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Default Greenhouse

I am about to install/build an Elite High Eaves green house
(aluminium framed). Has anyone done similar or can think of any gotchas
that may jump up and bite me?
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Default Greenhouse

What type of base are you using.

get yourself a good 10mm socket nut driver,then plug the socket with cotten
wool so that the nut just sits inside the socket,will save hours of
annoyance,with dropped,misthreaded nuts.

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ALex wrote:
What type of base are you using.


Slabs on (thin)sand/cement mix (dry). These were laid by builders
(neighbours over the back). Second guessing myself now though "should I
have gone for a concrete slab?","should I have gone for a course(or two)
of brick?"
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"soup" wrote in message
.uk...
I am about to install/build an Elite High Eaves green house (aluminium
framed). Has anyone done similar or can think of any gotchas that may
jump up and bite me?


This is the order that I used for mine

Prepare the ground
Build the frame
Site it
Mark out the holes for the ground anchors
Move the frame out of the way
Dig out the holes for the ground anchors
Put the frame back in place and double check for square and level
Fit the ground anchors
Glaze
Fill the ground anchor holes with post mix

I note that you are siting on slabs
I did not do this as I could not see an easy way of fitting the ground
anchors

Tony


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Default Greenhouse

soup wrote:
ALex wrote:
What type of base are you using.


Slabs on (thin)sand/cement mix (dry). These were laid by builders
(neighbours over the back). Second guessing myself now though "should I
have gone for a concrete slab?","should I have gone for a course(or two)
of brick?"


Depends on how high it is, and you are!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
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In message , TMC
writes

"soup" wrote in message
o.uk...
I am about to install/build an Elite High Eaves green house (aluminium
framed). Has anyone done similar or can think of any gotchas that may
jump up and bite me?


This is the order that I used for mine

Prepare the ground
Build the frame
Site it
Mark out the holes for the ground anchors
Move the frame out of the way
Dig out the holes for the ground anchors
Put the frame back in place and double check for square and level
Fit the ground anchors
Glaze
Fill the ground anchor holes with post mix

I note that you are siting on slabs
I did not do this as I could not see an easy way of fitting the ground
anchors

I like a couple of courses of brick, or a course of concrete blocks.

I then screwed treated timbers to the top of them and then screwed the
frame down to the timbers

--
Chris French

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In message , chris French
writes

I note that you are siting on slabs
I did not do this as I could not see an easy way of fitting the ground
anchors

I like a couple of courses of brick, or a course of concrete blocks.

I then screwed treated timbers to the top of them and then screwed the
frame down to the timbers


Not relevant to the slab flooring but if you plant tomatoes etc.
directly into the ground you will import peat and manure to build up
fertility. After a few years the soil level will be 6" up the glass.

Two courses of engineering brick delays this effect and gives better
headroom.

regards


--
Tim Lamb
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Default Greenhouse


"soup" wrote in message
.uk...
I am about to install/build an Elite High Eaves green house (aluminium
framed). Has anyone done similar or can think of any gotchas that may
jump up and bite me?



Build it onto some 6" high tannelised timber framework "nailed" to the earth
using 18" long steel rods and save a few quid.
Screw to the wood and bobs yer aunties husband


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Default Greenhouse


"R" wrote in message ...

"soup" wrote in message .uk...
I am about to install/build an Elite High Eaves green house (aluminium framed). Has anyone done
similar or can think of any gotchas that may jump up and bite me?



Build it onto some 6" high tannelised timber framework "nailed" to the earth using 18" long steel
rods and save a few quid.
Screw to the wood and bobs yer aunties husband

Make sure the timbers of the framework are secured to each other, otherwise they will move over time,
even when nailed into the earth. Simple butt joints with screws.
12 years ago I did not, and they have, and the greenhouse racked and broke some panes.. Looks like I
will have to dismantle the whole damn greenhouse, build a proper base and rebuild it again, after
buying a few replacement panes.


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R wrote:

Build it onto some 6" high tannelised timber framework "nailed" to the earth
using 18" long steel rods and save a few quid.
Screw to the wood and bobs yer aunties husband


Thanks for the input. However we already have the slab base laid so
can't flaff with the type of base


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Dave Gordon wrote:


Make sure the timbers of the framework are secured to each other, otherwise they will move over time,
even when nailed into the earth. Simple butt joints with screws.
12 years ago I did not, and they have, and the greenhouse racked and broke some panes.. Looks like I
will have to dismantle the whole damn greenhouse, build a proper base and rebuild it again, after
buying a few replacement panes.


Sorry to hear that. However we already have the slabs laid so shan't be
fixing the green house (directly) to the earth, or rather to timber that
is attached to the earth.
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ALex wrote:

get yourself a good 10mm socket nut driver,then plug the socket with
cotten wool so that the nut just sits inside the socket,will save hours
of annoyance,with dropped,misthreaded nuts.


Doing something along the same lines with a nut driver in a rechargable
drill/driver this driver also fits in a hand held screwdriver "handle".

How important do you feel the cotton wool is? I was intending to hand
start the nuts (to avoid cross threading) using the drill/driver to to
the majority of the twisting (to save time and effort) and put the last
quarter turn on with the "handle" (for the control).

Regarding this last quarter turn, I will wait until the whole
structure is up as if you tighten three (say) bolts fully the fourth may
not go in the hole and also the final tightening should be left until
the structure is checked for square (easier to do if the whole structure
is up).
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TMC wrote:

This is the order that I used for mine

Prepare the ground
BUILD THE FRAME
Site it
Mark out the holes for the ground anchors
Move the frame out of the way
Dig out the holes for the ground anchors
Put the frame back in place and double check for square and level
Fit the ground anchors
Glaze
Fill the ground anchor holes with post mix



I already have a slab base so can't alter that. Did the Frame throw up
any issues or was it just a case of folowing the instructions exactly?

I note that you are siting on slabs
I did not do this as I could not see an easy way of fitting the ground
anchors.


Instructions I have is to just cut them flush (they are only aluminium
so should be fairly easily cut).
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