Hi

What varnish should I use for (treated softwood) wood that stays wet
more or less all day? The first stuff I tried failed very quickly

Thanks.

On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 14:51:35 -0700, wrote:

What varnish should I use for (treated softwood) wood that stays wet
more or less all day? The first stuff I tried failed very quickly

Use the right timber species.

The right timber doesn't need to be treated. Treated timbers won't be
the right species, QED.

Varnish won't make a blind bit of difference.

If it really is continuously wet, that's a let better than alternating
wet and dry.

On 15 Jun, 23:20, Andy Dingley wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 14:51:35 -0700, wrote:

What varnish should I use for (treated softwood) wood that stays wet
more or less all day? The first stuff I tried failed very quickly

Use the right timber species.

there wasnt enough time, so its treated softwood


The right timber doesn't need to be treated. Treated timbers won't be
the right species, QED.

Varnish won't make a blind bit of difference.

It does to the apearance, very much so.


If it really is continuously wet, that's a let better than alternating
wet and dry.

if only...


NT

wrote:
Hi

What varnish should I use for (treated softwood) wood that stays wet
more or less all day? The first stuff I tried failed very quickly

Thanks.

The 'standard' approach for modern wooden boats is a couple of coats of
epoxy (either West or SP Systems):

http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/Produ...f-02868e1b48f5

I'd go for the SP Systems because it comes with the dispenser pumps that
makes life a lot easier.

Followed by a few coats of International two pack polyurethane varnish:

http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/Produ...f-02868e1b48f5

If you do go down this route, make sure you have LOTS of ventilation and
the room is well sealed off from the rest of the house. The varnish in
particular is very unpleasant stuff.

Cheers

Chris

--
Cut along the dotted line to reply

On 16 Jun, 08:50, Chris -
online.co.uk wrote:
wrote:

Hi

What varnish should I use for (treated softwood) wood that stays wet
more or less all day? The first stuff I tried failed very quickly

Thanks.

The 'standard' approach for modern wooden boats is a couple of coats of
epoxy (either West or SP Systems):

http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/Produ...ctID/102373/gr...

I'd go for the SP Systems because it comes with the dispenser pumps that
makes life a lot easier.

Followed by a few coats of International two pack polyurethane varnish:

http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/Produ...ctID/102294/gr...

If you do go down this route, make sure you have LOTS of ventilation and
the room is well sealed off from the rest of the house. The varnish in
particular is very unpleasant stuff.

Cheers

Chris

b-gger, that would really be a problem. Thanks!

NT

On Jun 15, 10:51 pm, wrote:
Hi

What varnish should I use for (treated softwood) wood that stays wet
more or less all day? The first stuff I tried failed very quickly

Thanks.

Hi,

Where did the varnish fail, along edges, round knots or all over?

Is the wood exposed to sun, or temperature cycling?

How many coats on the wood were there, and was it coated 100% all over
including any hidden faces?

It sounds like you've varnished some planed tanalised timber, for use
in a shower or bathroom.

cheers,
Pete.

On Jun 15, 10:51 pm, wrote:
Hi

What varnish should I use for (treated softwood) wood that stays wet
more or less all day? The first stuff I tried failed very quickly

Get a tin of Cuprinol or something similar. You can get water based
stuff but oil based is superior. But that will mean you need a run of
nice weather which means holding off until 9th July.

You might get away with varnish then too, especially if the first week
is also dry.

On 16 Jun, 10:35, Pete C wrote:
On Jun 15, 10:51 pm, wrote:


Hi

What varnish should I use for (treated softwood) wood that stays wet
more or less all day? The first stuff I tried failed very quickly

Thanks.

Hi,

Where did the varnish fail, along edges, round knots or all over?

Is the wood exposed to sun, or temperature cycling?

How many coats on the wood were there, and was it coated 100% all over
including any hidden faces?

It sounds like you've varnished some planed tanalised timber, for use
in a shower or bathroom.

cheers,
Pete.

Its under cover, no sun, no big temp cycles, but gets soaked daily.
The first varnish just turned white and came off all over where it
gets wet. It was only coated on top, but the stuff came off after a
day or 2, it just isnt water tolerant at all.

Its treated softwood, but not tanalised.

The main reason for varnishing is to keep it looking decent. Just need
a varnish that will hold up to near constant wetness.


NT

On Jun 17, 7:19 pm, wrote:
Its under cover, no sun, no big temp cycles, but gets soaked daily.
The first varnish just turned white and came off all over where it
gets wet. It was only coated on top, but the stuff came off after a
day or 2, it just isnt water tolerant at all.

Its treated softwood, but not tanalised.

The main reason for varnishing is to keep it looking decent. Just need
a varnish that will hold up to near constant wetness.

NT

I see. Normal varnish won't stay on wood if it gets wet underneath the
varnish. Epoxy would be more forgiving, but a a good solvent based
woodstain like Sikkens etc in a light shade would be ideal, it's
microporous so would allow the wood to dry out when it can.

I'd give wood stain on exposed faces a go first, easy to put on and
can be sanded off if need be.

cheers,
Pete.

On 17 Jun, 23:18, Pete C wrote:
On Jun 17, 7:19 pm, wrote:

Its under cover, no sun, no big temp cycles, but gets soaked daily.
The first varnish just turned white and came off all over where it
gets wet. It was only coated on top, but the stuff came off after a
day or 2, it just isnt water tolerant at all.

Its treated softwood, but not tanalised.

The main reason for varnishing is to keep it looking decent. Just need
a varnish that will hold up to near constant wetness.

NT

I see. Normal varnish won't stay on wood if it gets wet underneath the
varnish. Epoxy would be more forgiving, but a a good solvent based
woodstain like Sikkens etc in a light shade would be ideal, it's
microporous so would allow the wood to dry out when it can.

I'd give wood stain on exposed faces a go first, easy to put on and
can be sanded off if need be.

cheers,
Pete.

yabbut I dont want it darker...

whine, moan


NT

On 18 Jun, 00:06, wrote:
On 17 Jun, 23:18, Pete C wrote:





On Jun 17, 7:19 pm, wrote:

Its under cover, no sun, no big temp cycles, but gets soaked daily.
The first varnish just turned white and came off all over where it
gets wet. It was only coated on top, but the stuff came off after a
day or 2, it just isnt water tolerant at all.

Its treated softwood, but not tanalised.

The main reason for varnishing is to keep it looking decent. Just need
a varnish that will hold up to near constant wetness.

NT

I see. Normal varnish won't stay on wood if it gets wet underneath the
varnish. Epoxy would be more forgiving, but a a good solvent based
woodstain like Sikkens etc in a light shade would be ideal, it's
microporous so would allow the wood to dry out when it can.

I'd give wood stain on exposed faces a go first, easy to put on and
can be sanded off if need be.

cheers,
Pete.

yabbut I dont want it darker...

whine, moan

NT- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Dear Meow2
In such an environment, it would have been better to have used
Tanalised timber - a water-borne process that provides a chemical
combination with the wood (the hydroxl groups) and which cannot leach
out under water cyles. Too late for that now? So you are stuck with
what appears to be Aquavac or Double vac treated softwood which will
most likely be Scots Pine. (aka deal, redwood etc)- the only suitable
commonly available softwood that has the porosity to accept the
treatment process for D/vac.
I agree with the post suggesting Sikkens and the like. It is a no-
brainer and the right answer. If you want to retain the look use the
lightest type you can that is the least opaque. Make sure there are
no sharp arrises. Round them off if you have to. Get it as dry as
possible before applying. Be prepared to repaint every 18 months.
Chris