Might want to fix your newsreader's quoting - I can't tell who said what...

KiTT wrote:
OK - I know this is an frequently asked question, I have read previous
posts but mine is more specific.

We have a concrete floor, it was laid 6 months ago, I intend to get a
moisture detector and test that it is dry.

I am going to buy some Oak floor (solid wood).

Now what membrane should I put between the concrete and the wood. The
wood floor company is trying to flog me Mapeproof ESM which is a kind
of 2 part resin, the problem is that it is very pricey, over £400 for
the 40m2 that I have to cover. Also it sounds like a nightmare to put
down.

So I am considering some kind of polythene sheeting followed by
underlay with peel and stick glue patches.

Sound OK?

Any advice on this would be great.

Cheers,

Chris

Not a good idea Chris to put a wood floor down directly onto polythene
sheeting - if there's a DPM already under the concrete (and there should
be), then that will be sufficient to stop any rising damp.

If you intend sticking the oak directly to the concrete, then use a
proprietary floor adhesive to do the job - if this is a parquet type floor,
then use hot bitument to stick the pieces down (the old method).

Tanner-'op

On 7 Oct, 22:10, "Tanner-'op" wrote:

Not a good idea Chris to put a wood floor down directly onto polythene
sheeting - if there's a DPM already under the concrete (and there should
be), then that will be sufficient to stop any rising damp.

If you intend sticking the oak directly to the concrete, then use a
proprietary floor adhesive to do the job - if this is a parquet type floor,
then use hot bitument to stick the pieces down (the old method).

Tanner-'op

Yes - that is a good point, it is a new floor with a DPM so I guess
sealing it with another membrane would be overkill.

But I am still a little confused. What about underlay? Are you
saying I shouldn't bother, just glue straight onto the concrete.

Cheers,

Chris

On Oct 8, 9:48 am, KiTT wrote:
On 7 Oct, 22:10, "Tanner-'op" wrote:



Not a good idea Chris to put a wood floor down directly onto polythene
sheeting - if there's a DPM already under the concrete (and there should
be), then that will be sufficient to stop any rising damp.

If you intend sticking the oak directly to the concrete, then use a
proprietary floor adhesive to do the job - if this is a parquet type floor,
then use hot bitument to stick the pieces down (the old method).

Tanner-'op

Yes - that is a good point, it is a new floor with a DPM so I guess
sealing it with another membrane would be overkill.

But I am still a little confused. What about underlay? Are you
saying I shouldn't bother, just glue straight onto the concrete.

Are you sure you want the floor glued to the concrete? The problem is
that the wood is going to change size by several percent between
summer and winter. The forces generated when the glue tries to resist
that, will just tear the glue. Better to let the floor float, and
expand into the expansion gap under the skirting board.

KiTT wrote:
On 7 Oct, 22:10, "Tanner-'op" wrote:

Not a good idea Chris to put a wood floor down directly onto
polythene sheeting - if there's a DPM already under the concrete
(and there should be), then that will be sufficient to stop any
rising damp.

If you intend sticking the oak directly to the concrete, then use a
proprietary floor adhesive to do the job - if this is a parquet type
floor, then use hot bitument to stick the pieces down (the old
method).

Tanner-'op

Yes - that is a good point, it is a new floor with a DPM so I guess
sealing it with another membrane would be overkill.

But I am still a little confused. What about underlay? Are you
saying I shouldn't bother, just glue straight onto the concrete.

Cheers,

Chris

Chris,

Could I ask what type of 'wood' floor you're intending to lay?

If it's the modern day, manufactured thin laminate floor, then I would
suggest that you use the proprietary laying method as specified my the
makers of the stuff as this is usually laid 'loose'.

If it's a truly 'real' hardwood floor (parquet blocks etc) then it's
perfectly feasible to 'stick' these down to a dry, concrete surface - or, if
its tongued and grooved 'real' hardwood floor, then it's usual to 'sink'
timber grounds into the concrete (or screed) at the relevant spacings and
nail the floor to this.

Tanner-'op

On Oct 7, 7:21*pm, "RW" wrote:

You are *almost* sticking a quality product to a moving substrate with glue
patches.

Send the video to You've been framed when you fall arse over tit as the
floor moves

The walls tend to hold it in place, apart from a small expansion gap.
Why do you think it's going to move?

MBQ