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The Good Bohemian
 
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Default Beaver 6200 9" contractor ts - tehcnical questions



Good evening... If any of you collectors of older Beaver/Rockwell
table saws are listening, perhaps you could help?

Recently I picked up a 9" full cast contractor saw and I am in the
midst of tuning it as near to perfection as I can. The only things
left to tackle are the arbor run out problem and the possibility of
fitting a blade cover/splitter to it. This saw was never released with
a guard assembly offered so anyone with creative solutions, feel free
to comment (I'd rather not make one from scratch). Anyway...
I got a burst of initiative today and ripped the whole saw down limb
from limb. I took both the bearings out and I have found a source for
replacements locally. I also found a machine shop that said they'll
press the new ones in for $5-$10 on a lunch break. Sometimes you get
lucky...
I do have a little concern though... I have been noticing some
serious run out at the arbor (I've sanded, polished, etc. both of the
washers with no major improvement). Anyway, the flange or arbor washer
directly in front of the bearing closest to the blade... is it
supposed to be physically attached to the shaft or is it meant to be
removable? I managed to take it off but it required some careful blows
with a punch and dead mallet. Since I took it apart, I now know that
the chances of a warped shaft are slim to none. I am hoping that by
replacing both bearings and flanges/nuts, I should be good to go. Is
it normal for the arbor flange to have a **tiny** bit of play or is it
supposed to be 100% rock solid (before the nut is tightened down on
it)? The movement I found at the flange had nothing to do with the
bearings as the two pieces have a tiny gap between them (I was thinking
maybe some kind of spacer/snap ring went south). Should I replace the
washers and the bearings and call it a day or should I order a new
arbor assy also?? Thoughts??

Thanks again,

Andrew.
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Unisaw A100
 
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Default Beaver 6200 9" contractor ts - tehcnical questions

Andrew, The Good Bohemian wrote:
Good evening... If any of you collectors of older Beaver/Rockwell
table saws are listening, perhaps you could help?


We'll give it a go.

This saw was never released with a guard assembly offered


Are you sure of this? The 8" Beaver had a splitter/blade
guard so I'd suspect the 9" would also.

Anyway, the flange or arbor washer directly in front of the bearing
closest to the blade... is it supposed to be physically attached to
the shaft or is it meant to be removable?


On the parts drawing Beaver (Callander Foundry) has the
arbor (arbour David) and the flange called out with two item
numbers. The call the flange "Saw Mandrel Tight Collar". I
suspect it's supposed to be a press fit but I'm doubtful it
should be removable at will (without some effort). A
machinist can lightly knurl the shaft (mandrel) and
re-press it. Of course this could introduce some more play
so be wary of just anyone doing this for you if you know
what I mean.

Is it normal for the arbor flange to have a **tiny** bit of play or is it
supposed to be 100% rock solid (before the nut is tightened down on
it)? The movement I found at the flange had nothing to do with the
bearings as the two pieces have a tiny gap between them (I was thinking
maybe some kind of spacer/snap ring went south). Should I replace the
washers and the bearings and call it a day or should I order a new
arbor assy also?? Thoughts??


I would put back what you think went there be it a bearing
spacer or what. As for ordering a new assembly,
wheredoyougetone?

UA100
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The Good Bohemian
 
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Default Beaver 6200 9" contractor ts - tehcnical questions

In article , Unisaw A100
wrote:

Andrew, The Good Bohemian wrote:
Good evening... If any of you collectors of older Beaver/Rockwell
table saws are listening, perhaps you could help?


We'll give it a go.

This saw was never released with a guard assembly offered


Are you sure of this? The 8" Beaver had a splitter/blade
guard so I'd suspect the 9" would also.


According to both Delta and Ace Tools, the 6200 Beaver saws never hit
the market with a guard/splitter option. That being said, the 6201s
did have an add-on (part# 34037 - Blade Guard and Splitter). This
part# is nowhere to be found so I was searching some alternatives and
testing the water to see if there were any other folks in the same boat
as me.


I would put back what you think went there be it a bearing
spacer or what. As for ordering a new assembly,
wheredoyougetone?

UA100


The arbor assy. can be ordered both through Delta and also Ace Tools.
The original listing was 417-97-303-001 and was replaced with a
cross-over listing for it as #422-04-303-0005 (I think the Unisaws are
0003 but I am not certain off the top of my head). Anyway, I have no
problems with the $69.09 CDN price tag for the assy - I just wanted to
see if even the smallest fraction of play was normal. The advice about
taking the works to a machine shop may be the order of the day.


Thanks again for your help,

Andrew.
  #4   Report Post  
Ron
 
Posts: n/a
Default Beaver 6200 9" contractor ts - tehcnical questions

Hi The Good Bohemian
I also have an old Rockwell Beaver saw,mine is a 10" model 34050.
The bearing on the pulley side of the arbor let go and spun on the shaft
and ruined it.I called delta and ordered the arbour assy..They had one in
stock and were only $68 can.
If your saw has the same arbour as marked on this web site
http://www.acetoolrepair.com/DeltaHtml/6201.htm it is the same as
mine, so you could order one if you want.
As far as the blade guard I will post a picture of mine in abpw to show
you
how it is made.
PS
There is a C clip on the inside of the blade side bearing.

"The Good Bohemian" wrote in message
...


Good evening... If any of you collectors of older Beaver/Rockwell
table saws are listening, perhaps you could help?

Recently I picked up a 9" full cast contractor saw and I am in the
midst of tuning it as near to perfection as I can. The only things
left to tackle are the arbor run out problem and the possibility of
fitting a blade cover/splitter to it. This saw was never released with
a guard assembly offered so anyone with creative solutions, feel free
to comment (I'd rather not make one from scratch). Anyway...
I got a burst of initiative today and ripped the whole saw down limb
from limb. I took both the bearings out and I have found a source for
replacements locally. I also found a machine shop that said they'll
press the new ones in for $5-$10 on a lunch break. Sometimes you get
lucky...
I do have a little concern though... I have been noticing some
serious run out at the arbor (I've sanded, polished, etc. both of the
washers with no major improvement). Anyway, the flange or arbor washer
directly in front of the bearing closest to the blade... is it
supposed to be physically attached to the shaft or is it meant to be
removable? I managed to take it off but it required some careful blows
with a punch and dead mallet. Since I took it apart, I now know that
the chances of a warped shaft are slim to none. I am hoping that by
replacing both bearings and flanges/nuts, I should be good to go. Is
it normal for the arbor flange to have a **tiny** bit of play or is it
supposed to be 100% rock solid (before the nut is tightened down on
it)? The movement I found at the flange had nothing to do with the
bearings as the two pieces have a tiny gap between them (I was thinking
maybe some kind of spacer/snap ring went south). Should I replace the
washers and the bearings and call it a day or should I order a new
arbor assy also?? Thoughts??

Thanks again,

Andrew.



  #5   Report Post  
The Good Bohemian
 
Posts: n/a
Default Beaver 6200 9" contractor ts - tehcnical questions

In article , Ron
wrote:

Hi The Good Bohemian
I also have an old Rockwell Beaver saw,mine is a 10" model 34050.
The bearing on the pulley side of the arbor let go and spun on the shaft
and ruined it.I called delta and ordered the arbour assy..They had one in
stock and were only $68 can.
If your saw has the same arbour as marked on this web site
http://www.acetoolrepair.com/DeltaHtml/6201.htm it is the same as
mine, so you could order one if you want.
As far as the blade guard I will post a picture of mine in abpw to show
you
how it is made.
PS
There is a C clip on the inside of the blade side bearing.



Thanks Ron! About that c clip on the inside of the blade-side
bearing... I did find this and was able to remove it intact. I am
still skeptical as to how the washer is supposed to stay a 90d
alignment against the arbor flange when the flange is free to move.
Does this make sense? I think I will order the arbor assy if the re&re
of the bearings doesn't do the trick. This saw was easier to take
apart than I had originallt imagined...


I will go check out your pics... thanks again...




Andrew.


  #6   Report Post  
Ron
 
Posts: n/a
Default Beaver 6200 9" contractor ts - tehcnical questions

The flange on my arbor can only move back and fourth on the shaft with
extremely hard blows with a hammer.
Once the bearing is against the C clip and the flange against the bearing
there should be no play at all.


"The Good Bohemian" wrote in message
...
In article , Ron
wrote:

Hi The Good Bohemian
I also have an old Rockwell Beaver saw,mine is a 10" model 34050.
The bearing on the pulley side of the arbor let go and spun on the shaft
and ruined it.I called delta and ordered the arbour assy..They had one

in
stock and were only $68 can.
If your saw has the same arbour as marked on this web site
http://www.acetoolrepair.com/DeltaHtml/6201.htm it is the same as
mine, so you could order one if you want.
As far as the blade guard I will post a picture of mine in abpw to

show
you
how it is made.
PS
There is a C clip on the inside of the blade side bearing.



Thanks Ron! About that c clip on the inside of the blade-side
bearing... I did find this and was able to remove it intact. I am
still skeptical as to how the washer is supposed to stay a 90d
alignment against the arbor flange when the flange is free to move.
Does this make sense? I think I will order the arbor assy if the re&re
of the bearings doesn't do the trick. This saw was easier to take
apart than I had originallt imagined...


I will go check out your pics... thanks again...




Andrew.



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