Hi All,

Your advice would be appreciated.

I've just bought a house with lots of decking - the sort you buy in
planks at Focus, and probably other DIY stores too. The previous owner
has told me "all it needs is a pressure-wash twice a year".

However, every time I pass all those different pots of wood preservative
(Light Oak, Dark Oak, Forest Green, etc.,) I wonder if I should be
slapping some on all my decking, outside stairs, railings, and the like.
Or are the preservative-makers just out to take us for a ride.

Firing a pressure-washer twice a year over all the wood is likely to be
easier, I think, than carefully painting every inch every . . .
how-many-years?

What do you think?

Thanks.

Eddy.

"Eddy Bentley" wrote in
message ...
Hi All,

Your advice would be appreciated.

I've just bought a house with lots of decking - the sort you buy in
planks at Focus, and probably other DIY stores too. The previous
owner
has told me "all it needs is a pressure-wash twice a year".

However, every time I pass all those different pots of wood
preservative
(Light Oak, Dark Oak, Forest Green, etc.,) I wonder if I should be
slapping some on all my decking, outside stairs, railings, and the
like.
Or are the preservative-makers just out to take us for a ride.

Firing a pressure-washer twice a year over all the wood is likely to
be
easier, I think, than carefully painting every inch every . . .
how-many-years?

What do you think?

Thanks.

Eddy.


Pull it all up and put down a decent flooring of stone or imitation
stone. Decking looks awful, goes slimey green after a few years, then
you put your foot through the rotten bit. Rip it out and replace with
a proper surface and in years to comes when people talk about decking
in the same tones that they do about avocado baths you'll know you did
the right thing.

AWEM

Andrew Mawson wrote:
Pull it all up and put down a decent flooring of stone or imitation
stone.

Er, "thanks", Andrew, but to rip this lot up and replace it all in stone
. . . that would cost an ARM and a LEG! Anyway, this decking has been
down for two years already and it seems not to have gone a slimey green
yet . . . though, admittedly, there are bits of green here and there.
But that's probably because we've had a hell of a lot of rain recently
and it has been pressure-washed recently.

Actually, all the decking around this house has been remarkably well
done and its a pleasure to look at and use. The question is: how best
to preserve it?

Eddy.

"Eddy Bentley" wrote in
message ...
Andrew Mawson wrote:
Pull it all up and put down a decent flooring of stone or
imitation
stone.

Er, "thanks", Andrew, but to rip this lot up and replace it all in
stone
. . that would cost an ARM and a LEG! Anyway, this decking has
been
down for two years already and it seems not to have gone a slimey
green
yet . . . though, admittedly, there are bits of green here and
there.
But that's probably because we've had a hell of a lot of rain
recently
and it has been pressure-washed recently.

Actually, all the decking around this house has been remarkably well
done and its a pleasure to look at and use. The question is: how
best
to preserve it?

Eddy.



Well without ripping it up (the kindest thing to do for future
generations!) you will only be able to give is a superficial coating
in the areas least in need. The water will sit/soak in where the
decking sits on the joists. Both hopefully were pressure treated
before laying the deck, and there is no way you'll get your
preservative in there without dismantling. Anything else is only
slightly delaying the inevitable decline into a loathsome slimey mess
G If you don't do the nice thing and rip it all out, at least ensure
that there is good ventilation from at least three sides

AWEM

AWEM

Eddy Bentley wrote:
Hi All,

Your advice would be appreciated.

I've just bought a house with lots of decking - the sort you buy in
planks at Focus, and probably other DIY stores too. The previous
owner has told me "all it needs is a pressure-wash twice a year".

However, every time I pass all those different pots of wood
preservative (Light Oak, Dark Oak, Forest Green, etc.,) I wonder if I
should be slapping some on all my decking, outside stairs, railings,
and the like. Or are the preservative-makers just out to take us for
a ride.

Firing a pressure-washer twice a year over all the wood is likely to
be easier, I think, than carefully painting every inch every . . .
how-many-years?

What do you think?

Thanks.

Eddy.

Eddy,

Quite simply if the boards are of good quality tanalised timber, then it
should last a minimum of 10 - 15 years before beginning to rot - even if
left untreated.

If you want it to look pretty at all times - or even try to extend the life
of it - then give it coat of 'whatever colour you fancy'.

With regards to "are the preservative-makers just out to take us for a ride"
then the answer to that is generally no - particularly with the good quality
stuff.

As a matter of interest, I use Sadolin (at £30 a 2.5ltr tin) to coat my
shiplap garden shed with 2 coats minimum and this will last at least 5 years
before needing a recoat - with minimal repair works to rotted or damaged
boards.



Brian G

Andrew Mawson wrote:
"Eddy Bentley" wrote in
message ...
Hi All,

Your advice would be appreciated.

I've just bought a house with lots of decking - the sort you buy in
planks at Focus, and probably other DIY stores too. The previous
owner
has told me "all it needs is a pressure-wash twice a year".

However, every time I pass all those different pots of wood
preservative
(Light Oak, Dark Oak, Forest Green, etc.,) I wonder if I should be
slapping some on all my decking, outside stairs, railings, and the
like.
Or are the preservative-makers just out to take us for a ride.

Firing a pressure-washer twice a year over all the wood is likely to
be
easier, I think, than carefully painting every inch every . . .
how-many-years?

What do you think?

Thanks.

Eddy.


Pull it all up and put down a decent flooring of stone or imitation
stone. Decking looks awful, goes slimey green after a few years, then
you put your foot through the rotten bit. Rip it out and replace with
a proper surface and in years to comes when people talk about decking
in the same tones that they do about avocado baths you'll know you did
the right thing.

AWEM


I liked avocado baths....

Andrew Mawson wrote:
"Eddy Bentley" wrote in
message ...
Andrew Mawson wrote:
Pull it all up and put down a decent flooring of stone or
imitation
stone.
Er, "thanks", Andrew, but to rip this lot up and replace it all in
stone
. . that would cost an ARM and a LEG! Anyway, this decking has
been
down for two years already and it seems not to have gone a slimey
green
yet . . . though, admittedly, there are bits of green here and
there.
But that's probably because we've had a hell of a lot of rain
recently
and it has been pressure-washed recently.

Actually, all the decking around this house has been remarkably well
done and its a pleasure to look at and use. The question is: how
best
to preserve it?

Eddy.



Well without ripping it up (the kindest thing to do for future
generations!)

Nah. Let nature do its work.


you will only be able to give is a superficial coating
in the areas least in need. The water will sit/soak in where the
decking sits on the joists. Both hopefully were pressure treated
before laying the deck, and there is no way you'll get your
preservative in there without dismantling. Anything else is only
slightly delaying the inevitable decline into a loathsome slimey mess
G If you don't do the nice thing and rip it all out, at least ensure
that there is good ventilation from at least three sides


May look better with a coat or three of whatever replaced creosote,
every few years.

AWEM

AWEM

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Pull it all up and put down a decent flooring of stone or imitation
stone. Decking looks awful, goes slimey green after a few years, then
you put your foot through the rotten bit. Rip it out and replace with
a proper surface and in years to comes when people talk about decking
in the same tones that they do about avocado baths you'll know you did
the right thing.

AWEM


I liked avocado baths....
Cleopatra preferred asses milk baths. They probably had fewer stones.
;-)

Andrew Mawson wrote:
"Eddy Bentley" wrote in
message ...
Hi All,

Your advice would be appreciated.

I've just bought a house with lots of decking - the sort you buy in
planks at Focus, and probably other DIY stores too. The previous
owner has told me "all it needs is a pressure-wash twice a year".

However, every time I pass all those different pots of wood
preservative (Light Oak, Dark Oak, Forest Green, etc.,) I wonder if
I should be slapping some on all my decking, outside stairs,
railings, and the like. Or are the preservative-makers just out to
take us for a ride.

Firing a pressure-washer twice a year over all the wood is likely to
be easier, I think, than carefully painting every inch every . . .
how-many-years?

What do you think?

Thanks.

Eddy.


Pull it all up and put down a decent flooring of stone or imitation
stone. Decking looks awful, goes slimey green after a few years, then
you put your foot through the rotten bit. Rip it out and replace with
a proper surface and in years to comes when people talk about decking
in the same tones that they do about avocado baths you'll know you did
the right thing.

Utter tosh!

Decking great & provides a much nicer surface than stone ever could.
Decking is no more slippery than stone either and provided it was pressure
treated will last 30 years +.

Avocado bathrooms? What about pink & yellow slab patios?

Simply pressure wash or use decking cleaner once a year.

Decking treatments protect the timber from dirt & stains and stop the UV
light turning it a silvery grey colour. If it was pressure treated it is
effectively 100% resistant to rot & insect atack.

Decking oil is my favourite treatment, looks natural & easy to apply.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message k...
Andrew Mawson wrote:
"Eddy Bentley" wrote in
message ...
Hi All,

Your advice would be appreciated.

I've just bought a house with lots of decking - the sort you buy
in
planks at Focus, and probably other DIY stores too. The previous
owner has told me "all it needs is a pressure-wash twice a year".

However, every time I pass all those different pots of wood
preservative (Light Oak, Dark Oak, Forest Green, etc.,) I wonder
if
I should be slapping some on all my decking, outside stairs,
railings, and the like. Or are the preservative-makers just out
to
take us for a ride.

Firing a pressure-washer twice a year over all the wood is likely
to
be easier, I think, than carefully painting every inch every . .
..
how-many-years?

What do you think?

Thanks.

Eddy.


Pull it all up and put down a decent flooring of stone or
imitation
stone. Decking looks awful, goes slimey green after a few years,
then
you put your foot through the rotten bit. Rip it out and replace
with
a proper surface and in years to comes when people talk about
decking
in the same tones that they do about avocado baths you'll know you
did
the right thing.

Utter tosh!

Decking great & provides a much nicer surface than stone ever
could.
Decking is no more slippery than stone either and provided it was
pressure
treated will last 30 years +.

Avocado bathrooms? What about pink & yellow slab patios?

Simply pressure wash or use decking cleaner once a year.

Decking treatments protect the timber from dirt & stains and stop
the UV
light turning it a silvery grey colour. If it was pressure treated
it is
effectively 100% resistant to rot & insect atack.

Decking oil is my favourite treatment, looks natural & easy to
apply.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257



....ah ... an unbiased opinion from one who makes a living installing
decking perhaps G Decking in most situations is appalling,
unsightly, and limited in the longevity stakes.

AWEM

"Anne Jackson" wrote in message
..
..
SNIP


Pull it all up and put down a decent flooring of stone or
imitation
stone. Decking looks awful, goes slimey green after a few years,
then
you put your foot through the rotten bit. Rip it out and replace
with
a proper surface and in years to comes when people talk about
decking
in the same tones that they do about avocado baths you'll know you
did
the right thing.

Yeah, great idea. Because of the slope of my garden, the decking
in front of the summerhouse is about four feet up in the air...
don't you think stone. slabs, etc. _that_ high up would be just
a tad dangerous?

--
AnneJ


If you fall off decking from four foot up it must be very similar to
falling off a proper terrace of the same height ! I am aware that
decking adversely alters the aesthetics of the locale, but I wasn't
aware it also affected gravity G Any terrace, whether decking or a
properly constructed paved one should have either a series of steps or
a ballustrade if four foot high at the edge.

AWEM

In article ,
Andrew Mawson wrote:

...ah ... an unbiased opinion from one who makes a living
installing decking perhaps G Decking in most situations is
appalling, unsightly, and limited in the longevity stakes.

I don't know about towns, but decking in country areas
seems to attract rats. Brings them too close to the
house for comfort, and those open patio doors.........

--
Tony Williams.

On 5 Aug, 20:03, Eddy Bentley
wrote:
Hi All,

Your advice would be appreciated.

I've just bought a house with lots of decking - the sort you buy in
planks at Focus, and probably other DIY stores too. The previous owner
has told me "all it needs is a pressure-wash twice a year".

However, every time I pass all those different pots of wood preservative
(Light Oak, Dark Oak, Forest Green, etc.,) I wonder if I should be
slapping some on all my decking, outside stairs, railings, and the like.
Or are the preservative-makers just out to take us for a ride.

Firing a pressure-washer twice a year over all the wood is likely to be
easier, I think, than carefully painting every inch every . . .
how-many-years?

What do you think?

Thanks.

Eddy.

Dear Eddie
Tanalised timber at say 4 kgs per cub m should last 50 years (min) if
not in ground contact. Tanalised timber to (I think 8kgs/c m) is
designed to last 50 years in ground contact when used as motorway
fence posts and in the case of the M 1 I understand have performed to
standard.
IF
1) none of the decking is in gound contact (or the supportive elements
are isolated)
2) any cut ends exposing the non-tanlised timber have properly been
treated
then the wood should see both of us out out lifetime and probably our
kids

With respect to washing ..... I am confused but presume that this is
to prevent accumlation of algae etc
If this is happening I suspect you have not got the right water
repellent presevative stain on the surface to stop this and I agree
with the other post that to put on saddolins would do no harm and
would only be needed to be done every 18 months to 3 years dependant
on the weather and use.

I would look at the structure and check how it is supported relative
to the ground and put my efforts into treating or attending to that
location.
If, for example, there are tanlised posts set in the ground THAT is
where the risk is at the interface at ground level and were I to do
anything it would be to put a pea shingle bed around the top 150mm of
post where it meets the ground.
Chris

Many thanks to all posters, so far, who have given really helpful info
about preserving existing decking.

Having just moved in, one of the first jobs I've done is clear away
grass and earth as much as possible where they come into contact with
the steps (made out of decking) which lead from the road up to the
house. Doing so, I've noticed that that wood in contact with the earth
is not in as good a condition as that which is surrounded by air.
Unfortunately, I can't do much about the ends of the supports which have
needed to be driven into the ground - although maybe I won't water
adjacent plants so much as others!

From what most of you have said it seems that, indeed, pressure-washing
should suffice. It certainly seems to have kept the wood generally
clean so far.

Aesthetics has a little to do with my question. All the decking here
(including steps, railings, stairs and ballustrades), having never been
coated and only pressure-washed, is grey in colour. There is thus a
clash between the colour of the decking and the colour of the varnished
honey-brown window frames. We're inclined to coat the decking in
honey-brown too, to achieve visual harmony. However, from what people
have said here it sounds like doing this won't add much to the life of
the decking.

Can I ask you all if there really are big differences between the
different pots of wood coatings/preservatives? We bought a large tin
of some "Forest Green" stuff the other day to make an unsightly trellis
disappear into the greenery behind it . . . and it only cost £5.
However, people here have mentioned Sadolins at £22 (approx) a tin. IF
we're really only talking aesthetic effect (colour) at the end of the
day, in using this stuff, then are there good reasons for paying £22 a
tin instead of £5?

Eddy.

Eddy Bentley wrote:
Many thanks to all posters, so far, who have given really helpful info
about preserving existing decking.

Having just moved in, one of the first jobs I've done is clear away
grass and earth as much as possible where they come into contact with
the steps (made out of decking) which lead from the road up to the
house.

Tsk Tsk. Never get THAT past building regs. Ought to be a wheelchair
ramp.. ;-)

Doing so, I've noticed that that wood in contact with the earth
is not in as good a condition as that which is surrounded by air.
Unfortunately, I can't do much about the ends of the supports which have
needed to be driven into the ground - although maybe I won't water
adjacent plants so much as others!

From what most of you have said it seems that, indeed, pressure-washing
should suffice. It certainly seems to have kept the wood generally
clean so far.

Aesthetics has a little to do with my question. All the decking here
(including steps, railings, stairs and ballustrades), having never been
coated and only pressure-washed, is grey in colour. There is thus a
clash between the colour of the decking and the colour of the varnished
honey-brown window frames. We're inclined to coat the decking in
honey-brown too, to achieve visual harmony. However, from what people
have said here it sounds like doing this won't add much to the life of
the decking.


It will if you do it every year. And believe me,it will need it.

Exterior varnishes don't last.


Can I ask you all if there really are big differences between the
different pots of wood coatings/preservatives? We bought a large tin
of some "Forest Green" stuff the other day to make an unsightly trellis
disappear into the greenery behind it . . . and it only cost £5.
However, people here have mentioned Sadolins at £22 (approx) a tin. IF
we're really only talking aesthetic effect (colour) at the end of the
day, in using this stuff, then are there good reasons for paying £22 a
tin instead of £5?


I've been VERY diappointed with sadolin.

Eddy.

On 6 Aug, 10:41, Eddy Bentley
wrote:
Many thanks to all posters, so far, who have given really helpful info
about preserving existing decking.

Having just moved in, one of the first jobs I've done is clear away
grass and earth as much as possible where they come into contact with
the steps (made out of decking) which lead from the road up to the
house. Doing so, I've noticed that that wood in contact with the earth
is not in as good a condition as that which is surrounded by air.
Unfortunately, I can't do much about the ends of the supports which have
needed to be driven into the ground - although maybe I won't water
adjacent plants so much as others!

From what most of you have said it seems that, indeed, pressure-washing
should suffice. It certainly seems to have kept the wood generally
clean so far.

Aesthetics has a little to do with my question. All the decking here
(including steps, railings, stairs and ballustrades), having never been
coated and only pressure-washed, is grey in colour. There is thus a
clash between the colour of the decking and the colour of the varnished
honey-brown window frames. We're inclined to coat the decking in
honey-brown too, to achieve visual harmony. However, from what people
have said here it sounds like doing this won't add much to the life of
the decking.

Can I ask you all if there really are big differences between the
different pots of wood coatings/preservatives? We bought a large tin
of some "Forest Green" stuff the other day to make an unsightly trellis
disappear into the greenery behind it . . . and it only cost £5.
However, people here have mentioned Sadolins at £22 (approx) a tin. IF
we're really only talking aesthetic effect (colour) at the end of the
day, in using this stuff, then are there good reasons for paying £22 a
tin instead of £5?

Eddy.

Eddy
you need to differentiate between a wood preservative and a wood
"paint" or covering
A preservative is designed to get into the side grain of the timber
with an active ingredient such as permethrin or cypermethrin (for
insects) and a variety of organo-metallic compounds for fungal decay
or simply boron based compounds. ONLY pressure treatment in a water
based Tanalith (what used to be CCA treatment) will chemically combine
with the hydroxyl groups in the timber to form a pretty permanent
fixation. All OS borne (eg vac vac) and aquavac treatments only use a
carrier fluid to get the active ingredient is as far as it can - which
depends on the porosity of the wood (a natural feature) and a variety
of other factors. Thus ANY site treatment is limited in it efficacy
PARTICULARLY if you are going to pressure wash it every year! So,
given that you are treating already treated timber (tanalised) all you
need is a good water repellant preservative stain. You have a choice
of low medium and high build. There are data published on these by
BRE. Based on personal experience over 30 plus years I now do use
Saddolins and just re coat every few years. the advantage is that it
"chalks" and you dont have to scrape off the old layer as one does
with oil-based paints.
There are much cheaper water repellent stains on the market but I have
found them unsatisfactory for windows - which is what I use them for
but you may well find them fine for decking so I would try them both
in different areas and see how each lasts.
Let me know in 12 to 36 months' time!
Chris

wrote:
On 6 Aug, 10:41, Eddy Bentley
wrote:
Many thanks to all posters, so far, who have given really helpful
info about preserving existing decking.

Having just moved in, one of the first jobs I've done is clear away
grass and earth as much as possible where they come into contact with
the steps (made out of decking) which lead from the road up to the
house. Doing so, I've noticed that that wood in contact with the
earth is not in as good a condition as that which is surrounded by
air. Unfortunately, I can't do much about the ends of the supports
which have needed to be driven into the ground - although maybe I
won't water adjacent plants so much as others!

From what most of you have said it seems that, indeed,
pressure-washing should suffice. It certainly seems to have kept
the wood generally clean so far.

Aesthetics has a little to do with my question. All the decking here
(including steps, railings, stairs and ballustrades), having never
been coated and only pressure-washed, is grey in colour. There is
thus a clash between the colour of the decking and the colour of the
varnished honey-brown window frames. We're inclined to coat the
decking in honey-brown too, to achieve visual harmony. However,
from what people have said here it sounds like doing this won't add
much to the life of the decking.

Can I ask you all if there really are big differences between the
different pots of wood coatings/preservatives? We bought a large
tin of some "Forest Green" stuff the other day to make an unsightly
trellis disappear into the greenery behind it . . . and it only cost
£5. However, people here have mentioned Sadolins at £22 (approx) a
tin. IF we're really only talking aesthetic effect (colour) at the
end of the day, in using this stuff, then are there good reasons for
paying £22 a tin instead of £5?

Eddy.

Eddy
you need to differentiate between a wood preservative and a wood
"paint" or covering
A preservative is designed to get into the side grain of the timber
with an active ingredient such as permethrin or cypermethrin (for
insects) and a variety of organo-metallic compounds for fungal decay
or simply boron based compounds. ONLY pressure treatment in a water
based Tanalith (what used to be CCA treatment) will chemically combine
with the hydroxyl groups in the timber to form a pretty permanent
fixation. All OS borne (eg vac vac) and aquavac treatments only use a
carrier fluid to get the active ingredient is as far as it can - which
depends on the porosity of the wood (a natural feature) and a variety
of other factors. Thus ANY site treatment is limited in it efficacy
PARTICULARLY if you are going to pressure wash it every year! So,
given that you are treating already treated timber (tanalised) all you
need is a good water repellant preservative stain. You have a choice
of low medium and high build. There are data published on these by
BRE. Based on personal experience over 30 plus years I now do use
Saddolins and just re coat every few years. the advantage is that it
"chalks" and you dont have to scrape off the old layer as one does
with oil-based paints.
There are much cheaper water repellent stains on the market but I have
found them unsatisfactory for windows - which is what I use them for
but you may well find them fine for decking so I would try them both
in different areas and see how each lasts.
Let me know in 12 to 36 months' time!
Chris

Chris

Will you please, please write all this stuff up for the FAQ? You obviously
know your stuff and it would be a great resource.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On Aug 6, 8:44 pm, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
wrote:
On 6 Aug, 10:41, Eddy Bentley
wrote:
Many thanks to all posters, so far, who have given really helpful
info about preserving existing decking.

Having just moved in, one of the first jobs I've done is clear away
grass and earth as much as possible where they come into contact with
the steps (made out of decking) which lead from the road up to the
house. Doing so, I've noticed that that wood in contact with the
earth is not in as good a condition as that which is surrounded by
air. Unfortunately, I can't do much about the ends of the supports
which have needed to be driven into the ground - although maybe I
won't water adjacent plants so much as others!

From what most of you have said it seems that, indeed,
pressure-washing should suffice. It certainly seems to have kept
the wood generally clean so far.

Aesthetics has a little to do with my question. All the decking here
(including steps, railings, stairs and ballustrades), having never
been coated and only pressure-washed, is grey in colour. There is
thus a clash between the colour of the decking and the colour of the
varnished honey-brown window frames. We're inclined to coat the
decking in honey-brown too, to achieve visual harmony. However,
from what people have said here it sounds like doing this won't add
much to the life of the decking.

Can I ask you all if there really are big differences between the
different pots of wood coatings/preservatives? We bought a large
tin of some "Forest Green" stuff the other day to make an unsightly
trellis disappear into the greenery behind it . . . and it only cost
£5. However, people here have mentioned Sadolins at £22 (approx) a
tin. IF we're really only talking aesthetic effect (colour) at the
end of the day, in using this stuff, then are there good reasons for
paying £22 a tin instead of £5?

Eddy.

Eddy
you need to differentiate between a wood preservative and a wood
"paint" or covering
A preservative is designed to get into the side grain of the timber
with an active ingredient such as permethrin or cypermethrin (for
insects) and a variety of organo-metallic compounds for fungal decay
or simply boron based compounds. ONLY pressure treatment in a water
based Tanalith (what used to be CCA treatment) will chemically combine
with the hydroxyl groups in the timber to form a pretty permanent
fixation. All OS borne (eg vac vac) and aquavac treatments only use a
carrier fluid to get the active ingredient is as far as it can - which
depends on the porosity of the wood (a natural feature) and a variety
of other factors. Thus ANY site treatment is limited in it efficacy
PARTICULARLY if you are going to pressure wash it every year! So,
given that you are treating already treated timber (tanalised) all you
need is a good water repellant preservative stain. You have a choice
of low medium and high build. There are data published on these by
BRE. Based on personal experience over 30 plus years I now do use
Saddolins and just re coat every few years. the advantage is that it
"chalks" and you dont have to scrape off the old layer as one does
with oil-based paints.
There are much cheaper water repellent stains on the market but I have
found them unsatisfactory for windows - which is what I use them for
but you may well find them fine for decking so I would try them both
in different areas and see how each lasts.
Let me know in 12 to 36 months' time!
Chris

Chris

Will you please, please write all this stuff up for the FAQ? You obviously
know your stuff and it would be a great resource.

Maybe the FAQ could just reference the relevant posts.

I'd be interested to know what Chris thinks of copper napthanate wood
preserver, does it leach out much if at all?

cheers,
Pete.
cheers,
Pete.

Chris wrote:

given that you are treating already treated timber (tanalised) all you
need is a good water repellant preservative stain. You have a choice
of low medium and high build.

Chris, you're "a brick"! Many thanks, indeed!

Thanks, also, to all helpful others!

Eddy.

On 5 Aug, 20:03, Eddy Bentley
wrote:
Hi All,

Your advice would be appreciated.

I've just bought a house with lots of decking - the sort you buy in
planks at Focus, and probably other DIY stores too. The previous owner
has told me "all it needs is a pressure-wash twice a year".

However, every time I pass all those different pots of wood preservative
(Light Oak, Dark Oak, Forest Green, etc.,) I wonder if I should be
slapping some on all my decking, outside stairs, railings, and the like.
Or are the preservative-makers just out to take us for a ride.

Firing a pressure-washer twice a year over all the wood is likely to be
easier, I think, than carefully painting every inch every . . .
how-many-years?

What do you think?

Thanks.

Eddy.

Don't use any of the stuff commonly sold for fences etc. These are
stains and only coat the surface of the timber.

You will find that this quickly wears off decking and looks patchy and
awful.

Use a penetrating oil, such as deck oil, and this will soak into the
timber and not wear off like a stain does.

Decking is generally pressure treated before you buy it, and so does
not need extra protection. You are only coating it for appearance

dg

On 6 Aug, 21:21, Pete C wrote:
On Aug 6, 8:44 pm, "The Medway Handyman"





wrote:
wrote:
On 6 Aug, 10:41, Eddy Bentley
wrote:
Many thanks to all posters, so far, who have given really helpful
info about preserving existing decking.

Having just moved in, one of the first jobs I've done is clear away
grass and earth as much as possible where they come into contact with
the steps (made out of decking) which lead from the road up to the
house. Doing so, I've noticed that that wood in contact with the
earth is not in as good a condition as that which is surrounded by
air. Unfortunately, I can't do much about the ends of the supports
which have needed to be driven into the ground - although maybe I
won't water adjacent plants so much as others!

From what most of you have said it seems that, indeed,
pressure-washing should suffice. It certainly seems to have kept
the wood generally clean so far.

Aesthetics has a little to do with my question. All the decking here
(including steps, railings, stairs and ballustrades), having never
been coated and only pressure-washed, is grey in colour. There is
thus a clash between the colour of the decking and the colour of the
varnished honey-brown window frames. We're inclined to coat the
decking in honey-brown too, to achieve visual harmony. However,
from what people have said here it sounds like doing this won't add
much to the life of the decking.

Can I ask you all if there really are big differences between the
different pots of wood coatings/preservatives? We bought a large
tin of some "Forest Green" stuff the other day to make an unsightly
trellis disappear into the greenery behind it . . . and it only cost
£5. However, people here have mentioned Sadolins at £22 (approx) a
tin. IF we're really only talking aesthetic effect (colour) at the
end of the day, in using this stuff, then are there good reasons for
paying £22 a tin instead of £5?

Eddy.

Eddy
you need to differentiate between a wood preservative and a wood
"paint" or covering
A preservative is designed to get into the side grain of the timber
with an active ingredient such as permethrin or cypermethrin (for
insects) and a variety of organo-metallic compounds for fungal decay
or simply boron based compounds. ONLY pressure treatment in a water
based Tanalith (what used to be CCA treatment) will chemically combine
with the hydroxyl groups in the timber to form a pretty permanent
fixation. All OS borne (eg vac vac) and aquavac treatments only use a
carrier fluid to get the active ingredient is as far as it can - which
depends on the porosity of the wood (a natural feature) and a variety
of other factors. Thus ANY site treatment is limited in it efficacy
PARTICULARLY if you are going to pressure wash it every year! So,
given that you are treating already treated timber (tanalised) all you
need is a good water repellant preservative stain. You have a choice
of low medium and high build. There are data published on these by
BRE. Based on personal experience over 30 plus years I now do use
Saddolins and just re coat every few years. the advantage is that it
"chalks" and you dont have to scrape off the old layer as one does
with oil-based paints.
There are much cheaper water repellent stains on the market but I have
found them unsatisfactory for windows - which is what I use them for
but you may well find them fine for decking so I would try them both
in different areas and see how each lasts.
Let me know in 12 to 36 months' time!
Chris

Chris

Will you please, please write all this stuff up for the FAQ? You obviously
know your stuff and it would be a great resource.

Maybe the FAQ could just reference the relevant posts.

I'd be interested to know what Chris thinks of copper napthanate wood
preserver, does it leach out much if at all?

cheers,
Pete.
cheers,
Pete.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Don't have any data on Cu napth specificallly but am inclined to think
this is the basis of a well known green coloured product and know that
its penetrative powers are similar to all other brush on gear - ie
poor and thus subject to leaching. It matters not because the efficacy
of such a product is limited in the first place as a fungicide and
really it is only good as an end grain protector - the side grain
penetration being pretty damn limited. I have a piece of such treated
timber where the dry rot has translocated the Cu and shows all the
decay as it it has not been treated. I used this as a visual
demonstration when lecturing to architects and engineers etc on the
SPAB course for professionals some years back and it was a very
effective visual aid!
I will - if I get a moment look up the data on leeching and come back
to you but at present am on site putting in 12 to 16 hour days and
with only the odd chance at checking my email!
Chris

On 6 Aug, 20:44, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
wrote:
On 6 Aug, 10:41, Eddy Bentley
wrote:
Many thanks to all posters, so far, who have given really helpful
info about preserving existing decking.

Having just moved in, one of the first jobs I've done is clear away
grass and earth as much as possible where they come into contact with
the steps (made out of decking) which lead from the road up to the
house. Doing so, I've noticed that that wood in contact with the
earth is not in as good a condition as that which is surrounded by
air. Unfortunately, I can't do much about the ends of the supports
which have needed to be driven into the ground - although maybe I
won't water adjacent plants so much as others!

From what most of you have said it seems that, indeed,
pressure-washing should suffice. It certainly seems to have kept
the wood generally clean so far.

Aesthetics has a little to do with my question. All the decking here
(including steps, railings, stairs and ballustrades), having never
been coated and only pressure-washed, is grey in colour. There is
thus a clash between the colour of the decking and the colour of the
varnished honey-brown window frames. We're inclined to coat the
decking in honey-brown too, to achieve visual harmony. However,
from what people have said here it sounds like doing this won't add
much to the life of the decking.

Can I ask you all if there really are big differences between the
different pots of wood coatings/preservatives? We bought a large
tin of some "Forest Green" stuff the other day to make an unsightly
trellis disappear into the greenery behind it . . . and it only cost
£5. However, people here have mentioned Sadolins at £22 (approx) a
tin. IF we're really only talking aesthetic effect (colour) at the
end of the day, in using this stuff, then are there good reasons for
paying £22 a tin instead of £5?

Eddy.

Eddy
you need to differentiate between a wood preservative and a wood
"paint" or covering
A preservative is designed to get into the side grain of the timber
with an active ingredient such as permethrin or cypermethrin (for
insects) and a variety of organo-metallic compounds for fungal decay
or simply boron based compounds. ONLY pressure treatment in a water
based Tanalith (what used to be CCA treatment) will chemically combine
with the hydroxyl groups in the timber to form a pretty permanent
fixation. All OS borne (eg vac vac) and aquavac treatments only use a
carrier fluid to get the active ingredient is as far as it can - which
depends on the porosity of the wood (a natural feature) and a variety
of other factors. Thus ANY site treatment is limited in it efficacy
PARTICULARLY if you are going to pressure wash it every year! So,
given that you are treating already treated timber (tanalised) all you
need is a good water repellant preservative stain. You have a choice
of low medium and high build. There are data published on these by
BRE. Based on personal experience over 30 plus years I now do use
Saddolins and just re coat every few years. the advantage is that it
"chalks" and you dont have to scrape off the old layer as one does
with oil-based paints.
There are much cheaper water repellent stains on the market but I have
found them unsatisfactory for windows - which is what I use them for
but you may well find them fine for decking so I would try them both
in different areas and see how each lasts.
Let me know in 12 to 36 months' time!
Chris

Chris

Will you please, please write all this stuff up for the FAQ? You obviously
know your stuff and it would be a great resource.

--
Dave
The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk 01634 717930 07850 597257 - Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My pleasure
but as I said am well busy at the moment and it will be post
September as I am DIY SWIMBO's house in N Wales as the guys on site
need a little help with their organisation!

Anne Jackson wrote:
The message from "Brian G" contains these words:

Eddy Bentley wrote:
Hi All,

Your advice would be appreciated.

I've just bought a house with lots of decking - the sort you buy in
planks at Focus, and probably other DIY stores too. The previous
owner has told me "all it needs is a pressure-wash twice a year".

However, every time I pass all those different pots of wood
preservative (Light Oak, Dark Oak, Forest Green, etc.,) I wonder if
I should be slapping some on all my decking, outside stairs,
railings, and the like. Or are the preservative-makers just out to
take us for a ride.

Firing a pressure-washer twice a year over all the wood is likely to
be easier, I think, than carefully painting every inch every . . .
how-many-years?

What do you think?

Thanks.

Eddy.

Eddy,

Quite simply if the boards are of good quality tanalised timber,
then it should last a minimum of 10 - 15 years before beginning to
rot - even if left untreated.

If you want it to look pretty at all times - or even try to extend
the life of it - then give it coat of 'whatever colour you fancy'.

With regards to "are the preservative-makers just out to take us for
a ride"
then the answer to that is generally no - particularly with the good
quality
stuff.

As a matter of interest, I use Sadolin (at £30 a 2.5ltr tin) to coat
my shiplap garden shed with 2 coats minimum and this will last at
least 5 years
before needing a recoat - with minimal repair works to rotted or
damaged boards.

How big is your shed? I'm just trying to work out how much it would
cost to coat a 10' X 8' garden shed, and a 14' X 8' summerhouse, plus
8' X 6' of decking...twice!

BTW which Sadolin did you use? There's a lot of different types, is
there not?

I see the Sadolin Quick Drying Exterior Woodstain is available for
£22.48 (inc VAT) on their site. Their Sadolin Classic Exterior
Woodstain is 2.50 litre £22.38 and the 5 litre size costs £41.78.
That might be the best bet, for me...

Anne,

It's a small one of 6' x 4' and this time I used Sadolin Exterior semi-gloss
with the shed being up now for some twelve years and painted 3 times in that
period - and I've only replaced four boards in that time (2 slightly rotten
and 2 damaged whilst removing the rotten ones).

Be aware also (if you don't already know), that if you have planed *AND*
sawn timber *AND* decking in those constructions, you will need a different
type of Sadolin for each one.


Brian G

Chris, what do you think to DG's idea of simply using "deck oil",
because it penetrates the wood well?

Eddy.

Anne Jackson wrote:
That's if we ever get two days together, without rain, of course!

Indeed, and if, like me, one intends to change the current
preservative-colour of an outhouse then one will need more than "two
days together without rain"! I have inherited a fine greenhouse the
wood of which is all a bright reddish colour. As the greenhouse is
visible from the road this makes it "stick out" horribly! So we have
started coating it with Forest Green preservative - actually a typical
and pleasant "olive green". The "trouble" is that because the bright
wood is sucking the preservative in and the current coat is such a
bright ochre-red it's taking three or four coats to truly hide all trace
of the former colour!

Eddy.

On Aug 6, 11:24 am, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I've been VERY diappointed with sadolin.

I've had good results with Sikkens which are made by the same company.

To get the claimed results the directions need to be followed /to the
letter/, also helps to read all their technical info as there is good
advice which can be applied to other coatings too.

cheers,
Pete.

Eddy Bentley wrote:
Anne Jackson wrote:
That's if we ever get two days together, without rain, of course!

Indeed, and if, like me, one intends to change the current
preservative-colour of an outhouse then one will need more than "two
days together without rain"! I have inherited a fine greenhouse the
wood of which is all a bright reddish colour. As the greenhouse is
visible from the road this makes it "stick out" horribly! So we have
started coating it with Forest Green preservative - actually a typical
and pleasant "olive green". The "trouble" is that because the bright
wood is sucking the preservative in and the current coat is such a
bright ochre-red it's taking three or four coats to truly hide all trace
of the former colour!

Eddy.


Such are the problems of extending the makeover philosophy to the
garden. We have a park near here with acres of decking in its natural
state, and I can't see it would be improved by prettifying it with
artificial colouring.

On 2007-08-06 11:24:51 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

I've been VERY diappointed with sadolin.



Which Sadolin product did you buy?

I've had good results by using the recommended procedure of a coat of
the basic low solid product first as a kind of primer, followed by a
coat of the product with lots of solids.

I used this on the window frames and exterior timbers of the house
about 7 years ago, and there is virtually no sign of fading or
deterioration even in south facing areas.

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-08-06 11:24:51 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

I've been VERY diappointed with sadolin.



Which Sadolin product did you buy?

I've had good results by using the recommended procedure of a coat of
the basic low solid product first as a kind of primer, followed by a
coat of the product with lots of solids.

I used this on the window frames and exterior timbers of the house about
7 years ago, and there is virtually no sign of fading or deterioration
even in south facing areas.


I used no primer: It was an outdoor stain thats all I know.

Today a mate put a coat of Dulux Weatherhield stain on..that actually
has a guarantee of 7 years on, and it looks great.

He reckons that after test, the council he normally decorates for, won;t
use anything else..so we are running with that now.

The Saolin has flaked and peeled and most of it has been sanded off.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-08-06 11:24:51 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

I've been VERY diappointed with sadolin.



Which Sadolin product did you buy?

I've had good results by using the recommended procedure of a coat of
the basic low solid product first as a kind of primer, followed by a
coat of the product with lots of solids.

I used this on the window frames and exterior timbers of the house
about 7 years ago, and there is virtually no sign of fading or
deterioration even in south facing areas.


I used no primer: It was an outdoor stain thats all I know.

Today a mate put a coat of Dulux Weatherhield stain on..that actually
has a guarantee of 7 years on, and it looks great.

He reckons that after test, the council he normally decorates for,
won;t use anything else..so we are running with that now.

The Saolin has flaked and peeled and most of it has been sanded off.

I must admit that I had been involved with Sadolin use over a very long
period of time on council house repairs and repainting, where the correct
preparation and applications specifications were followed (the b*****d C.o.W
saw to that) - and the minimum life of the finished job was well in excess
of five years.


Brian G

On 2007-08-10 19:05:59 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-08-06 11:24:51 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

I've been VERY diappointed with sadolin.



Which Sadolin product did you buy?

I've had good results by using the recommended procedure of a coat of
the basic low solid product first as a kind of primer, followed by a
coat of the product with lots of solids.

I used this on the window frames and exterior timbers of the house
about 7 years ago, and there is virtually no sign of fading or
deterioration even in south facing areas.


I used no primer: It was an outdoor stain thats all I know.

Today a mate put a coat of Dulux Weatherhield stain on..that actually
has a guarantee of 7 years on, and it looks great.

He reckons that after test, the council he normally decorates for,
won;t use anything else..so we are running with that now.

The Saolin has flaked and peeled and most of it has been sanded off.

I used Weathershield on a door. Many of these better products come as
a system with more than one item. For Weathershield it was a pale
blue primer, followed by an undercoat followed by top coat. That has
lasted 10 years with no noticable deterioration.

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-08-10 19:05:59 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-08-06 11:24:51 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

I've been VERY diappointed with sadolin.



Which Sadolin product did you buy?

I've had good results by using the recommended procedure of a coat of
the basic low solid product first as a kind of primer, followed by a
coat of the product with lots of solids.

I used this on the window frames and exterior timbers of the house
about 7 years ago, and there is virtually no sign of fading or
deterioration even in south facing areas.


I used no primer: It was an outdoor stain thats all I know.

Today a mate put a coat of Dulux Weatherhield stain on..that actually
has a guarantee of 7 years on, and it looks great.

He reckons that after test, the council he normally decorates for,
won;t use anything else..so we are running with that now.

The Saolin has flaked and peeled and most of it has been sanded off.

I used Weathershield on a door. Many of these better products come as a
system with more than one item. For Weathershield it was a pale blue
primer, followed by an undercoat followed by top coat. That has
lasted 10 years with no noticable deterioration.


That's fine for paint, but stain is a bit different. You want a
translucent tint, not 5 coats of UV protection.

On 2007-08-11 02:08:10 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-08-10 19:05:59 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-08-06 11:24:51 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

I've been VERY diappointed with sadolin.



Which Sadolin product did you buy?

I've had good results by using the recommended procedure of a coat of
the basic low solid product first as a kind of primer, followed by a
coat of the product with lots of solids.

I used this on the window frames and exterior timbers of the house
about 7 years ago, and there is virtually no sign of fading or
deterioration even in south facing areas.


I used no primer: It was an outdoor stain thats all I know.

Today a mate put a coat of Dulux Weatherhield stain on..that actually
has a guarantee of 7 years on, and it looks great.

He reckons that after test, the council he normally decorates for,
won;t use anything else..so we are running with that now.

The Saolin has flaked and peeled and most of it has been sanded off.

I used Weathershield on a door. Many of these better products come as
a system with more than one item. For Weathershield it was a pale
blue primer, followed by an undercoat followed by top coat. That has
lasted 10 years with no noticable deterioration.


That's fine for paint, but stain is a bit different. You want a
translucent tint, not 5 coats of UV protection.

Yes of course.

My point was really that for optimum results, Sadolin is also a system product.

You can use the basic low solid version ion its own or as the first
coat where the higher solid version is used as the second coat. If
you use the higher solid version alone, it doesn't give good results
but the manufacturer does say to use the basic product first.

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-08-11 02:08:10 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-08-10 19:05:59 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-08-06 11:24:51 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

I've been VERY diappointed with sadolin.



Which Sadolin product did you buy?

I've had good results by using the recommended procedure of a coat
of the basic low solid product first as a kind of primer, followed
by a coat of the product with lots of solids.

I used this on the window frames and exterior timbers of the house
about 7 years ago, and there is virtually no sign of fading or
deterioration even in south facing areas.


I used no primer: It was an outdoor stain thats all I know.

Today a mate put a coat of Dulux Weatherhield stain on..that
actually has a guarantee of 7 years on, and it looks great.

He reckons that after test, the council he normally decorates for,
won;t use anything else..so we are running with that now.

The Saolin has flaked and peeled and most of it has been sanded off.

I used Weathershield on a door. Many of these better products come
as a system with more than one item. For Weathershield it was a
pale blue primer, followed by an undercoat followed by top coat.
That has lasted 10 years with no noticable deterioration.


That's fine for paint, but stain is a bit different. You want a
translucent tint, not 5 coats of UV protection.

Yes of course.

My point was really that for optimum results, Sadolin is also a system
product.

You can use the basic low solid version ion its own or as the first coat
where the higher solid version is used as the second coat. If you use
the higher solid version alone, it doesn't give good results but the
manufacturer does say to use the basic product first.


Worth mentioning that these so called guarantees refer to the coating
itself, not its adhesion to a particular substrate. Most paint will last
forever on a sheet of glass because the surface doesn't degrade. This is
the line manufacturers tend to adopt if you ever have the temerity to
claim

On 2007-08-11 09:14:16 +0100, Huge said:

On 2007-08-10, Andy Hall wrote:

I used Weathershield on a door. Many of these better products come as
a system with more than one item. For Weathershield it was a pale
blue primer, followed by an undercoat followed by top coat. That has
lasted 10 years with no noticable deterioration.

I used the same system on the windows at the south-west facing back of
my house.
Despite taking three times as long to apply, it lasted the same length of time
that slapping on cheapo gloss from a shed did; 1 year.

I wonder why the variation in results.....


They'll all be uPVC in a couple of weeks time.

Ah....

On Aug 11, 11:40 am, Huge wrote:
I wonder why the variation in results.....

Dunno. I was very assiduous in applying it. Followed the instructions to the
letter, but it made no difference. Believe me, I'd rather do just about anything
than spend my weekends up a ladder painting windows. And as for whoever decided
to fit Georgian barred sashes, grrrrrr. (If that's what they're called - lots of
small panes of glass with wooden rails between. Awful things.)

Hi,

How did it fail? Did the paint peel from the wood or a previous coat?

Was it painted from bare wood, if so what primer was used?

cheers,
Pete.