Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered on
the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door as
its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown, highly
polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam

Samantha Booth coughed up some electrons that declared:

Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered on
the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door as
its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown, highly
polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam

Watch for pins, nails and staples. Nicked the blade on my planer doing
exactly what you are about to.

Also, work from both ends towards the middle. Classic schoolboy error with
planing, but it was the first use of an electric for me. Somehow I thought
it would be different. It wasn't - knocked a sliver of wood off the corner
on the way out.

I would also mark it up in pencil too, both sides. 15mm is a lot off and
what starts off as a nice 90 deg level base won't be after a few passes,
unless you have something to work too.

I don't make many mistakes, because I usually worry a lot and plan well, but
that job was a total cock up, mostly because I thought it would be easy.

Turned out OK, but I had to fiddle around correcting mistakes I need not
have made.

You might actually be better off using a good hand saw for 15 mm, then a
couple of light passes with the plane to tidy the edge.

Despite it being hollow, as mine were, there's usually a good bit of solid
wood at the bottom IME.

HTH

Cheers

Tim

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Yes, take the planer back and get a (mains powered) circular saw.

Cordless planers are designed for taking off a light pass (1mm or
less), and a little skill is required to produce good results. Trying
to take lots of passes to take off 15mm would be tricky.

Yes the door is probably hollow, but you're trimming off part of the
solid timbers that make up the outer edge of the door and to which the
two thin "faces" of ply either side is attached.

The CC should come with a fence so you can set it to take off 15mm. Or
you can clamp a batten on for the saw to follow. Set the depth to to
just cut right through. Be careful to avoid any screws or nails. Be
highly aware of the blade protruding through the bottom of the cut,
and what it may come in contact with. A CC is a but fierce the first
time you use one, but with very little practice it will produce
consistently good results.

As always, practice with a new tool on some scrap first.

"Samantha Booth" wrote:

Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered on
the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door as
its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown, highly
polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam


I am completely cack handed with an electric plane so I won't offer
you any advice. But I do admire you for trying so many new things
almost at the same time.

I don't think I have ever known one person to be on so many steep
learning curves at once!

Good luck.

Samantha Booth wrote:

Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered on
the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door as
its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown, highly
polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Yes, use a circular saw.
A handsaw will suffice, but will be hard work, take a lot longer, and
gives a poor finish.
Be aware that you may hit screws/nails when you cut through, so it could
damage a saw tooth, or damage the planer if you use that.

If you do cut off the bottom rail of the door, then you will need to fit
the cut off piece back in the door to give it some strength at the
bottom, otherwise it will quickly start separating the 2 outer panels at
the bottom.
Alan.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

Samantha Booth wrote:

Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered on
the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door as
its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown, highly
polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam

Put a pencil line along both faces (front and back) of the door at the
point you want to stop planing. Plane from door edge to centre from each
side. This will prevent the plane from splitting the timber on the exit
side of the cut.
You might end up with a convex curve, but this is of no consequence as
the plane can still bite in to remove it, by starting somewhere along
the door away from it's edge. There will be a problem if you take too
much off at the middle of the door (concave shape) as you can't put it
back if you take too much off.

Ideally, the door should be held firmly and have the edge to be planed
at about waist, or chest height, so a work mate vice might be of help.
Be warned that an electric plane will throw wood chips out at 90 degrees
from the direction of planing, unless it has a dust bag, so do this
outside if there if no dust bag. And get some goggles, just in case.

Also, look at the end of the edge you are planing, just to make sure
that it is square to the face of the door, and keep an eye on the pencil
lines. I tend to wander off at an angle when I have a lot to trim off.

I've got to ask...

How thick is the carpet?

Dave

Samantha Booth wrote:
Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered on
the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door as
its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown, highly
polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam


Remove the door first!

You have had pretty pmuchj all te advice.15mm is far too much for a
plane,and its either circular saw territory or a nice new sharp cheap
handsaw.

15mm is also pretty close to ripping off the internal bit of frame:
consider taking 7.5mm off each end, and then revrsing the door and
making new hinge slots, or sod it and get a better door and start again.

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered on
the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door as
its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown, highly
polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam



Hi agin Sammy,you got any clamps? clamp two pieces of wood the lenght of
both sides of the door at the rquired amount to take off...this will then
stop any splintering of the sides.
On the end of one side of the door pin a piece of wood at the same level of
the other two pieces,this will stop the plane shattering the end of the
doors side.
Use the plane at a slight angle to the door,this will stop you gouging the
end of the planes sweep.
Try to sweep the plane across the door edge in one continuous sweep without
stopping.

I prefer to use a router for trimming the end of doors,gives a better finish
without damage.

A.Lee wrote:

Samantha Booth wrote:


Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered on
the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door as
its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown, highly
polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?


Yes, use a circular saw.
A handsaw will suffice, but will be hard work, take a lot longer, and
gives a poor finish.
Be aware that you may hit screws/nails when you cut through, so it could
damage a saw tooth, or damage the planer if you use that.

My TC blades are quite happy to take on nails and screws if I go slowly :-)

If you do cut off the bottom rail of the door, then you will need to fit
the cut off piece back in the door to give it some strength at the
bottom, otherwise it will quickly start separating the 2 outer panels at
the bottom.

The bottom rail of the door is about 2 or more inches deep, at 15 mm of
removal, there will be no danger of cutting it out.

Dave

On Fri, 6 Jun 2008 21:34:19 +0100, Samantha Booth wrote:

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Well you could hire a door saw so you don't have to take the door off it's
hinges. 15mm with a planer is a lot of work and as others have pointed out
keeping the thing square might be tricky.

Personally I'd check if the door is hollow or not, tap it... Then remove
it, a hollow door is nice and light a solid ones are surprisingly heavy.
If hollow I'd remove the bit of wood in the bottom first, 15mm is going to
reduce the bit left that considerably. Removal might be fun depending on
how well it is stuck to the skins, thin blade tapped along might be
required. Cut the 15mm off with a hand saw, check that enough has been
removed just a screw in the top and bottom hinges, then glue the bottom
rail back in and rehang the door properly.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Samantha Booth wrote:
Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered on
the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door as
its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown, highly
polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam


Looking at a door catalogue the other day, think it said 6mm is the max.
they recommend you remove from any one side/edge! Mind, there is a fair
chance you will get away with it.

If you haven't used it yet, I would take it back and get a mains one. A
planer only works welll when the blade is running at very high speed. I
suspect that a battery one will not run at full speed after just a few
minutes of use.

If the door is hollow where you are cutting, how will the planer not
shred it? IMHO (and please do tell me if I am wrong folks) a circular
saw with a fine toothed blade, guided by a batten clamped to the door,
is your best bet. If, having done that, the door still needs a little
adjustment, that is when a planer becomes a sensible option.

You are likely to cause some splintering along the edge of the door
whatever you use. Suggest you at least apply masking tape along the line
of the cut.

The door catalogue was also explicit about sealing all edges as soon as
they have been cut - with paint, varnish, whatever makes sense.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

"Dave" wrote in message
...


The bottom rail of the door is about 2 or more inches deep, at 15 mm of
removal, there will be no danger of cutting it out.

Unless it was trimmed to fit,

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
"Samantha Booth" wrote:

Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered on
the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door as
its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown, highly
polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam


I am completely cack handed with an electric plane so I won't offer
you any advice. But I do admire you for trying so many new things
almost at the same time.

I don't think I have ever known one person to be on so many steep
learning curves at once!

Good luck.

LOL Thanks Bruce. Thing is if I dont ask and do it myself I will never
learn. I have done three of the bedrooms, gloss is perfect now, filled
walls, plastered one, made my own T&G bath panel from white pvc t&g which
really looks nice, fitted an outdoor socket a waterpoof one and also fitted
a tap outside today. I have made mistakes, loads but with everyones help
here I feel I can do it right. I have opened the planer now, I wonder if B&Q
will have it back???

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered on
the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door as
its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown, highly
polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam



There is an easier way Sammy...rising butt hinges :-)

On 06/06/2008 21:34 Samantha Booth wrote:

I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered on
the recommendation of B&Q.

I think you'll do a faster, and better job if you got yourself a mains
plane rather than the battery. It may also be worthwhile using a saw
(circular or hand) to take off the first 10-12mm. If you use a circular
saw take care not to mark the face of the door as the sole-plate of the
saw travels across it.

Draw pencil lines on each of the door's faces to mark how much to take
off, work from the edges inwards (unless you want to knock splinters off
the door edges) and use a carpenter's square to check how square and
flat the edge is as you go along: it'll almost certainly be convex after
a couple of runs with the plane.

All the above still fresh in my mind after replacing all 18 internal
doors last year!

Best of luck.

--
F

"Dave" wrote in message
...
Samantha Booth wrote:

Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered
on the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door
as its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown,
highly polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam

Put a pencil line along both faces (front and back) of the door at the
point you want to stop planing. Plane from door edge to centre from each
side. This will prevent the plane from splitting the timber on the exit
side of the cut.
You might end up with a convex curve, but this is of no consequence as the
plane can still bite in to remove it, by starting somewhere along the door
away from it's edge. There will be a problem if you take too much off at
the middle of the door (concave shape) as you can't put it back if you
take too much off.

Ideally, the door should be held firmly and have the edge to be planed at
about waist, or chest height, so a work mate vice might be of help. Be
warned that an electric plane will throw wood chips out at 90 degrees from
the direction of planing, unless it has a dust bag, so do this outside if
there if no dust bag. And get some goggles, just in case.

Also, look at the end of the edge you are planing, just to make sure that
it is square to the face of the door, and keep an eye on the pencil lines.
I tend to wander off at an angle when I have a lot to trim off.

I've got to ask...

How thick is the carpet?

Dave

Hi dave

Very thick pile, good foam underlay too. two are just snagging, one door
needs between 1cm and 2 off. I dont want to damage the carpet by dragging
the door all the time.

Samantha Booth wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
...

"Samantha Booth" wrote:


Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered on
the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door as
its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown, highly
polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam


I am completely cack handed with an electric plane so I won't offer
you any advice. But I do admire you for trying so many new things
almost at the same time.

I don't think I have ever known one person to be on so many steep
learning curves at once!

Good luck.


LOL Thanks Bruce. Thing is if I dont ask and do it myself I will never
learn. I have done three of the bedrooms, gloss is perfect now, filled
walls, plastered one, made my own T&G bath panel from white pvc t&g which
really looks nice, fitted an outdoor socket a waterpoof one and also fitted
a tap outside today. I have made mistakes, loads but with everyones help
here I feel I can do it right. I have opened the planer now, I wonder if B&Q
will have it back???

They have a very good returns policy, so It shouldn't be a problem

Samantha Booth wrote:

"Dave" wrote in message
...

Samantha Booth wrote:


Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered
on the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door
as its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown,
highly polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam

Put a pencil line along both faces (front and back) of the door at the
point you want to stop planing. Plane from door edge to centre from each
side. This will prevent the plane from splitting the timber on the exit
side of the cut.
You might end up with a convex curve, but this is of no consequence as the
plane can still bite in to remove it, by starting somewhere along the door
away from it's edge. There will be a problem if you take too much off at
the middle of the door (concave shape) as you can't put it back if you
take too much off.

Ideally, the door should be held firmly and have the edge to be planed at
about waist, or chest height, so a work mate vice might be of help. Be
warned that an electric plane will throw wood chips out at 90 degrees from
the direction of planing, unless it has a dust bag, so do this outside if
there if no dust bag. And get some goggles, just in case.

Also, look at the end of the edge you are planing, just to make sure that
it is square to the face of the door, and keep an eye on the pencil lines.
I tend to wander off at an angle when I have a lot to trim off.

I've got to ask...

How thick is the carpet?

Dave


Hi dave

Very thick pile, good foam underlay too. two are just snagging, one door
needs between 1cm and 2 off. I dont want to damage the carpet by dragging
the door all the time.

Understood.

Dave

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered on
the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door as
its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown, highly
polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam


Forgot to say....

There were three CS I liked. First DeWalt-mains powered, secondly Makita
Mains, thirdly was a evolution. He said this will cut metal, nails screws
etc no problem so if I hit one on the door its not a problem. He did say a
CS wouldnt be any god as the cut will be terribly jagged and would look bad
with a cs.?????

If it did is there any kind of trim I can buy, or plastic cover that goes on
the bottom, getting worried not I have bought the wrond tool.

Anyone know if B&Q will take it back unused??? but opened

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message

LOL Thanks Bruce. Thing is if I dont ask and do it myself I will never
learn. I have done three of the bedrooms, gloss is perfect now, filled
walls, plastered one, made my own T&G bath panel from white pvc t&g which
really looks nice, fitted an outdoor socket a waterpoof one and also
fitted
a tap outside today. I have made mistakes, loads but with everyones help
here I feel I can do it right. I have opened the planer now, I wonder if
B&Q
will have it back???



Tell the you wish to swop it for a circular saw as you have had a few
recommendations that the CS is best for cutting 15mm off the door rather
than use a planer. ;-)

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message

Forgot to say....

There were three CS I liked. First DeWalt-mains powered, secondly Makita
Mains, thirdly was a evolution. He said this will cut metal, nails screws
etc no problem so if I hit one on the door its not a problem. He did say a
CS wouldnt be any god as the cut will be terribly jagged and would look
bad
with a cs.?????

If it did is there any kind of trim I can buy, or plastic cover that goes
on
the bottom, getting worried not I have bought the wrond tool.

Anyone know if B&Q will take it back unused??? but opened



Shouldn't be a problem exchanging it for the CS and no doubt you'll be
paying a bit extra towards the CS?

wrote:
Any tips on doing a good job please?

Yes, take the planer back and get a (mains powered) circular saw.

Absolutely 100% spot on. B&Q **** has never done the job.

Cordless planers are designed for taking off a light pass (1mm or
less), and a little skill is required to produce good results. Trying
to take lots of passes to take off 15mm would be tricky.

More than a litle skill to be fair & a month of Sundays to take off 15mm.

Yes the door is probably hollow, but you're trimming off part of the
solid timbers that make up the outer edge of the door and to which the
two thin "faces" of ply either side is attached.


Dead right.

Make up a sawboard http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm Not only do
they allow dead straight cuts, they protect the upper surface from chipping.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Samantha Booth wrote:
"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the
bottom of the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi)
battery powered on the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw
would shred the door as its hollow, also looks and feels like an
office door. Shiny brown, highly polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam


Forgot to say....

There were three CS I liked. First DeWalt-mains powered, secondly
Makita Mains, thirdly was a evolution. He said this will cut metal,
nails screws etc no problem so if I hit one on the door its not a
problem. He did say a CS wouldnt be any god as the cut will be
terribly jagged and would look bad with a cs.?????

Forget the Evolution, its solving a problem nobody has. Avoid B&Q own label
(incc McCallister) power tools, they are the spawn of satan. Battery
circular saws are complete pants unless you spend lots of dosh.

DeWalt & Makita are great, I use a Makita 5604R. Overkill for DIY however.

The quality of cut depends almost entirely on the number of teeth the blade
has. A 24 tooth TCT blade is OK for door trim, a 40 tooth is better.

Whatever saw you buy make sure there are plenty of blades easily avaulable.
The only problem with my Makita 5604R is that its an odd blade size, so I'm
stuck with relatively expensive, wait a few days, Makita blades.


If it did is there any kind of trim I can buy, or plastic cover that
goes on the bottom, getting worried not I have bought the wrond tool.

You wont need trim, especially if you use a sawboard (see earlier post).

Anyone know if B&Q will take it back unused??? but opened

They gave you crap advice - a planer is the wrong tool for trimming 15mm off
a door. Their fault.

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
. ..


Samantha Booth wrote:
"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the
bottom of the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi)
battery powered on the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw
would shred the door as its hollow, also looks and feels like an
office door. Shiny brown, highly polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam


Forgot to say....

There were three CS I liked. First DeWalt-mains powered, secondly
Makita Mains, thirdly was a evolution. He said this will cut metal,
nails screws etc no problem so if I hit one on the door its not a
problem. He did say a CS wouldnt be any god as the cut will be
terribly jagged and would look bad with a cs.?????

Forget the Evolution, its solving a problem nobody has. Avoid B&Q own
label (incc McCallister) power tools, they are the spawn of satan.
Battery circular saws are complete pants unless you spend lots of dosh.

DeWalt & Makita are great, I use a Makita 5604R. Overkill for DIY
however.

The quality of cut depends almost entirely on the number of teeth the
blade has. A 24 tooth TCT blade is OK for door trim, a 40 tooth is
better.

Whatever saw you buy make sure there are plenty of blades easily
avaulable. The only problem with my Makita 5604R is that its an odd blade
size, so I'm stuck with relatively expensive, wait a few days, Makita
blades.


If it did is there any kind of trim I can buy, or plastic cover that
goes on the bottom, getting worried not I have bought the wrond tool.

You wont need trim, especially if you use a sawboard (see earlier post).

Anyone know if B&Q will take it back unused??? but opened

They gave you crap advice - a planer is the wrong tool for trimming 15mm
off a door. Their fault.


Can I buy saw boards. Also if I am to cut sooo much off the door, what if I
hit a nail etc, wont a do it all blade be better? I am not questioning your
advice, far from it, I just dont fancy hitting a nail and screwing up the
door or saw

thanls a million

Samantha Booth wrote:
SNIP
Can I buy saw boards. Also if I am to cut sooo much off the door,
what if I hit a nail etc, wont a do it all blade be better? I am not
questioning your advice, far from it, I just dont fancy hitting a
nail and screwing up the door or saw

You can't buy a sawboard, but you can make one in 5 mins. I carry three
different lenghts on the van.

Chances if hitting a nail in a new cheap door is rare, if you did, it would
be an 18g brad & a TCT blade/you wont even notice. There are relatively few
in a new door anyway.

A sawbord will change your life! :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Samantha Booth wrote:

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
. ..


Samantha Booth wrote:

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
.. .

Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the
bottom of the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi)
battery powered on the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw
would shred the door as its hollow, also looks and feels like an
office door. Shiny brown, highly polished.

Any tips on doing a good job please?

Thanks yet again Sam


Forgot to say....

There were three CS I liked. First DeWalt-mains powered, secondly
Makita Mains, thirdly was a evolution. He said this will cut metal,
nails screws etc no problem so if I hit one on the door its not a
problem. He did say a CS wouldnt be any god as the cut will be
terribly jagged and would look bad with a cs.?????

Forget the Evolution, its solving a problem nobody has. Avoid B&Q own
label (incc McCallister) power tools, they are the spawn of satan.
Battery circular saws are complete pants unless you spend lots of dosh.

DeWalt & Makita are great, I use a Makita 5604R. Overkill for DIY
however.

The quality of cut depends almost entirely on the number of teeth the
blade has. A 24 tooth TCT blade is OK for door trim, a 40 tooth is
better.

Whatever saw you buy make sure there are plenty of blades easily
avaulable. The only problem with my Makita 5604R is that its an odd blade
size, so I'm stuck with relatively expensive, wait a few days, Makita
blades.


If it did is there any kind of trim I can buy, or plastic cover that
goes on the bottom, getting worried not I have bought the wrond tool.

You wont need trim, especially if you use a sawboard (see earlier post).

Anyone know if B&Q will take it back unused??? but opened

They gave you crap advice - a planer is the wrong tool for trimming 15mm
off a door. Their fault.



Can I buy saw boards. Also if I am to cut sooo much off the door, what if I
hit a nail etc, wont a do it all blade be better? I am not questioning your
advice, far from it, I just dont fancy hitting a nail and screwing up the
door or saw

thanls a million

I very much doubt that you will encounter a nail at that depth of the
door. there are made to be worked at within 15 mm of the bottom edge.

Dave

Dave

On Fri, 06 Jun 2008 22:25:44 +0100, Dave wrote:

The bottom rail of the door is about 2 or more inches deep, at 15 mm of
removal, there will be no danger of cutting it out.

Not on any doors I've trimmed. I'd say the bottom timber was not much more
than 1" sq orginally.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave coughed up some electrons that declared:

I very much doubt that you will encounter a nail at that depth of the
door. there are made to be worked at within 15 mm of the bottom edge.

Dave

I did. Well, more of a pin or bit of staple...

On Jun 7, 8:58 am, " wrote:

The CC should come with a fence so you can set it to take off 15mm. Or
you can clamp a batten on for the saw to follow. Set the depth to to
just cut right through. Be careful to avoid any screws or nails. Be
highly aware of the blade protruding through the bottom of the cut,
and what it may come in contact with. A CC is a but fierce the first
time you use one, but with very little practice it will produce
consistently good results.

What is a "CC"?

What is a "CC"?

My typo for CS - circular saw.

They gave you crap advice - a planer is the wrong tool for trimming 15mm off
a door. Their fault.

But just the tool for the OP to use to flay the alive the B&Q idiot
that advised her to buy it.

Paul Matthews wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

A sawbord will change your life! :-)

I must admit that after that link you posted, I am looking at making
at least one for myself...

As I also have a small table saw, it should be a doddle..

I make mine from a strip of 6mm ply about 150mm wide for the guide and 4mm
ply for the base. Glue liberally, screw through from the 4mm into the 6mm,
remove screws when glue dry. Just make sure you clean the glue off
properly.

________________
¦_______________¦_____________________
¦____________________________________¦

This makes a board rigid enough to use but you only lose up to a max 6mm
depth of cut. In fact the body of my Makita 5604R just clears the 6mm guide
so I don't lose any DOC.

Brilliant things, I don't leave home without one :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Paul Matthews wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

A sawbord will change your life! :-)
I must admit that after that link you posted, I am looking at making
at least one for myself...

As I also have a small table saw, it should be a doddle..

I make mine from a strip of 6mm ply about 150mm wide for the guide and 4mm
ply for the base. Glue liberally, screw through from the 4mm into the 6mm,
remove screws when glue dry. Just make sure you clean the glue off
properly.

________________
�_______________�_____________________
�____________________________________�

This makes a board rigid enough to use but you only lose up to a max 6mm
depth of cut. In fact the body of my Makita 5604R just clears the 6mm guide
so I don't lose any DOC.

Brilliant things, I don't leave home without one :-)


I made mine out of a strip of engineered wood (or is it bamboo?)
flooring for the guide. Lovely clean, smooth, lacquered edges already.
Tough. (Scrap section at Wickes.)

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

The Medway Handyman wrote:
The quality of cut depends almost entirely on the number of teeth the blade
has. A 24 tooth TCT blade is OK for door trim, a 40 tooth is better.


Include the cost of a decent fine tooth blade as TMH says. Buy one
before cutting your doors. Mine is a Freud but I was not impressed by
some of the ones in the sheds. I honestly can't remember the last time I
switched back to the original - I always use fine tooth. (Only real
penalty is that some cuts take a bit longer. But that is sometimes paid
back by needing less finishing.)

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
. ..


Paul Matthews wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

A sawbord will change your life! :-)

I must admit that after that link you posted, I am looking at making
at least one for myself...

As I also have a small table saw, it should be a doddle..

I make mine from a strip of 6mm ply about 150mm wide for the guide and 4mm
ply for the base. Glue liberally, screw through from the 4mm into the
6mm, remove screws when glue dry. Just make sure you clean the glue off
properly.

________________
¦_______________¦_____________________
¦____________________________________¦

This makes a board rigid enough to use but you only lose up to a max 6mm
depth of cut. In fact the body of my Makita 5604R just clears the 6mm
guide so I don't lose any DOC.

Brilliant things, I don't leave home without one :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk


Sorry MH I am struggling with this one. I get a 3 or 4 foot board 150m wide
6mm deep, then glue 4mm board to it, how wide?then the cs sits on the bottom
piece using the side of it as a guide?

Having a blonde moment here lol

Sorry MH I am struggling with this one. I get a 3 or 4 foot board 150m wide
6mm deep, then glue 4mm board to it, how wide?then the cs sits on the bottom
piece using the side of it as a guide?

Correct. The magic bit is you then cut the lower board to exactly the
correct width when you first run the saw over the top of the lower
board, using the edge of the upper board as a guide. That's it. Custom
sawboard made.

For ever after, all you then have to do is slap your sawboard down
with that edge you just cut on your lower board exactly aligned with
wherever you want to cut through on the the job you're doing (the line
you want to trim to on your doors in your case).

Dimensions on the sawboard are unimportant, apart from the lower board
area being wider than the base of your circular saw for when you do
that first "cut to size" to make a sawboard exactly matching your saw.

Explanation with diagrams:

http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message

Sorry MH I am struggling with this one. I get a 3 or 4 foot board 150m
wide
6mm deep, then glue 4mm board to it, how wide?then the cs sits on the
bottom
piece using the side of it as a guide?

Having a blonde moment here lol



Sammy
Make the sawboard as in the link provided.

Take the door on its flat,draw a pencil line of the amount of wood you need
to take off across the door.
Place the sawboards edge level with that line and clamp the sawboard to the
door.
Now just use the sawboards top guide with the CS and you will get a perfect
cut line.

The links diagram is self explanetry if you just carefully read and look
slowly.

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
. ..


Paul Matthews wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

A sawbord will change your life! :-)

I must admit that after that link you posted, I am looking at making
at least one for myself...

As I also have a small table saw, it should be a doddle..

I make mine from a strip of 6mm ply about 150mm wide for the guide and 4mm
ply for the base. Glue liberally, screw through from the 4mm into the
6mm, remove screws when glue dry. Just make sure you clean the glue off
properly.

________________
¦_______________¦_____________________
¦____________________________________¦

This makes a board rigid enough to use but you only lose up to a max 6mm
depth of cut. In fact the body of my Makita 5604R just clears the 6mm
guide so I don't lose any DOC.

I think that's a bit thin, mines 18 mm ply, I just happened to have a strip
left over.
Not found a job where I needed that 18 mm on the depth of cut yet.
I have a couple of Axminster guide clamps if I do.

Brilliant things, I don't leave home without one :-)

Showed it to my brother who is a life long chippy and never used one, now he
always uses one.

dennis@home wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message . ..


Paul Matthews wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

A sawbord will change your life! :-)

I must admit that after that link you posted, I am looking at making
at least one for myself...

As I also have a small table saw, it should be a doddle..

I make mine from a strip of 6mm ply about 150mm wide for the guide
and 4mm ply for the base. Glue liberally, screw through from the
4mm into the 6mm, remove screws when glue dry. Just make sure you
clean the glue off properly.

________________
¦_______________¦_____________________
¦____________________________________¦

This makes a board rigid enough to use but you only lose up to a max
6mm depth of cut. In fact the body of my Makita 5604R just clears
the 6mm guide so I don't lose any DOC.

I think that's a bit thin, mines 18 mm ply, I just happened to have a
strip left over.
Not found a job where I needed that 18 mm on the depth of cut yet.
I have a couple of Axminster guide clamps if I do.

Brilliant things, I don't leave home without one :-)

Showed it to my brother who is a life long chippy and never used one,
now he always uses one.

I've three chippys shocked & stunned by the utter simplicity of the thing. -
they all wandered off looking for scrap plywood.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

wrote:
Sorry MH I am struggling with this one. I get a 3 or 4 foot board
150m wide 6mm deep, then glue 4mm board to it, how wide?then the cs
sits on the bottom piece using the side of it as a guide?

Correct. The magic bit is you then cut the lower board to exactly the
correct width when you first run the saw over the top of the lower
board, using the edge of the upper board as a guide. That's it. Custom
sawboard made.

As Dom said, its self making. As long as the bottom board is wider than the
base of your CS.

Did you get the Aldi link Sam?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk