HI Dave

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 14:59:30 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Adrian wrote:
It's also great fun to drive g

Yup. The steering feel of a Minor is quite superb. Something denied to a
Prius driver.

Kind of a 'direct' relationship with the road....
you get very adept at spotting / remembering the little imperfections
in the Irish country roads, and taking evasive action..

Bumps that you wouldn't even notice in my RAV4 become
quite 'noticeable' in the Moggie....

....hence the need for those d-ring luggage retainers to stop my
market stall & associated bits from joining me in the front seat...

On the subject of Moggies - anybody know why mine has a tendency
to 'run on' for a few seconds after the ignition has been switched
off? Somebody told me it was to do with the unleaded fuel - she's
originally a leaded engine that the Morris Minor Centre in Bristol
'unlead-ised' with the aid of a 'magic' thingy that fits in line with
the fuel - apparently they've been fitting them for 20 years..

Not a big worry - the 'running on' - fairly comical, actually...

Regards
Adrian

Adrian wrote:
On the subject of Moggies - anybody know why mine has a tendency
to 'run on' for a few seconds after the ignition has been switched
off? Somebody told me it was to do with the unleaded fuel - she's
originally a leaded engine that the Morris Minor Centre in Bristol
'unlead-ised' with the aid of a 'magic' thingy that fits in line with
the fuel - apparently they've been fitting them for 20 years..


I had a similar thing with my Metro which also used the A series engine.
I was told that it was 'Dieseling' and that this was caused by carbon
build up on the cylinder which heated up to the point where it would
ignite the compressed mixture without a spark (in the same way that a
Diesel engine works). So after turning off the ignition and depriving
the engine of a spark it would continue to ignite and hence 'run on' for
a short while.

There are however people on this group much more knowledgeable about
cars than me and I am sure they will be along in a moment.

Andrew

In article ,
Andrew May wrote:
I had a similar thing with my Metro which also used the A series engine.
I was told that it was 'Dieseling' and that this was caused by carbon
build up on the cylinder which heated up to the point where it would
ignite the compressed mixture without a spark (in the same way that a
Diesel engine works). So after turning off the ignition and depriving
the engine of a spark it would continue to ignite and hence 'run on' for
a short while.

It can be carbon, but the combustion chamber is sort of heart shaped and
the peak between the two valves can glow red hot causing the petrol to
ignite without a spark. Relieving this peak by grinding can help.

There are however people on this group much more knowledgeable about
cars than me and I am sure they will be along in a moment.

--
*Seen it all, done it all, can't remember most of it*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

HI Dave

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 17:14:51 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Andrew May wrote:
I had a similar thing with my Metro which also used the A series engine.
I was told that it was 'Dieseling' and that this was caused by carbon
build up on the cylinder which heated up to the point where it would
ignite the compressed mixture without a spark (in the same way that a
Diesel engine works). So after turning off the ignition and depriving
the engine of a spark it would continue to ignite and hence 'run on' for
a short while.

It can be carbon, but the combustion chamber is sort of heart shaped and
the peak between the two valves can glow red hot causing the petrol to
ignite without a spark. Relieving this peak by grinding can help.

Ah - thanks......
Adrian

HI Andrew

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 16:51:48 +0100, Andrew May
wrote:

Adrian wrote:
On the subject of Moggies - anybody know why mine has a tendency
to 'run on' for a few seconds after the ignition has been switched
off? Somebody told me it was to do with the unleaded fuel - she's
originally a leaded engine that the Morris Minor Centre in Bristol
'unlead-ised' with the aid of a 'magic' thingy that fits in line with
the fuel - apparently they've been fitting them for 20 years..


I had a similar thing with my Metro which also used the A series engine.
I was told that it was 'Dieseling' and that this was caused by carbon
build up on the cylinder which heated up to the point where it would
ignite the compressed mixture without a spark (in the same way that a
Diesel engine works). So after turning off the ignition and depriving
the engine of a spark it would continue to ignite and hence 'run on' for
a short while.


Ah - that rings a bell somewhere in the back of my mind.....

Thanks

Adrian

In article ,
Adrian wrote:
On the subject of Moggies - anybody know why mine has a tendency
to 'run on' for a few seconds after the ignition has been switched
off? Somebody told me it was to do with the unleaded fuel - she's
originally a leaded engine that the Morris Minor Centre in Bristol
'unlead-ised' with the aid of a 'magic' thingy that fits in line with
the fuel - apparently they've been fitting them for 20 years..

Oh dear. That 'magic thingy' does precisely nothing - lucky you didn't pay
for it.

Unless the exhaust valve seats have been modified to incorporate hardened
inserts you're in for problems sooner or later if running on unleaded only.
The A Series engine is one of the worst around for valve problems with
unleaded unless modified. But don't worry - it won't actually break down
totally so you can wait until it shows symptoms before doing anything. A
sensible choice would be to have a modified cylinder head standing by.

As regards the running on many fit an electrically operated valve
connected to the inlet manifold after the carb which opens and lets in air
when you switch off. But you should first check the ignition isn't
retarded and that the mixture isn't too weak - either can cause running on.

--
*If you think this van is dirty, you should try having sex with the driver*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

HI Dave

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 17:12:22 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Adrian wrote:
On the subject of Moggies - anybody know why mine has a tendency
to 'run on' for a few seconds after the ignition has been switched
off? Somebody told me it was to do with the unleaded fuel - she's
originally a leaded engine that the Morris Minor Centre in Bristol
'unlead-ised' with the aid of a 'magic' thingy that fits in line with
the fuel - apparently they've been fitting them for 20 years..

Oh dear. That 'magic thingy' does precisely nothing - lucky you didn't pay
for it.

OK - I did query it - but they seemed convinced (and they do know
their Moggies)

Unless the exhaust valve seats have been modified to incorporate hardened
inserts you're in for problems sooner or later if running on unleaded only.
The A Series engine is one of the worst around for valve problems with
unleaded unless modified. But don't worry - it won't actually break down
totally so you can wait until it shows symptoms before doing anything. A
sensible choice would be to have a modified cylinder head standing by.

OK - I'll put that on the 'shopping list' g


As regards the running on many fit an electrically operated valve
connected to the inlet manifold after the carb which opens and lets in air
when you switch off.

Ok - that's a thought....
doesn't really bother me, the running on, just curious....

But you should first check the ignition isn't
retarded and that the mixture isn't too weak - either can cause running on.

The car was set up by the MM Centre about 6 weeks ago - so will be due
for a service before too long. Will take the opportunity to check
timing & mixture then...

Thanks
Adrian

"Adrian" wrote in message
...

On the subject of Moggies - anybody know why mine has a tendency
to 'run on' for a few seconds after the ignition has been switched
off? Somebody told me it was to do with the unleaded fuel - she's
originally a leaded engine that the Morris Minor Centre in Bristol
'unlead-ised' with the aid of a 'magic' thingy that fits in line with
the fuel - apparently they've been fitting them for 20 years..

You can often cure the problem by reducing the idle speed, reduce it as much
as you can , but stop short of it staling on you all the time.

Ford had a real problem with this with their Kent (escort etc) engines years
ago. They provided a retrospective modification kit which was an
electrically powered air solenoid valve that was plumbed into the intake
manifold - switching off the ignition removed power from the solenoid and
air flowed into the manifold, the mixture was weakened and it didn't run on.

Julian.

HI Julian

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 17:20:11 GMT, "Julian" wrote:


"Adrian" wrote in message
.. .

On the subject of Moggies - anybody know why mine has a tendency
to 'run on' for a few seconds after the ignition has been switched
off? Somebody told me it was to do with the unleaded fuel - she's
originally a leaded engine that the Morris Minor Centre in Bristol
'unlead-ised' with the aid of a 'magic' thingy that fits in line with
the fuel - apparently they've been fitting them for 20 years..

You can often cure the problem by reducing the idle speed, reduce it as much
as you can , but stop short of it staling on you all the time.

OK - that would be an easy one to try....

Ford had a real problem with this with their Kent (escort etc) engines years
ago. They provided a retrospective modification kit which was an
electrically powered air solenoid valve that was plumbed into the intake
manifold - switching off the ignition removed power from the solenoid and
air flowed into the manifold, the mixture was weakened and it didn't run on.

Sounds complicated (in relation to the remainder of the vehicle !)

As I say - not a big deal - just a bit comical when people watch
'admiringly' as you arrive, and then look a bit confused as yu kill
the ignition and the beast coughs and splutters for a few seconds
before finally deciding that 'stop' is a good plan....

Regards
Adrian

In article ,
Adrian wrote:
Ford had a real problem with this with their Kent (escort etc) engines
years ago. They provided a retrospective modification kit which was an
electrically powered air solenoid valve that was plumbed into the
intake manifold - switching off the ignition removed power from the
solenoid and air flowed into the manifold, the mixture was weakened
and it didn't run on.

Sounds complicated (in relation to the remainder of the vehicle !)

It's actually pretty easy. The biggest problem may be providing a suitable
outlet in the inlet manifold if the car doesn't have a brake servo (many
Minors have had one added)
If it has you use a T piece and rubber tubing to the valve and then simply
wire it up to the ignition. It is closed with the ignition on, open when
off, so lets air in to stop the engine when you switch off.

--
*All those who believe in psychokinesis, raise my hand *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Adrian wrote:
Ford had a real problem with this with their Kent (escort etc) engines
years ago. They provided a retrospective modification kit which was an
electrically powered air solenoid valve that was plumbed into the
intake manifold - switching off the ignition removed power from the
solenoid and air flowed into the manifold, the mixture was weakened
and it didn't run on.

Sounds complicated (in relation to the remainder of the vehicle !)

It's actually pretty easy. The biggest problem may be providing a suitable
outlet in the inlet manifold if the car doesn't have a brake servo (many
Minors have had one added)
If it has you use a T piece and rubber tubing to the valve and then simply
wire it up to the ignition. It is closed with the ignition on, open when
off, so lets air in to stop the engine when you switch off.

If there's no easy way to plump into the inlet manifold then there is anther
method. (used by Chrysler on Carter carb equipped engines amongst others)
It's an electromagnetic solenoid acting on the throttle stop, it maintains a
high (normal) engine speed with the engine running and allows the throttle
to close to a low (curb idle) speed position with the ignition turned off.
having said that it's still prolly more trouble that it's worth to fit.

You could just switch the engine off with it in gear and simultaneously
switch off and raise the clutch pedal. (other foot on brake)

HI Julian

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 06:08:30 GMT, "Julian" wrote:


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Adrian wrote:
Ford had a real problem with this with their Kent (escort etc) engines
years ago. They provided a retrospective modification kit which was an
electrically powered air solenoid valve that was plumbed into the
intake manifold - switching off the ignition removed power from the
solenoid and air flowed into the manifold, the mixture was weakened
and it didn't run on.

Sounds complicated (in relation to the remainder of the vehicle !)

It's actually pretty easy. The biggest problem may be providing a suitable
outlet in the inlet manifold if the car doesn't have a brake servo (many
Minors have had one added)
If it has you use a T piece and rubber tubing to the valve and then simply
wire it up to the ignition. It is closed with the ignition on, open when
off, so lets air in to stop the engine when you switch off.

If there's no easy way to plump into the inlet manifold then there is anther
method. (used by Chrysler on Carter carb equipped engines amongst others)
It's an electromagnetic solenoid acting on the throttle stop, it maintains a
high (normal) engine speed with the engine running and allows the throttle
to close to a low (curb idle) speed position with the ignition turned off.
having said that it's still prolly more trouble that it's worth to fit.

Now we are starting to get complicated ! g

I've got an instinctive aversion to fitting 'things that stop an
engine and have to be energised to make it run normally'....
IANL I was involved in 'fail-safe' design...


You could just switch the engine off with it in gear and simultaneously
switch off and raise the clutch pedal. (other foot on brake)

I *could* - but it's a bit brutal g - don't think I've not thought
of it !

Many thanks
Adrian

HI Dave

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 00:01:04 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Adrian wrote:
Ford had a real problem with this with their Kent (escort etc) engines
years ago. They provided a retrospective modification kit which was an
electrically powered air solenoid valve that was plumbed into the
intake manifold - switching off the ignition removed power from the
solenoid and air flowed into the manifold, the mixture was weakened
and it didn't run on.

Sounds complicated (in relation to the remainder of the vehicle !)

It's actually pretty easy.

I meant 'philosophically' rather than 'practically'... g

The biggest problem may be providing a suitable
outlet in the inlet manifold if the car doesn't have a brake servo (many
Minors have had one added)

Not this one - she's still on the original 'no servo / drum brakes'
setup. Heavier than the servo'd RAV4 on the brakes - but perfectly
OK...

If it has you use a T piece and rubber tubing to the valve and then simply
wire it up to the ignition. It is closed with the ignition on, open when
off, so lets air in to stop the engine when you switch off.

Understood.
I did ask on the Morris Minor Owners' Club forum (they were equally
scathing about the 'magic catalyst' !) and the general consensus
seemed to be mixture or timing first, with a de-coke next...

Somebody suggested a quick blast up the motorway - sadly not an
option.
Don't know where I'd need to go to find a motorway - the nearest
traffic lights must be 30 miles away g.

Lots of the travelling is done at (relatively) slow speeds - and
there's a daily trip to the local village which must be all of 8 miles
round-trip (and it's downhill all the way there) - so maybe a longer
trip every so often might help to blow away the cobwebs...

Many thanks
Adrial

In article ,
Adrian wrote:
I did ask on the Morris Minor Owners' Club forum (they were equally
scathing about the 'magic catalyst' !) and the general consensus
seemed to be mixture or timing first, with a de-coke next...

Practical Classics did a test on these, using an A Series engine as
they're known as being more sensitive than most to valve problems with
unleaded due to the siamesed exhaust ports on cylinders 2&3 making the
valves run very hot. And started out with a new head therefore no lead
coating from previous leaded fuel. It very soon showed signs of valve seat
regression running purely on unleaded.

Carbonflow is one of the names these devices goes under and IIRC they've
been prosecuted under the advertising laws. But keep on popping up under
'new' ownership, etc.

There are petrol additives designed to replace the lead as a lubricant.
Some better than others. But a converted cylinder head is not that
expensive - and often come up on Ebay, etc. You could do a search on one,
store that search and get Ebay's computer to contact you when one comes up.

To convert the cylinder head means machining the valve seats and pressing
in hardened steel inserts. The valves are also replaced with harder steel
items. Later cars - like the Mini - had this conversion done at the
factory after leaded became the only petrol. I'd guess a cylinder head
from one could be made to fit, but may not be a totally satisfactory
conversion on its own.

If you do intend doing major works a good thing is to fit a 1275 engine
complete from an Ital or Marina.

--
*When the going gets tough, the tough take a coffee break *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
To convert the cylinder head means machining the valve seats and pressing
in hardened steel inserts. The valves are also replaced with harder steel
items.

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/unlead01.htm
--
Dave Baker
Resistance is useless (The Daleks)
Resistance is futile (The Borg)
Resistance is volts divided by amps (Georg Ohm)

HI Dave

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 09:38:41 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Adrian wrote:
I did ask on the Morris Minor Owners' Club forum (they were equally
scathing about the 'magic catalyst' !) and the general consensus
seemed to be mixture or timing first, with a de-coke next...

Practical Classics did a test on these, using an A Series engine as
they're known as being more sensitive than most to valve problems with
unleaded due to the siamesed exhaust ports on cylinders 2&3 making the
valves run very hot. And started out with a new head therefore no lead
coating from previous leaded fuel. It very soon showed signs of valve seat
regression running purely on unleaded.

Carbonflow is one of the names these devices goes under and IIRC they've
been prosecuted under the advertising laws. But keep on popping up under
'new' ownership, etc.

This one's called 'System 4' - and seems to be sold by one of the Mini
specialist parts suppliers also...


There are petrol additives designed to replace the lead as a lubricant.
Some better than others.

Any recommendations ? -
Might it be a useful precaution to use something like this ??

But a converted cylinder head is not that
expensive - and often come up on Ebay, etc. You could do a search on one,
store that search and get Ebay's computer to contact you when one comes up.

Yes - that's a possibility.
I do have a good friend who's a bit of a Moggie expert, I'm sure he
could locate and modify a head for me.


To convert the cylinder head means machining the valve seats and pressing
in hardened steel inserts. The valves are also replaced with harder steel
items. Later cars - like the Mini - had this conversion done at the
factory after leaded became the only petrol. I'd guess a cylinder head
from one could be made to fit, but may not be a totally satisfactory
conversion on its own.

If you do intend doing major works a good thing is to fit a 1275 engine
complete from an Ital or Marina.

It becomes one of those 'where do you stop' type of exercises, doesn't
it ?

Uprated engine, discs all round, brake servo, new gearbox......
and so it goes on.
Don't really want to start down that particular slippery slope ! g

Thanks for the comments
Adrian

"Adrian" wrote in message
...
HI Dave

I did ask on the Morris Minor Owners' Club forum (they were equally
scathing about the 'magic catalyst' !)

Yep, it's all horse **** and snake oil of the strongest kind. Tin pellets,
magnets, Brocket fuel catalysts etc etc - all designed to appeal to the hard
of thinking, and all totally worthless.

Go to the ASA website and click on adjudications (IIRC) you'll find what
they have to say about these products.

Julian.

HI Julian

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 09:59:48 GMT, "Julian" wrote:


"Adrian" wrote in message
.. .
HI Dave

I did ask on the Morris Minor Owners' Club forum (they were equally
scathing about the 'magic catalyst' !)

Yep, it's all horse **** and snake oil of the strongest kind. Tin pellets,
magnets, Brocket fuel catalysts etc etc - all designed to appeal to the hard
of thinking, and all totally worthless.

Interesting....
I wonder why the dealer would promote the fitting / use of these
devices - as I say, he's very well known and (presumably) has a good
reputation to preserve.

Ah well !

Thanks
Adrian

"Adrian" wrote in message
...
On the subject of Moggies - anybody know why mine has a tendency
to 'run on' for a few seconds after the ignition has been switched
off? Somebody told me it was to do with the unleaded fuel - she's
originally a leaded engine that the Morris Minor Centre in Bristol
'unlead-ised' with the aid of a 'magic' thingy that fits in line with
the fuel - apparently they've been fitting them for 20 years..

And ripping people off for 20 years then too.

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/unlead01.htm

http://www.fuelsaving.info/catalysts.htm

A complete con. Tin pellets in a black tube. Tin isn't soluble in petrol to
start with and even if it was it wouldn't do anything constructive. You're
running OK on unleaded because the valve seats are hardened from years of
use and the engine isn't in a high state of tune. The black tube is doing
feck all to help the situation. A series engines tend to run due to
combustion chamber heat which is why the A+ SU carbs had a fuel cut off
solenoid operated by the ignition switch.

Adrian wrote:
HI Dave

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 14:59:30 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Adrian wrote:
It's also great fun to drive g
Yup. The steering feel of a Minor is quite superb. Something denied to a
Prius driver.

Kind of a 'direct' relationship with the road....
you get very adept at spotting / remembering the little imperfections
in the Irish country roads, and taking evasive action..

Bumps that you wouldn't even notice in my RAV4 become
quite 'noticeable' in the Moggie....

...hence the need for those d-ring luggage retainers to stop my
market stall & associated bits from joining me in the front seat...

On the subject of Moggies - anybody know why mine has a tendency
to 'run on' for a few seconds after the ignition has been switched
off? Somebody told me it was to do with the unleaded fuel - she's
originally a leaded engine that the Morris Minor Centre in Bristol
'unlead-ised' with the aid of a 'magic' thingy that fits in line with
the fuel - apparently they've been fitting them for 20 years..

Not a big worry - the 'running on' - fairly comical, actually...


It's red hot exhaust valves, or carbon thereon.

You get a sort of glo-pug compression ignition.

Probly needs a decoke and a shade of ignition advance..that keeps the
valves cooler. Set the gap correctly, and then loosen the distrubutoir
and rotate while idling until it start to slow down, then set it as far
advanced as possible without slowing..a shade of over-rich also helps
keep the valves cool.




Regards
Adrian

HI

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 00:23:41 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

Adrian wrote:
HI Dave

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 14:59:30 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Adrian wrote:
It's also great fun to drive g
Yup. The steering feel of a Minor is quite superb. Something denied to a
Prius driver.

Kind of a 'direct' relationship with the road....
you get very adept at spotting / remembering the little imperfections
in the Irish country roads, and taking evasive action..

Bumps that you wouldn't even notice in my RAV4 become
quite 'noticeable' in the Moggie....

...hence the need for those d-ring luggage retainers to stop my
market stall & associated bits from joining me in the front seat...

On the subject of Moggies - anybody know why mine has a tendency
to 'run on' for a few seconds after the ignition has been switched
off? Somebody told me it was to do with the unleaded fuel - she's
originally a leaded engine that the Morris Minor Centre in Bristol
'unlead-ised' with the aid of a 'magic' thingy that fits in line with
the fuel - apparently they've been fitting them for 20 years..

Not a big worry - the 'running on' - fairly comical, actually...


It's red hot exhaust valves, or carbon thereon.

You get a sort of glo-pug compression ignition.

OK - understood


Probly needs a decoke and a shade of ignition advance..that keeps the
valves cooler. Set the gap correctly, and then loosen the distrubutoir
and rotate while idling until it start to slow down, then set it as far
advanced as possible without slowing..a shade of over-rich also helps
keep the valves cool.


Grand - thanks !
If it wasn't such a foul day (we had the dry spell overnight !) I'd
have a quick look at it today....

They're promising better weather for the weekend

Regards
Adrian

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

Probly needs a decoke and a shade of ignition advance..that keeps the
valves cooler. Set the gap correctly, and then loosen the distrubutoir and
rotate while idling until it start to slow down, then set it as far
advanced as possible without slowing..a shade of over-rich also helps keep
the valves cool.

Running rich helps the petrochemical smog too.
They all need scraping or at least banning from urban areas along with other
heavy polluters (not CO2) like buses.

"dennis@home" wrote in message
...

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

Probly needs a decoke and a shade of ignition advance..that keeps the
valves cooler. Set the gap correctly, and then loosen the distrubutoir
and rotate while idling until it start to slow down, then set it as far
advanced as possible without slowing..a shade of over-rich also helps
keep the valves cool.

Running rich helps the petrochemical smog too.
They all need scraping or at least banning from urban areas along with
other heavy polluters (not CO2) like buses.

Most buses can be hybrids, which is an ideal setup for their usage with
brake regen, etc. In the 1950s the Germans used flywheels in some buses to
clawback kinetic energy. Or buses can be just electric, which some are.

Yep, older engines pollute like crazy. The secret is eliminating the piston
internal combustion engine. It can only ever be dogs ear, no matter what
they do to it.

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Most buses can be hybrids, which is an ideal setup for their usage with
brake regen, etc. In the 1950s the Germans used flywheels in some buses
to clawback kinetic energy. Or buses can be just electric, which some
are.

Yep, older engines pollute like crazy. The secret is eliminating the
piston internal combustion engine. It can only ever be dogs ear, no
matter what they do to it.

That will be why the Prius doesn't have a internal combustion engine?

--
*Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Most buses can be hybrids, which is an ideal setup for their usage with
brake regen, etc. In the 1950s the Germans used flywheels in some buses
to clawback kinetic energy. Or buses can be just electric, which some
are.

Yep, older engines pollute like crazy. The secret is eliminating the
piston internal combustion engine. It can only ever be dogs ear, no
matter what they do to it.

That

Please eff off as you are a worthless idiot troll.

On 2007-07-05 08:48:11 +0100, "dennis@home"
said:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

Probly needs a decoke and a shade of ignition advance..that keeps the
valves cooler. Set the gap correctly, and then loosen the distrubutoir and
rotate while idling until it start to slow down, then set it as far
advanced as possible without slowing..a shade of over-rich also helps keep
the valves cool.

Running rich helps the petrochemical smog too.
They all need scraping or at least banning from urban areas along with other
heavy polluters (not CO2) like buses.

I think that buses should be banned, period.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-07-05 08:48:11 +0100, "dennis@home"
said:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

Probly needs a decoke and a shade of ignition advance..that keeps the
valves cooler. Set the gap correctly, and then loosen the distrubutoir
and
rotate while idling until it start to slow down, then set it as far
advanced as possible without slowing..a shade of over-rich also helps
keep
the valves cool.

Running rich helps the petrochemical smog too.
They all need scraping or at least banning from urban areas along with
other
heavy polluters (not CO2) like buses.

I think that buses should be banned, period.

How about banning roads and working class as well.

On 2007-07-05 09:30:19 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message ...
On 2007-07-05 08:48:11 +0100, "dennis@home"
said:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

Probly needs a decoke and a shade of ignition advance..that keeps the
valves cooler. Set the gap correctly, and then loosen the distrubutoir and
rotate while idling until it start to slow down, then set it as far
advanced as possible without slowing..a shade of over-rich also helps keep
the valves cool.

Running rich helps the petrochemical smog too.
They all need scraping or at least banning from urban areas along with other
heavy polluters (not CO2) like buses.

I think that buses should be banned, period.

How about banning roads and working class as well.

Converting railways into roads would make good sense, especially into
major towns and cities. There's no such thing as the working class.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-07-05 09:30:19 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-07-05 08:48:11 +0100, "dennis@home"
said:


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

Probly needs a decoke and a shade of ignition advance..that keeps the
valves cooler. Set the gap correctly, and then loosen the distrubutoir
and
rotate while idling until it start to slow down, then set it as far
advanced as possible without slowing..a shade of over-rich also helps
keep
the valves cool.

Running rich helps the petrochemical smog too.
They all need scraping or at least banning from urban areas along with
other
heavy polluters (not CO2) like buses.

I think that buses should be banned, period.

How about banning roads and working class as well.

Converting railways into roads would make good sense, especially into
major towns and cities.

I suppose the working class could build them and get them out of cars.
Disgusting indeed, all these council house dwellers in cars.

There's no such thing as the working class.

Been down the local sink estate? Not many of them go to Eton.

In article ,
Andy Hall wrote:
Converting railways into roads would make good sense, especially into
major towns and cities.

Most railways are far too narrow to 'convert' into roads - the cost would
be horrendous. Would make decent cycle tracks, but I doubt that would
appeal to you. ;-)

--
*The fact that no one understands you doesn't mean you're an artist

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

The message
from Andy Hall contains these words:

There's no such thing as the working class.

There is, but only in the sense of the sector of the population that
work for a living or have worked and now subsists on a pension. Below
them are the shirking classes. On the one hand those who get by largely
on benefits on on the other those who get by on inherited wealth. :-)

--
Roger Chapman