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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Concrete setting
Last week my lodger had his motorbike nicked from our front drive.
Fortunately it's now been recovered (tracking device) but he's obviously keen to secure it more firmly now. We've just spend the morning creating a hardpoint in the drive to bolt a new attachment plate to. We dug a hole about 500x500mm, and 300mm deep, and filled it with B & Q idiot-grade ready-mix concrete (neither of us have done much of this sort of thing before). The steel plate is to be bolted onto this with expanding bolts. How long does the panel think it might be befo 1. It's OK to roll the bike over the concrete so that it can be parked in its normal spot and 2. we can drill the concrete and fix the bolts? I've assumed that 1. will be ok by tomorrow, but maybe 2. will be a few days? Any further suggestions for motorbike theft protection considered, too :-) Cheers, Pete |
#2
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Concrete setting
"Pete Verdon" d wrote in message ... Last week my lodger had his motorbike nicked from our front drive. Fortunately it's now been recovered (tracking device) but he's obviously keen to secure it more firmly now. We've just spend the morning creating a hardpoint in the drive to bolt a new attachment plate to. We dug a hole about 500x500mm, and 300mm deep, and filled it with B & Q idiot-grade ready-mix concrete (neither of us have done much of this sort of thing before). The steel plate is to be bolted onto this with expanding bolts. I'm sure it will be a big help having the bike bolted to that but I wouldn't exactly call it bulletproof. That's about 350lbs of concrete, so not even as heavy as the bike, which a couple of blokes will lift out of the earth fairly easily. I'd have been tempted to drive a steel fence post or two into the bottom of the hole to a depth of a further couple of feet and then lay the concrete around those. Maybe even have a couple of bolts sticking out of the posts for the concrete to set round. That would anchor everything pretty immoveably. -- Dave Baker Puma Race Engines |
#3
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Concrete setting
Dave Baker wrote:
"Pete Verdon" d wrote We dug a hole about 500x500mm, and 300mm deep, and filled it with B & Q idiot-grade ready-mix concrete (neither of us have done much of this sort of thing before). The steel plate is to be bolted onto this with expanding bolts. I'm sure it will be a big help having the bike bolted to that but I wouldn't exactly call it bulletproof. Neither would I. But the only way to be certain that the bike won't be stolen from the drive is not to have it there in the first place. At this point I would expect the lock or chain to be the weak link rather than the concrete. The bike will be directly on top of the block, and it's between a pair of parked cars, so it's not going to be easy to work on. He did look at something like this: http://www.secure-a-bike.com/ but didn't want to pay quite that much, plus we don't really have the space. Pete |
#4
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Concrete setting
In message , Pete Verdon
d writes Any further suggestions for motorbike theft protection considered, too :-) Http://www.bikesecure.co.uk/pages/alarm_mine.html Cheers, Pete -- Bill |
#5
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Concrete setting
Dave Baker wrote:
"Pete Verdon" d wrote in message ... Last week my lodger had his motorbike nicked from our front drive. Fortunately it's now been recovered (tracking device) but he's obviously keen to secure it more firmly now. We've just spend the morning creating a hardpoint in the drive to bolt a new attachment plate to. We dug a hole about 500x500mm, and 300mm deep, and filled it with B & Q idiot-grade ready-mix concrete (neither of us have done much of this sort of thing before). The steel plate is to be bolted onto this with expanding bolts. I'm sure it will be a big help having the bike bolted to that but I wouldn't exactly call it bulletproof. That's about 350lbs of concrete, so not even as heavy as the bike, which a couple of blokes will lift out of the earth fairly easily. I'd have been tempted to drive a steel fence post or two into the bottom of the hole to a depth of a further couple of feet and then lay the concrete around those. Maybe even have a couple of bolts sticking out of the posts for the concrete to set round. That would anchor everything pretty immoveably. -- Indeed - if you drive a few lengths of scrap iron downwards/outwards (like roots) and then cover them with the concrete it's practically impossible to remove without breaking up a large area. Hindsight advice is rarely helpful, but while we're here I'll suggest that it would also have been better to cast the fixing point in the new patch of concrete, rather than drill it (which will loosen it, and maybe even crack it). A short length of heavy chain or a closed loop of steel cable, for example. |
#6
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Concrete setting
Steve Walker wrote:
Hindsight advice is rarely helpful, but while we're here I'll suggest that it would also have been better to cast the fixing point in the new patch of concrete, Yup, we thought of that just as we were finishing off :-) On the other hand, we would have needed more than just some random bit of scrap steel - that would have been too easy to cut with a hacksaw or bolt-cutters. Pete Pete |
#7
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Concrete setting
Bill wrote:
Pete Verdon writes Any further suggestions for motorbike theft protection considered, too Http://www.bikesecure.co.uk/pages/alarm_mine.html Heh. Unfortunately our drive is a bit too cramped to mark off an area as a minefield :-) Pete |
#8
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Concrete setting
Steve Walker wrote:
Dave Baker wrote: "Pete Verdon" d wrote in message ... Last week my lodger had his motorbike nicked from our front drive. Fortunately it's now been recovered (tracking device) but he's obviously keen to secure it more firmly now. We've just spend the morning creating a hardpoint in the drive to bolt a new attachment plate to. We dug a hole about 500x500mm, and 300mm deep, and filled it with B & Q idiot-grade ready-mix concrete (neither of us have done much of this sort of thing before). The steel plate is to be bolted onto this with expanding bolts. I'm sure it will be a big help having the bike bolted to that but I wouldn't exactly call it bulletproof. That's about 350lbs of concrete, so not even as heavy as the bike, which a couple of blokes will lift out of the earth fairly easily. I'd have been tempted to drive a steel fence post or two into the bottom of the hole to a depth of a further couple of feet and then lay the concrete around those. Maybe even have a couple of bolts sticking out of the posts for the concrete to set round. That would anchor everything pretty immoveably. -- Indeed - if you drive a few lengths of scrap iron downwards/outwards (like roots) and then cover them with the concrete it's practically impossible to remove without breaking up a large area. Hindsight advice is rarely helpful, but while we're here I'll suggest that it would also have been better to cast the fixing point in the new patch of concrete, rather than drill it (which will loosen it, and maybe even crack it). A short length of heavy chain or a closed loop of steel cable, for example. what's to stop people unscrewing the bolts? I'd have cast some stainless U-bolts into the concrete |
#9
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Concrete setting
On 08/03/2008 18:03, Dave Baker wrote:
I'm sure it will be a big help having the bike bolted to that but I wouldn't exactly call it bulletproof. Indeed, a chap down the road had a large bike, with a large chain through a large anchor on the garage floor, and nobody heard a peep the night it was nicked. |
#10
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Concrete setting
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Steve Walker wrote: Indeed - if you drive a few lengths of scrap iron downwards/outwards (like roots) and then cover them with the concrete it's practically impossible to remove without breaking up a large area. Hindsight advice is rarely helpful, but while we're here I'll suggest that it would also have been better to cast the fixing point in the new patch of concrete, rather than drill it (which will loosen it, and maybe even crack it). A short length of heavy chain or a closed loop of steel cable, for example. what's to stop people unscrewing the bolts? What bolts? I'd have cast some stainless U-bolts into the concrete Yeah, that would be good with big washers or a bit of scrap steel to resist pullout. |
#11
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Concrete setting
Andy Burns wrote:
On 08/03/2008 18:03, Dave Baker wrote: I'm sure it will be a big help having the bike bolted to that but I wouldn't exactly call it bulletproof. Indeed, a chap down the road had a large bike, with a large chain through a large anchor on the garage floor, and nobody heard a peep the night it was nicked. OK, let's agree that it's not perfect, but still an improvement over a bike chained to nothing at all. Can anyone actually answer the questions about the concrete? Pete |
#12
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Concrete setting
Pete Verdon wrote:
Andy Burns wrote: On 08/03/2008 18:03, Dave Baker wrote: I'm sure it will be a big help having the bike bolted to that but I wouldn't exactly call it bulletproof. Indeed, a chap down the road had a large bike, with a large chain through a large anchor on the garage floor, and nobody heard a peep the night it was nicked. OK, let's agree that it's not perfect, but still an improvement over a bike chained to nothing at all. Can anyone actually answer the questions about the concrete? Pete Give it 2 days and you can do what you want. Until then its going to be very soft. NT |
#13
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Concrete setting
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#14
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Concrete setting
On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 18:59:14 +0000, Pete Verdon
d wrote: Bill wrote: Pete Verdon writes Any further suggestions for motorbike theft protection considered, too Http://www.bikesecure.co.uk/pages/alarm_mine.html Heh. Unfortunately our drive is a bit too cramped to mark off an area as a minefield :-) Pete Tell him to paint it pink. Get some CCTV. -- http://www.orderonlinepickupinstore.co.uk Ah fetch it yourself if you can't wait for delivery http://www.freedeliveryuk.co.uk Or get it delivered for free |
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