I'm about to paint my exterior woodwork. It's not in back nick - but
the paint on some of the openers is cracked. They're 1910's window
frames, south facing so get loads of sun / wind. A few questions:

1. What brand of paint would you recommend? Which recommends
Hicksons or Johnstone's Stormshield ... however they didn't include
Dulux. I guess I'm most interested in durability rather than say,
appearance or ease of use. (It's not a job I want to re-do for as long
as possible).

2. They're currently a horrible baby blue & I want to paint them
white. I'm wondering if I'm really going to need to strip all of the
old paint or can make do with sanding? Does it make much of a
difference if it's microporous paint.

Any other top tips would be welcome -

Thanks,

Michael

wrote:
I'm about to paint my exterior woodwork. It's not in back nick - but
the paint on some of the openers is cracked. They're 1910's window
frames, south facing so get loads of sun / wind. A few questions:

1. What brand of paint would you recommend? Which recommends
Hicksons or Johnstone's Stormshield ... however they didn't include
Dulux. I guess I'm most interested in durability rather than say,
appearance or ease of use. (It's not a job I want to re-do for as long
as possible).

I use AKZO with good results - but the real secret of paint longevity is the
preparation.

2. They're currently a horrible baby blue & I want to paint them
white. I'm wondering if I'm really going to need to strip all of the
old paint or can make do with sanding?

Use the following method and you should get good results:

1 Wash and rub down the paintwork to remove flaking paint and expose any
defects such as rot.
2 Repair any defects in the woodwork and window putties.
3 Spot prime any bare and new woodwork and filler [1] (use *oil* *based*
primer and not acrylic primer/undercoat).
4 Rub down and apply two coats of undercoat (*oil* *based*), rubbing down
between each coat.
5 Apply two coats of gloss paint (again oil based), rubbing down between
coats.

If you take your time and diligently prepare the surfaces and paint only in
dry weather, then you should get at least a five year life on the paintwork
in most areas (coastal areas causing some problems) - *AND* avoid using
acrylic or water based paints like the plague for external works.

[1] Use something like a Timbafil
(http://www.agwoodcare.co.uk/show_product.php?id=26) for filling holes and
cracks.

"Does it make much of a difference if it's microporous paint"

Have a read of this article and see what you think of the stuff. Personally
I prefer the method that I have used for a long as I can remember for
outside work.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/property/.../03/pask03.xml

(or a shorter link) http://tinyurl.com/ypjrpe

All the best

BRG

On 16 Mar, 21:55, "BRG" wrote:

"Does it make much of a difference if it's microporous paint"

Have a read of this article and see what you think of the stuff. *Personally
I prefer the method that I have used for a long as I can remember for
outside work.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/property/...AILS&grid=P8&x....


Hmmm - I hadn't seen that before about microporous paint. Is that a
fairly generally held view or does anyone know if, 2 1/2 years since
it was written, it's been proved one way or the other?

Michael

On Mar 18, 5:37*pm, wrote:
On 16 Mar, 21:55, "BRG" wrote:

"Does it make much of a difference if it's microporous paint"

Have a read of this article and see what you think of the stuff. *Personally
I prefer the method that I have used for a long as I can remember for
outside work.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/property/...AILS&grid=P8&x....

Hmmm - I hadn't seen that before about microporous paint. *Is that a
fairly generally held view or does anyone know if, 2 1/2 years since
it was written, it's been proved one way or the other?

Michael

I'd have a look at the Sikkens/Akzo site, maybe contact them and see
what they recommend:

http://www.sikkens.co.uk/en/Products/Product+Selector/

I wouldn't worry too much about what a newspaper column says,
especially if there's no facts or credentials to back it up.

cheers,
Pete