Hi folks,

An update on the project aiming to strip the paint, sand and varnish
pine stairs. I am only doing threads and risers. Stairs are leading
to front door and I want to paint them clear-satin (natural wood
look). I am not particurarly bothered with them being slippery - there
are no children and I can always have rubber strips or something
similar. I will post pics along the way and ask two questions at the
end.

I have started with stairs painted white on both sides. Sanded top
step with random orbital sander but found this very ineffective (paint
clogging sheets) and dangerous (possible lead paint).
http://tinyurl.com/38ssgq

Following your advice, I used Nitromors instead to strip the paint and
here is the result:
http://tinyurl.com/3dvl27

Then, I got to my random orbital and delta sander again and prepared
stairs for varnishing:
http://tinyurl.com/3xa6k6

Now questions:

1) wood on both sides is a bit lighter than wood in the middle
(particurarly noticable on risers). I can't help with sander anymore.
Will this darken equally under varnish or do I need to pre-stain the
sides with something ?

2) I plan to use polyurethane varnish (I need sth low maintenence and
long lasting). Should I use water or solvent based one ? Visiting
local shed there are only two:
- Ronseal diamond hard and
- Sadolin.
Both water based (because they say to clean the brush with water).
Looking at screwfix there are two as well:

http://tinyurl.com/3dhgm6
http://tinyurl.com/36xg6e

second one looks like it's solvent based. What would be your choice ?
I don't mind if it takes long to dry, toughness is my priority.

any help much appreciated,

olo wrote:
Hi folks,

An update on the project aiming to strip the paint, sand and varnish
pine stairs. I am only doing threads and risers. Stairs are leading
to front door and I want to paint them clear-satin (natural wood
look). I am not particurarly bothered with them being slippery - there
are no children and I can always have rubber strips or something
similar. I will post pics along the way and ask two questions at the
end.

I have started with stairs painted white on both sides. Sanded top
step with random orbital sander but found this very ineffective (paint
clogging sheets) and dangerous (possible lead paint).
http://tinyurl.com/38ssgq

Following your advice, I used Nitromors instead to strip the paint and
here is the result:
http://tinyurl.com/3dvl27

Then, I got to my random orbital and delta sander again and prepared
stairs for varnishing:
http://tinyurl.com/3xa6k6

Now questions:

1) wood on both sides is a bit lighter than wood in the middle
(particurarly noticable on risers). I can't help with sander anymore.
Will this darken equally under varnish

Varnish usually highlights the difference.

or do I need to pre-stain the
sides with something ?

"2 part woodworking bleach" (Rustins?) is probably your best bet. Part 1
is strongly alkaline and makes everything darker. Part 2 looks as though
it's not doing much until it dries. It may not mask the shade change
completely but it will almost certainly be an improvement. Nasty stuff
so heed all safety blurb.

2) I plan to use polyurethane varnish (I need sth low maintenence and
long lasting). Should I use water or solvent based one ? Visiting
local shed there are only two:
- Ronseal diamond hard and
- Sadolin.
Both water based (because they say to clean the brush with water).
Looking at screwfix there are two as well:

http://tinyurl.com/3dhgm6
http://tinyurl.com/36xg6e

second one looks like it's solvent based. What would be your choice ?
I don't mind if it takes long to dry, toughness is my priority.

any help much appreciated,

Rustins 2 part floor varnish if you want toughness and a genuinely clear
finish.

"olo" wrote in message
...
Hi folks,

An update on the project aiming to strip the paint, sand and varnish
pine stairs. I am only doing threads and risers. Stairs are leading
to front door and I want to paint them clear-satin (natural wood
look). I am not particurarly bothered with them being slippery - there
are no children and I can always have rubber strips or something
similar. I will post pics along the way and ask two questions at the
end.



Try some Nitromors and course wire wool on the dark part of the stairs,that
might bring it up more?

By the way...
Hope you have good neighbours on that side of the house?

On Fri, 14 Dec 2007 02:24:17 -0800, olo wrote:

Hi folks,

An update on the project aiming to strip the paint, sand and varnish pine
stairs. I am only doing threads and risers. Stairs are leading to front
door and I want to paint them clear-satin (natural wood look). I am not
particurarly bothered with them being slippery - there are no children and
I can always have rubber strips or something similar. I will post pics
along the way and ask two questions at the end.

I have started with stairs painted white on both sides. Sanded top step
with random orbital sander but found this very ineffective (paint clogging
sheets) and dangerous (possible lead paint). http://tinyurl.com/38ssgq

Following your advice, I used Nitromors instead to strip the paint and
here is the result:
http://tinyurl.com/3dvl27

Then, I got to my random orbital and delta sander again and prepared
stairs for varnishing:
http://tinyurl.com/3xa6k6

Now questions:

1) wood on both sides is a bit lighter than wood in the middle
(particurarly noticable on risers). I can't help with sander anymore. Will
this darken equally under varnish or do I need to pre-stain the sides with
something ?

2) I plan to use polyurethane varnish (I need sth low maintenence and long
lasting). Should I use water or solvent based one ? Visiting local shed
there are only two:
- Ronseal diamond hard and
- Sadolin.
Both water based (because they say to clean the brush with water). Looking
at screwfix there are two as well:

http://tinyurl.com/3dhgm6
http://tinyurl.com/36xg6e

second one looks like it's solvent based. What would be your choice ? I
don't mind if it takes long to dry, toughness is my priority.

any help much appreciated,

==================================
Regardless of any other treatment I would suggest that you consider some
kind of protective cover for the leading edges of the treads. This is the
part of a step that bears the brunt of everyday wear and could quickly
become dangerous.

As far as the colour goes I would echo the suggestion of more Nitromors
treatment as you're probably seeing engrained paint residue rather than a
true colour discrepancy.

Cic.

--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

On 14 Dec, 10:24, olo wrote:
Hi folks,

An update on the project aiming to strip the paint, sand and varnish
pine stairs. I am only doing threads and risers. Stairs are leading
to front door and I want to paint them clear-satin (natural wood
look). I am not particurarly bothered with them being slippery - there
are no children and I can always have rubber strips or something
similar. I will post pics along the way and ask two questions at the
end.

I have started with stairs painted white on both sides. Sanded top
step with random orbital sander but found this very ineffective (paint
clogging sheets) and dangerous (possible lead paint).http://tinyurl.com/38ssgq

Following your advice, I used Nitromors instead to strip the paint and
here is the result:http://tinyurl.com/3dvl27

Then, I got to my random orbital and delta sander again and prepared
stairs for varnishing:http://tinyurl.com/3xa6k6

Now questions:

1) wood on both sides is a bit lighter than wood in the middle
(particurarly noticable on risers). I can't help with sander anymore.
Will this darken equally under varnish or do I need to pre-stain the
sides with something ?

2) I plan to use polyurethane varnish (I need sth low maintenence and
long lasting). Should I use water or solvent based one ? Visiting
local shed there are only two:
- Ronseal diamond hard and
- Sadolin.
Both water based (because they say to clean the brush with water).
Looking at screwfix there are two as well:

http://tinyurl.com/3dhgm6http://tinyurl.com/36xg6e

second one looks like it's solvent based. What would be your choice ?
I don't mind if it takes long to dry, toughness is my priority.

any help much appreciated,

If you do have to stain, you will need to find some equivalent wood
and do some testing. Pine is always difficult to stain
satisfactorily. One trick I've discovered is to stain pale pink first
(dilute red mahogany 4 : 1 or so) and then stain with light oak. All
the pine stains give too yellow a finish for my liking.

Rob

cool - thanks for all your advice,

I will try Nitromors & wire wool first on the darker parts. Failing
that I will experiment with wood bleach.

Also thanks for suggesting rustins 2 part varnish as being tough, I
think it is this one we're talking about he
http://www.rustins.co.uk/product.htm?chgprod=PCF

cheers

olo wrote:
cool - thanks for all your advice,

I will try Nitromors & wire wool first on the darker parts. Failing
that I will experiment with wood bleach.

Also thanks for suggesting rustins 2 part varnish as being tough, I
think it is this one we're talking about he
http://www.rustins.co.uk/product.htm?chgprod=PCF

cheers

That's the one. Bear in mind that it's fairly thick, and will look like
a sheet of glass if brushed on and left to set. I prefer to massage it
into the surface with a rag, which produces more of a satin look.
Disgusting stuff to use. The fumes are mighty powerful, but short lived

olo wrote:
snip
second one looks like it's solvent based. What would be your choice ?
I don't mind if it takes long to dry, toughness is my priority.


If you really want toughness (and you don't have UV to worry about
indoors) use epoxy. West Systems is pretty good - I'm just having to
redo my boat, after 10 years of living outdoors under a canvas cover, so
that's pretty tough.

Andy