Just doing a few of those un-finished jobs, and I'm now on the smoke
alarm bit.

I previously ran T&E for mains power with another run of 2pair screened
in case I went from low voltage panel powered stuff, So I have gone
mains powered using data ware for interconecting alarms.

My current dilema is the attic. Typical un-inhabited attic with
(currently) no insulation as wiring jobs to finalise.

As I have LAN server and a few bits (a lot of mains wiring and LV
halogens for ceiling below as living area is on top floor bedrooms
downstairs) in the roof, I would like a smoke alarm up there.

Would I be right in going for an optical alarm rather than an ionising
alarm? I am under the impression optical is less prone to triggering by
dust.
Also, would such a device be fine with high summer temps typical in a
roof space with insulation on the floor rather than under tiles?

Cheers
Pete

"www.GymRatZ.co.uk" wrote in
message ...
Just doing a few of those un-finished jobs, and I'm now on the smoke alarm
bit.

Would I be right in going for an optical alarm rather than an ionising
alarm? I am under the impression optical is less prone to triggering by
dust.
Also, would such a device be fine with high summer temps typical in a roof
space with insulation on the floor rather than under tiles?


Why not use a "Rate of Rise" detector?

Better still, use this one and connect it to your house alarm.

http://www.coopersecurity.co.uk/docu...35_M12_Web.pdf

All in one detector - choose with dipswitches.


"RW" wrote in message
...

"www.GymRatZ.co.uk" wrote in
message ...
Just doing a few of those un-finished jobs, and I'm now on the smoke
alarm bit.

Would I be right in going for an optical alarm rather than an ionising
alarm? I am under the impression optical is less prone to triggering by
dust.
Also, would such a device be fine with high summer temps typical in a
roof space with insulation on the floor rather than under tiles?


Why not use a "Rate of Rise" detector?

"SantaUK" wrote in message
...
Better still, use this one and connect it to your house alarm.

http://www.coopersecurity.co.uk/docu...35_M12_Web.pdf

All in one detector - choose with dipswitches.


These look just like what I am after!

Seen as they are for detecting fires, should special cables be used for the
runs to the panel and to the sounders?

Like this, for example?
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FT1slash4R.html

Sparks wrote:

http://www.coopersecurity.co.uk/docu...35_M12_Web.pdf
All in one detector - choose with dipswitches.

These look just like what I am after!

They do look good, espicially for attic use.

Seen as they are for detecting fires, should special cables be used for
the runs to the panel and to the sounders?

Bit of an overkill for a domestic situation IMHO

I would suggest that their (heat/smoke detector) use would pre-empt
temperatures/conditions that would lead to destruction of the
feed/signal wire, and once control panell has had a signal then
everything would kick off anyway.
:¬)

On Mar 31, 10:08*am, "Sparks" wrote:
"SantaUK" wrote in message

...

Better still, use this one and connect it to your house alarm.

http://www.coopersecurity.co.uk/docu...35_M12_Web.pdf

All in one detector - choose with dipswitches.

These look just like what I am after!

Seen as they are for detecting fires, should special cables be used for the
runs to the panel and to the sounders?

Like this, for example?http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FT1slash4R.html

I would check the lower and upper ambient temperature spec for this. I
have 10 Kidde spoke alarms in my house. I had one fail after 2 years -
the one in the loft. Only afterward did I notice it had a lower temp
spec of 5degC. I reckon my loft must get close to that on a cold day
(although I've not measured it). Don't know if the cold was the cause
of failure, but somethign to be aware of anyway.

Jon.