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Default lights go dim when kettle switches on

We recently moved to a new house (built in the 40's with an annexe added
in the 80s). The lights go dim when anything with high current drain
like a kettle or electric shower is turned on. This works for all
different combinations of ceiling lights and lights plugged into sockets
in the house and the annexe, and happens when any high-current appliance
is switched on in the house or the annexe (which are on different
fuseboxes). This would suggest to me that the voltage is dropping at the
point where the mains enters the house, and therefore that the cable
coming up from the road is under rated. Does this sound like a
reasonable conclusion, and is it something we should worry about?
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On 3 Jun, 19:35, Ben wrote:

We recently moved to a new house (built in the 40's with an annexe added
in the 80s). The lights go dim when anything with high current drain
like a kettle or electric shower is turned on. This works for all
different combinations of ceiling lights and lights plugged into sockets
in the house and the annexe, and happens when any high-current appliance
is switched on in the house or the annexe (which are on different
fuseboxes). This would suggest to me that the voltage is dropping at the
point where the mains enters the house, and therefore that the cable
coming up from the road is under rated. Does this sound like a
reasonable conclusion, and is it something we should worry about?


If the dimming is significant, as appears to be from what you say,
then youre looking at an immediate fire risk.


NT

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Default lights go dim when kettle switches on

On 4 Jun, 08:26, The Wanderer wrote:
On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 12:14:37 -0700, wrote:


If the dimming is significant, as appears to be from what you say,
then youre looking at an immediate fire risk.


How do you come to that conclusion?


through being tired I think!

NT



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Default lights go dim when kettle switches on

Ben wrote:

We recently moved to a new house (built in the 40's with an annexe added
in the 80s). The lights go dim when anything with high current drain
like a kettle or electric shower is turned on. This works for all
different combinations of ceiling lights and lights plugged into sockets
in the house and the annexe, and happens when any high-current appliance
is switched on in the house or the annexe (which are on different
fuseboxes). This would suggest to me that the voltage is dropping at the
point where the mains enters the house, and therefore that the cable
coming up from the road is under rated. Does this sound like a
reasonable conclusion, and is it something we should worry about?


This is difficult to quantify without numbers. Some dimming is to be
expected, but it depends on how much you are getting.

If you connect a voltmeter to the system and take a reading what do you
get? What does it change to when you add say a 3kW load from the kettle?

Try and place the voltmeter on a different circuit to the one you are
running the test load on. That way you should have your results
influenced less by the resistance of the houses wiring.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
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Default lights go dim when kettle switches on

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Ben wrote:

We recently moved to a new house (built in the 40's with an annexe added
in the 80s). The lights go dim when anything with high current drain like
a kettle or electric shower is turned on. This works for all different
combinations of ceiling lights and lights plugged into sockets in the
house and the annexe, and happens when any high-current appliance is
switched on in the house or the annexe (which are on different
fuseboxes). This would suggest to me that the voltage is dropping at the
point where the mains enters the house, and therefore that the cable
coming up from the road is under rated. Does this sound like a reasonable
conclusion, and is it something we should worry about?


This is difficult to quantify without numbers. Some dimming is to be
expected, but it depends on how much you are getting.

If you connect a voltmeter to the system and take a reading what do you
get? What does it change to when you add say a 3kW load from the kettle?

Try and place the voltmeter on a different circuit to the one you are
running the test load on. That way you should have your results influenced
less by the resistance of the houses wiring.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/


Don't mess about with this, phone your electricity supplier and ask for an
emergency call as you may have a fault with the cutout or meter. If they
can't find anything wrong then ask for a recording voltmeter to be fitted.


--
Regards

Stephen Dawson
Fox Electrical Services Ltd
www.foxelectrical.co.uk


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Default lights go dim when kettle switches on

On 3 Jun, 21:26, "Stephen Dawson" wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message

...



Ben wrote:


We recently moved to a new house (built in the 40's with an annexe added
in the 80s). The lights go dim when anything with high current drain like
a kettle or electric shower is turned on. This works for all different
combinations of ceiling lights and lights plugged into sockets in the
house and the annexe, and happens when any high-current appliance is
switched on in the house or the annexe (which are on different
fuseboxes). This would suggest to me that the voltage is dropping at the
point where the mains enters the house, and therefore that the cable
coming up from the road is under rated. Does this sound like a reasonable
conclusion, and is it something we should worry about?


This is difficult to quantify without numbers. Some dimming is to be
expected, but it depends on how much you are getting.


If you connect a voltmeter to the system and take a reading what do you
get? What does it change to when you add say a 3kW load from the kettle?


Try and place the voltmeter on a different circuit to the one you are
running the test load on. That way you should have your results influenced
less by the resistance of the houses wiring.


--
Cheers,


John.


/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/


Don't mess about with this, phone your electricity supplier and ask for an
emergency call as you may have a fault with the cutout or meter. If they
can't find anything wrong then ask for a recording voltmeter to be fitted.


what needs the most urgent checking is the wiring within the house,
and a recording meter at the incomer will only check a small fraction
of that.

But really, if the dimming is significant, then theres no need for a
voltmeter, the problem is serious.


NT

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wrote:
On 3 Jun, 21:26, "Stephen Dawson" wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message

...



Ben wrote:
We recently moved to a new house (built in the 40's with an annexe added
in the 80s). The lights go dim when anything with high current drain like
a kettle or electric shower is turned on. This works for all different
combinations of ceiling lights and lights plugged into sockets in the
house and the annexe, and happens when any high-current appliance is
switched on in the house or the annexe (which are on different
fuseboxes). This would suggest to me that the voltage is dropping at the
point where the mains enters the house, and therefore that the cable
coming up from the road is under rated. Does this sound like a reasonable
conclusion, and is it something we should worry about?
This is difficult to quantify without numbers. Some dimming is to be
expected, but it depends on how much you are getting.
If you connect a voltmeter to the system and take a reading what do you
get? What does it change to when you add say a 3kW load from the kettle?
Try and place the voltmeter on a different circuit to the one you are
running the test load on. That way you should have your results influenced
less by the resistance of the houses wiring.
--
Cheers,
John.
/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd -
http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Don't mess about with this, phone your electricity supplier and ask for an
emergency call as you may have a fault with the cutout or meter. If they
can't find anything wrong then ask for a recording voltmeter to be fitted.


what needs the most urgent checking is the wiring within the house,
and a recording meter at the incomer will only check a small fraction
of that.


Absolute crap. Its patently obvious from his post that the issue lies
outside the house.

It happens on every combination of devices on all circuits.

Its almost certainly either the incoming wires from the local
substation, or, if its a personal transformer on a pole as mine was, that.


But really, if the dimming is significant, then theres no need for a
voltmeter, the problem is serious.


NT

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wrote in message
oups.com...
On 3 Jun, 21:26, "Stephen Dawson" wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message

...



Ben wrote:


We recently moved to a new house (built in the 40's with an annexe
added
in the 80s). The lights go dim when anything with high current drain
like
a kettle or electric shower is turned on. This works for all different
combinations of ceiling lights and lights plugged into sockets in the
house and the annexe, and happens when any high-current appliance is
switched on in the house or the annexe (which are on different
fuseboxes). This would suggest to me that the voltage is dropping at
the
point where the mains enters the house, and therefore that the cable
coming up from the road is under rated. Does this sound like a
reasonable
conclusion, and is it something we should worry about?


This is difficult to quantify without numbers. Some dimming is to be
expected, but it depends on how much you are getting.


If you connect a voltmeter to the system and take a reading what do you
get? What does it change to when you add say a 3kW load from the
kettle?


Try and place the voltmeter on a different circuit to the one you are
running the test load on. That way you should have your results
influenced
less by the resistance of the houses wiring.


--
Cheers,


John.


/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/


Don't mess about with this, phone your electricity supplier and ask for
an
emergency call as you may have a fault with the cutout or meter. If they
can't find anything wrong then ask for a recording voltmeter to be
fitted.


what needs the most urgent checking is the wiring within the house,
and a recording meter at the incomer will only check a small fraction
of that.

But really, if the dimming is significant, then theres no need for a
voltmeter, the problem is serious.


NT


NT,

Stand back from this and leave it to those that have the experience in this
field, i.e. me. (10 years investigating voltage compliants for an REC, then
10 years running my own electrical firm.)

--
Regards

Stephen Dawson
Fox Electrical Services Ltd
www.foxelectrical.co.uk


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On 4 Jun, 19:58, "Stephen Dawson" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...

NT,

Stand back from this and leave it to those that have the experience in this
field, i.e. me. (10 years investigating voltage compliants for an REC, then
10 years running my own electrical firm.)


I can understand pointing out that I was half asleep at the time, but
these kind of comments seem a little off beam.


NT

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On Mon, 04 Jun 2007 18:58:04 GMT, "Stephen Dawson"
wrote:


Stand back from this and leave it to those that have the experience in this
field, i.e. me.


How can "those" be "me"?

"i.e." means "that is" - perhaps you mean "e.g." meaning "for
example"...

Anyway, why "Stand back from this"? Did you gain your experience by
standing back?

;-)
--
Frank Erskine
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Default lights go dim when kettle switches on

In article , Ben
writes
We recently moved to a new house (built in the 40's with an annexe added
in the 80s). The lights go dim when anything with high current drain
like a kettle or electric shower is turned on. This works for all
different combinations of ceiling lights and lights plugged into sockets
in the house and the annexe, and happens when any high-current appliance
is switched on in the house or the annexe (which are on different
fuseboxes). This would suggest to me that the voltage is dropping at the
point where the mains enters the house, and therefore that the cable
coming up from the road is under rated. Does this sound like a
reasonable conclusion, and is it something we should worry about?


I'd expect "some" dimming when the shower is on as they take silly
amounts of current, the kettle less so. It seems as if the voltage drop
across the cables is too great but that can be checked with a voltmeter
to see if its excessive or not. It could be possible that there is a
high resistance joint somewhere thats causing the voltage drop and that
can be a fire risk if it gets too hot!..

As you say it does seem that the problem might be on the supply side
can't remember of the top of my head but its something like plus 6 % and
minus 10% of 230 volts to be within tolerance.

Are you on an overhead or underground supply?..

Best bet is to have a competent electrician check it out......
--
Tony Sayer

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Default lights go dim when kettle switches on

The harmonised EU nominal supply voltage is 230V +10% -6%.


If lights merely dim *briefly* under heavy load *switching on*,
this is not uncommon with high loads (13A, 40-50A shower).
It more commonly noticed with large welding equipment.

If lights dim *continually* under heavy load *operation*,
that indicates a **serious** defect requiring investigation.

Cause may be house-side (high resistance CU busbars
due to bad connections, oxidised, corroded) or utility-side
(high resistance meter/service-head/overhead connections).
Overheating service heads do cause uncontainable fires.
--
JS-B.



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tony sayer wrote:
Are you on an overhead or underground supply?..


It appears to be overhead as far as the bottom of the driveway and then
underground up the front garden.
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On Mon, 04 Jun 2007 18:13:00 +0100, Ben wrote:

|!tony sayer wrote:
|! Are you on an overhead or underground supply?..
|!
|!It appears to be overhead as far as the bottom of the driveway and then
|!underground up the front garden.

Have you complained to whoever looks after the distribution of electricity
in your area? **Not** who you pay, they are different. Being overhead
there may be a problem with the supply to the house.
--
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Ben wrote:
tony sayer wrote:
Are you on an overhead or underground supply?..


It appears to be overhead as far as the bottom of the driveway and then
underground up the front garden.


any sign of a pole mounted transformer?

Or is it two thick wires up that pole?


In either case, contact supply company.
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The Natural Philosopher wrote:
any sign of a pole mounted transformer?

Or is it two thick wires up that pole?


Its two thick wires, all the way up the road from the village.
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Ben wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
any sign of a pole mounted transformer?

Or is it two thick wires up that pole?


Its two thick wires, all the way up the road from the village.


Mm. Need to have THICKER ones then ;-)


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"Ben" wrote in message
...
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
any sign of a pole mounted transformer?

Or is it two thick wires up that pole?


Its two thick wires, all the way up the road from the village.


Can't you move the village closer?

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On Mon, 04 Jun 2007 20:42:08 +0100, Ben wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
any sign of a pole mounted transformer?

Or is it two thick wires up that pole?


Its two thick wires, all the way up the road from the village.


Ben, you've had two or three people who either work in or used to work in
the supply industry tell you to contact your local distribution company,
because in their opinion it's a problem with the distribution network.

You've also had quite a few others who all have their own pet theories
coming up with all sorts of red herrings.

I know what I'd already have done.

--
the dot wanderer at tesco dot net
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In article , Ben
writes
tony sayer wrote:
Are you on an overhead or underground supply?..


It appears to be overhead as far as the bottom of the driveway and then
underground up the front garden.


Always seems that overhead has less capacity then what underground does.

Theres a place near here that has Five subs off the same piddly little
transformer and the furthest one on the line is some 500 odd yards!..

But he isn't bothered .. as he'd be using candles if he had his way;!..
--
Tony Sayer

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On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 19:35:42 +0100, Ben wrote:

We recently moved to a new house (built in the 40's with an annexe added
in the 80s). The lights go dim when anything with high current drain
like a kettle or electric shower is turned on. This works for all
different combinations of ceiling lights and lights plugged into sockets
in the house and the annexe, and happens when any high-current appliance
is switched on in the house or the annexe (which are on different
fuseboxes). This would suggest to me that the voltage is dropping at the
point where the mains enters the house, and therefore that the cable
coming up from the road is under rated. Does this sound like a
reasonable conclusion, and is it something we should worry about?


If the dimming is such that you could say whether he kettle is on or not
just by looking at the lights then there is a big problem.
There is a high resistance on the incomer, meter connections, main switch,
or main switch connections.

Measure the line neutral voltage if there is a drop of more than 10V when
the kettle is used then there is a potential problem.




--
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The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards
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Ben wrote:
We recently moved to a new house (built in the 40's with an annexe added
in the 80s). The lights go dim when anything with high current drain
like a kettle or electric shower is turned on. This works for all
different combinations of ceiling lights and lights plugged into sockets
in the house and the annexe, and happens when any high-current appliance
is switched on in the house or the annexe (which are on different
fuseboxes). This would suggest to me that the voltage is dropping at the
point where the mains enters the house, and therefore that the cable
coming up from the road is under rated. Does this sound like a
reasonable conclusion, and is it something we should worry about?

In my case it was not e cable: It was the trasformer up a pole..that was
the size of a small Tv set.

I now have my very own substation, the size of a dog kennel for a
reasonably large dog.

Which appears to have left its genitalia inside, or at least the whole
installtion is now the dogs knackers.


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On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 19:35:42 +0100, Ben wrote:

We recently moved to a new house (built in the 40's with an annexe added
in the 80s). The lights go dim when anything with high current drain
like a kettle or electric shower is turned on. This works for all
different combinations of ceiling lights and lights plugged into sockets
in the house and the annexe, and happens when any high-current appliance
is switched on in the house or the annexe (which are on different
fuseboxes). This would suggest to me that the voltage is dropping at the
point where the mains enters the house, and therefore that the cable
coming up from the road is under rated. Does this sound like a
reasonable conclusion, and is it something we should worry about?


You need to satisfy yourself that everything is OK around the meter
position for a first off. If you get someone to switch on the shower -
that'll take the most - and just have a listen and a sniff around the meter
position and the consumer units, that should tell you pretty quickly if you
have a loose connection somewhere abouts. You'll get some arcing and/or
buzzing.

Are you in a rural or urban location? Sounds very much like a problem with
the distribution network that supplies your property. This can quite often
be a real problem in rural areas, where distribution networks can be like
wet string, particularly where there hasn't been much development for a few
years.

Contact the local distribution company - they may not neccesarily be the
company who sell you your electricity - and tell them you have a problem
with the lights dipping whenever you put any load on. Probably be a two
stage thing, first they'll get a linesman out to check connections on the
system (presuming it's overhead) then if they don't find anything, they'll
probabaly instal a recording voltmeter for a few days, which will quantify
the problem.

Be warned, however, post privatisation, they'll probably try to make you
pay for any improvements they have to make to their system. In general
terms you shouldn't, but come back for more advice if they try it on.

--
the dot wanderer at tesco dot net
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The Wanderer wrote:
Are you in a rural or urban location? Sounds very much like a problem with
the distribution network that supplies your property. This can quite often
be a real problem in rural areas, where distribution networks can be like
wet string, particularly where there hasn't been much development for a few
years.


Its very much a rural area, and to answer a question from another post
the dimming is continuous until the heavy load is switched off. I'll
measure the voltage drop and if its excessive report it to the
distribution company (and report back here of course).
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On Mon, 04 Jun 2007 17:02:22 +0100, Ben wrote:

The Wanderer wrote:
Are you in a rural or urban location? Sounds very much like a problem with
the distribution network that supplies your property. This can quite often
be a real problem in rural areas, where distribution networks can be like
wet string, particularly where there hasn't been much development for a few
years.


Its very much a rural area, and to answer a question from another post
the dimming is continuous until the heavy load is switched off. I'll
measure the voltage drop and if its excessive report it to the
distribution company (and report back here of course).


Just remember that cheap MMs are really only an indication at best. Back in
the days when I used to have to check voltages I carried a (very expensive)
laboratory substandard that was checked annually against a national
standard. Not unknown for DMMs or cheap analogue MMs to read as much as
10-15volts different to the SS! Indeed, I also had (and still have,
somewhere) an Avo8 that read different to the SS. And it had been for
recalibration five or six times over the years. :-(

--
the dot wanderer at tesco dot net
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"The Wanderer" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 04 Jun 2007 17:02:22 +0100, Ben wrote:

The Wanderer wrote:
Are you in a rural or urban location? Sounds very much like a problem
with
the distribution network that supplies your property. This can quite
often
be a real problem in rural areas, where distribution networks can be
like
wet string, particularly where there hasn't been much development for a
few
years.


Its very much a rural area, and to answer a question from another post
the dimming is continuous until the heavy load is switched off. I'll
measure the voltage drop and if its excessive report it to the
distribution company (and report back here of course).


Just remember that cheap MMs are really only an indication at best. Back
in
the days when I used to have to check voltages I carried a (very
expensive)
laboratory substandard that was checked annually against a national
standard. Not unknown for DMMs or cheap analogue MMs to read as much as
10-15volts different to the SS! Indeed, I also had (and still have,
somewhere) an Avo8 that read different to the SS. And it had been for
recalibration five or six times over the years. :-(

--
the dot wanderer at tesco dot net


It used to make me chuckle the SS stood for sub-standard, and these were the
most accurate analogue meters availible. I used to use japanese make,
yokogawa for spot tesing, these cost about £800 each.. We then changed from
paper chart recoring meters, to a unit called a Telog Linecorder, which was
a pc based system and the cost went to about £3500, per unit including all
the leads.

We used to be able to tell from the results which side of the connection the
fault was.


--
Regards

Stephen Dawson
Fox Electrical Services Ltd
www.foxelectrical.co.uk


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On Tue, 05 Jun 2007 22:19:59 GMT, Stephen Dawson wrote:

"The Wanderer" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 04 Jun 2007 17:02:22 +0100, Ben wrote:

The Wanderer wrote:
Are you in a rural or urban location? Sounds very much like a problem
with
the distribution network that supplies your property. This can quite
often
be a real problem in rural areas, where distribution networks can be
like
wet string, particularly where there hasn't been much development for a
few
years.

Its very much a rural area, and to answer a question from another post
the dimming is continuous until the heavy load is switched off. I'll
measure the voltage drop and if its excessive report it to the
distribution company (and report back here of course).


Just remember that cheap MMs are really only an indication at best. Back
in
the days when I used to have to check voltages I carried a (very
expensive)
laboratory substandard that was checked annually against a national
standard. Not unknown for DMMs or cheap analogue MMs to read as much as
10-15volts different to the SS! Indeed, I also had (and still have,
somewhere) an Avo8 that read different to the SS. And it had been for
recalibration five or six times over the years. :-(

--
the dot wanderer at tesco dot net


It used to make me chuckle the SS stood for sub-standard, and these were the
most accurate analogue meters availible. I used to use japanese make,
yokogawa for spot tesing, these cost about £800 each.


Ah, Yokogawa. I just *couldn't* remember the make, only that it was
Japanese, and with a heavily damped movement that used to swing somewhat
lazily to its reading.

We then changed from
paper chart recoring meters, to a unit called a Telog Linecorder, which was
a pc based system and the cost went to about £3500, per unit including all
the leads.


Dataloggers were only just becoming widespread when I left the industry in
1993, and I'd been away from matters operational anyway for a couple of
years prior to that - preparation and subsequent auditting of company
capital budgets! Mind you, it was nice for a couple of years after I left
to be able to say I'd prepared a company budget of about £130m.

--
the dot wanderer at tesco dot net


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Default lights go dim when kettle switches on

On 4 Jun, 17:02, Ben wrote:
The Wanderer wrote:
Are you in a rural or urban location? Sounds very much like a problem with
the distribution network that supplies your property. This can quite often
be a real problem in rural areas, where distribution networks can be like
wet string, particularly where there hasn't been much development for a few
years.


Its very much a rural area, and to answer a question from another post
the dimming is continuous until the heavy load is switched off. I'll
measure the voltage drop and if its excessive report it to the
distribution company (and report back here of course).


Recently, during the renovation of my house, I found that all my
wiring was jammed through a hole in a wooden beam. I had to reroute it
to do some work there (a full rewire is immanent). When I finally
managed to extricate the various circuits from the hole ( I have no
idea how they got them in there), there were clear signs of
overheating. After connecting everything back up, my lights were
definitely brighter, and my kettle boils quicker too.

I wouldn't rule out a problem in your house until you've made sure
that your circuits are as they should be. In my house half the
bathroom wiring was spurred of the cooker circuit. If your supply is
affected by a kettle, you must be extremely remote.

Regards

T

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Default lights go dim when kettle switches on

On 4 Jun, 18:07, Ben wrote:
wrote:
I wouldn't rule out a problem in your house until you've made sure
that your circuits are as they should be. In my house half the
bathroom wiring was spurred of the cooker circuit. If your supply is
affected by a kettle, you must be extremely remote.


The thing is, any light (ceiling or socket, house or annexe) dims, and
the house and annexe are on different fuseboxes, so I reckon the voltage
has to drop at the point where the mains enters the house.


If I were you, I would check that all your circuits are in good order.
Does removing your fuses disable the circuits in your house as you
expect? Do the fuse wires look correct? Sometimes second fuse boxes
are just wired like any other final circuit (I have two of those)
sometimes off similar meter tails (I have one of those) and sometimes
off reduced meter tails (I have one of those too).

The symptoms you describe do seem to indicate a supply problem, but I
find that hard to believe unless you are extremely remote. I and two
neighboring houses are supplied by the same 25mmish overhead cable. It
attaches to my house, then splits into 3. I can't tell if they are
boiling a kettle.

T

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Default lights go dim when kettle switches on

Ben wrote:
The Wanderer wrote:
Are you in a rural or urban location? Sounds very much like a problem
with
the distribution network that supplies your property. This can quite
often
be a real problem in rural areas, where distribution networks can be like
wet string, particularly where there hasn't been much development for
a few
years.


Its very much a rural area, and to answer a question from another post
the dimming is continuous until the heavy load is switched off. I'll
measure the voltage drop and if its excessive report it to the
distribution company (and report back here of course).


How does the power come in? overhead from a pole mounted transformer? or
underground?.

If the former, get the leccy company to get you a better one.


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Default lights go dim when kettle switches on - Can we have follow up please




"Ben" wrote in message
...
We recently moved to a new house (built in the 40's with an annexe added
in the 80s). The lights go dim when anything with high current drain like
a kettle or electric shower is turned on. This works for all different
combinations of ceiling lights and lights plugged into sockets in the
house and the annexe, and happens when any high-current appliance is
switched on in the house or the annexe (which are on different fuseboxes).
This would suggest to me that the voltage is dropping at the point where
the mains enters the house, and therefore that the cable coming up from
the road is under rated. Does this sound like a reasonable conclusion, and
is it something we should worry about?


Hi Ben, i am interested to know what the problem was.

--
Regards

Stephen Dawson
Fox Electrical Services Ltd
www.foxelectrical.co.uk


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