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Default No hot water, heating fine.

Hi all,

I recently moved into a new (old) house a few months ago and moved/
changed one of the radiators so I drained the system. At the same time
I decided to change it from a gravity fed hot water system to a fully
pumped S plan by moving the pump and motorised valves around (more on
this later).

Details of current system are as follows:
- open vented
- 20 year+ old Glow-worm space saver boiler
- two Honeywell 2 port motorised valves (making it an S plan)
- 2 speed Grundfos pump (set to 2 at all times)
- combination of 22mm and 15mm copper pipe all round. 22mm is used to
feed CH but where the T piece is after the pump the HW copper pipe is
reduced to 15mm to feed into the HW tank.

I originally just moved the radiator and when testing my handywork I
noticed that the HW motorised valve wasn't working (stuck open) so i
decided to replace this (I never tested the system fully when I first
moved in so I can't be sure of how the previous owners used to run the
system - the HW motorised valve was set to manual so they must have
known it was knackered). After testing the radiator I looked at the
pipe layout and decided that it would be straightforward and more
efficient to convert it to a fully pumped S plan from a gravity fed HW
system. The main reason for this was that the pump was activating when
calling for HW only anyway (which actually pumped water around the CH
system as well?!) - and the CH motorised valve was actually placed
first so you could only get HW if CH was switched on anyway. It was a
very bizarre layout and made no sense when operating the controls. The
wiring was for a fully pumped S plan system but the pipe layout was
for gravity fed (and even that was a botch job).

Anyway I got around the changing all the radiators to TRVs (except for
2 which are lockshields left fully open at all times) and have now
testing the system which is detailed below:

- CH only. Boiler fires, pump activates, CH motorised valve opens, CH
works fine.
- CH + HW. Boiler fires, pump activates, CH and HW motorised valves
open, CH works fine and have HW.
- HW only. Pump activates, HW motorised valve opens, boiler fires for
about 30secs - 2mins then stops. Pump continues to run and HW
motorised valve stays open.

Has anybody got any idea as to what could be causing this? It can't be
the thermostat on the HW tank as the pump and motorised valve are
still both running/open and it works fine when using CH + HW. There is
still a little bit or air in the system but it is working it's way out
(by bleeding the radiators). No inhibitor has been used yet until I
know I won't have to drain the system again. There can't be a blockage
or air trap in the HW circuit as I get HW when both CH + HW are
switched on. Everything seems fine until the boiler cuts out.

It's driving me crazy!

Many thanks in advance,
Paul.

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Posts: 2,488
Default No hot water, heating fine.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:

Hi all,

I recently moved into a new (old) house a few months ago and moved/
changed one of the radiators so I drained the system. At the same time
I decided to change it from a gravity fed hot water system to a fully
pumped S plan by moving the pump and motorised valves around (more on
this later).

Details of current system are as follows:
- open vented
- 20 year+ old Glow-worm space saver boiler
- two Honeywell 2 port motorised valves (making it an S plan)
- 2 speed Grundfos pump (set to 2 at all times)
- combination of 22mm and 15mm copper pipe all round. 22mm is used to
feed CH but where the T piece is after the pump the HW copper pipe is
reduced to 15mm to feed into the HW tank.

I originally just moved the radiator and when testing my handywork I
noticed that the HW motorised valve wasn't working (stuck open) so i
decided to replace this (I never tested the system fully when I first
moved in so I can't be sure of how the previous owners used to run the
system - the HW motorised valve was set to manual so they must have
known it was knackered). After testing the radiator I looked at the
pipe layout and decided that it would be straightforward and more
efficient to convert it to a fully pumped S plan from a gravity fed HW
system. The main reason for this was that the pump was activating when
calling for HW only anyway (which actually pumped water around the CH
system as well?!) - and the CH motorised valve was actually placed
first so you could only get HW if CH was switched on anyway. It was a
very bizarre layout and made no sense when operating the controls. The
wiring was for a fully pumped S plan system but the pipe layout was
for gravity fed (and even that was a botch job).

Anyway I got around the changing all the radiators to TRVs (except for
2 which are lockshields left fully open at all times) and have now
testing the system which is detailed below:

- CH only. Boiler fires, pump activates, CH motorised valve opens, CH
works fine.
- CH + HW. Boiler fires, pump activates, CH and HW motorised valves
open, CH works fine and have HW.
- HW only. Pump activates, HW motorised valve opens, boiler fires for
about 30secs - 2mins then stops. Pump continues to run and HW
motorised valve stays open.

Has anybody got any idea as to what could be causing this? It can't be
the thermostat on the HW tank as the pump and motorised valve are
still both running/open and it works fine when using CH + HW. There is
still a little bit or air in the system but it is working it's way out
(by bleeding the radiators). No inhibitor has been used yet until I
know I won't have to drain the system again. There can't be a blockage
or air trap in the HW circuit as I get HW when both CH + HW are
switched on. Everything seems fine until the boiler cuts out.

It's driving me crazy!

Many thanks in advance,
Paul.


On HW-only, is the boiler still receiving a demand - in other words, is it's
switched live input live? If not, you've got a wiring fault.

If it *is* receiving a demand - which seems more likely - it means that
there is no flow under these conditions - despite the pump running - with
the result that the water inside the boiler gets hot, and it then cuts out
on its internal thermostat.

You mentioned that "the CH valve was placed first". Is this still the case,
or have you corrected it? If the water has to flow through *both* valves to
get to the cylinder, but the CH valve is closed, it will give the symptoms
you describe!

The water needs to come from the boiler and through the pump. After the pump
there needs to be a tee-piece, with the HW valve in one leg and the CH valve
in the other so that they are independent of each other. I would suggest
that your problem lies in this area.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!


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Posts: 9
Default No hot water, heating fine.

On 1 Oct, 11:25, "Roger Mills" wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,





wrote:
Hi all,


I recently moved into a new (old) house a few months ago and moved/
changed one of the radiators so I drained the system. At the same time
I decided to change it from a gravity fed hot water system to a fully
pumped S plan by moving the pump and motorised valves around (more on
this later).


Details of current system are as follows:
- open vented
- 20 year+ old Glow-worm space saver boiler
- two Honeywell 2 port motorised valves (making it an S plan)
- 2 speed Grundfos pump (set to 2 at all times)
- combination of 22mm and 15mm copper pipe all round. 22mm is used to
feed CH but where the T piece is after the pump the HW copper pipe is
reduced to 15mm to feed into the HW tank.


I originally just moved the radiator and when testing my handywork I
noticed that the HW motorised valve wasn't working (stuck open) so i
decided to replace this (I never tested the system fully when I first
moved in so I can't be sure of how the previous owners used to run the
system - the HW motorised valve was set to manual so they must have
known it was knackered). After testing the radiator I looked at the
pipe layout and decided that it would be straightforward and more
efficient to convert it to a fully pumped S plan from a gravity fed HW
system. The main reason for this was that the pump was activating when
calling for HW only anyway (which actually pumped water around the CH
system as well?!) - and the CH motorised valve was actually placed
first so you could only get HW if CH was switched on anyway. It was a
very bizarre layout and made no sense when operating the controls. The
wiring was for a fully pumped S plan system but the pipe layout was
for gravity fed (and even that was a botch job).


Anyway I got around the changing all the radiators to TRVs (except for
2 which are lockshields left fully open at all times) and have now
testing the system which is detailed below:


- CH only. Boiler fires, pump activates, CH motorised valve opens, CH
works fine.
- CH + HW. Boiler fires, pump activates, CH and HW motorised valves
open, CH works fine and have HW.
- HW only. Pump activates, HW motorised valve opens, boiler fires for
about 30secs - 2mins then stops. Pump continues to run and HW
motorised valve stays open.


Has anybody got any idea as to what could be causing this? It can't be
the thermostat on the HW tank as the pump and motorised valve are
still both running/open and it works fine when using CH + HW. There is
still a little bit or air in the system but it is working it's way out
(by bleeding the radiators). No inhibitor has been used yet until I
know I won't have to drain the system again. There can't be a blockage
or air trap in the HW circuit as I get HW when both CH + HW are
switched on. Everything seems fine until the boiler cuts out.


It's driving me crazy!


Many thanks in advance,
Paul.


On HW-only, is the boiler still receiving a demand - in other words, is it's
switched live input live? If not, you've got a wiring fault.

If it *is* receiving a demand - which seems more likely - it means that
there is no flow under these conditions - despite the pump running - with
the result that the water inside the boiler gets hot, and it then cuts out
on its internal thermostat.

You mentioned that "the CH valve was placed first". Is this still the case,
or have you corrected it? If the water has to flow through *both* valves to
get to the cylinder, but the CH valve is closed, it will give the symptoms
you describe!

The water needs to come from the boiler and through the pump. After the pump
there needs to be a tee-piece, with the HW valve in one leg and the CH valve
in the other so that they are independent of each other. I would suggest
that your problem lies in this area.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Hi Roger,

"The water needs to come from the boiler and through the pump. After
the pump
there needs to be a tee-piece, with the HW valve in one leg and the CH valve
in the other so that they are independent of each other. I would suggest
that your problem lies in this area."


This is exactly how I've changed it to work now. It didn't use to. The
CH valve used to sit in front of the T piece so that water from the
boiler could only reach the pump or the HW valve if the CH was
switched on.

In HW only, the boiler must be receiving a signal for it's demand - it
fires and then switches off again. As the other replier has mentioned
could it be a faulty microswitch on the (brand new) HW valve? If so
then it explains why it opens up okay but the boiler only stays
running with CH switched on. What controls the pump? Is it the same
microswitch or does it feed straight from the controller? If it's from
the microswitch then this doesn't explain why the pump is still
running.

Cheers,
Paul.

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Posts: 9
Default No hot water, heating fine.

On 1 Oct, 10:53, wrote:
On 1 Oct,
wrote:





- CH only. Boiler fires, pump activates, CH motorised valve opens, CH
works fine.
- CH + HW. Boiler fires, pump activates, CH and HW motorised valves
open, CH works fine and have HW.
- HW only. Pump activates, HW motorised valve opens, boiler fires for
about 30secs - 2mins then stops. Pump continues to run and HW
motorised valve stays open.


Has anybody got any idea as to what could be causing this? It can't be
the thermostat on the HW tank as the pump and motorised valve are
still both running/open and it works fine when using CH + HW. There is
still a little bit or air in the system but it is working it's way out
(by bleeding the radiators). No inhibitor has been used yet until I
know I won't have to drain the system again. There can't be a blockage
or air trap in the HW circuit as I get HW when both CH + HW are
switched on. Everything seems fine until the boiler cuts out.


What activates the pump? from your description it sarts before the MVs have
opened. It is normal for the micro switch in the MV to operate the pump and
boiler. Is the one in the HW MV faulty, and opening again after the motor has
fully opened the valve?

--
B Thumbs
Change lycos to yahoo to reply- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I think the pump activates at the same time as the valve opens. I'm
trying to determine whether or not it's the microswitch in the valve
that operates the pump. If it is then I would say the microswitch is
okay. If not, then you're right, the microswitch does sound at fault.
What are your thoughts on this? Do the valves normally operate the
pump or does this come from the main controller?

Cheers,
Paul.

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Posts: 2,488
Default No hot water, heating fine.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:


In HW only, the boiler must be receiving a signal for it's demand - it
fires and then switches off again. As the other replier has mentioned
could it be a faulty microswitch on the (brand new) HW valve? If so
then it explains why it opens up okay but the boiler only stays
running with CH switched on. What controls the pump? Is it the same
microswitch or does it feed straight from the controller? If it's from
the microswitch then this doesn't explain why the pump is still
running.


The boiler must *initially* be receiving a demand, or it wouldn't fire at
all. What I was really asking was, after it shuts down after a couple of
minutes, is it *still* receiving a demand? It's important to establish that,
because it will tell us what to look at next.

With regard to the boiler and pump control, I can only tell you how an
S-Plan is *supposed* to work - there's no guarantee that yours is wired to
work in the conventional way! What is supposed to happen is this:
The HW demand from the programmer feeds through the cylinder stat to the
motor of the HW valve, causing the valve to open. Likewise, the CH demand
from the programmer feeds through the room stat to the motor of the CH
valve. Each zone valve has a pair of 'volt-free' (which means they're
electrically isolated from the motor circuit) contacts. These are wired in
parallel, with one side receiving a permanent live feed and the other side
being connected to the boiler and pump. So, if either (or both) valve is
open, both the boiler and pump get switched on. If you follow the
connections on the S-Plan wiring diagram shown at
http://content.honeywell.com/uk/homes/systems.htm you'll see what I mean.

One slight variation on that will occur if your boiler requires pump
over-run - i.e. if the boiler needs the pump to keep running for a bit after
it stops firing in order to carry away the residual heat. In this case, the
output from the microswitches will *just* control the boiler and the boiler,
in turn, will control the pump - which means that the boiler will need a
permanent live feed as well as switched live so that it can run the pump
after its demand signal has been switched off - and the boiler will have
dedicated 'pump' connections on its connection panel.

Since you seem to have inherited and/or created a *******ised system, I
think you need to go back to basics and check *everything* out thoroughly
without *assuming* anything!
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!




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Posts: 9
Default No hot water, heating fine.

On 1 Oct, 14:38, "Roger Mills" wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

wrote:

In HW only, the boiler must be receiving a signal for it's demand - it
fires and then switches off again. As the other replier has mentioned
could it be a faulty microswitch on the (brand new) HW valve? If so
then it explains why it opens up okay but the boiler only stays
running with CH switched on. What controls the pump? Is it the same
microswitch or does it feed straight from the controller? If it's from
the microswitch then this doesn't explain why the pump is still
running.


The boiler must *initially* be receiving a demand, or it wouldn't fire at
all. What I was really asking was, after it shuts down after a couple of
minutes, is it *still* receiving a demand? It's important to establish that,
because it will tell us what to look at next.

With regard to the boiler and pump control, I can only tell you how an
S-Plan is *supposed* to work - there's no guarantee that yours is wired to
work in the conventional way! What is supposed to happen is this:
The HW demand from the programmer feeds through the cylinder stat to the
motor of the HW valve, causing the valve to open. Likewise, the CH demand
from the programmer feeds through the room stat to the motor of the CH
valve. Each zone valve has a pair of 'volt-free' (which means they're
electrically isolated from the motor circuit) contacts. These are wired in
parallel, with one side receiving a permanent live feed and the other side
being connected to the boiler and pump. So, if either (or both) valve is
open, both the boiler and pump get switched on. If you follow the
connections on the S-Plan wiring diagram shown athttp://content.honeywell.com/uk/homes/systems.htmyou'll see what I mean.

One slight variation on that will occur if your boiler requires pump
over-run - i.e. if the boiler needs the pump to keep running for a bit after
it stops firing in order to carry away the residual heat. In this case, the
output from the microswitches will *just* control the boiler and the boiler,
in turn, will control the pump - which means that the boiler will need a
permanent live feed as well as switched live so that it can run the pump
after its demand signal has been switched off - and the boiler will have
dedicated 'pump' connections on its connection panel.

Since you seem to have inherited and/or created a *******ised system, I
think you need to go back to basics and check *everything* out thoroughly
without *assuming* anything!
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!


Thanks for your reply Roger.

You are right in that I inherited a *******ised system. Other DIY
projects in my house implies that the previous owner may have taken
one of two other shortcuts (I know that's what I'm also trying to do!)
You are also right in that I may have created another *******ised
system. It looks very logical to me now and the piping makes sense
with how it "flows". Water from boiler goes through pump to T piece -
one to CH motorised valve, one to HW motorised valve. I will check the
operation of each unit again tonight and check to see what each piece
is doing at each setting.

One question though, if the HW pipe from the T piece is immediately
reduced from 22mm to 15mm would this cause a build up of pressure and
therefore overheat the boiler, causing it to cut out? If so, then this
could explain how each piece is working the way it does, and why
everything is still running when the boiler cuts out. What I plan to
do tonight is turn the HW on by itself but set the CH motorised valve
to manual (open) to relieve the pressure. If the boiler cuts out then
it must be something else, otherwise it surely comes down to pressure?

That Honeywell schematic is the diagram I followed when re-piping the
system but I know I shouldn't assume anything!

Cheers,
Paul.

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Posts: 2,488
Default No hot water, heating fine.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:


Thanks for your reply Roger.

You are right in that I inherited a *******ised system. Other DIY
projects in my house implies that the previous owner may have taken
one of two other shortcuts (I know that's what I'm also trying to do!)
You are also right in that I may have created another *******ised
system. It looks very logical to me now and the piping makes sense
with how it "flows". Water from boiler goes through pump to T piece -
one to CH motorised valve, one to HW motorised valve. I will check the
operation of each unit again tonight and check to see what each piece
is doing at each setting.

One question though, if the HW pipe from the T piece is immediately
reduced from 22mm to 15mm would this cause a build up of pressure and
therefore overheat the boiler, causing it to cut out?


I wouldn't have thought so. Unless there is an actual blockage, you should
be able to get enough water through a 15mm pipe to keep the boiler happy.
The boiler will cycle, of course, if the HW cylinder isn't absorbing its
full output, but it should run for far more than 2 minutes to start with if
the water in the cylinder is cold.

If so, then this
could explain how each piece is working the way it does, and why
everything is still running when the boiler cuts out. What I plan to
do tonight is turn the HW on by itself but set the CH motorised valve
to manual (open) to relieve the pressure. If the boiler cuts out then
it must be something else, otherwise it surely comes down to pressure?


Well, when the boiler cuts out, get a volt-meter and see whether the
boiler's 'switched live' (demand) input is still at 240v. That's the only
thing which will indicate whether it's a plumbing problem or an electrical
problem. [Are you sure that the water in the cylinder isn't hot enough, so
the stat is closing the valve and switching off the boiler? If you turn the
cyl stat up, does the boiler start again after a few seconds?]

Other things to think about . . .
How do the HW and CH returns get back to the boiler? Where are the vent and
fill pipes connected into the flow pipe? Did you move them when you
converted from gravity HW to fully pumped - 'cos you might need to?! Is
there any evidence of 'pumping over' in HW-only mode?


That Honeywell schematic is the diagram I followed when re-piping the
system but I know I shouldn't assume anything!


Yes, but what about the wiring diagram? If you'd checked whether your system
complied with *that* you wouldn't be uncertain about things like what was
controlling the pump!
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!


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