I need to put some post holders sitting on some standard paving flags,
and will therefore likely be bolting post holders onto the flags.

a) what size bolts would you put in?
b) how would you stop the anchor in the drilled hole from falling in
too far?
c) would you drill all the way through the flag or just deep enough
for the anchor?

Or would you take a completely different course of action?

Thanks!

Matt

wrote:
I need to put some post holders sitting on some standard paving flags,
and will therefore likely be bolting post holders onto the flags.

a) what size bolts would you put in?
b) how would you stop the anchor in the drilled hole from falling in
too far?
c) would you drill all the way through the flag or just deep enough
for the anchor?

Or would you take a completely different course of action?

Use a suitable size Multi Monte
http://www.screwfix.com/cats/101217/Fixings/Multi-Monti

Wonderful things!


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Mathew,

I'm replying through the Medway Handyman as I have filtered all gmail and
hotmail accounts to prevent spamming.

wrote:
I need to put some post holders sitting on some standard paving
flags, and will therefore likely be bolting post holders onto the
flags.

What are the post holders for, i.e to take a fence or some other purpose?

a) what size bolts would you put in?
b) how would you stop the anchor in the drilled hole from falling in
too far?
c) would you drill all the way through the flag or just deep enough
for the anchor?

The normal 'flag' depth is around 11/4" with some pure concrete ones (as
used on public street paving) going up to 2" in depth, so you don't have too
much of a depth for a load bearing fixing.

Or would you take a completely different course of action?

That would depend on what load (wind load usually) that you want it to
carry - could you expand on that?

Tanner-'op

On 7 Jun, 22:28, "Tanner-'op" wrote:
Mathew,

I'm replying through the Medway Handyman as I have filtered all gmail and
hotmail accounts to prevent spamming.

wrote:
I need to put some post holders sitting on some standard paving
flags, and will therefore likely be bolting post holders onto the
flags.

What are the post holders for, i.e to take a fence or some other purpose?

a) what size bolts would you put in?
b) how would you stop the anchor in the drilled hole from falling in
too far?
c) would you drill all the way through the flag or just deep enough
for the anchor?

The normal 'flag' depth is around 11/4" with some pure concrete ones (as
used on public street paving) going up to 2" in depth, so you don't have too
much of a depth for a load bearing fixing.

Or would you take a completely different course of action?

That would depend on what load (wind load usually) that you want it to
carry - could you expand on that?

Tanner-'op

Sorry if you don't see this. I like googlegroups for posting as it
means I can do it on multiple PCs including ones I don't "own".

The purpose is to hold some posts for decking (yes, very 90's, but
SWMBO likes them). There is a small path running around the house so
3 of the 4 posts required along the back of the house need to sit on
the paving flags. I don't want to take up the flags so free-standing
post holders bolted into the flags seems the best way to approach
them. I don't want to bolt a ledger board to the house as there are
drain pipes in the way.

Basically there shouldn't be much (if any) lateral pressures on the
holders to move. In fact, I suppose they could almost be completely
free standing as there will be 13 other posts concreted into the
ground to support the remainder of the frame. But I'd like to secure
them nonetheless as they can then be the reference points for the
remainder of the deck.

Matt

wrote:


The purpose is to hold some posts for decking (yes, very 90's, but
SWMBO likes them). There is a small path running around the house so
3 of the 4 posts required along the back of the house need to sit on
the paving flags. I don't want to take up the flags so free-standing
post holders bolted into the flags seems the best way to approach
them. I don't want to bolt a ledger board to the house as there are
drain pipes in the way.

You can bolt ledger boards to the house wal around the pipes - it doesn't
have to be one continuous board - as long as all boards are level.


Basically there shouldn't be much (if any) lateral pressures on the
holders to move. In fact, I suppose they could almost be completely
free standing as there will be 13 other posts concreted into the
ground to support the remainder of the frame. But I'd like to secure
them nonetheless as they can then be the reference points for the
remainder of the deck.

You really don't need 13 posts in the ground. Just making work. One at each
corner and a ledger board/boards bolted to the house in two locations give
you all you need in terms of square. I've easily got 5m x 5m decks square
to within 5mm on the diagonals this way.

The support posts can stand on 400mm x 400mm (reject grade) concrete slabs
on firm ground or concrete blocks if required.

Decks don't really move laterally very much at all. What you need to ensure
is that they don't move up or down so to speak.

HTH if you need more info. I've built dozens of decks, 5 so far this year.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Sat, 7 Jun 2008 14:38:07 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

snip

The purpose is to hold some posts for decking (yes, very 90's, but
SWMBO likes them).

There's some down in part of our local garden centre, mainly around the
approach to the tea shoppe. Had a *lot* of rain over the last couple of
days (East Anglia) and the stuff is lethal - as the saying goes 'slippery
when wet'. It's been bad enough to make me think I'd never put the stuff
down.

If you can get SWMBO to somewhere where there's some down, try and do so
when it's piddling down. At least you'll be making an informed decision
then!


--
the dot wanderer at tesco dot net

The Wanderer wrote:
On Sat, 7 Jun 2008 14:38:07 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

snip

The purpose is to hold some posts for decking (yes, very 90's, but
SWMBO likes them).

There's some down in part of our local garden centre, mainly around
the approach to the tea shoppe. Had a *lot* of rain over the last
couple of days (East Anglia) and the stuff is lethal - as the saying
goes 'slippery when wet'. It's been bad enough to make me think I'd
never put the stuff down.

We've had bucket loads of rain in the last 8 years and ours has never been
even remotely slippery.

If you can get SWMBO to somewhere where there's some down, try and do
so when it's piddling down. At least you'll be making an informed
decision then!

Depends on the surface of the board, the correct gaps & laying it (like a
patio) to a slight fall.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Sat, 07 Jun 2008 14:08:32 -0700, matthew.larkin wrote:

I need to put some post holders sitting on some standard paving flags,
and will therefore likely be bolting post holders onto the flags.

a) what size bolts would you put in?
b) how would you stop the anchor in the drilled hole from falling in
too far?
c) would you drill all the way through the flag or just deep enough
for the anchor?

Or would you take a completely different course of action?

Thanks!

Matt

==================================
I think you should avoid any kind of expansion fixing as paving slabs
crack quite easily. I would suggest that you consider 'chemical fixings'
like these:

http://tinyurl.com/5a85zm

I haven't tried these myself but I would certainly use them if I needed a
non-expanding fixing for the kind of use you have in mind.

Cic.

--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

On Sun, 08 Jun 2008 07:14:55 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Depends on the surface of the board, the correct gaps & laying it (like
a patio) to a slight fall.

And I should imagine location. Somewhere in full sun won't grow the slippy
algae layer were as under trees or shaded probably will.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jun 2008 07:14:55 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Depends on the surface of the board, the correct gaps & laying it
(like a patio) to a slight fall.

And I should imagine location. Somewhere in full sun won't grow the
slippy algae layer were as under trees or shaded probably will.

Makes sense. Our deck goes green but still isnt slippery.

The wanderer mentioned it was outside the teashop - grease from stacks
possibly?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 2008-06-08 10:40:40 +0100, "The Medway Handyman"
said:



Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jun 2008 07:14:55 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Depends on the surface of the board, the correct gaps & laying it
(like a patio) to a slight fall.

And I should imagine location. Somewhere in full sun won't grow the
slippy algae layer were as under trees or shaded probably will.

Makes sense. Our deck goes green but still isnt slippery.

The wanderer mentioned it was outside the teashop - grease from stacks
possibly?

Stacks of what?

On Sun, 08 Jun 2008 09:40:40 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

And I should imagine location. Somewhere in full sun won't grow the
slippy algae layer were as under trees or shaded probably will.

Makes sense. Our deck goes green but still isnt slippery.

But I assume that your deck has proper decking boards with the deep
grooves at 10 to 15mm spacing and the tops between the grooves also
grooved but only a mm or two. As you said the surface of the boards will
make a big difference as well. Smooth planed is ice rink material...

--
Cheers
Dave.

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2008-06-08 10:40:40 +0100, "The Medway Handyman"
said:



Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jun 2008 07:14:55 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Depends on the surface of the board, the correct gaps & laying it
(like a patio) to a slight fall.

And I should imagine location. Somewhere in full sun won't grow the
slippy algae layer were as under trees or shaded probably will.

Makes sense. Our deck goes green but still isnt slippery.

The wanderer mentioned it was outside the teashop - grease from
stacks possibly?

Stacks of what?

Errm. Stacks of snacks...



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 8 Jun, 00:10, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
wrote:

The purpose is to hold some posts for decking (yes, very 90's, but
SWMBO likes them). *There is a small path running around the house so
3 of the 4 posts required along the back of the house need to sit on
the paving flags. *I don't want to take up the flags so free-standing
post holders bolted into the flags seems the best way to approach
them. *I don't want to bolt a ledger board to the house as there are
drain pipes in the way.

You can bolt ledger boards to the house wal around the pipes - it doesn't
have to be one continuous board - as long as all boards are level.



Basically there shouldn't be much (if any) lateral pressures on the
holders to move. *In fact, I suppose they could almost be completely
free standing as there will be 13 other posts concreted into the
ground to support the remainder of the frame. *But I'd like to secure
them nonetheless as they can then be the reference points for the
remainder of the deck.

You really don't need 13 posts in the ground. *Just making work. One at each
corner and a ledger board/boards bolted to the house in two locations give
you all you need in terms of square. *I've easily got 5m x 5m decks square
to within 5mm on the diagonals this way.

The support posts can stand on 400mm x 400mm (reject grade) concrete slabs
on firm ground or concrete blocks if required.

Decks don't really move laterally very much at all. *What you need to ensure
is that they don't move up or down so to speak.

HTH if you need more info. *I've built dozens of decks, 5 so far this year.

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Dave

Thanks - popped into screwfix for some multi montis - they look the
part!

I understand what you're saying about ledger boards, but I'd still
like to leave something of a gap between the deck and the house, just
so that I've got ready access to the drains more than anything else.

I think I will take on board the comments about the concreted posts
though - 16 in total did feel a lot (4.8m x 4.5m deck, so I was
putting 4 x 4 at maximum 1.6m centres). The last deck I did all the
posts (even the edges) were straight onto blocks bedded firmly down,
and it didn't move an inch. But I'd like to go a little more
permanent with this one, so I still think I'll concrete the four
corners.

Ta!

Matt