Hello,

I've posted before about my canopy garage door breaking. From the
replies I received, I am thinking that I might fit a roller door as a
replacement. I understand they are more secure and more draught-proof
than canopy or retractable doors. Am I right?

How easy are they to fit? I presume you have to lift them 7 foot high
and fix to the wall. Are they heavy? Do you need a man at each end or
is extra support required?

If I get a motorised one, can they be opened by hand if there is a
power cut?

Thanks.

On 2007-12-27 14:05:18 +0000, Fred said:

Hello,

I've posted before about my canopy garage door breaking. From the
replies I received, I am thinking that I might fit a roller door as a
replacement. I understand they are more secure and more draught-proof
than canopy or retractable doors. Am I right?

It depends.

Roller doors run in tracks and hence can be more draught proof than a
cheap canopy or retractable door that closes against a frame.

However, a well designed and made canopy or retractable door can be
completely draught proof.

When I was replacing my doors I did look at roller doors because they
do have the advantage of closing into a very small space and run
vertically. I looked at build quality as well and found that there
are good products and some absolute rubbish on the market. The low
end ones are really quite flimsy and I am not convinced would be more
secure than a canopy or retracting door - possibly less so because the
mechanical strength comes mainly from the shape and thickness of the
slats and there is little to stiffen them. The more substantial
ones have a kind of box construction. That can be interesting as
well because it gives the possibility of the door being insulated.
However..... They are aesthetically awful, giving the appearance of
something better suited to an industrial estate. Equally, depending
on the surroundings - i.e. all modern houses and others having roller
doors as well, then perhaps not too bad.




How easy are they to fit? I presume you have to lift them 7 foot high
and fix to the wall. Are they heavy? Do you need a man at each end or
is extra support required?

All garage door fitting is really a two person job to do safely.


If I get a motorised one, can they be opened by hand if there is a
power cut?

Usually, yes.

Fred wrote:
Hello,

I've posted before about my canopy garage door breaking. From the
replies I received, I am thinking that I might fit a roller door as a
replacement. I understand they are more secure and more draught-proof
than canopy or retractable doors. Am I right?

How easy are they to fit? I presume you have to lift them 7 foot high
and fix to the wall. Are they heavy? Do you need a man at each end or
is extra support required?

If I get a motorised one, can they be opened by hand if there is a
power cut?

All of this based only on our personal experience with one door :

- secure?
Yes - very solid, fixed securely into metal runners at each side and
tamperproof locks when closed.

- draught-proof?
Yes - our integrated garage has a double-skinned insulated one, and the room
easily keeps domestic warmth levels. No discernable draughts at all, and no
rain gets in thanks to rubber gasket at foot of blind (which also contains
pressure switch for crushing safety)

- easy to fit?
From observing the contractors, I'd have no worries about doing it.

- lift them 7 foot high and fix to the wall?
Yes - you premount steel brackets like a giant roller blind, premount metal
runners in the opening, and then you'd need two people to lift and slot into
place - simple mains wiring for power-lift.

- opened by hand?
Came with electronic rolling-code remotes, a wall-mounted switch and a
manual crank like a jack-handle

Overall, highly recommended. Our only problem has been with fancy-pants
safety issues - the damned thing went through a phase of imagining an
obstruction and stopping halfway down until button repressed repeatedly,
would've cheerfully paid extra to have a plain version with just up &
down...

"Fred" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I've posted before about my canopy garage door breaking. From the
replies I received, I am thinking that I might fit a roller door as a
replacement. I understand they are more secure and more draught-proof
than canopy or retractable doors. Am I right?

How easy are they to fit? I presume you have to lift them 7 foot high
and fix to the wall. Are they heavy? Do you need a man at each end or
is extra support required?

If I get a motorised one, can they be opened by hand if there is a
power cut?

Thanks.

I bought an Ideal SFL38 sectional door like:

http://www.idealdoors.com/DAM-Mirror...DP38_SFL38.pdf

a few years ago from some long gone importer in Wales.

Much nicer looking than a roller door. Also about 5cm thick and insulated.

The door is "sprung" with a pair of coil springs. You can open/shut it
with one finger though I motorized mine.

2 man installation. Does what it says on the datasheet. It's cool.

david

On 27 Dec, 18:43, "Vortex" wrote:
"Fred" wrote in message

...

Hello,

I've posted before about my canopy garage door breaking. From the
replies I received, I am thinking that I might fit a roller door as a
replacement. I understand they are more secure and more draught-proof
than canopy or retractable doors. Am I right?

How easy are they to fit? I presume you have to lift them 7 foot high
and fix to the wall. Are they heavy? Do you need a man at each end or
is extra support required?

If I get a motorised one, can they be opened by hand if there is a
power cut?

Thanks.

I bought an Ideal SFL38 sectional door like:

http://www.idealdoors.com/DAM-Mirror...DP38_SFL38.pdf

a few years ago from some long gone importer in Wales.

Much nicer looking than a roller door. *Also about 5cm thick and insulated.

The door is "sprung" *with a pair of coil springs. *You can open/shut it
with one finger though I motorized mine.

2 man installation. *Does what it says on the datasheet. *It's cool.

david

We have had a purpose made roller door, (Made in Australia would you
believe), for over 15 years now. Electrically operated. Motor is a
wiper motor out of a GM truck I believe. I replaced it once. It has a
sensitivity setting for safety obstruction and is adjustable very
simply for top and bottom travel. It does take notions. Opens part way
and then drops back etc. I have a notion this is weather/temperature
related but never studied it. I used to re-set the sensitivity each
time it acted up but discovered that if left to itself it came to its
senses after a day or two so now I leave it alone. Despite the top and
bottom travel being mechanical controlled it can still slip. Usually
it doesn't close the last inch or two but it is easily sorted.

I'd be leary of fitting one myself. The very large spring has to be
tensioned and with our double door width it takes a lot of tension.
I'd hate to see it break loose. (The door is tensioned to neutral
bouyancy if you understand me). The motor the has very little work to
do. When tensioned correctly the door could be lifted with a finger.

On our door the motor can be dis-engaged from the gear allowing the
door be opened by hand. In case of a power cut you would need a
separate access door to allow one do this. I rigged up a remote
release with string and chewing gum which drops down the side of the
side door so one can just reach in and pull down on this to release
the motor. One can then open the door from the outside.

It is very secure as when the motor is in gear it is impossible to
push the door up against it. Somewhat like tyring to push a car when
its in gear I suppose.

Regrettably the roller door is not insulated so while the garage
(Workshop actually. Never had a car in it and we have a separate small
shed for garden machinery so even the lawnmowers don't see the inside
of it) , is perfectly dry, humidity is a problem. When the
temperature drops on a a cold evening condensation forms on the cold
surfaces of the machinery which can lead to surface rust.


Paul Mc Cann

"Fred" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I've posted before about my canopy garage door breaking. From the
replies I received, I am thinking that I might fit a roller door as a
replacement. I understand they are more secure and more draught-proof
than canopy or retractable doors. Am I right?

How easy are they to fit? I presume you have to lift them 7 foot high
and fix to the wall. Are they heavy? Do you need a man at each end or
is extra support required?

If I get a motorised one, can they be opened by hand if there is a
power cut?

Hi Fred,

I ordered one mid December for DIY install and I'm due to collect it within
the next few days. This after putting some effort into motorising my own
canopy door. Basically I changed my mind after getting it working and
decided its time I fitted a complete new door. The one I have on order is
double skinned, insulated, draught proof and remote control motorised. They
make them
up to your specified size ready to install and it comes direct from the
factory, so no middlemen and a fraction of the usual cost. How good or bad
it will be I don't yet know until I get my hands on it, but its spec reads
as good as the best I have looked at.

From what I have read, installation sounds much easier than other door
types. Basically fix the mounting plate over the door, fix the vertical
runners, install the gear in the plate brackets, then ease the actual door
in over the top of the gear and down into the runners. The supplier suggests
it
is all quite easy and light to handle for a single width door.

I don't know how mine will deal with power cuts - I'm sure there must be
some provision, but it is not a great concern to me. Some have a manual
cranking handle from the inside or outside, others simply allow you to
disconnect the motor and push the door up by hand. I have two other ways in,
so it will not be an insurmountable problem.

Now if you want to email me off the list, feel free - I'll let you know how
it goes and put you in touch with the supplier if you wish.


--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT)

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
...

"Fred" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I've posted before about my canopy garage door breaking. From the
replies I received, I am thinking that I might fit a roller door
as a
replacement. I understand they are more secure and more
draught-proof
than canopy or retractable doors. Am I right?

How easy are they to fit? I presume you have to lift them 7 foot
high
and fix to the wall. Are they heavy? Do you need a man at each end
or
is extra support required?

If I get a motorised one, can they be opened by hand if there is a
power cut?

Hi Fred,

I ordered one mid December for DIY install and I'm due to collect it
within
the next few days. This after putting some effort into motorising my
own
canopy door. Basically I changed my mind after getting it working
and
decided its time I fitted a complete new door. The one I have on
order is
double skinned, insulated, draught proof and remote control
motorised. They
make them
up to your specified size ready to install and it comes direct from
the
factory, so no middlemen and a fraction of the usual cost. How good
or bad
it will be I don't yet know until I get my hands on it, but its spec
reads
as good as the best I have looked at.

From what I have read, installation sounds much easier than other
door
types. Basically fix the mounting plate over the door, fix the
vertical
runners, install the gear in the plate brackets, then ease the
actual door
in over the top of the gear and down into the runners. The supplier
suggests
it
is all quite easy and light to handle for a single width door.

I don't know how mine will deal with power cuts - I'm sure there
must be
some provision, but it is not a great concern to me. Some have a
manual
cranking handle from the inside or outside, others simply allow you
to
disconnect the motor and push the door up by hand. I have two other
ways in,
so it will not be an insurmountable problem.

Now if you want to email me off the list, feel free - I'll let you
know how
it goes and put you in touch with the supplier if you wish.


--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT)






Harry,

Can you post a url for your supplier please. I'm in the process of
getting bits together for a new barn / workshop and want a roller
door.

AWEM

"Andrew Mawson" wrote in message
...
Harry,

Can you post a url for your supplier please. I'm in the process of
getting bits together for a new barn / workshop and want a roller
door.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Birkdale-Doors-LTD

I'm not yet at this stage able to offer any recommendation on their doors,
other than the good price.

In article , Harry Bloomfield
writes

"Andrew Mawson" wrote in message
...
Harry,

Can you post a url for your supplier please. I'm in the process of
getting bits together for a new barn / workshop and want a roller
door.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Birkdale-Doors-LTD

I'm not yet at this stage able to offer any recommendation on their doors,
other than the good price.

One of my tenants purchased a second hand roller shutter door through E-
Bay. 300ukp AIR.

The installation was a little protracted as we fitted the opening to the
door rather than the conventional way:-)

In galvanised steel, roughly 8' wide and 7' high, complete with central
spring counterbalance, the roll weighed around 75kgs.

There was a brief thread here on installation issues.

The main lesson learned was that spring tensioning can best be done by
*splitting* the door. In our case the pin locks required a slot cut
either end of a mid door slat. This meant that the plastic links that
control the door in the side guides were missing and the door could be
carefully halved. With the rest of the door rolled, spring tension can
be added easily. Wood blocks can be used to wedge the roll while the
rest of the door is re-fitted.

regards


--
Tim Lamb

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In article , Harry
Bloomfield
writes

"Andrew Mawson" wrote in
message
...
Harry,

Can you post a url for your supplier please. I'm in the process
of
getting bits together for a new barn / workshop and want a roller
door.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Birkdale-Doors-LTD

I'm not yet at this stage able to offer any recommendation on their
doors,
other than the good price.

One of my tenants purchased a second hand roller shutter door
through E-
Bay. 300ukp AIR.

The installation was a little protracted as we fitted the opening to
the
door rather than the conventional way:-)

In galvanised steel, roughly 8' wide and 7' high, complete with
central
spring counterbalance, the roll weighed around 75kgs.

There was a brief thread here on installation issues.

The main lesson learned was that spring tensioning can best be done
by
*splitting* the door. In our case the pin locks required a slot cut
either end of a mid door slat. This meant that the plastic links
that
control the door in the side guides were missing and the door could
be
carefully halved. With the rest of the door rolled, spring tension
can
be added easily. Wood blocks can be used to wedge the roll while the
rest of the door is re-fitted.

regards


--
Tim Lamb

Thanks for the link Harry. I fitted two roller doors at my last place,
neither insulated. The first I got through Exchange and Mart (yes it
was a long time back), was VERY heavy and I had to build a tower crane
using a scaffold tower to winch it into place. I paid £100 for two,
sold the second for £100 so it was free!!! The next door I got from
P&I Protection in Barking. It was measured up on a Thursday, and
installed on Saturday with custom powder coat to match my existing
front door, had electric operation with remote control, for an 8 foot
tall and 18 foot wide all for £1200 - excellent service. Sadly now I'm
miles away from them!!

AWEM

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 00:06:22 -0000, "Harry Bloomfield"
wrote:

Now if you want to email me off the list, feel free - I'll let you know how
it goes and put you in touch with the supplier if you wish.

Thank you. I was going to email you about this but I see you have
subsequently posted the details to the group - thanks.

In the meantime I have emailed another company. They tell me that if
you have other access to the garage there is a manual release.
However, I only have the one door. They tell me it is possible to get
an external release for when there is no other way in. However, I am
concerned because what is to stop a thief pressing the button and
letting himself in?

Thanks again and Happy New Year!

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
...

"Andrew Mawson" wrote in message
...
Harry,

Can you post a url for your supplier please. I'm in the process of
getting bits together for a new barn / workshop and want a roller
door.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Birkdale-Doors-LTD

I'm not yet at this stage able to offer any recommendation on their doors,
other than the good price.

They had agreed it would be ready for collection today, so this morning I
rang them - I had tried several times over and between the holidays, without
any reply. They said it would not be ready until Friday, I explained I had
taken a couple of days off, based on their indication that it would be ready
on the 2nd. Then they changed their minds and agreed they could have it
ready today, so I turned up at 13.30 to collect it and now I've just got it
home and unpacked it - it all looks good. They agreed at 10:15 and it was
packed and ready at 13:30 - so it takes them no more than maybe two hours to
build up a door, assuming they have a lunch break :-)

Two comprehensive four button radio remotes (they said they only came with
one and offered a second one for an extra £20 over the phone), so I don't
need a second one after all. The instruction are quite basic, but look to be
specifically printed for the actual door model by Birkdale. Motor is a Garog
tube motor hidden inside the drum and the controller + remotes Neco (they
had indicated that it was also Garog) which looks as if it quite
comprehensive in its functions and the extras it can support such as IR
safety beam and manual control wired buttons buttons. Motor seems to be
240v, so unlike some cannot be battery backed in case of failure without an
inverter. It comes with a manual cranking handle, but only suitable for use
if you have a second way into the garage to be able to use it - no doubt an
optional extra will permit it to be operated from out side, like the one
below. There is no built in courtesy light, but there is provision for one
in the controller and I have a PIR operated one anyway. It does seem to have
possibly some super-bright LED's installed as a courtesy light on the Neco
PCB, but the PCB is mounted in a standard grey plastic box - so chance of
any light escaping the box. Mechanically it is identical to this one and
electrically it is quite similar -

http://www.rollerdoorsdirect.co.uk/p...structions.pdf

So far, I am not disappointed - but so far I have only got as far as
unpacking it :-)

The hardest part of the install looks like being the feeding of the door
over the roller, it weighs around 40 or 50Kg - easy to manage in a roll for
one, but a bit more awkward when you try to lift it above your head perhaps.
We'll see.

"Fred" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 00:06:22 -0000, "Harry Bloomfield"
wrote:

Now if you want to email me off the list, feel free - I'll let you know
how
it goes and put you in touch with the supplier if you wish.

Thank you. I was going to email you about this but I see you have
subsequently posted the details to the group - thanks.

In the meantime I have emailed another company. They tell me that if
you have other access to the garage there is a manual release.
However, I only have the one door. They tell me it is possible to get
an external release for when there is no other way in. However, I am
concerned because what is to stop a thief pressing the button and
letting himself in?

Thanks again and Happy New Year!

Hi Fred,

I think you have things confused above. The manual release is a little like
a car starting handle. The basic door has such a handle to allow it to be
opened when there is complete power loss. Now imagine that, combined with
the manual drive going through the wall, such that you fit a crank handle
into a socket from outside to crank the door open - that gets you out of
bother when the mains fails, the motor fails, or the controller etc...

You can also buy wired operation buttons for outside. These are operated by
a small Yale type key, but do not help you if there is no power. So for a
thief to gain entry they would normally need the correct key.

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
...

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message It
does seem to have possibly some super-bright LED's installed as a courtesy
light on the Neco PCB, but the PCB is mounted in a standard grey plastic
box - so chance of any light escaping the box. Mechanically it is
identical to this one and electrically it is quite similar -

http://www.rollerdoorsdirect.co.uk/p...structions.pdf

Correction...
I have just fired the unit up on the bench - those 6x LED's throw out quite
a bit of light and the boxes cover is after all translucent.

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
...

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
...

"Andrew Mawson" wrote in message
...
Harry,

Can you post a url for your supplier please. I'm in the process of
getting bits together for a new barn / workshop and want a roller
door.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Birkdale-Doors-LTD

I'm not yet at this stage able to offer any recommendation on their
doors, other than the good price.

They had agreed it would be ready for collection today, so this morning I
rang them - I had tried several times over and between the holidays,
without any reply. They said it would not be ready until Friday, I
explained I had taken a couple of days off, based on their indication that
it would be ready on the 2nd. Then they changed their minds and agreed
they could have it ready today, so I turned up at 13.30 to collect it and
now I've just got it home and unpacked it - it all looks good. They agreed
at 10:15 and it was packed and ready at 13:30 - so it takes them no more
than maybe two hours to build up a door, assuming they have a lunch break
:-)

Two comprehensive four button radio remotes (they said they only came with
one and offered a second one for an extra £20 over the phone), so I don't
need a second one after all. The instruction are quite basic, but look to
be specifically printed for the actual door model by Birkdale. Motor is a
Garog tube motor hidden inside the drum and the controller + remotes Neco
(they had indicated that it was also Garog) which looks as if it quite
comprehensive in its functions and the extras it can support such as IR
safety beam and manual control wired buttons buttons. Motor seems to be
240v, so unlike some cannot be battery backed in case of failure without
an inverter. It comes with a manual cranking handle, but only suitable for
use if you have a second way into the garage to be able to use it - no
doubt an optional extra will permit it to be operated from out side, like
the one below. There is no built in courtesy light, but there is provision
for one in the controller and I have a PIR operated one anyway. It does
seem to have possibly some super-bright LED's installed as a courtesy
light on the Neco PCB, but the PCB is mounted in a standard grey plastic
box - so chance of any light escaping the box. Mechanically it is
identical to this one and electrically it is quite similar -

http://www.rollerdoorsdirect.co.uk/p...structions.pdf

So far, I am not disappointed - but so far I have only got as far as
unpacking it :-)

The hardest part of the install looks like being the feeding of the door
over the roller, it weighs around 40 or 50Kg - easy to manage in a roll
for one, but a bit more awkward when you try to lift it above your head
perhaps. We'll see.

The door is in and working. I had a couple of problems (well three actually)

I could not make head nor tail of the instructions provided with the Nico
controller unit supplied with the door. It is a pigeon English translation
from Chinese, but it sorts itself out once it dawns on you that it needs to
be linked out for the photocell and stop button before it will work. No
mention of the need for this at all in the instructions and at first I
thought the controller must be faulty.

It was an hellish job getting the actual door panel over the top of the
drive roller and down into the slots, mostly because I have racking either
side of the door entrance and I tried to work with these in situ. It would
have been so much easier with room to get in around the edge of the door to
lift it. I ended up putting a 2 x 2 timber a few feet back from the door,
close to the ceiling and using that to take much of doors weight, before
feeding it over the top, then into its slots.

Each alternate lath end in the door is fitted with a plastic cushion/bush at
each end to keep it central in the guide rail. Where the cushions tongue
goes into the lath, they were supposed to be stapled to keep them in place,
but the stapling process had missed some of these so they kept falling out
adding greatly to the problems in getting the door down into its slot.

On 27 Dec 2007, 14:05, Fred wrote:
Hello,

I've posted before about my canopy garage door breaking. From the
replies I received, I am thinking that I might fit a roller door as a
replacement. I understand they are more secure and more draught-proof
than canopy or retractable doors. Am I right?

How easy are they to fit? I presume you have to lift them 7 foot high
and fix to the wall. Are they heavy? Do you need a man at each end or
is extra support required?

If I get a motorised one, can they be opened by hand if there is a
power cut?

Thanks.

Just one word as far as I am concerned - "Securoglide" - I have just
bought the insulated one and it is brilliant
does all the things mentioned
chris

On Wed, 2 Jan 2008 17:32:39 -0000, "Harry Bloomfield"
wrote:

I think you have things confused above. The manual release is a little like
a car starting handle. The basic door has such a handle to allow it to be
opened when there is complete power loss. Now imagine that, combined with
the manual drive going through the wall, such that you fit a crank handle
into a socket from outside to crank the door open - that gets you out of
bother when the mains fails, the motor fails, or the controller etc...

I had not realised that. I thought you just pulled it to disengange
the motor and pushed the door up by hand. I didn't realise you had to
crank it open. My worry is still that a thief could use it to crank
the door open. I know another posted said to padlock it, but it seems
the weak point: padlocks can be easily cut. However if someone is
going to have to spend a few minutes turning a handle, I think it
would deter most opportunistic thieves and I don't have anything
expensive in the garage, so perhaps I am being paranoid!

Does it come with a lockable cover or do I have to find and fit one
myself?

I have emailed the seller so I'll see what he says too.

Thanks.

"Fred" wrote in message
...

I had not realised that. I thought you just pulled it to disengange
the motor and pushed the door up by hand. I didn't realise you had to
crank it open. My worry is still that a thief could use it to crank
the door open. I know another posted said to padlock it, but it seems
the weak point: padlocks can be easily cut. However if someone is
going to have to spend a few minutes turning a handle, I think it
would deter most opportunistic thieves and I don't have anything
expensive in the garage, so perhaps I am being paranoid!

Does it come with a lockable cover or do I have to find and fit one
myself?

I have emailed the seller so I'll see what he says too.

Thanks.

Now it is fully installed, I can better answer your questions.....

There is no spring counter balance in the unit, it relies entirely upon the
motor to raise and lower it. At one end of the spool upon which the door
winds around, is a tubular motor of around 3" diameter, built into the
spool. The motor is fitted with two limits, one for stopping it on the way
up, one for stopping it on the way down - both seem very precise. There is
an hex hole near the limits at the end plate of the motor, into which the
fixed part of the manual winding mechanism can be permanently fixed. The
lower end of that has an eye, onto which you can hook a supplied cranking
handle. It seems when the motor is run, the drive for the manual crank is
disconnected and when you manually crank it, it reconnects itself - so some
sort of clutch in there. It cranks round very easily to lift the door, but
as supplied it can only be used from inside the garage - assuming there is
an alternative way to get in there.

There is an adapter kit, which takes the manual drive down, then through a
wall, so that it can be opened from out side. You basically insert a cranked
handle through a hole into a socket, to turn the shaft end. So the security
is simply it needing a special end to fit the socket, or as someone else
suggested you could add a hasp and padlock over the hole to improve the
security.

The door, the motor, the controller and the rest of the hardware are all
standard bits used by other door suppliers. The suppliers just cut the bits
as required to your specified size.

If you look at this -
http://www.rollerdoorsdirect.co.uk/p...structions.pdf
you can better see how the cranking handle works and how it can be adapted
for use through the wall from outside. The only difference between that and
mine, is that a different (but quite similar functionally) controller is
supplied.

Since I last wrote, I have added a set of wired buttons to operate the door
without need for either of the remotes, once in the garage. Just a spare
plastic electrical box, 2x normally open contact buttons (for up and down)
and 1x normally closed (for stop) and a bit of 8core telephone wire into
the door controller - it is all 24v, apart from the motor. Cost to me was
nothing, the bits were just spare ones. I keep one remote in the house to
operate the door from inside the house and the second one inside the car. My
next project is to add an IR beam to the door for a bit of additional
safety, just as soon as I can find one at a sensible price - the controller
comes with the facility for one to be added.

On Mon, 31 Dec 2007 10:19:06 -0000, "Harry Bloomfield"
wrote:

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Birkdale-Doors-LTD

I'm not yet at this stage able to offer any recommendation on their doors,
other than the good price.


How have you got on with this? Has it been ok since you fitted it?

I didn't buy one straight away because all my money was spent with
Christmas

I'm in the market now though.

I did look at another ebay seller "totalsecurity2005" but I was
unhappy with them. On ebay the advertised price is £417 + £65 p&p.
they asked me to call them with my requirements and told me the price
was £690! I asked why this was £200 more than the ebay price and was
told the ebay item had a "cheap Chinese" motor and the one they quoted
had a "solid British" motor; also the ebay one (apparently) did not
come with safety sensors to stop the door if something/someone was in
the way but the expensive one did. The description implied the ebay
item had sensors included.

Has anyone else used total security and if so, how did you find them
and their products?

I've emailed Birkdale and hope to go with them.

Thanks again.