Hello,

We are about to paint the woodwork with pure brilliant white gloss. We
did some painting some months ago with Crown gloss but it went yellow
very quickly. We have tried the water based Dulux but like other
people have commented here, the finish isn't "right".

What is the best anti-yellowing paint to use?

I did read some old posts which referred to a previous post saying UV
light kept white white, but I could not find this original thread; I
guess it has long expired off the news servers. I am surprised at
that, I would have expected UV to fade, not preserve, the white. Can
anyone remember the details of this post?

Someone told me that its because lead has been taken out of paint. Did
the lead help stabilise the colour, or have they made that up?

Is it best to take the old paint off all the way back to the wood.
that's what I think but SWMBO is impatient and wants to do just a
quick sand!

Thanks,
Stephen.

I had really good results with Leyland contract white (used with the
corresponding primer and undercoat on new wood). No yellowing and
hardened (slowly) to a very tough finish.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11842/...e-Paint-2-5Ltr

wrote:
Hello,

We are about to paint the woodwork with pure brilliant white gloss. We
did some painting some months ago with Crown gloss but it went yellow
very quickly. We have tried the water based Dulux but like other
people have commented here, the finish isn't "right".

What is the best anti-yellowing paint to use?

I did read some old posts which referred to a previous post saying UV
light kept white white, but I could not find this original thread; I
guess it has long expired off the news servers. I am surprised at
that, I would have expected UV to fade, not preserve, the white. Can
anyone remember the details of this post?

Someone told me that its because lead has been taken out of paint. Did
the lead help stabilise the colour, or have they made that up?

Is it best to take the old paint off all the way back to the wood.
that's what I think but SWMBO is impatient and wants to do just a
quick sand!

Thanks,
Stephen.

Stephen,

Firstly a question - are you a smoker? If you are, then that could be the
problem.

I have used white gloss over many years and it's something like 2 - 3 years
before it begins to noticeably "yellow"

The method I use for RE-painting is thus:

1 - Rub down the woodwork to get rid of flaking paint and any old paint
runs.

2 - Wash the woodwork with sugar soap and allow to dry overnight.

4 - Fill and holes and defects as needed.

5 - Two coats of water based acrylic primer/undercoat (externally I would
use only separate oil based primers and undercoat) - rubbed down between
coats.

6 - And then dependent upon the finish I'm after - one or two coats of oil
based gloss.


Using this method gives me a good and long lasting finish.

Brian G

wrote:
Hello,

We are about to paint the woodwork with pure brilliant white gloss. We
did some painting some months ago with Crown gloss but it went yellow
very quickly. We have tried the water based Dulux but like other
people have commented here, the finish isn't "right".

No, it's not unlike a plastic bag in appearance

What is the best anti-yellowing paint to use?

This firm used to do a non-yellowing solvent based paint but it was
pretty damned expensive IIRC. I heard most of it was sold to London
Underground to paint the edges of the platforms, so hard wearing it
certainly was

http://www.applegate.co.uk/plastics/...y/co_21541.htm

Brian G wrote:
wrote:
Hello,

We are about to paint the woodwork with pure brilliant white gloss. We
did some painting some months ago with Crown gloss but it went yellow
very quickly. We have tried the water based Dulux but like other
people have commented here, the finish isn't "right".

What is the best anti-yellowing paint to use?

I did read some old posts which referred to a previous post saying UV
light kept white white, but I could not find this original thread; I
guess it has long expired off the news servers. I am surprised at
that, I would have expected UV to fade, not preserve, the white. Can
anyone remember the details of this post?

Someone told me that its because lead has been taken out of paint. Did
the lead help stabilise the colour, or have they made that up?

Is it best to take the old paint off all the way back to the wood.
that's what I think but SWMBO is impatient and wants to do just a
quick sand!

Thanks,
Stephen.

Stephen,

Firstly a question - are you a smoker? If you are, then that could be the
problem.

I have used white gloss over many years and it's something like 2 - 3 years
before it begins to noticeably "yellow"

The method I use for RE-painting is thus:

1 - Rub down the woodwork to get rid of flaking paint and any old paint
runs.

2 - Wash the woodwork with sugar soap and allow to dry overnight.

4 - Fill and holes and defects as needed.

5 - Two coats of water based acrylic primer/undercoat (externally I would
use only separate oil based primers and undercoat) - rubbed down between
coats.

6 - And then dependent upon the finish I'm after - one or two coats of oil
based gloss.


Using this method gives me a good and long lasting finish.

Brian G



All oil paints yellow. Nature of the beast.

wrote:

Someone told me that its because lead has been taken out of paint. Did
the lead help stabilise the colour, or have they made that up?


AIUI the yellowing is caused by the oil base going yellow not the
pigment. Nowadays Titanium Oxide is used for brilliant whites. The fact
that lead is no longer used is A GOOD THING - its lack is not causing
your problem.

Another Dave

On Dec 12, 5:14 pm, Stuart Noble
wrote:

What is the best anti-yellowing paint to use?

This firm used to do a non-yellowing solvent based paint but it was
pretty damned expensive IIRC. I heard most of it was sold to London
Underground to paint the edges of the platforms, so hard wearing it
certainly was

http://www.applegate.co.uk/plastics/...y/co_21541.htm

Might be this stuff, pricy though:

http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/G4_POND___DAMP_SEAL.html

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote:
On Dec 12, 5:14 pm, Stuart Noble
wrote:

What is the best anti-yellowing paint to use?
This firm used to do a non-yellowing solvent based paint but it was
pretty damned expensive IIRC. I heard most of it was sold to London
Underground to paint the edges of the platforms, so hard wearing it
certainly was

http://www.applegate.co.uk/plastics/...y/co_21541.htm

Might be this stuff, pricy though:

http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/G4_POND___DAMP_SEAL.html

cheers,
Pete.

Yep, that's it. I think the solvent is xylene or something equally awful

wrote in message
...
Hello,

We are about to paint the woodwork with pure brilliant white gloss. We
did some painting some months ago with Crown gloss but it went yellow
very quickly. We have tried the water based Dulux but like other
people have commented here, the finish isn't "right".

What is the best anti-yellowing paint to use?

Most white gloss in my house - and there is a lot of it - is Green Paints
gloss from this bunch:

http://www.greenshop.co.uk/

Very pleased with it; no perceptible yellowing after 4-5 years. Env-friendly
and all.

Not so happy with it used externally though, despite the Which?
recommendation. I tend to use Dulux Weathershield, ideally full system from
bare wood, and accept that it's going to yellow.

Stuart Noble wrote:
Brian G wrote:
wrote:
Hello,

We are about to paint the woodwork with pure brilliant white gloss.
We did some painting some months ago with Crown gloss but it went
yellow very quickly. We have tried the water based Dulux but like
other people have commented here, the finish isn't "right".

What is the best anti-yellowing paint to use?

I did read some old posts which referred to a previous post saying
UV light kept white white, but I could not find this original
thread; I guess it has long expired off the news servers. I am
surprised at that, I would have expected UV to fade, not preserve,
the white. Can anyone remember the details of this post?

Someone told me that its because lead has been taken out of paint.
Did the lead help stabilise the colour, or have they made that up?

Is it best to take the old paint off all the way back to the wood.
that's what I think but SWMBO is impatient and wants to do just a
quick sand!

Thanks,
Stephen.

Stephen,

Firstly a question - are you a smoker? If you are, then that could
be the problem.

I have used white gloss over many years and it's something like 2 -
3 years before it begins to noticeably "yellow"

The method I use for RE-painting is thus:

1 - Rub down the woodwork to get rid of flaking paint and any old
paint runs.

2 - Wash the woodwork with sugar soap and allow to dry overnight.

4 - Fill and holes and defects as needed.

5 - Two coats of water based acrylic primer/undercoat (externally I
would use only separate oil based primers and undercoat) - rubbed
down between coats.

6 - And then dependent upon the finish I'm after - one or two coats
of oil based gloss.


Using this method gives me a good and long lasting finish.

Brian G



All oil paints yellow. Nature of the beast.

Yep, but if care is taken in the preparation, you can delay the obvious
onset of it.

Brian G

In message , rrh
writes

Not so happy with it used externally though, despite the Which?
recommendation. I tend to use Dulux Weathershield, ideally full system from
bare wood, and accept that it's going to yellow.

I've never noticed yellowing on outdoor gloss (we had Weathersheild on
our old house).

As was mentioned somewhere it seems to be lack of light that caused
increased yellowing - in our old house there were yellower patches on
the gloss on the panelling on the stairs where there had been shields of
some sort mounted.

Lack of light (UV?) isn't likely to be a problem outdoors.
--
Chris French

On Thu, 13 Dec 2007 00:13:31 +0000, chris French
wrote:

I've never noticed yellowing on outdoor gloss (we had Weathersheild on
our old house).

As was mentioned somewhere it seems to be lack of light that caused
increased yellowing - in our old house there were yellower patches on
the gloss on the panelling on the stairs where there had been shields of
some sort mounted.

Lack of light (UV?) isn't likely to be a problem outdoors.

Sorry for the late reply.

To answer another post's question: there are no smokers in our house.
It is only the interior woodwork that we want to refresh and it does
seem that it's the shadow-side that is more yellowed. Why does sun
light keep whites white?

Merry Christmas