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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Bathroom tiling..
I know this has been covered before..(dohhh..)
I have to do a full retile of a bathroom. I know that many will say fit the bath then tile but this is a smallish room and i feel the bath would get in the way. Also for full tiling jobs i think its probably better to mark the line of the bath,fit a batten just above that line,do the tiling so ensuring that it is nice and level,fit bath,tile down to infill to edge of bath. If you just fit the bath and make it level then use the edge of the bath as a level datum,i think this could be asking for trouble. Inevitably modern baths may "give" a fe mill;s and also,its difficult to get them perfectly level. Not like the old cast iron days where it stayed where it was put. Any minor inaccuracies would be magnified over a full tiling job,corners of tiles would start to not meet square on/point to point and the finished job would not be so good. Even on a half tile job round the bath,this can become apparent. Any thoughts? joe |
#2
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"tarquinlinbin" wrote in message ... I know this has been covered before..(dohhh..) I have to do a full retile of a bathroom. I know that many will say fit the bath then tile but this is a smallish room and i feel the bath would get in the way. Also for full tiling jobs i think its probably better to mark the line of the bath,fit a batten just above that line,do the tiling so ensuring that it is nice and level,fit bath,tile down to infill to edge of bath. If you just fit the bath and make it level then use the edge of the bath as a level datum,i think this could be asking for trouble. Inevitably modern baths may "give" a fe mill;s and also,its difficult to get them perfectly level. Not like the old cast iron days where it stayed where it was put. Any minor inaccuracies would be magnified over a full tiling job,corners of tiles would start to not meet square on/point to point and the finished job would not be so good. Even on a half tile job round the bath,this can become apparent. Any thoughts? joe If your going to do it that way, leave at least half a tile above the bath. |
#3
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tarquinlinbin wrote: I know this has been covered before..(dohhh..) I have to do a full retile of a bathroom. I know that many will say fit the bath then tile but this is a smallish room and i feel the bath would get in the way. Fit the bath first, don't f**k about !! I measured and tiled to where I thought the bath would go, and I had a right game fitting it in. I ended up having to even off the tiles with an angle grinder and jacking up the bath on marine plywood ! Never again .. Also for full tiling jobs i think its probably better to mark the line of the bath,fit a batten just above that line,do the tiling so ensuring that it is nice and level,fit bath,tile down to infill to edge of bath. If you just fit the bath and make it level then use the edge of the bath as a level datum,i think this could be asking for trouble. Well, I fitted a steel bath, so i'm not that well up on plastic, but tiling up form the bath leaving a reasonable gap for mastic would work fine. Inevitably modern baths may "give" a few mill;s and also, its difficult to get them perfectly level. Not like the old cast iron days where it stayed where it was put. It's easy to get them level. Spirit level and adjustable feet .. ! Any minor inaccuracies would be magnified over a full tiling job,corners of tiles would start to not meet square on/point to point and the finished job would not be so good. Even on a half tile job round the bath,this can become apparent. I think you're worrying too much. Leave it out and measure very very carefully, or put it in if feasible and there's space to work. I wish I had put mine in first, YMMV. Regards, Paul. |
#4
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wrote in message ups.com... snip Well, I fitted a steel bath, so i'm not that well up on plastic, but tiling up form the bath leaving a reasonable gap for mastic would work fine. snip last time i did this i got a flexible seal that goes under the 1st row of tiles and allows for a bit of 'flex' - worked ok Regards Jeff |
#5
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tarquinlinbin wrote:
I know this has been covered before..(dohhh..) I have to do a full retile of a bathroom. I know that many will say fit the bath then tile but this is a smallish room and i feel the bath would get in the way. Also for full tiling jobs i think its probably better to mark the line of the bath,fit a batten just above that line,do the tiling so ensuring that it is nice and level,fit bath,tile down to infill to edge of bath. If you just fit the bath and make it level then use the edge of the bath as a level datum,i think this could be asking for trouble. Inevitably modern baths may "give" a fe mill;s and also,its difficult to get them perfectly level. Not like the old cast iron days where it stayed where it was put. Any minor inaccuracies would be magnified over a full tiling job,corners of tiles would start to not meet square on/point to point and the finished job would not be so good. Even on a half tile job round the bath,this can become apparent. Any thoughts? joe I recently done exactly this. I left the bath in place and tiled down to it from a datum line. It worked a treat. Any slight inconsistencies are covered up by your silicon seal anyway. If you mark out your datum properly around the whole room first then you should have no problem with joins/corners meeting etc. |
#6
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In message , tarquinlinbin
writes I know this has been covered before..(dohhh..) I have to do a full retile of a bathroom. I know that many will say fit the bath then tile but this is a smallish room and i feel the bath would get in the way. Also for full tiling jobs i think its probably better to mark the line of the bath,fit a batten just above that line,do the tiling so ensuring that it is nice and level,fit bath,tile down to infill to edge of bath. If you just fit the bath and make it level then use the edge of the bath as a level datum,i think this could be asking for trouble. Inevitably modern baths may "give" a fe mill;s and also,its difficult to get them perfectly level. Not like the old cast iron days where it stayed where it was put. Any minor inaccuracies would be magnified over a full tiling job,corners of tiles would start to not meet square on/point to point and the finished job would not be so good. Even on a half tile job round the bath,this can become apparent. Any thoughts? joe Just done it. Last wall tomorrow. Tiled most of the wall before fitting bath (easier access, less chance of dropping something in the bath, shower valve to fix / tile round). Left about a half tile to the bath. A full tile at bath level looks better, but other factors, such a border heights with respect to windows etc may force a part tile like I did). Note also that most (all?) baths have brackets on the wall side that project above the edge of the bath so they can be screwed to the wall. Thus that bottom row of tiles has to be done after fitting the bath. If you use the plastic tile to bath trim the sits behind the tiles, then be very careful about using it a base to support the tiling operation. The tiles can slip and squash the trim out of alignment. BTDTGTTS. -- steve |
#7
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On Fri, 4 Mar 2005 11:41:53 -0000, "Jeff" wrote:
wrote in message oups.com... snip Well, I fitted a steel bath, so i'm not that well up on plastic, but tiling up form the bath leaving a reasonable gap for mastic would work fine. snip last time i did this i got a flexible seal that goes under the 1st row of tiles and allows for a bit of 'flex' - worked ok Regards Jeff Yes ive seen this stuff but i cant find it in the shops. Can you remember where you got it?? |
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