I have had three contractors out for my roof.

I have one layer of shingles. I have one big vent at the end of the
house, but bad moisture problems inside. Water drips from every door
jamb. I figure this is mostly the leaky roof, combined with non-
existent venting.

My siding is solid on the soffits/eaves/whatever you call it. I know
it's supposed to be the ventilated siding, but it's not.

One says $6200 for a tear off and total resheathing, new ridge/soffit
vents and 30 year shingles.

Next is $4800 for tear off, new shingles, new vents.

Third is $1400 to re-roof over the shingles. He says he can use a saw
to cut a hole to put ridge vents in and then add soffit ones.

Is Mr. Cheapo doable?

What about my siding? Will I have to replace that? I can't imagine a
vent can work if the siding is solid...

Thanks
Jena

On Feb 19, 8:29�am, JMartin wrote:
I have had three contractors out for my roof.

I have one layer of shingles. �I have one big vent at the end of the
house, but bad moisture problems inside. �Water drips from every door
jamb. �I figure this is mostly the leaky roof, combined with non-
existent venting.

My siding is solid on the soffits/eaves/whatever you call it. �I know
it's supposed to be the ventilated siding, but it's not.

One says $6200 for a tear off and total resheathing, new ridge/soffit
vents and 30 year shingles.

Next is $4800 for tear off, new shingles, new vents.

Third is $1400 to re-roof over the shingles. �He says he can use a saw
to cut a hole to put ridge vents in and then add soffit ones.

Is Mr. Cheapo doable?

What about my siding? �Will I have to replace that? �I can't imagine a
vent can work if the siding is solid...

Thanks
Jena

my first question is with that much water how is the roof deck? its
likely at least started rotting, so removing old shingles to inspect
it is essential.

if you have insulation its likely all ruined

how long has the leaky roof leaked? how old is the existing roof? all
the drip edge, flashing is at least that old, and probably needs
replaced

you can certinally cut holes in siding to install vents.

have any mentioned ridge vents? they are excellent.

in general terms mid price is usually best have you checked BBB, gone
to look at nearby jobs and checked references? be certain to do that!

"JMartin" wrote in message
...
I have had three contractors out for my roof.

I have one layer of shingles. I have one big vent at the end of the
house, but bad moisture problems inside. Water drips from every door
jamb. I figure this is mostly the leaky roof, combined with non-
existent venting.

My siding is solid on the soffits/eaves/whatever you call it. I know
it's supposed to be the ventilated siding, but it's not.

One says $6200 for a tear off and total resheathing, new ridge/soffit
vents and 30 year shingles.

Next is $4800 for tear off, new shingles, new vents.

Third is $1400 to re-roof over the shingles. He says he can use a saw
to cut a hole to put ridge vents in and then add soffit ones.

Is Mr. Cheapo doable?

What about my siding? Will I have to replace that? I can't imagine a
vent can work if the siding is solid...

Thanks
Jena


That last thing, about the siding and the vent: Please think about the
question further. They're going to cut a hole through the siding and
whatever's underneath when they install the vent. Why shouldn't it work?

As far as the price range, anything's possible, but some things aren't
likely. I've never found the cheapest solution to be an acceptable one.
Begin by asking everyone you know if they've used a roofer and were happy
with the results. Remember that cleaning up afterward is an important part
of the job. You can help by cutting the lawn very short before the job
begins.

Most contractors put signs on the lawns when they work on houses. Knock on
the homeowner's doors and ask how they liked the work. Some people will be
clueless, but others will have paid close attention and will have good
information to share.

By the way, I got quotes ranging from $2000 to $9000, for the exact same
work. Most were around $5000, which is what I ended up paying. The guy with
the cheapest quote exhibited a problem: I asked "I understand there's a
special roof vent to use for a bathroom fan duct. What kind do you use? What
do they look like?" I got a blank stare followed by "I'll have to find out
more, and get back to you about it."

He was removed from the list immediately.

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 05:29:05 -0800 (PST), JMartin wrote:

I have had three contractors out for my roof.

I have one layer of shingles. I have one big vent at the end of the
house, but bad moisture problems inside. Water drips from every door
jamb. I figure this is mostly the leaky roof, combined with non-
existent venting.


I assume only the exterior doors? If interior, why only the doors and not
the rest of the ceiling.

My siding is solid on the soffits/eaves/whatever you call it. I know
it's supposed to be the ventilated siding, but it's not.

One says $6200 for a tear off and total resheathing, new ridge/soffit
vents and 30 year shingles.

Next is $4800 for tear off, new shingles, new vents.

Third is $1400 to re-roof over the shingles. He says he can use a saw
to cut a hole to put ridge vents in and then add soffit ones.

Is Mr. Cheapo doable?


You will only get a 25yr warranty on 30yr shingles if you roof over
existing shingles and you will not find out if you have any bad sheathing.

What about my siding? Will I have to replace that? I can't imagine a
vent can work if the siding is solid...


Cutins are common.

Thanks
Jena

On Feb 19, 7:29*am, JMartin wrote:
I have had three contractors out for my roof.

I have one layer of shingles. *I have one big vent at the end of the
house, but bad moisture problems inside. *Water drips from every door
jamb. *I figure this is mostly the leaky roof, combined with non-
existent venting.

My siding is solid on the soffits/eaves/whatever you call it. *I know
it's supposed to be the ventilated siding, but it's not.

One says $6200 for a tear off and total resheathing, new ridge/soffit
vents and 30 year shingles.

Next is $4800 for tear off, new shingles, new vents.

Third is $1400 to re-roof over the shingles. *He says he can use a saw
to cut a hole to put ridge vents in and then add soffit ones.

Is Mr. Cheapo doable?

What about my siding? *Will I have to replace that? *I can't imagine a
vent can work if the siding is solid...

Thanks
Jena

Is the roof leaking, have you gone in the attic and looked. Which
doors drip exterior only? Why are not your ceilings ruined? It sounds
like condensation issues. Is roof deck rotted? Is mold growing in the
attic indication underventing? 1400 may do it but maybe you have no
leak or venting issues but are over humidifying the house, maybe you
dont need a roof.

On Feb 19, 7:58*am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
special roof vent to use for a bathroom fan duct. What kind do you use? What
do they look like?" I got a blank stare followed by "I'll have to find out
more, and get back to you about it."

He was removed from the list immediately.- Hide quoted text -

A lot of times they'll send a sales guy around to give quotes, 'cause
the others are busy roofing. So he might've really meant it when he
said that.

JMartin wrote:
I have had three contractors out for my roof.

I have one layer of shingles. I have one big vent at the end of the
house, but bad moisture problems inside. Water drips from every door
jamb. I figure this is mostly the leaky roof, combined with non-
existent venting.

My siding is solid on the soffits/eaves/whatever you call it. I know
it's supposed to be the ventilated siding, but it's not.

One says $6200 for a tear off and total resheathing, new ridge/soffit
vents and 30 year shingles.

Next is $4800 for tear off, new shingles, new vents.

Third is $1400 to re-roof over the shingles. He says he can use a saw
to cut a hole to put ridge vents in and then add soffit ones.

Is Mr. Cheapo doable?

What about my siding? Will I have to replace that? I can't imagine a
vent can work if the siding is solid...

Thanks
Jena

Strikes me that you are trying to compare grapes, apples and artichokes.
The three estimates you have are for three different jobs, and you want
to buy
solely on price. You have no real way other than dollars to compare
what the
estimators are telling you, and no way to tell who is high medium or low
because you are dealing with three different jobs.

Personally, I think thats crazy.

Were I in your shoes, I'd write down a detailed spec sheet of exactly
what I
wanted done, and then, get bids with each bidder quoting on the same job.

If I were doing this I'd wat the following in any roof job:

1. Complte tear off of old shingles and felt paper.

2. Complete cleaning up of yard after tear off.

3. Roof deck repair / replacement as needed for rot, at $ x.00 per
32 sq feet (thats the area of a 4 x 8 panel).

4. Ridge vent installation along full length of ridge.
Installation of full soffit vents.

5. Repair / replace all flashing. Thirty pound roof paper.

6. Brand "A" shingles (you specify the brand and grade) with four
tab nailing
(no staples).


Thats an expensive job, but its the right job to correct your
roof problems.
What you describe really needs fixing, and there's no cheap way to do it
right.

Someone up thread commented on potential damaged insulation.
You may have some, but thats a separate job from the roof repair.
Don't confabulate the two.

Its worth doing the roof right.

"Nexus7" wrote in message
...
On Feb 19, 7:58 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
special roof vent to use for a bathroom fan duct. What kind do you use?
What
do they look like?" I got a blank stare followed by "I'll have to find out
more, and get back to you about it."

He was removed from the list immediately.- Hide quoted text -

A lot of times they'll send a sales guy around to give quotes, 'cause
the others are busy roofing. So he might've really meant it when he
said that.

===============

The sales guy should know the answer to that question. But, in this case, it
was the guy who would've been doing the work.

"jJim McLaughlin" wrote in message
...
JMartin wrote:
I have had three contractors out for my roof.

I have one layer of shingles. I have one big vent at the end of the
house, but bad moisture problems inside. Water drips from every door
jamb. I figure this is mostly the leaky roof, combined with non-
existent venting.

My siding is solid on the soffits/eaves/whatever you call it. I know
it's supposed to be the ventilated siding, but it's not.

One says $6200 for a tear off and total resheathing, new ridge/soffit
vents and 30 year shingles.

Next is $4800 for tear off, new shingles, new vents.

Third is $1400 to re-roof over the shingles. He says he can use a saw
to cut a hole to put ridge vents in and then add soffit ones.

Is Mr. Cheapo doable?

What about my siding? Will I have to replace that? I can't imagine a
vent can work if the siding is solid...

Thanks
Jena

Strikes me that you are trying to compare grapes, apples and artichokes.
The three estimates you have are for three different jobs, and you want to
buy
solely on price. You have no real way other than dollars to compare what
the
estimators are telling you, and no way to tell who is high medium or low
because you are dealing with three different jobs.

Personally, I think thats crazy.

Were I in your shoes, I'd write down a detailed spec sheet of exactly
what I
wanted done, and then, get bids with each bidder quoting on the same job.

If I were doing this I'd wat the following in any roof job:

1. Complte tear off of old shingles and felt paper.

2. Complete cleaning up of yard after tear off.

3. Roof deck repair / replacement as needed for rot, at $ x.00 per 32
sq feet (thats the area of a 4 x 8 panel).

4. Ridge vent installation along full length of ridge.
Installation of full soffit vents.

5. Repair / replace all flashing. Thirty pound roof paper.

6. Brand "A" shingles (you specify the brand and grade) with four tab
nailing
(no staples).


Thats an expensive job, but its the right job to correct your roof
problems.
What you describe really needs fixing, and there's no cheap way to do it
right.

Someone up thread commented on potential damaged insulation.
You may have some, but thats a separate job from the roof repair.
Don't confabulate the two.

Its worth doing the roof right.


I agree. It important to compare apples to apples. Like Jim said, the best
thing to do is come up with own specifications and let everyone bid on the
exact same work. Do this for all construction projects, not just roofing.

Reroofing over one layer of shingles is generally acceptable, but as others
have stated you don't know if you have a problem with the wood under the
shingles. If you have an attic it may be possible to see evidence of leaks
from inside.

Don't go with the lowest bidder. If you want to try and save money you can
offer to be responsible for clean-up and disposal of the garbage, but be
forewarned that there will be a lot of trash with a removal. Put down some
cheap blue tarps around the house to catch debris.

JMartin wrote:

I have had three contractors out for my roof.

I have one layer of shingles. I have one big vent at the end of the
house, but bad moisture problems inside. Water drips from every door
jamb. I figure this is mostly the leaky roof, combined with non-
existent venting.



I haven't read much of this thread yet, but forgive me for doubting this
is a serious post........
you have water dripping from every door jamb???!!!!!?? How many door
jambs? Immediately
under the attic? Are your ceilings sagging? One story? Two?
What does the attic space look like, as far as drips, leaks, stains?

My siding is solid on the soffits/eaves/whatever you call it. I know
it's supposed to be the ventilated siding, but it's not.

One says $6200 for a tear off and total resheathing, new ridge/soffit
vents and 30 year shingles.

Next is $4800 for tear off, new shingles, new vents.


The fact that you are comparing these two bids tells me you need to
learn a good deal about
roofing. I am not trying to be critical or sarcastic - the bids should
be itemized so that you
can compare item for item, including brand/type of shingle, brand/type
of underlayment, price
per sheet of sheathing, disposal, cleanup.

Third is $1400 to re-roof over the shingles. He says he can use a saw
to cut a hole to put ridge vents in and then add soffit ones.


Reroofing over old shingles is not a good idea in any case; with serious
leaks, it is an awful idea. Ridge
vents can be fairly simple even when not reroofing.

Is Mr. Cheapo doable?


Don't even consider "Mr. Cheapo" until you KNOW what needs to be done
and what, exactly,
each bid includes.

What about my siding? Will I have to replace that? I can't imagine a
vent can work if the siding is solid...

Thanks
Jena

JMartin wrote:

I have had three contractors out for my roof.

I have one layer of shingles. I have one big vent at the end of the
house, but bad moisture problems inside. Water drips from every door
jamb. I figure this is mostly the leaky roof, combined with non-
existent venting.

My siding is solid on the soffits/eaves/whatever you call it. I know
it's supposed to be the ventilated siding, but it's not.

One says $6200 for a tear off and total resheathing, new ridge/soffit
vents and 30 year shingles.

Next is $4800 for tear off, new shingles, new vents.

Third is $1400 to re-roof over the shingles. He says he can use a saw
to cut a hole to put ridge vents in and then add soffit ones.

Is Mr. Cheapo doable?

What about my siding? Will I have to replace that? I can't imagine a
vent can work if the siding is solid...

Thanks
Jena


Go to any shingle mfg. website - Elk, Certainteed, etc., pick an average
type of shingle, and read
the installation instructions. Elk used to have good data on their
site, and it is educational - it will
help you understand the components to a roof job and what you will be
charged for.

Af for ridge vents, they are a pretty simple matter on a straight peak
roof. Each 300 square feet
of attic FLOOR space (not roof area) should have one square foot of vent
opening. Air should
flow through the attic from under the eaves.

Any chance you just have ice dams and your rof is fine???? You can get
lots of water backing
up UNDER roofing when the gutters aren't draining.

Any chance you just have ice dams and your rof is fine???? �You can get
lots of water backing
up UNDER roofing when the gutters aren't draining.- Hide quoted text -

thats why I was going to suggest that bitchane material although i
have no idea how its spelled.

its pricey but put on ice dam areas or all over roof in severe weather
areas. its a adhesive covered rubber coating with 2 layers of rubber
glued together with a sealing compound. you still use shingles, it
replaces tar paper. really makes for a dry roof

drive a nail thru it no leak....

wrote:

Any chance you just have ice dams and your rof is fine???? �You can get
lots of water backing
up UNDER roofing when the gutters aren't draining.- Hide quoted text -



thats why I was going to suggest that bitchane material although i
have no idea how its spelled.

its pricey but put on ice dam areas or all over roof in severe weather
areas. its a adhesive covered rubber coating with 2 layers of rubber
glued together with a sealing compound. you still use shingles, it
replaces tar paper. really makes for a dry roof

drive a nail thru it no leak....



Bitumen? We have that stuff, I think, on flat portions of our condo
roof. Use a torch to seal
seams, I think. Seems like an ice dam can still get under the edge -
what would prevent it?
I don't know when or why bitumen would be used under shingles.

On Feb 19, 4:24 pm, Norminn wrote:
wrote:
Any chance you just have ice dams and your rof is fine???? �You can get
lots of water backing
up UNDER roofing when the gutters aren't draining.- Hide quoted text -

thats why I was going to suggest that bitchane material although i
have no idea how its spelled.

its pricey but put on ice dam areas or all over roof in severe weather
areas. its a adhesive covered rubber coating with 2 layers of rubber
glued together with a sealing compound. you still use shingles, it
replaces tar paper. really makes for a dry roof

drive a nail thru it no leak....

Bitumen? We have that stuff, I think, on flat portions of our condo
roof. Use a torch to seal
seams, I think. Seems like an ice dam can still get under the edge -
what would prevent it?
I don't know when or why bitumen would be used under shingles.




I got a new roof last June. I got the GAF Timberline Ultra and it
says 30 sqs. The price was $6900. I had a tile roof before and that
included removing the old roof and hauling everything away. They
removed everything down to the bare plywood - replacing one sheet of
plywood. They renailed the plywood all over . I am in Florida and
the building codes have changed since my house was built - so they
were also bringing it up to code. They used a Cobra ridge vent. The
shingles are supposed to stay on through 110 mph winds. The vents
over the bathrooms and kitchen look just like the old ones I had -
nothing special about them.

Be sure you get at least three estimates. Check to see the one you
like has a business license and insurance. Best to check around your
neighborhood and see who others used. Get someone who works pretty
fast because you don't want to have lots of heavy rain storms while
you are without a roof covering.

"John Grabowski" wrote

Reroofing over one layer of shingles is generally acceptable, but as
others have stated you don't know if you have a problem with the wood
under the shingles. If you have an attic it may be possible to see
evidence of leaks from inside.

I have NEVER accepted that putting a new roof over an old worn out one is
acceptable practice. Maybe if you're going to sell the house soon, plan to
burn it, or aren't going to disclose it, but say it's a new roof. There's
too many things under there that are revealed by pullling the shingles off
to do anything but remove all of them and put down from new. May need some
new sheeting, and save lots in future leaks. And I think a roof that has
more than one layer of shingles looks crappy and cheap.


Don't go with the lowest bidder. If you want to try and save money you
can offer to be responsible for clean-up and disposal of the garbage, but
be forewarned that there will be a lot of trash with a removal. Put down
some cheap blue tarps around the house to catch debris.

By the time you add in all the ad ons and clean up, and your time at
whatever you charge (I charge from $40 to $200 an hour) the cheapest bid
ain't always the lowest price paid. And then your house looks like Beirut
for six weeks.

Steve

"JMartin" wrote in message

My siding is solid on the soffits/eaves/whatever you call it. I know
it's supposed to be the ventilated siding, but it's not.

One says $6200 for a tear off and total resheathing, new ridge/soffit
vents and 30 year shingles.

Next is $4800 for tear off, new shingles, new vents.

Third is $1400 to re-roof over the shingles. He says he can use a saw
to cut a hole to put ridge vents in and then add soffit ones.

Is Mr. Cheapo doable?

What about my siding? Will I have to replace that? I can't imagine a
vent can work if the siding is solid...

Thanks
Jena

They are all viable solutions to the matching problem. The problem is,
though, you don't know what yours is. If you have leaks and the house is
older, you may have to replace the sheathing and the $6200 job is the right
one. You can often give some inspection from the attic space, but until the
old shingles are off, you can't be sure.

Tear off is good and gives you the opportunity to check the sheathing, add
ice dams, etc. Makes for the best job but is costly.

The third is a viable way of doing the job as long as there is no serious
damage. Code permits 2 layers of shingles. Adding venting as he states
works too, as long as enough is put in. Methods aside, it sounds too cheap
considering the cost of material. He may be using a cheap grade of shingle
versus the 30 year job and he may be using staples instead of nails, etc.
Unless you have a tiny house, it just sounds too cheap.

The middle guy is going to see the sheathing so if it needs replacing, it
can be done, but at added cost. At least be prepared for it if you go that
way.

The cheap guy just sounds too cheap. If money is really tight, it may get
you by for another 5 or so years. Just don't give him a big down payment
and find out what brand and type of shingle he plans to use.

In any case, get some references and ask around about them.

Thanks for all the replies.

To clarify....

The roof has been leaking for over a year. The leak is in the
flashing around the chimney and also around a pole thing they put on
the roof for an antenna or something.T he decking does feel solid
when you walk on it. I have not inspected the attic.

The leak is evident inside. The ceiling has a hole and sags in that
room. At least two walls are also damaged and need new drywall. The
rest of the house does not show sagging ceilings, water damaged walls,
etc. They are lath/plaster walls.

The dripping is from every interior door jamb. In fact, the exterior
doors are the only ones not dripping. I believe the dripping is from
condensation from faulty venting combined with the ongoing leak. I
just can't see that leak running the length of the house when it has
an "out"...the hole in the living room ceiling. I could be wrong.

I figure I'll have remove and replace any insulation as it is probably
ruined and will probably turn into some kind of mold monster in warmer
weather. I do not want it slithering down to get me some hot and
humid night

I have decided not to go with Mr. Cheapo because he is not really a
contractor. Yeah, he is a union roofer and knows what he is doing,
but he doesn't have insurance, or a license and if he does a crappy
job I basically have no recourse.

JMartin wrote:


SNIP DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE AND FOOLISH DCISION

I have decided not to go with Mr. Cheapo because he is not really a
contractor. Yeah, he is a union roofer and knows what he is doing,
but he doesn't have insurance, or a license and if he does a crappy
job I basically have no recourse.



And if he hurts himself on he job like fallng off the roof, he owns
you house and land.

Industruial strength stoooopid.

On Feb 22, 1:42�pm, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:
JMartin wrote:

SNIP DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE AND FOOLISH DCISION



I have decided not to go with Mr. Cheapo because he is not really a
contractor. �Yeah, he is a union roofer and knows what he is doing,
but he doesn't have insurance, or a license and if he does a crappy
job I basically have no recourse.

And if he hurts himself on he job like fallng off the roof, he owns
you house and land.

Industruial strength stoooopid.

he said NOT go with him

sadly waiting will cost you much more, roof decking, insulation, mold
and other damage. is the attic full of stuff? that stuff is likely
ruined.

you must have a complete roof tear off and replacement. just so all
the hidden damage can be fixed

wrote:
he said NOT go with him


I really need to make sure my bran is engaged before I
start typing.

And clean my glasses, too!

Sorry

On Feb 22, 12:01*pm, JMartin wrote:
Thanks for all the replies.

To clarify....

The roof has been leaking for over a year. *The leak is in the
flashing around the chimney and also around a pole thing they put on
the roof for an antenna or something.T *he decking does feel solid
when you walk on it. *I have not inspected the attic.

The leak is evident inside. *The ceiling has a hole and sags in that
room. *At least two walls are also damaged and need new drywall. *The
rest of the house does not show sagging ceilings, water damaged walls,
etc. *They are lath/plaster walls.

The dripping is from every interior door jamb. *In fact, the exterior
doors are the only ones not dripping. *I believe the dripping is from
condensation from faulty venting combined with the ongoing leak. *I
just can't see that leak running the length of the house when it has
an "out"...the hole in the living room ceiling. *I could be wrong.

I figure I'll have remove and replace any insulation as it is probably
ruined and will probably turn into some kind of mold monster in warmer
weather. *I do not want it slithering down to get me some hot and
humid night

I have decided not to go with Mr. Cheapo because he is not really a
contractor. *Yeah, he is a union roofer and knows what he is doing,
but he doesn't have insurance, or a license and if he does a crappy
job I basically have no recourse.

So it seems you might not need a whole roof, rather its Chimney
flashing, probably improperly done, the man made hole for your
antenna that could be Patched, and attic venting. You could save
youself alot if you realy got someone over there to help, Pay for an
inspection before wasting thousands.

On Feb 22, 7:07�pm, ransley wrote:
On Feb 22, 12:01�pm, JMartin wrote:





Thanks for all the replies.

To clarify....

The roof has been leaking for over a year. �The leak is in the
flashing around the chimney and also around a pole thing they put on
the roof for an antenna or something.T �he decking does feel solid
when you walk on it. �I have not inspected the attic.

The leak is evident inside. �The ceiling has a hole and sags in that
room. �At least two walls are also damaged and need new drywall. �The
rest of the house does not show sagging ceilings, water damaged walls,
etc. �They are lath/plaster walls.

The dripping is from every interior door jamb. �In fact, the exterior
doors are the only ones not dripping. �I believe the dripping is from
condensation from faulty venting combined with the ongoing leak. �I
just can't see that leak running the length of the house when it has
an "out"...the hole in the living room ceiling. �I could be wrong.

I figure I'll have remove and replace any insulation as it is probably
ruined and will probably turn into some kind of mold monster in warmer
weather. �I do not want it slithering down to get me some hot and
humid night

I have decided not to go with Mr. Cheapo because he is not really a
contractor. �Yeah, he is a union roofer and knows what he is doing,
but he doesn't have insurance, or a license and if he does a crappy
job I basically have no recourse.

So it seems you might not need a whole roof, rather its Chimney
flashing, �probably improperly done, the man made hole for your
antenna that could be Patched, and attic venting. You could save
youself alot if you realy got someone over there to help, Pay for an
inspection before wasting thousands.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

not now, patching a bad idea after leaking a year, and water running
downstairs bringing down cielings..... rotting roof deck......

besides i bet the roof is old and patching a roof on its way out is a
great waste of money.

JMartin wrote:

Thanks for all the replies.

To clarify....

The roof has been leaking for over a year. The leak is in the
flashing around the chimney and also around a pole thing they put on
the roof for an antenna or something.T he decking does feel solid
when you walk on it. I have not inspected the attic.

The leak is evident inside. The ceiling has a hole and sags in that
room. At least two walls are also damaged and need new drywall. The
rest of the house does not show sagging ceilings, water damaged walls,
etc. They are lath/plaster walls.

The dripping is from every interior door jamb. In fact, the exterior
doors are the only ones not dripping. I believe the dripping is from
condensation from faulty venting combined with the ongoing leak. I
just can't see that leak running the length of the house when it has
an "out"...the hole in the living room ceiling. I could be wrong.


A very troubling problem.......do you have gas or oil heat? If so, get
it checked today.

I figure I'll have remove and replace any insulation as it is probably
ruined and will probably turn into some kind of mold monster in warmer
weather. I do not want it slithering down to get me some hot and
humid night

I have decided not to go with Mr. Cheapo because he is not really a
contractor. Yeah, he is a union roofer and knows what he is doing,
but he doesn't have insurance, or a license and if he does a crappy
job I basically have no recourse.

"JMartin" wrote

The roof has been leaking for over a year. The leak is in the
flashing around the chimney and also around a pole thing they put on
the roof for an antenna or something.T he decking does feel solid
when you walk on it. I have not inspected the attic.

Please do. I suspect you are in for a rude suprise.

The leak is evident inside. The ceiling has a hole and sags in that
room. At least two walls are also damaged and need new drywall. The
rest of the house does not show sagging ceilings, water damaged walls,
etc. They are lath/plaster walls.

The dripping is from every interior door jamb. In fact, the exterior
doors are the only ones not dripping. I believe the dripping is from

Much as I hate to say it, but the estimate from the high end guy had what
you seem to need. If you do it now, it won't get worse. This is pretty
serious level roof problem and it can cost you the whole house if you dont
fix it fast.

Do not be shocked if some of the rafters have to be replaced at this stage.
My neighbors waited too long and didnt havwe the plywood fully replaced when
I did. Some of them now are paying 35,000$ and up because the rafters also
have to be replaced. I believe I was told the going rate there was 1,000$
each?

On Feb 22, 9:51�pm, "cshenk" wrote:
"JMartin" wrote

The roof has been leaking for over a year. �The leak is in the
flashing around the chimney and also around a pole thing they put on
the roof for an antenna or something.T �he decking does feel solid
when you walk on it. �I have not inspected the attic.

Please do. �I suspect you are in for a rude suprise.

The leak is evident inside. �The ceiling has a hole and sags in that
room. �At least two walls are also damaged and need new drywall. �The
rest of the house does not show sagging ceilings, water damaged walls,
etc. �They are lath/plaster walls.

The dripping is from every interior door jamb. �In fact, the exterior
doors are the only ones not dripping. �I believe the dripping is from

Much as I hate to say it, but the estimate from the high end guy had what
you seem to need. �If you do it now, it won't get worse. �This is pretty
serious level roof problem and it can cost you the whole house if you dont
fix it fast.

Do not be shocked if some of the rafters have to be replaced at this stage..
My neighbors waited too long and didnt havwe the plywood fully replaced when
I did. �Some of them now are paying 35,000$ and up because the rafters also
have to be replaced. �I believe I was told the going rate there was 1,000$
each?

i believe the grand a piece estimate based on a friend who had a fire,
damaged 2 rafters, replacement 1500 bucks about 5 years ago, now add
inflatation......

the OP has a serious problem that shouldnt be left go.

although i wouldnt have a new roof installed in the winter. the
shingles may never lay flat and poor seal is result

wrote
cshenk" wrote:

The dripping is from every interior door jamb. ?In fact, the exterior
doors are the only ones not dripping. ?I believe the dripping is from

Much as I hate to say it, but the estimate from the high end guy had what
you seem to need. ?If you do it now, it won't get worse. ?This is pretty
serious level roof problem and it can cost you the whole house if you
dont
fix it fast.

Do not be shocked if some of the rafters have to be replaced at this
stage.
My neighbors waited too long and didnt havwe the plywood fully replaced
when
I did. ?Some of them now are paying 35,000$ and up because the rafters
also
have to be replaced. ?I believe I was told the going rate there was
1,000$
each?

i believe the grand a piece estimate based on a friend who had a fire,
damaged 2 rafters, replacement 1500 bucks about 5 years ago, now add
inflatation......

Yup. Lets just say when we had ours done, he looked around and left fliers
and knocked on a few doors. Nothing obtrusive but the community was all
built at the same time and some were starting to sway just a tad like ours
(which didnt leak but we feared it would soon).

2 neighbors besides us had the roofs done, one by him, another with a
cheaper fellow who just added shingles. My house and the other done by him
are *perfect* but both of us needed some of the plywood replaced. Not at
all suprising in houses built 1961-1964. It was just 'time'.

The other person, is now having all the plywood replaced and some inner wood
by his fireplace (like me, he has one). *4* others now have major damage
with rafter replacements, some just a few, 1 extensive to the point where
they tented the house and took the whole thing off and put a new one on.

You cant drive more than 2 streets away now without seeing some roofing
company about. Simple to see why. After close to 50 years, the plywood has
to be replaced.

the OP has a serious problem that shouldnt be left go.

Absolutely. Experience here that is fortunately vicarious as we took care
of it in time.

although i wouldnt have a new roof installed in the winter. the
shingles may never lay flat and poor seal is result

He doesnt have a choice and I didnt note where he is so it may not be that
cold there. Roofers do work in winter and for some of us, thats actually a
'dryer time' so better than in summer.

On Feb 19, 8:29 am, JMartin wrote:
I have had three contractors out for my roof.

I have one layer of shingles. I have one big vent at the end of the
house, but bad moisture problems inside. Water drips from every door
jamb. I figure this is mostly the leaky roof, combined with non-
existent venting.

My siding is solid on the soffits/eaves/whatever you call it. I know
it's supposed to be the ventilated siding, but it's not.

One says $6200 for a tear off and total resheathing, new ridge/soffit
vents and 30 year shingles.

Next is $4800 for tear off, new shingles, new vents.

Third is $1400 to re-roof over the shingles. He says he can use a saw
to cut a hole to put ridge vents in and then add soffit ones.

Is Mr. Cheapo doable?

What about my siding? Will I have to replace that? I can't imagine a
vent can work if the siding is solid...

Thanks
Jena

Mr cheapo is probably not doable! Even with a recover, material costs
will average $50+ per square (100 S.F. coverage). I don't know how big
your roof is, but being at one third the middle of the road estimate,
sounds like a scam or this guy simply doesn't have a clue.

On Feb 22, 9:51 pm, "cshenk" wrote:
"JMartin" wrote

Theroofhas beenleakingfor over a year. The leak is in the
flashing around the chimney and also around a pole thing they put on
therooffor an antenna or something.T he decking does feel solid
when you walk on it. I have not inspected the attic.

Please do. I suspect you are in for a rude suprise.

The leak is evident inside. The ceiling has a hole and sags in that
room. At least two walls are also damaged and need new drywall. The
rest of the house does not show sagging ceilings, water damaged walls,
etc. They are lath/plaster walls.

The dripping is from every interior door jamb. In fact, the exterior
doors are the only ones not dripping. I believe the dripping is from

Much as I hate to say it, but the estimate from the high end guy had what
you seem to need. If you do it now, it won't get worse. This is pretty
serious levelroofproblem and it can cost you the whole house if you dont
fix it fast.

Do not be shocked if some of the rafters have to be replaced at this stage.
My neighbors waited too long and didnt havwe the plywood fully replaced when
I did. Some of them now are paying 35,000$ and up because the rafters also
have to be replaced. I believe I was told the going rate there was 1,000$
each?

try www.rooftech.com