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Default Fixing replacement exterior pine cladding

Hello.

The extension on my mother's house has "shiplap" cladding on three
sides between the roof and window frame.

Two faces of cladding were in fine condition and I just rubbed
down, undercoated and repainted this.

The 3rd face of cladding was "crumbling" in places and had a fair
amount of filler.

I have bought and prepared (prime/ucoat/topcoat) pre-cut lengths
of pine T&G cladding (not an exact match to the shiplap, but all that
I could find).

The cladding is ready to go up on a dry day.

My question is how to fix the cladding. Will I need galvanised
nails or brass screws or something similarly special? Or will standard
nails work fine? Should I predrill holes through the cladding to
reduce the risk of it splitting when I nail it? I'm intending to wack
frame sealant at the ends of the boards as they meet the vertical
corner "pieces" of 1 x 1 timber. Water tightness will take priority
over looks.

I'm hoping to pull the old cladding down and fix the new in about 4
hours.

Once it's all in place I'll give it one final top coat.

Anything else I should consider when doing this job?

Thanks

Clive

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Default Fixing replacement exterior pine cladding


"Clive" wrote in message
ps.com...
Hello.

The extension on my mother's house has "shiplap" cladding on three
sides between the roof and window frame.

Two faces of cladding were in fine condition and I just rubbed
down, undercoated and repainted this.

The 3rd face of cladding was "crumbling" in places and had a fair
amount of filler.

I have bought and prepared (prime/ucoat/topcoat) pre-cut lengths
of pine T&G cladding (not an exact match to the shiplap, but all that
I could find).

The cladding is ready to go up on a dry day.

My question is how to fix the cladding. Will I need galvanised
nails or brass screws or something similarly special? Or will standard
nails work fine? Should I predrill holes through the cladding to
reduce the risk of it splitting when I nail it? I'm intending to wack
frame sealant at the ends of the boards as they meet the vertical
corner "pieces" of 1 x 1 timber. Water tightness will take priority
over looks.

I'm hoping to pull the old cladding down and fix the new in about 4
hours.

Once it's all in place I'll give it one final top coat.

Anything else I should consider when doing this job?

Thanks

Clive


I assume that you have inspected the sub frame that the cladding will fix to
and found it to be sound.

Personally I would drill and screw with say 11/2 inch No 8 screws at the
ends of the cladding (I use screwfix quicksilver for most outdoor use rather
than specifically outdoor screws) and nail with 40mm galvanised nails away
from the ends.
Both fixings will outlast the timber (I have had longer timber life with
microporous paints in this application than traditional paints)

One of the problems in doing the painting beforehand is that you will damage
the painted surface when you fit the boards. Drilling and screwing
throughout will minimise the damage and you could fill over the screws with
sealant

Tony


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