On 18 Jun, 00:06, wrote:
On 17 Jun, 23:18, Pete C wrote:





On Jun 17, 7:19 pm, wrote:

Its under cover, no sun, no big temp cycles, but gets soaked daily.
The first varnish just turned white and came off all over where it
gets wet. It was only coated on top, but the stuff came off after a
day or 2, it just isnt water tolerant at all.

Its treated softwood, but not tanalised.

The main reason for varnishing is to keep it looking decent. Just need
a varnish that will hold up to near constant wetness.

NT

I see. Normal varnish won't stay on wood if it gets wet underneath the
varnish. Epoxy would be more forgiving, but a a good solvent based
woodstain like Sikkens etc in a light shade would be ideal, it's
microporous so would allow the wood to dry out when it can.

I'd give wood stain on exposed faces a go first, easy to put on and
can be sanded off if need be.

cheers,
Pete.

yabbut I dont want it darker...

whine, moan

NT- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Dear Meow2
In such an environment, it would have been better to have used
Tanalised timber - a water-borne process that provides a chemical
combination with the wood (the hydroxl groups) and which cannot leach
out under water cyles. Too late for that now? So you are stuck with
what appears to be Aquavac or Double vac treated softwood which will
most likely be Scots Pine. (aka deal, redwood etc)- the only suitable
commonly available softwood that has the porosity to accept the
treatment process for D/vac.
I agree with the post suggesting Sikkens and the like. It is a no-
brainer and the right answer. If you want to retain the look use the
lightest type you can that is the least opaque. Make sure there are
no sharp arrises. Round them off if you have to. Get it as dry as
possible before applying. Be prepared to repaint every 18 months.
Chris