I know some folks in this group have had these fine machines - maybe still
have.

Ours has stopped rotating the drum, either on wash or spin. The inlet
solenoids work and the pump runs. I've checked the main motor windings (one
set is about 200 Ohm, middle pair lower, 3rd set lower still - can't
remember exact values) and delved into the motor control sub-PCB:
there's nothing obviously amiss on it (cracked tracks, burned out
components). I think the machine has been working intermittently so I
don't think it's a burned out component though I suppose it could be a
connect coming loose inside a plastic encapsulation. There's a Philips 18
or 20 pin DIL chip on the PCB which I guess is a little microcontroller,
and I did wonder whether it's not getting some sensor signal but the fact
that the motor doesn't go on any part of the cycle leads me to suspect the
motor control end. There is a plastic packaged 3-legged component -
possibly a thyristor or triac - clipped to some metal for a heat sink so I
guess that could be iffy.

Anybody got any suggestions - or better still cct diagrams or service
manuals? Is there a Geoff/CET-type who does recons of these things?

--
John Stumbles

I forgot to take my amnesia medecine again

In message , John Stumbles
writes
I know some folks in this group have had these fine machines - maybe still
have.

Ours has stopped rotating the drum, either on wash or spin. The inlet
solenoids work and the pump runs. I've checked the main motor windings (one
set is about 200 Ohm, middle pair lower, 3rd set lower still - can't
remember exact values) and delved into the motor control sub-PCB:
there's nothing obviously amiss on it (cracked tracks, burned out
components). I think the machine has been working intermittently so I
don't think it's a burned out component though I suppose it could be a
connect coming loose inside a plastic encapsulation. There's a Philips 18
or 20 pin DIL chip on the PCB which I guess is a little microcontroller,
and I did wonder whether it's not getting some sensor signal but the fact
that the motor doesn't go on any part of the cycle leads me to suspect the
motor control end. There is a plastic packaged 3-legged component -
possibly a thyristor or triac - clipped to some metal for a heat sink so I
guess that could be iffy.

Anybody got any suggestions - or better still cct diagrams or service
manuals? Is there a Geoff/CET-type who does recons of these things?



you could try

http://www.emwelec.co.uk/


--
geoff

On Tue, 18 Mar 2008 21:31:32 GMT, John Stumbles
wrote:

I know some folks in this group have had these fine machines - maybe still
have.

Ours has stopped rotating the drum, either on wash or spin. The inlet
solenoids work and the pump runs. I've checked the main motor windings (one
set is about 200 Ohm, middle pair lower, 3rd set lower still - can't
remember exact values) and delved into the motor control sub-PCB:
there's nothing obviously amiss on it (cracked tracks, burned out
components).

Pre-empting the worst ... and assuming it's not the motor at fault ..
and assuming it's compatible .. and as a way of off-setting the cost
of your new one .. I might be interested in the motor John? (talk
about circling vultures eh)!

All the best ..

T i m

On Tue, 18 Mar 2008 22:25:46 +0000, geoff wrote:

http://www.emwelec.co.uk/

Thanks, bookmarked.

Sadly they only do toy stuff though: Servis, Hotpoint, Zanussi, Hoover /
Candy and Inde****

--
John Stumbles

Procrastinate now!

On Tue, 18 Mar 2008 22:42:05 +0000, T i m wrote:

Pre-empting the worst ... and assuming it's not the motor at fault ..
and assuming it's compatible .. and as a way of off-setting the cost
of your new one .. I might be interested in the motor John? (talk
about circling vultures eh)!

Get yer grubby hands orf!

I'd be loath to scrap it but if it comes to that I'll get back to you.
(What do you want the motor for? Have you got a dead machine then?)


--
John Stumbles

Extreme moderate

On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 00:03:06 GMT, John Stumbles
wrote:

On Tue, 18 Mar 2008 22:42:05 +0000, T i m wrote:

Pre-empting the worst ... and assuming it's not the motor at fault ..
and assuming it's compatible .. and as a way of off-setting the cost
of your new one .. I might be interested in the motor John? (talk
about circling vultures eh)!

Get yer grubby hands orf!

lol

I'd be loath to scrap it but if it comes to that I'll get back to you.

Cheers ..

(What do you want the motor for? Have you got a dead machine then?)

Yup, the one in our 6100 Digitronic has gone 18K to earth (via the
stator) and tripping the RCD. Isolate the motor from earth and it all
runs fine. ;-)

I'm about to wash it in RO water as a last resort to clear the
resistance.

Good luck though ..

All the best ..

T i m

T i m wrote:
On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 00:03:06 GMT, John Stumbles
wrote:
On Tue, 18 Mar 2008 22:42:05 +0000, T i m wrote:

Pre-empting the worst ... and assuming it's not the motor at fault ..
and assuming it's compatible .. and as a way of off-setting the cost
of your new one .. I might be interested in the motor John? (talk
about circling vultures eh)!

Get yer grubby hands orf!

lol

I'd be loath to scrap it but if it comes to that I'll get back to you.

Cheers ..

(What do you want the motor for? Have you got a dead machine then?)

Yup, the one in our 6100 Digitronic has gone 18K to earth (via the
stator) and tripping the RCD. Isolate the motor from earth and it all
runs fine. ;-)

I'm about to wash it in RO water as a last resort to clear the
resistance.

Good luck though ..

All the best ..

T i m

Is it not poss to mount it insulated form earth, using plastic
washers, pvc sleeve etc in the mountings? Would be a simple but
effective option, and quicker than a rewind.


NT

John Stumbles wrote:

I know some folks in this group have had these fine machines - maybe still
have.

Ours has stopped rotating the drum, either on wash or spin. The inlet
solenoids work and the pump runs. I've checked the main motor windings (one
set is about 200 Ohm, middle pair lower, 3rd set lower still - can't
remember exact values) and delved into the motor control sub-PCB:
there's nothing obviously amiss on it (cracked tracks, burned out
components). I think the machine has been working intermittently so I
don't think it's a burned out component though I suppose it could be a
connect coming loose inside a plastic encapsulation. There's a Philips 18
or 20 pin DIL chip on the PCB which I guess is a little microcontroller,
and I did wonder whether it's not getting some sensor signal but the fact
that the motor doesn't go on any part of the cycle leads me to suspect the
motor control end. There is a plastic packaged 3-legged component -
possibly a thyristor or triac - clipped to some metal for a heat sink so I
guess that could be iffy.

Anybody got any suggestions - or better still cct diagrams or service
manuals? Is there a Geoff/CET-type who does recons of these things?

It just comes down to divide and conquer. More or less all WMs
have their motors powered the same way as this one. Triacs are
maybe the most vulnerable part, and in the middle of the chain, so
I'd start by looking each side of that. Just gotta hook up some clip
leads in there and measure everything while its supposed to be
running.

There arent really any short cuts. Some simple stuff has a weakest
part you can replace blind, but when theres nothing obvious you
have to do it properly.


NT

On Tue, 18 Mar 2008 20:25:44 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


Yup, the one in our 6100 Digitronic has gone 18K to earth (via the
stator) and tripping the RCD. Isolate the motor from earth and it all
runs fine. ;-)

Is it not poss to mount it insulated form earth, using plastic
washers, pvc sleeve etc in the mountings? Would be a simple but
effective option, and quicker than a rewind.

I that actually considered that.

The thing is it's mounted on one big bolt that allows you to swivel
the motor to tension the belt then lock the bolt therefore it is quite
a substantial and rigid mounting. That's not to say I couldn't
fabricate an isolated mount as you suggest of course but even I have
limits as to how far I will go! (and John might have a working motor
for me soon anyway eh weg).

All the best ..

T i m

On 19 Mar, 00:01, John Stumbles wrote:
On Tue, 18 Mar 2008 22:25:46 +0000, geoff wrote:
http://www.emwelec.co.uk/

Thanks, bookmarked.

Sadly they only do toy stuff though: Servis, Hotpoint, Zanussi, Hoover /
Candy and Inde****

--
John Stumbles

Procrastinate now!

AEG are part of Electrolux, so Zanussi... Badge snobbery, eh? TBH when
I needed drum bearings and the seal to replace ours last year when
they had had it, the guys in the shop I dealt with rated AEG highly
and said definitely worth DIY repair. (I already had it in pieces when
I took the parts in). The manufacturer's replacement seal was bagged
and branded Electrolux. They do share parts, and your parts are never
happen to be the cheapest in the range of things!

On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 14:34:10 -0700, Part timer wrote:

AEG are part of Electrolux, so Zanussi... Badge snobbery, eh?

When BMW bought the scraps of British Leyland my dad, who had an MG Metro,
annnounced that he was now a BMW owner.

The Lavamat 6200 is a Real AEG, not an Electrosux badge job. I don't know
how old it is - I got it off a woman who was replacing it with a new
machine even though there was nothing wrong with it - but probably late
20th Century.

For the benefit of the gentleman who was after the motor (sodding
NTL/Virgin seem to have lost a load of recent posts from their news
servers) and everyone else waiting with eager anticipation for the
continuation/culmination of the saga, it was only the brushes. Replaced
them and it's fine.

Mind you the bloody brushes were £20.75 (and the bloke in Apple Electrics
said think yourself lucky it's not a Miele, they're £90ish. Mate.)


--
John Stumbles

I can't stand intolerance

On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 22:03:41 GMT, John Stumbles
wrote:

On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 14:34:10 -0700, Part timer wrote:

AEG are part of Electrolux, so Zanussi... Badge snobbery, eh?

When BMW bought the scraps of British Leyland my dad, who had an MG Metro,
annnounced that he was now a BMW owner.

The Lavamat 6200 is a Real AEG, not an Electrosux badge job. I don't know
how old it is - I got it off a woman who was replacing it with a new
machine even though there was nothing wrong with it - but probably late
20th Century.

Same as ours. I believe when we bought it we could have gone down a
bit and it would have been a Zanussi, up a bit and we get a 'real'
AEG. Not that I have any issue with Zanussi in any case.

For the benefit of the gentleman who was after the motor (sodding
NTL/Virgin seem to have lost a load of recent posts from their news
servers)

waves

and everyone else waiting with eager anticipation for the
continuation/culmination of the saga, it was only the brushes. Replaced
them and it's fine.

"Cool!" damn ;-)

Mind you the bloody brushes were £20.75 (and the bloke in Apple Electrics
said think yourself lucky it's not a Miele, they're £90ish. Mate.)

I think I bought a pair without holders off the local market for £6 ..
but 90!

All the best and I'll carry on with attempting to remove the 18K Gnd
with this 5 gals of RO water I've been given (once I've made a
suitable tool to undo the 'special' screws holding the motor together
and worked out how the drive pulley is attached that is ... ).

All the best ..

T i m

On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 23:27:23 +0000, T i m wrote:

All the best and I'll carry on with attempting to remove the 18K Gnd
with this 5 gals of RO water I've been given (once I've made a
suitable tool to undo the 'special' screws holding the motor together
and worked out how the drive pulley is attached that is ... ).

S'pose you've tried compressed air through it from someone with an air
line and a blower tool? In case it's just accumulation of brush debris.

--
John Stumbles

On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 11:28:03 GMT, John Stumbles
wrote:

On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 23:27:23 +0000, T i m wrote:

All the best and I'll carry on with attempting to remove the 18K Gnd
with this 5 gals of RO water I've been given (once I've made a
suitable tool to undo the 'special' screws holding the motor together
and worked out how the drive pulley is attached that is ... ).

S'pose you've tried compressed air through it from someone with an air
line and a blower tool? In case it's just accumulation of brush debris.

Yup, the same as I did last time but then there was a L E fault
John, tripping the RCD even when it wasn't turned on.

This time it's different. :-(

All the best ..

T i m