Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

I'm looking to buy my first impact driver because I've got
lots of large screws to put in. I'm not a fan of normal
battery powered drills as I find the battery life too low
for a good working session and they are often underpowered.
Mains powered stuff tends to be cheaper too.

Do mains powered impact drivers exist? Can anyone recommend
one for under £100?
--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted.

David in Normandy says...
Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

I'm looking to buy my first impact driver because I've got
lots of large screws to put in. I'm not a fan of normal
battery powered drills as I find the battery life too low
for a good working session and they are often underpowered.
Mains powered stuff tends to be cheaper too.

Do mains powered impact drivers exist? Can anyone recommend
one for under £100?


Can anyone clear up my confusion please?

A silly question but - what is the difference between a
standard hammer drill and an impact driver drill? How can I
tell the difference (if there is any)?

I've already got both a standard hammer drill and an SDS
drill - that isn't an impact driver drill is it? It is one
of those drills that take the chisel bits and is brilliant
for drilling holes in tough rock.

Too many types of drill to get my head around :-(
--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted.

On 17 Mar, 14:26, David in Normandy wrote:
David in Normandy says...

Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

I'm looking to buy my first impact driver because I've got
lots of large screws to put in. I'm not a fan of normal
battery powered drills as I find the battery life too low
for a good working session and they are often underpowered.
Mains powered stuff tends to be cheaper too.

Do mains powered impact drivers exist? Can anyone recommend
one for under £100?

Can anyone clear up my confusion please?

A silly question but - what is the difference between a
standard hammer drill and an impact driver drill? How can I
tell the difference (if there is any)?

I've already got both a standard hammer drill and an SDS
drill - that isn't an impact driver drill is it? It is one
of those drills that take the chisel bits and is brilliant
for drilling holes in tough rock.

Too many types of drill to get my head around :-(
--
David in Normandy. * *
*To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
*subject line, or it will be automatically deleted.

I'm glad someone else has asked that. Can I add the question "why are
specialist drywall drivers needed" as I'd have thought that
plasterboard was one of the easiest materials to drill / drive
through? Is it a speed thing?

Matt

says...
On 17 Mar, 14:26, David in Normandy wrote:
David in Normandy says...

Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

I'm looking to buy my first impact driver because I've got
lots of large screws to put in. I'm not a fan of normal
battery powered drills as I find the battery life too low
for a good working session and they are often underpowered.
Mains powered stuff tends to be cheaper too.

Do mains powered impact drivers exist? Can anyone recommend
one for under £100?

Can anyone clear up my confusion please?

A silly question but - what is the difference between a
standard hammer drill and an impact driver drill? How can I
tell the difference (if there is any)?

I've already got both a standard hammer drill and an SDS
drill - that isn't an impact driver drill is it? It is one
of those drills that take the chisel bits and is brilliant
for drilling holes in tough rock.

Too many types of drill to get my head around :-(
--
David in Normandy. * *
*To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
*subject line, or it will be automatically deleted.

I'm glad someone else has asked that. Can I add the question "why are
specialist drywall drivers needed" as I'd have thought that
plasterboard was one of the easiest materials to drill / drive
through? Is it a speed thing?

Matt


Only a guess but I'd expect that low torque would be needed
putting screws into plasterboard otherwise they'd go too
deep. I wonder if you can get screw bits that have a
flattened "stop" either side of the business end - that
would stop the bit going too deep and make it disengage
when the screw had gone to the correct depth. If such
doesn't exist it would be a useful invention perhaps?
--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted.

In article ,
says...
Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

I'm looking to buy my first impact driver because I've got
lots of large screws to put in. I'm not a fan of normal
battery powered drills as I find the battery life too low
for a good working session and they are often underpowered.
Mains powered stuff tends to be cheaper too.

Do mains powered impact drivers exist? Can anyone recommend
one for under £100?

No, but I can highly reccomend the Bosch GDR10.8V-LI as a cheap
solution, it's about £120ish on eBay, and is a lithium batteried unit,
supplied with two of them. It'll also come with a 3 year warranty if
registered online with bosch, and it's part of the pro-series of kit so
it should keep going for a long, long time, both battery wise and
lifespan wise

I've got the GDR18V as part of my kit, and it's very good, rarely runs
out during the day on just one battery.
--
Alex Threlfall
Cyberprog New Media
www.cyberprog.net

"David in Normandy" wrote in message
...
David in Normandy says...
Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

I'm looking to buy my first impact driver because I've got
lots of large screws to put in. I'm not a fan of normal
battery powered drills as I find the battery life too low
for a good working session and they are often underpowered.
Mains powered stuff tends to be cheaper too.

Do mains powered impact drivers exist? Can anyone recommend
one for under £100?


Can anyone clear up my confusion please?

A silly question but - what is the difference between a
standard hammer drill and an impact driver drill? How can I
tell the difference (if there is any)?

I've already got both a standard hammer drill and an SDS
drill - that isn't an impact driver drill is it? It is one
of those drills that take the chisel bits and is brilliant
for drilling holes in tough rock.

A hammer drill would tend to be too quick for use as a screw driver.

mark

I've got the GDR18V as part of my kit, and it's very good, rarely runs
out during the day on just one battery.

I can run my GDR14.4V into the ground in 20 minutes or so - but only
if I'm continuously knocking 10*140mm multimonti into concrete. And
there's a 15 minute charger, so never without a fresh battery.

In more normal use, 6mm diameter screws into timber, I'd expect to
swap batteries 3 times a day.

To answer the OP's original question, I've never seen mains powered
impact drivers aimed at the building trade. They may exist (well
pneumatic ones definitely do), but I imagine they would be more aimed
at a production line environment.

I really wouldn't be concerned about lack of clout from cordless
impact drivers - the problem is more likely to be becoming gung-ho and
breaking a screw.

The trade's rapid uptake of cordless impact drivers tells it's own
story - it fulfilled a need.

On 2008-03-17 14:26:32 +0000, David in Normandy
said:

David in Normandy says...
Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

I'm looking to buy my first impact driver because I've got
lots of large screws to put in. I'm not a fan of normal
battery powered drills as I find the battery life too low
for a good working session and they are often underpowered.
Mains powered stuff tends to be cheaper too.

Do mains powered impact drivers exist? Can anyone recommend
one for under £100?


Can anyone clear up my confusion please?

A silly question but - what is the difference between a
standard hammer drill and an impact driver drill? How can I
tell the difference (if there is any)?

I've already got both a standard hammer drill and an SDS
drill - that isn't an impact driver drill is it? It is one
of those drills that take the chisel bits and is brilliant
for drilling holes in tough rock.

Too many types of drill to get my head around :-(

An impact driver is predominantly intended for driving fairly chunky
screws or lag bolts. A common application is in constructing outdoor
wooden structures when the main advantage is speed.

It's not an alternative to SDS drills or other types.

On 2008-03-17 16:07:46 +0000, said:

I'm glad someone else has asked that. Can I add the question "why are
specialist drywall drivers needed" as I'd have thought that
plasterboard was one of the easiest materials to drill / drive
through? Is it a speed thing?

Matt

It's a speed thing.


These drivers accept belts of screws. They originate from the U.S.
where common construction methods involve attaching 18mm ply to CLS
framing and drywall to it as well.

With correct adjustment, the driver positions the screws at precisely
the correct depth for the application. For drywalling, this involves
getting the screw so that the flat top is just below the surface but
without destroying the paper surface.

I bought a Senco one of these a few years ago in the U.S. for the
equivalent of about £100. Buckets of screws are readily available.

When cladding my workshop with ply, I completed the job in a couple of
hours vs. probably a day so well worth the investment. Other
projects since have meant that it's paid for several times over.

The win is because it's as fast as a nail gun, vs. drilling holes,
manually applying screws and driving them in. I would guess 2 seconds
per fixing vs. 10.

Andy Hall says...
On 2008-03-17 16:07:46 +0000, said:

I'm glad someone else has asked that. Can I add the question "why are
specialist drywall drivers needed" as I'd have thought that
plasterboard was one of the easiest materials to drill / drive
through? Is it a speed thing?

Matt

It's a speed thing.


These drivers accept belts of screws. They originate from the U.S.
where common construction methods involve attaching 18mm ply to CLS
framing and drywall to it as well.

With correct adjustment, the driver positions the screws at precisely
the correct depth for the application. For drywalling, this involves
getting the screw so that the flat top is just below the surface but
without destroying the paper surface.

I bought a Senco one of these a few years ago in the U.S. for the
equivalent of about £100. Buckets of screws are readily available.

When cladding my workshop with ply, I completed the job in a couple of
hours vs. probably a day so well worth the investment. Other
projects since have meant that it's paid for several times over.

The win is because it's as fast as a nail gun, vs. drilling holes,
manually applying screws and driving them in. I would guess 2 seconds
per fixing vs. 10.


Does that mean I don't need to pre-drill any holes to put
the screws in?

Can I use "ordinary" screws one at a time or do they have
to be fed on a belt?

--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted.

mark says...

"David in Normandy" wrote in message
...
David in Normandy says...
Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

I'm looking to buy my first impact driver because I've got
lots of large screws to put in. I'm not a fan of normal
battery powered drills as I find the battery life too low
for a good working session and they are often underpowered.
Mains powered stuff tends to be cheaper too.

Do mains powered impact drivers exist? Can anyone recommend
one for under £100?


Can anyone clear up my confusion please?

A silly question but - what is the difference between a
standard hammer drill and an impact driver drill? How can I
tell the difference (if there is any)?

I've already got both a standard hammer drill and an SDS
drill - that isn't an impact driver drill is it? It is one
of those drills that take the chisel bits and is brilliant
for drilling holes in tough rock.

A hammer drill would tend to be too quick for use as a screw driver.

mark




That makes sense. I use a standard mains drill for putting
in screws and I have to set the torque fairly low and be
careful to squeeze the trigger gently to use "slow start"
and be quick to release it when the screws are in to the
depth required. The drill doesn't cope so well with large
screws though, hence why I'm thinking of buying an impact
driver drill which others seem to rave about.
--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted.

On 2008-03-17 18:47:38 +0000, David in Normandy
said:

Does that mean I don't need to pre-drill any holes to put
the screws in?

Can I use "ordinary" screws one at a time or do they have
to be fed on a belt?


Straight in and they have to be on a belt.

Well they don't *have* to be, but then there is no speed advantage

Andy Hall says...
On 2008-03-17 18:47:38 +0000, David in Normandy
said:

Does that mean I don't need to pre-drill any holes to put
the screws in?

Can I use "ordinary" screws one at a time or do they have
to be fed on a belt?


Straight in and they have to be on a belt.

Well they don't *have* to be, but then there is no speed advantage


So presumably the screws are bought already on belts.
Two questions:

1. Are the screws specially made for impact drivers? I ask
because I know that if I tried to screw in some "normal"
screws into harder woods without pre-drilling holes they
would tend to shear off.

2. Are screws on belts more expensive than "normal" screws?
If so can the belts be reloaded using normal screws? I'm a
tight-wad and this sounds like a fun background activity
while watching a boring TV program. :-)
--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted.

In article ,
David in Normandy wrote:
A silly question but - what is the difference between a
standard hammer drill and an impact driver drill? How can I
tell the difference (if there is any)?

A hammer drill basically kicks in and out. An impact driver kicks in a
rotary direction. Rather like thumping a spanner to free a stuck bolt.
This 'kicking' is a more efficient way of using the power needed to
drive in a screw than plain continuous torque.

Impact drivers don't have a conventional chuck
- they take either hex bits direct if small, or square drive if larger.

Bosch haven't helped by calling their ordinary hammer drills impact ones.

--
*Taxation WITH representation ain't much fun, either.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

The drill doesn't cope so well with large
screws though, hence why I'm thinking of buying an impact
driver drill which others seem to rave about.

To be fair, these things work as a system. Many builders use a lot of
screws in a certain size, and mainly into softwood, that they know
will work well with an impact driver.

An impact driver will drive a screw straight into hardwood, but it may
split the wood or snap the screw (you still need to pre-drill, then
it's fine). An impact driver may break smaller (4mm or less) screws or
stainless steel screws (both are fine, but with care). Used (very)
recklessly, it may be able to pull the screw head right through softer
materials or strip the thread it has just cut. If you work with
whatever odd screws you have lying around, you may not get good
results.

However, when used into softwood with a self-drilling screw like this:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13787/...ld-Countersunk
it will produce phenomenally easy, fast and repeatable results,
producing a very secure fixing.

On 2008-03-17 19:23:35 +0000, David in Normandy
said:

Andy Hall says...
On 2008-03-17 18:47:38 +0000, David in Normandy
said:

Does that mean I don't need to pre-drill any holes to put
the screws in?

Can I use "ordinary" screws one at a time or do they have
to be fed on a belt?


Straight in and they have to be on a belt.

Well they don't *have* to be, but then there is no speed advantage


So presumably the screws are bought already on belts.

For drywall drivers, yes. For impact drivers they are separate.

Two questions:

1. Are the screws specially made for impact drivers? I ask
because I know that if I tried to screw in some "normal"
screws into harder woods without pre-drilling holes they
would tend to shear off.

Special bits.

Impact drivers typically have a 6.35mm socket fitting so are often used
with lag bolts with a hex head

I wouldn't use them with hardwoods anyway, although people do.


2. Are screws on belts more expensive than "normal" screws?
If so can the belts be reloaded using normal screws? I'm a
tight-wad and this sounds like a fun background activity
while watching a boring TV program. :-)

I buy them in the U.S. The are a bit more expensive than the loose
screws and are specially shaped for plasterboard to avoid cutting the
paper. The main point is the time saving. I suppose you could
reload the belts but it would be fiddly because the screws are clipped
in place by the belt design. It would probably take longer to load
them than to use. I know that French TV can be challenging, but
there is a limit.

David in Normandy wrote:
David in Normandy says...
Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

I'm looking to buy my first impact driver because I've got
lots of large screws to put in. I'm not a fan of normal
battery powered drills as I find the battery life too low
for a good working session and they are often underpowered.
Mains powered stuff tends to be cheaper too.

Do mains powered impact drivers exist? Can anyone recommend
one for under £100?


Can anyone clear up my confusion please?

I'll do me best Guv.

A silly question but - what is the difference between a
standard hammer drill and an impact driver drill? How can I
tell the difference (if there is any)?

They are two different animals.

A hammer drill vibrates the bit back & forth by a very small amount whilst
turning, to help when drilling masonry. The next step up from that is an
SDS drill which hammers the bit back & forth by a much larger amount whilst
turning.

The back & forth hammer action is no help when driving screws.

An Impact Driver is the next step up from a drill driver. When putting in
large screws with a drill driver, it will slow down as the screw goes in
because more resistance occurs. An impact driver starts by turning the
screw like a drill driver then senses the increased resistance &
automatically starts to hammer the bit around in a circular motion - not a
back & forth motion.

A 12v impact driver will put a 90mm x 6mm coach screw straight in, no pilot,
with contempuous ease. A 4mm x 60mm deck screws goes in so fast you can't
pick up another screw before the first one is driven in.

A drywall screwdriver is a belt fed drill driver, AFAIK belt fed impact
drivers don't exist yet. A drywall screwdriver also stops driving the screw
at a preset depth.

You can achieve this preset depth with a drywall bit holder.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...sfile=1&jump=0

HTH


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

wrote:
SNIP

However, when used into softwood with a self-drilling screw like this:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13787/...ld-Countersunk
it will produce phenomenally easy, fast and repeatable results,
producing a very secure fixing.

100% agreed, wonderful things. Turbo Gold Coach Screws are equally good.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman says...
David in Normandy wrote:
David in Normandy says...
Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

I'm looking to buy my first impact driver because I've got
lots of large screws to put in. I'm not a fan of normal
battery powered drills as I find the battery life too low
for a good working session and they are often underpowered.
Mains powered stuff tends to be cheaper too.

Do mains powered impact drivers exist? Can anyone recommend
one for under £100?


Can anyone clear up my confusion please?

I'll do me best Guv.

A silly question but - what is the difference between a
standard hammer drill and an impact driver drill? How can I
tell the difference (if there is any)?

They are two different animals.

A hammer drill vibrates the bit back & forth by a very small amount whilst
turning, to help when drilling masonry. The next step up from that is an
SDS drill which hammers the bit back & forth by a much larger amount whilst
turning.

The back & forth hammer action is no help when driving screws.

An Impact Driver is the next step up from a drill driver. When putting in
large screws with a drill driver, it will slow down as the screw goes in
because more resistance occurs. An impact driver starts by turning the
screw like a drill driver then senses the increased resistance &
automatically starts to hammer the bit around in a circular motion - not a
back & forth motion.

A 12v impact driver will put a 90mm x 6mm coach screw straight in, no pilot,
with contempuous ease. A 4mm x 60mm deck screws goes in so fast you can't
pick up another screw before the first one is driven in.

A drywall screwdriver is a belt fed drill driver, AFAIK belt fed impact
drivers don't exist yet. A drywall screwdriver also stops driving the screw
at a preset depth.

You can achieve this preset depth with a drywall bit holder.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...sfile=1&jump=0

HTH



Thanks for the reply. It's very clear now. Time to see if
the DIY sheds have one at a reasonable price. I'm not sure
what they are called here in France so I'll be looking for
"drills" that have a small hex chuck.

The drywall bit holder looks good too - I've got a mountain
of plasterboard to put up (several ceilings and dry lined
walls).


--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted.

In article 47dec0e6@qaanaaq, Andy Hall wrote:

On 2008-03-17 18:47:38 +0000, David in Normandy
said:

Does that mean I don't need to pre-drill any holes to put
the screws in?

Can I use "ordinary" screws one at a time or do they have
to be fed on a belt?


Straight in and they have to be on a belt.


Yes, you can use ordinary drywall screws and no, they don't have to be
on a belt:

http://www.kress-elektrik.de/en/prod...p?categorie=46
6


Well they don't *have* to be, but then there is no speed advantage


The speed advantage over using a conventional drill driver comes through
popping the screw into the nosepiece and the machine driving it to a
pre-set, repeatable depth.

On 2008-03-17 22:17:41 +0000, mike said:

In article 47dec0e6@qaanaaq, Andy Hall wrote:

On 2008-03-17 18:47:38 +0000, David in Normandy
said:

Does that mean I don't need to pre-drill any holes to put
the screws in?

Can I use "ordinary" screws one at a time or do they have
to be fed on a belt?


Straight in and they have to be on a belt.


Yes, you can use ordinary drywall screws and no, they don't have to be
on a belt:

http://www.kress-elektrik.de/en/prod...p?categorie=46
6


Well they don't *have* to be, but then there is no speed advantage


The speed advantage over using a conventional drill driver comes through
popping the screw into the nosepiece and the machine driving it to a
pre-set, repeatable depth.

Automatic feeding, thus saving the time to remove them from the box and
loading them with the tool, possibly dropping them on the floor.

David in Normandy wrote:

Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

Generally all battery powered (apart from the ones that run off
compressed air!)

I'm looking to buy my first impact driver because I've got
lots of large screws to put in. I'm not a fan of normal
battery powered drills as I find the battery life too low
for a good working session and they are often underpowered.

Not really an issue with impact drivers yet - it seems to be
predominantly the quality tool makers who do them (and ryobi!), so the
batts and chargers are usually pretty good.

Mains powered stuff tends to be cheaper too.

Not seen any...

Do mains powered impact drivers exist? Can anyone recommend
one for under £100?

If you already have a decent battey drill of some sort, then look for an
impact driver "body only" to save spending out on duplicate batteries
and chargers again. This will cut the cost of even the top end ones to
under £100.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

wrote:

I'm glad someone else has asked that. Can I add the question "why are
specialist drywall drivers needed" as I'd have thought that
plasterboard was one of the easiest materials to drill / drive
through? Is it a speed thing?

They are fast and light and do one job very well. Never run out of puff
and you tend to be near a mains socket when using them. So nothing you
can't do with another type of drill, but just optimised for the task.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

David in Normandy wrote:

Can anyone clear up my confusion please?

A silly question but - what is the difference between a
standard hammer drill and an impact driver drill? How can I
tell the difference (if there is any)?

Hammer drill hammers the bit back and forward to help pound it into the
hole it is drilling.

An impact driver hammers the bit round and round tending to give very
high torque in discrete blows. Much like the air powered wrenches that
tyre places use to undo wheel nuts.

I've already got both a standard hammer drill and an SDS
drill - that isn't an impact driver drill is it? It is one

no...

of those drills that take the chisel bits and is brilliant
for drilling holes in tough rock.

Too many types of drill to get my head around :-(

You could try he

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/index.htm

and a couple that never made it to the faq:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Impact_driver
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Wall_chaser

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

David in Normandy wrote:

Only a guess but I'd expect that low torque would be needed
putting screws into plasterboard otherwise they'd go too
deep. I wonder if you can get screw bits that have a
flattened "stop" either side of the business end - that
would stop the bit going too deep and make it disengage
when the screw had gone to the correct depth. If such
doesn't exist it would be a useful invention perhaps?

Too late:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/46278/...Phillips-2-5Pk

These work very well - pop the driver off the screw once it is set just
deep enough.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

wrote:

I really wouldn't be concerned about lack of clout from cordless
impact drivers - the problem is more likely to be becoming gung-ho and
breaking a screw.

Indeed, my 18V one is a little too powerful really - it can go through
bits at quite a rate.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Indeed, my 18V one is a little too powerful really - it can go through
bits at quite a rate.

I can get through PZ2's, but rarely break a PZ3. Top quality diamond
bits (Wiha or Wera) and remembering to swap batteries the moment it
starts to get juddery, reduce the problem. It's always when I'm
getting the last 1 or 2 screws in before swapping batteries that I
break a bit.

wrote:

Indeed, my 18V one is a little too powerful really - it can go through
bits at quite a rate.

I can get through PZ2's, but rarely break a PZ3. Top quality diamond

PZ3s are more robust, although I have still broken one or two. Got
through four PZ2s the other day though.

bits (Wiha or Wera) and remembering to swap batteries the moment it

Yup, that is what I usually use.

starts to get juddery, reduce the problem. It's always when I'm

Mine does not seem to get juddery. Main danger seems to be allowing it
to rattle in the head of the screw too much, or when you hit some
unturnable obstruction and cam out.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
says...
wrote:

Indeed, my 18V one is a little too powerful really - it can go through
bits at quite a rate.

I can get through PZ2's, but rarely break a PZ3. Top quality diamond

PZ3s are more robust, although I have still broken one or two. Got
through four PZ2s the other day though.

bits (Wiha or Wera) and remembering to swap batteries the moment it

Yup, that is what I usually use.

starts to get juddery, reduce the problem. It's always when I'm

Mine does not seem to get juddery. Main danger seems to be allowing it
to rattle in the head of the screw too much, or when you hit some
unturnable obstruction and cam out.



The trick is in buying a sufficently expensive PZ2 i've found, and they
tend to be a hell of a lot harder. I got through quite a few until i
applied the same methodolgy to it that I applied to the purchase of the
drill... buy the best and most expensive Seems to work... though I am
permanently broke...
--
Alex Threlfall
Cyberprog New Media
www.cyberprog.net

Alex Threlfall wrote:
In article ,
says...
wrote:

Indeed, my 18V one is a little too powerful really - it can go
through bits at quite a rate.

I can get through PZ2's, but rarely break a PZ3. Top quality diamond

PZ3s are more robust, although I have still broken one or two. Got
through four PZ2s the other day though.

bits (Wiha or Wera) and remembering to swap batteries the moment it

Yup, that is what I usually use.

starts to get juddery, reduce the problem. It's always when I'm

Mine does not seem to get juddery. Main danger seems to be allowing
it to rattle in the head of the screw too much, or when you hit some
unturnable obstruction and cam out.



The trick is in buying a sufficently expensive PZ2 i've found, and
they tend to be a hell of a lot harder. I got through quite a few
until i applied the same methodolgy to it that I applied to the
purchase of the drill... buy the best and most expensive Seems to
work... though I am permanently broke...

Hmmm. My experience is the opposite. I buy the Wickes 20 for £3:99 PZ2 bits
and find they last surprisingly well in my Makita 12v impact driver - and
they are cheap enough to replace at the slightest sign of cam out.

HFC

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

David in Normandy wrote:

Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

In fact, I just found one:

http://www.makitauk.com/index.php?pa...tid=89&open=89


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Alex Threlfall wrote:
In article ,
says...
wrote:

Indeed, my 18V one is a little too powerful really - it can go
through bits at quite a rate.
I can get through PZ2's, but rarely break a PZ3. Top quality diamond
PZ3s are more robust, although I have still broken one or two. Got
through four PZ2s the other day though.

bits (Wiha or Wera) and remembering to swap batteries the moment it
Yup, that is what I usually use.

starts to get juddery, reduce the problem. It's always when I'm
Mine does not seem to get juddery. Main danger seems to be allowing
it to rattle in the head of the screw too much, or when you hit some
unturnable obstruction and cam out.



The trick is in buying a sufficently expensive PZ2 i've found, and
they tend to be a hell of a lot harder. I got through quite a few
until i applied the same methodolgy to it that I applied to the
purchase of the drill... buy the best and most expensive Seems to
work... though I am permanently broke...

Hmmm. My experience is the opposite. I buy the Wickes 20 for £3:99 PZ2 bits
and find they last surprisingly well in my Makita 12v impact driver - and
they are cheap enough to replace at the slightest sign of cam out.

I find ordinary steel bits will last maybe one or two screws! Next time
I am in Wicks I will get some to try and see. (perhaps it is a
reflection of the different driver (20Nm extra torque on the 18V
driver), or the different screws (mainly driving Screwfix twinthread
Quicksilver countersunk screws).

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm says...
David in Normandy wrote:

Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

In fact, I just found one:

http://www.makitauk.com/index.php?pa...tid=89&open=89



That looks like exactly what I want! Thank you.
The prices seem to vary a bit online between £70 and £130
plus delivery. Screwfix doesn't seem to stock that model
but there seem to be no shortage of other suppliers.
Now to see if I can find a trustworthy online supplier at
the lower end of the sale price.

--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted.

John Rumm wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Alex Threlfall wrote:
In article ,
says...
wrote:

Indeed, my 18V one is a little too powerful really - it can go
through bits at quite a rate.
I can get through PZ2's, but rarely break a PZ3. Top quality
diamond
PZ3s are more robust, although I have still broken one or two. Got
through four PZ2s the other day though.

bits (Wiha or Wera) and remembering to swap batteries the moment
it
Yup, that is what I usually use.

starts to get juddery, reduce the problem. It's always when I'm
Mine does not seem to get juddery. Main danger seems to be allowing
it to rattle in the head of the screw too much, or when you hit
some unturnable obstruction and cam out.



The trick is in buying a sufficently expensive PZ2 i've found, and
they tend to be a hell of a lot harder. I got through quite a few
until i applied the same methodolgy to it that I applied to the
purchase of the drill... buy the best and most expensive Seems to
work... though I am permanently broke...

Hmmm. My experience is the opposite. I buy the Wickes 20 for £3:99
PZ2 bits and find they last surprisingly well in my Makita 12v
impact driver - and they are cheap enough to replace at the
slightest sign of cam out.

I find ordinary steel bits will last maybe one or two screws! Next
time I am in Wicks I will get some to try and see. (perhaps it is a
reflection of the different driver (20Nm extra torque on the 18V
driver), or the different screws (mainly driving Screwfix twinthread
Quicksilver countersunk screws).

I'd reckon at least half a box of decking screws on a bit. Thats half of a
box of 350.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

John Rumm wrote:
David in Normandy wrote:

Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

In fact, I just found one:

http://www.makitauk.com/index.php?pa...tid=89&open=89


Looks interesting that, might buy one for decking jobs. Only 100Nm torque
compared to 135Nm on the 12v Makita. More than enough mind, but you expect
more wellie from a mains jobby.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"David in Normandy" wrote in message
...
John Rumm says...
David in Normandy wrote:

Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

In fact, I just found one:

http://www.makitauk.com/index.php?pa...tid=89&open=89

That looks like exactly what I want! Thank you.
The prices seem to vary a bit online between £70 and £130
plus delivery. Screwfix doesn't seem to stock that model
but there seem to be no shortage of other suppliers.
Now to see if I can find a trustworthy online supplier at
the lower end of the sale price.


Reputable dealer @ £75 inc P&P

http://www.itslondon.co.uk/ProductDe...ode=MAK2406951

This looks superb for DIY work - and pro too. Cheap enough as well.
Although the 12V Sparky at S/fix looks excellent value. No batteries to run
down or replace. All you need is an extension cord. The 100NM is a bit low
though. The 12v to 18v models average around 140.

Doctor Drivel wrote:

"David in Normandy" wrote in message
...
John Rumm says...
David in Normandy wrote:

Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

In fact, I just found one:

http://www.makitauk.com/index.php?pa...tid=89&open=89

That looks like exactly what I want! Thank you.
The prices seem to vary a bit online between £70 and £130
plus delivery. Screwfix doesn't seem to stock that model
but there seem to be no shortage of other suppliers.
Now to see if I can find a trustworthy online supplier at
the lower end of the sale price.


Reputable dealer @ £75 inc P&P

http://www.itslondon.co.uk/ProductDe...ode=MAK2406951

This looks superb for DIY work - and pro too. Cheap enough as well.
Although the 12V Sparky at S/fix looks excellent value. No batteries to
run down or replace. All you need is an extension cord. The 100NM is a
bit low though. The 12v to 18v models average around 140.


Well if you want a bit more torque, you could always get one of these
(especially the one at the bottom):

http://www.makitauk.com/index.php?page=36&catid=68&open=68

Bung in a cheap adaptor from a pound shop and slot in a screwdriver
bit... :-)

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

"Rod" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel wrote:

"David in Normandy" wrote in message
...
John Rumm says...
David in Normandy wrote:

Do they exist or are they all battery powered?

In fact, I just found one:

http://www.makitauk.com/index.php?pa...tid=89&open=89

That looks like exactly what I want! Thank you.
The prices seem to vary a bit online between £70 and £130
plus delivery. Screwfix doesn't seem to stock that model
but there seem to be no shortage of other suppliers.
Now to see if I can find a trustworthy online supplier at
the lower end of the sale price.


Reputable dealer @ £75 inc P&P

http://www.itslondon.co.uk/ProductDe...ode=MAK2406951

This looks superb for DIY work - and pro too. Cheap enough as well.
Although the 12V Sparky at S/fix looks excellent value. No batteries to
run down or replace. All you need is an extension cord. The 100NM is a
bit low though. The 12v to 18v models average around 140.

Well if you want a bit more torque, you could always get one of these
(especially the one at the bottom):

http://www.makitauk.com/index.php?page=36&catid=68&open=68

Bung in a cheap adaptor from a pound shop and slot in a screwdriver bit...
:-)

Many Impact Wrenches have variable speed triggers too. The difference may
not be that great between the Impact drivers and wrenches.

Mian Impact Drivers are plentiful and cheap enough.