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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Worcester oil fired boiler
Have got a Worcester Danesmoor 20/25 oil fired boiler.
Last heating season there was a large clunk/bang a few seconds after the burner stopped working. The local supplier's maintenance man said that the screw holding the baffles together had worked loose and that it had probably been incorrect (which I took to mean the screw not fully tightened) from the start. Certainly once it was attended to the clunk was no longer in evidence. This season I get very slight clicking noises once the burner stops for the first 90 minutes of firing in the early mornings. The noises are like cooling down noises which they might be of course. At other times during the day there is nothing to be heard. In the back of my mind was the thought that the baffle screw was being worked lose again. The boiler is 8 years old and it took 7 years to get the screw to the loose stage originally. Was wondering, if this was the case, if it is a job for Araldite or fire cement as a sort of locktite for a permanent repair. What have others done? Is this a known problem? Thanks in advance for the experience of others. -- PK Remove the xtra y from my name in the email address if replying |
#2
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Worcester oil fired boiler
On 13 Oct, 12:09, Paul Kelly wrote:
Have got a Worcester Danesmoor 20/25 oil fired boiler. Last heating season there was a large clunk/bang a few seconds after the burner stopped working. The local supplier's maintenance man said that the screw holding the baffles together had worked loose and that it had probably been incorrect (which I took to mean the screw not fully tightened) from the start. Certainly once it was attended to the clunk was no longer in evidence. This season I get very slight clicking noises once the burner stops for the first 90 minutes of firing in the early mornings. The noises are like cooling down noises which they might be of course. At other times during the day there is nothing to be heard. In the back of my mind was the thought that the baffle screw was being worked lose again. The boiler is 8 years old and it took 7 years to get the screw to the loose stage originally. Was wondering, if this was the case, if it is a job for Araldite or fire cement as a sort of locktite for a permanent repair. What have others done? Is this a known problem? Thanks in advance for the experience of others. -- PK Remove the xtra y from my name in the email address if replying I've worked on a "lot" of Danesmoors and I can't recall any having a screw holding the baffles in place. Mostly the versions had either ledges at the sides and gravity kept them in place or there were 4 side plates with a central unit sprung sideways against them to keep them in position. Some of the models had screws hlding the access plate in position from outside but these would not work loose. It was a failing that the baffleplates suffered heat damage to the material and distorted sometimes suficiently to drop off the supports to land in the bottom with a bang. Following this the flame path was obstructed and the burner would stop. I think your "guy" was telling you anything to make a quick get away with his diagnosis The clicking could be a hot distorted plate contracting as it cooled. |
#3
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Worcester oil fired boiler
In message . com, cynic
writes I've worked on a "lot" of Danesmoors and I can't recall any having a screw holding the baffles in place. Mostly the versions had either ledges at the sides and gravity kept them in place or there were 4 side plates with a central unit sprung sideways against them to keep them in position. Some of the models had screws hlding the access plate in position from outside but these would not work loose. It was a failing that the baffleplates suffered heat damage to the material and distorted sometimes suficiently to drop off the supports to land in the bottom with a bang. Following this the flame path was obstructed and the burner would stop. I think your "guy" was telling you anything to make a quick get away with his diagnosis The clicking could be a hot distorted plate contracting as it cooled. Many thanks for the information - and that from someone who knows. -- PK Remove the xtra y from my name in the email address if replying |
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