going to re-tile around bath, so all one wall and part of the 2 side
walls.

do i need anything more than the tiles, grout/adhesive, cutter and
spacers?

any tips on planning or 'setting out' ?

benpost wrote:
going to re-tile around bath, so all one wall and part of the 2 side
walls.

do i need anything more than the tiles, grout/adhesive, cutter and
spacers?

any tips on planning or 'setting out' ?
setting out
just plan where you want the cuts if the wall is not a multiple length
of the tiles you are going to use,I personally work from the centre of
the wall and either place the middle of the tile over the half way mark
or up against the mark depending on the spacing so you dont end up with
1/2 wide tile at the ends
and the other thing to check if the bath is level if not you might need
to either level it out or start just less than one row above the bath
and nail a baton to the wall temporarily and when the tiles have set
enough remove the baton and cut the bottom row to fit the bath

but that's me and not had any complaints from er indoors "yet"
--
Kevin R
Reply address works

benpost wrote:
going to re-tile around bath, so all one wall and part of the 2 side
walls.

do i need anything more than the tiles, grout/adhesive, cutter and
spacers?

any tips on planning or 'setting out' ?

Just draw it out on paper. Have equal sizes at opposing edges if
possible, and avoid having to cut small sizes.
It's usual to have a line of full tiles along the bath edge, but check
that it's level.

thanks, do i need any bits of wood or nails to use as guides or is it
not necessary?

benpost wrote:
thanks, do i need any bits of wood or nails to use as guides or is it
not necessary?


Usually just the nails are enough to support a tile from underneath. Use
a batten if there's a whole line of them (e.g. if your bath isn't 100%
level, and the bottom line is going to vary in height).

"benpost" wrote in message
...
going to re-tile around bath, so all one wall and part of the 2 side
walls.

do i need anything more than the tiles, grout/adhesive, cutter and
spacers?

any tips on planning or 'setting out' ?

Is there a shower above the bath? If so, make sure you 'tank' the area
before tiling to ensure a 100% waterproof barrier

Slider wrote:
"benpost" wrote in message
...
going to re-tile around bath, so all one wall and part of the 2 side
walls.

do i need anything more than the tiles, grout/adhesive, cutter and
spacers?

any tips on planning or 'setting out' ?

Is there a shower above the bath? If so, make sure you 'tank' the area
before tiling to ensure a 100% waterproof barrier



I wouldn't bother. The only vulnerable spot would be the bath rim, and
one assumes that is under the tile edges

In article ,
stuart noble writes:
Slider wrote:
"benpost" wrote in message
...
going to re-tile around bath, so all one wall and part of the 2 side
walls.

do i need anything more than the tiles, grout/adhesive, cutter and
spacers?

any tips on planning or 'setting out' ?

Is there a shower above the bath? If so, make sure you 'tank' the area
before tiling to ensure a 100% waterproof barrier

I wouldn't bother. The only vulnerable spot would be the bath rim, and
one assumes that is under the tile edges

I bought a flexible waterproofer additive for the grout,
BAL Admix GT1, IIRC. It was expensive, but a little goes
a long way.

There were two reasons. The shower mixer is recessed into
the 9" brick wall with a 1' square piece of plasterboard
around it which I didn't want to get soggy. If I had a
full plasterboard wall, I would have considered tanking
it or replacing with aquapanel (cement substitute
plasterboard). Second reason was I thought the waterproofer
might prevent staining of the grout. There is no staining
of the grout some 5 years later, but without a control area,
I can't be sure if the addmix is in any way responsible.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 25/08/2008 15:26 stuart noble wrote:

Usually just the nails are enough to support a tile from underneath.

But do check that you've not got water pipes in the wall where you're
nailing! I had carefully sunk central heating pipes into the wall
between floorboards and radiator to get a neater job and managed to hit
one when tiling. It was towards the end of the job, I was tired, I got
careless...

--
F

hi
what does tanking the area mean?
got a shower above the bath but it has its own supply pipes and doesnt
run off the bath.
back to tiling, yes it will be a row of tiles overlapping the bath
edge, but how do i know what height to start tiling? should i fit the
bath in before tiling to see?
i understand what was posted about not having really small cuts each
side, so start in the middle so u have even cuts each end.
how about vertically? where do you start? should you have a full tile
at the top or bottom, or just start half way up and have a bit cut off
both top and bottom?
cheers guys

"benpost" wrote in message
...
hi
what does tanking the area mean?
got a shower above the bath but it has its own supply pipes and doesnt
run off the bath.
back to tiling, yes it will be a row of tiles overlapping the bath
edge, but how do i know what height to start tiling? should i fit the
bath in before tiling to see?
i understand what was posted about not having really small cuts each
side, so start in the middle so u have even cuts each end.
how about vertically? where do you start? should you have a full tile
at the top or bottom, or just start half way up and have a bit cut off
both top and bottom?
cheers guys

"Tanking" is waterproofing the wall before tiling. I have just re-furbed
our en-suite bathroom. Stripped the room bare and replaced everything. I
tanked the area of the shower enclosure first before tiling. It's just a
safety precaution in-case water ever gets behind the tiles. It 100% ensures
that if water gets behind the tiles it won't get to the plasterboard. When
I removed the old tiles around the shower tray, the plasterboard about 12"
above the tray was gone, was just mush as water had penetrated the grout /
tiles.

See below:-

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/building_a_shower.htm

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 07:36:56 -0700 (PDT), benpost
wrote:

hi
what does tanking the area mean?
got a shower above the bath but it has its own supply pipes and doesnt
run off the bath.
back to tiling, yes it will be a row of tiles overlapping the bath
edge, but how do i know what height to start tiling? should i fit the
bath in before tiling to see?
i understand what was posted about not having really small cuts each
side, so start in the middle so u have even cuts each end.
how about vertically? where do you start? should you have a full tile
at the top or bottom, or just start half way up and have a bit cut off
both top and bottom?
cheers guys


Tiles before bath or bath before tiles has been a long standing
discussion in this ng . When I did my bathroom I tiled before putting
the bath in purely so I wouldn't damage the bath but what I did was
start the tiles exactly one tile + one spacer height above where the
rim of the bath would go ( I did a dry run beforehand to work out what
that would be ) . I then fixed a batten to the wall and tiled up from
that . I then fitted the bath and when it was in situ I fixed the last
row of tiles . I then did a final silicone bead when i'd done all the
grouting with the bath full of water to take the bath down to it's
"filled " level . .

benpost wrote:
hi
what does tanking the area mean?
got a shower above the bath but it has its own supply pipes and doesnt
run off the bath.
back to tiling, yes it will be a row of tiles overlapping the bath
edge, but how do i know what height to start tiling? should i fit the
bath in before tiling to see?

Yes

i understand what was posted about not having really small cuts each
side, so start in the middle so u have even cuts each end.
how about vertically? where do you start? should you have a full tile
at the top or bottom, or just start half way up and have a bit cut off
both top and bottom?

Same principle, but a full tile above the bath is the norm if it doesn't
leave you a small cut somewhere else

hi just in the process of re doing the bathroom now, all is removed
and blanked off except the wc pan. going to box in behind the shower/
bath,(full height) sink and wc (half height) so the pipes are hidden
and bath fits nicely at the other end. then tile on top of the boxing
to create a shelf. have bought aquapanel for the boxing where the
shower is.

main wall along bath and opposite to shower are solid block, was just
going to re tile on top of this. currently have removed all old tiles
and scraped off loose bits. not sure what to do next the options seem
to be:

- keep chipping off the old adhesive and get back to old plaster -
this is getting harder as its not loose anymore but will chip off if
you scrape hard, although this means digging in to the plaster
underneath, which i dont like

- get plasterer in to skim over the area (after i dilute pva it) and
have a nice surface to tile to

- get aquapanel for the other walls (even though they are block ? )
and tile on top of this

what do you think it the best solution.? I havent tiled before so not
sure what kind of uneveness you can get away with before spreading the
tile adhesive.

heres some pics so you know what i'm talking about!:

bathroom back wall, bath to run along this, boxing will be on the left
where the pipes a

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=14niuww&s=4

sandy area under old plaster - definitely needs some pva to seal it,
very crumbly.. level these areas up with a skim of tile adhesive after
pva'ing?:

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2i1zgy9&s=4

old adhesive stuck to old plaster - hard to chip off:

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=3151nk7&s=4

but possible with scraper and hard work.. and scraping into the old
plaster..

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=a5dkjr&s=4

appreciate replies

benpost wrote:
hi just in the process of re doing the bathroom now, all is removed
and blanked off except the wc pan. going to box in behind the shower/
bath,(full height) sink and wc (half height) so the pipes are hidden
and bath fits nicely at the other end. then tile on top of the boxing
to create a shelf. have bought aquapanel for the boxing where the
shower is.



main wall along bath and opposite to shower are solid block, was just
going to re tile on top of this. currently have removed all old tiles
and scraped off loose bits. not sure what to do next the options seem
to be:

- keep chipping off the old adhesive and get back to old plaster -
this is getting harder as its not loose anymore but will chip off if
you scrape hard, although this means digging in to the plaster
underneath, which i dont like

- get plasterer in to skim over the area (after i dilute pva it) and
have a nice surface to tile to

- get aquapanel for the other walls (even though they are block ? )
and tile on top of this

what do you think it the best solution.? I havent tiled before so not
sure what kind of uneveness you can get away with before spreading the
tile adhesive.

Check it out with a length of timber. You'll soon see how even the wall
is. Consider that the gaps where the wood doesn't sit flat against the
wall will eventually be occupied, either by plaster or tile adhesive,
and the latter option can get expensive.
It really isn't that difficult to level the walls yourself because the
finish isn't important. You're only filling obvious gaps approximately

hi stuart,
when you say level the walls yourself do you mean carry on scraping it
back to plaster, or diy the plastering? if so what will i need..
cheers

benpost wrote:
hi stuart,
when you say level the walls yourself do you mean carry on scraping it
back to plaster, or diy the plastering? if so what will i need..
cheers

I wouldn't carry on scraping because you may not need to, but you won't
know till you get a straightedge on it. Take a length of 2" x 1" timber
(7 foot should be enough). Tape a spirit level to it and hold it upright
against the wall at intervals. Either there will be humps to chop out,
or dips that need filling. You can do this with an undercoat or bonding
plaster mixed with a dash of PVA, the idea being that you put a dollop
on the wall and gradually slide the wood over it till it's level. Repeat
this at the same height on the wall at, say, 18" intervals. Then try the
wood horizontally, resting on the dollops. Gradually you get an idea of
where and by how much the wall is out and, once the dollops have firmed
up a bit you can fill the in between bits using the wood as before. If
you find you're faffing about with 5mm gaps, I'd just call it level and
get on with the tiling :-)

benpost wrote:
hi stuart,
when you say level the walls yourself do you mean carry on scraping it
back to plaster, or diy the plastering? if so what will i need..
cheers

I've just remembered a technique I once used to get a wall perfectly
level when my plastering skills were even less than they are now.
Screw battens to the wall at 18" intervals and smear the backs with
vaseline or washing up liquid. Oversize the screw holes so that the
battens can be moved in and out easily and use a length of timber to get
them level, packing out as necessary. Then you just fill the gaps
between the wall and the battens (filler is better than plaster for
this). Remove the battens after a few hours and you have a series of
full length guides, and then it's easy to level up the rest. A bit time
consuming, but not difficult.

On 25 Aug, 13:00, benpost wrote:
going to re-tile around bath, so all one wall and part of the 2 side
walls.

do i need anything more than the tiles, grout/adhesive, cutter and
spacers?

any tips on planning or 'setting out' ?

Do you have any water pipes etc coming through the wall that you need
to tile around?
If so - you might want to give consideration to these when setting out
- you might find it a lot easier to nibble a corner off a tile that
you would to drill a hold large enough for a pipe to fit through.

Mark.

stuart noble wrote:
benpost wrote:
hi stuart,
when you say level the walls yourself do you mean carry on scraping it
back to plaster, or diy the plastering? if so what will i need..
cheers

I've just remembered a technique I once used to get a wall perfectly
level when my plastering skills were even less than they are now.
Screw battens to the wall at 18" intervals and smear the backs with
vaseline or washing up liquid. Oversize the screw holes so that the
battens can be moved in and out easily and use a length of timber to get
them level, packing out as necessary. Then you just fill the gaps
between the wall and the battens (filler is better than plaster for
this). Remove the battens after a few hours and you have a series of
full length guides, and then it's easy to level up the rest. A bit time
consuming, but not difficult.
good grief. If its that much an issue, simply screw 1/4" MDF onto the
wall..thats will ride over the hollows. Or use no more nails or something.