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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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I've been given an elderly (40-50 years) cultivator - 4 stroke Briggs
and Stratton single cylinder engine. Seems to be all OK and the engine runs fine. However I believe I should be adding something to the petrol to make it equivalent to that containing lead. A local agricultural machinery company said this wasn't necessary, but a decoke would be advisable. What's the collective's opinion please ? Thanks Rob |
#2
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In article .com,
robgraham wrote: I've been given an elderly (40-50 years) cultivator - 4 stroke Briggs and Stratton single cylinder engine. Seems to be all OK and the engine runs fine. However I believe I should be adding something to the petrol to make it equivalent to that containing lead. A local agricultural machinery company said this wasn't necessary, but a decoke would be advisable. What's the collective's opinion please ? It really depends what the exhaust valve seat consists of. If it's part of a cast iron block or cylinder head you might well have problems, but even then not always. If the material the seat is in is aluminium it will have a steel insert which is almost certainly hard enough. -- *I have plenty of talent and vision. I just don't care. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#3
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robgraham wrote:
I've been given an elderly (40-50 years) cultivator - 4 stroke Briggs and Stratton single cylinder engine. Seems to be all OK and the engine runs fine. However I believe I should be adding something to the petrol to make it equivalent to that containing lead. A local agricultural machinery company said this wasn't necessary, but a decoke would be advisable. What's the collective's opinion please ? I'm with the local company. A 50 year old briggs and stratton probably runs best on a mixture of poteen and medical ether anyway. :-) Decoke and regrind the valves, pour in something vaguely petroleum based and it will run. Thanks Rob |
#4
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In message .com,
robgraham writes I've been given an elderly (40-50 years) cultivator - 4 stroke Briggs and Stratton single cylinder engine. Seems to be all OK and the engine runs fine. However I believe I should be adding something to the petrol to make it equivalent to that containing lead. A local agricultural machinery company said this wasn't necessary, but a decoke would be advisable. What's the collective's opinion please ? If in doubt, just buy some petrol additive - available from plenty of outlets -- geoff |
#5
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In article ,
raden wrote: In message .com, robgraham writes I've been given an elderly (40-50 years) cultivator - 4 stroke Briggs and Stratton single cylinder engine. Seems to be all OK and the engine runs fine. However I believe I should be adding something to the petrol to make it equivalent to that containing lead. A local agricultural machinery company said this wasn't necessary, but a decoke would be advisable. What's the collective's opinion please ? If in doubt, just buy some petrol additive - available from plenty of outlets Trouble is, according to the classic car mags, the jury's out on whether they actually work - unless they contain lead which most don't. An old engine builds up a coating of lead and this can last for a long time after the source is removed. -- *Why is it that rain drops but snow falls? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#6
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , raden wrote: In message .com, robgraham writes I've been given an elderly (40-50 years) cultivator - 4 stroke Briggs and Stratton single cylinder engine. Seems to be all OK and the engine runs fine. However I believe I should be adding something to the petrol to make it equivalent to that containing lead. A local agricultural machinery company said this wasn't necessary, but a decoke would be advisable. What's the collective's opinion please ? If in doubt, just buy some petrol additive - available from plenty of outlets Trouble is, according to the classic car mags, the jury's out on whether they actually work - unless they contain lead which most don't. An old engine builds up a coating of lead and this can last for a long time after the source is removed. Not sure that a 50 year old agricultural engine would have run on leaded petrol anyway. Very low RPM, usually low compression as well..most of the reasons to put lead in were to do with squeezing extra power out of engines by raising CR and RPM limits. |
#7
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In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote: Trouble is, according to the classic car mags, the jury's out on whether they actually work - unless they contain lead which most don't. An old engine builds up a coating of lead and this can last for a long time after the source is removed. Not sure that a 50 year old agricultural engine would have run on leaded petrol anyway. All petrol had lead in it since roughly WW2 until the recent(ish) ban. Very low RPM, usually low compression as well..most of the reasons to put lead in were to do with squeezing extra power out of engines by raising CR and RPM limits. But had the added lubrication and cooling properties that allowed the use of poor quality valve seat materials. -- *If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#8
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , The Natural Philosopher wrote: Trouble is, according to the classic car mags, the jury's out on whether they actually work - unless they contain lead which most don't. An old engine builds up a coating of lead and this can last for a long time after the source is removed. Not sure that a 50 year old agricultural engine would have run on leaded petrol anyway. All petrol had lead in it since roughly WW2 until the recent(ish) ban. Very low RPM, usually low compression as well..most of the reasons to put lead in were to do with squeezing extra power out of engines by raising CR and RPM limits. But had the added lubrication and cooling properties that allowed the use of poor quality valve seat materials. The average lawnmower engine will have run the sort of cycles over 50 years that would barely get a car from here to Brighton. And generates the sort of power that would disgrace even a BMC 1100. It doesn't NEED to have advanced materials..and didn't then and doesn't now. |
#9
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In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes Trouble is, according to the classic car mags, the jury's out on whether they actually work - unless they contain lead which most don't. An old engine builds up a coating of lead and this can last for a long time after the source is removed. You can still buy leaded fuel though. The places that sell it are few and far between but they do exist. -- Clint Sharp |
#10
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Clint Sharp wrote
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes Trouble is, according to the classic car mags, the jury's out on whether they actually work - unless they contain lead which most don't. An old engine builds up a coating of lead and this can last for a long time after the source is removed. You can still buy leaded fuel though. The places that sell it are few and far between but they do exist. http://www.leadedpetrol.co.uk/ -- Roger Hunt |
#11
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On 18 Mar, 16:04, Roger Hunt wrote:
Clint Sharp wrote In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes Trouble is, according to the classic car mags, the jury's out on whether they actually work - unless they contain lead which most don't. An old engine builds up a coating of lead and this can last for a long time after the source is removed. You can still buy leaded fuel though. The places that sell it are few and far between but they do exist. http://www.leadedpetrol.co.uk/ -- Roger Hunt Quote from this website :- "That means you can advance the timing and raise the compression ratio or turbo boost higher with leaded petrol than is possible with unleaded or LRP, without detonation. That equals more power from your engine. If you are involved in racing where seconds count, that could be the edge you are looking for." I'm driving a 50 year old single cylinder cultivator !! Do I need to add anything more ? Rob |
#12
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On 13 Mar, 23:15, "robgraham" wrote:
I've been given an elderly (40-50 years) cultivator - 4 stroke Briggs and Stratton single cylinder engine. Seems to be all OK and the engine runs fine. However I believe I should be adding something to the petrol to make it equivalent to that containing lead. A local agricultural machinery company said this wasn't necessary, but a decoke would be advisable. What's the collective's opinion please ? Thanks Rob Thanks guys - the thought had crossed my mind that the duty cycle,etc would be so low that an additive might well not be necessary. Interestingly I have tried several what I thought were suitable outlets and they looked at me rather blankly ! Re. then suggestions of a decoke, how do I get round the probable problem of a gasket, etc ? Thanks again Rob |
#13
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On Mar 15, 9:14 am, "robgraham" wrote:
On 13 Mar, 23:15, "robgraham" wrote: I've been given an elderly (40-50 years) cultivator - 4 stroke Briggs and Stratton single cylinder engine. Seems to be all OK and the engine runs fine. However I believe I should be adding something to the petrol to make it equivalent to that containing lead. A local agricultural machinery company said this wasn't necessary, but a decoke would be advisable. What's the collective's opinion please ? Thanks Rob Thanks guys - the thought had crossed my mind that the duty cycle,etc would be so low that an additive might well not be necessary. Interestingly I have tried several what I thought were suitable outlets and they looked at me rather blankly ! Re. then suggestions of a decoke, how do I get round the probable problem of a gasket, etc ? Thanks again Rob Just adjust the valves, change the oil etc and use it. That's what I'd do if it were me and it otherwise ran ok. |
#14
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robgraham wrote:
On 13 Mar, 23:15, "robgraham" wrote: I've been given an elderly (40-50 years) cultivator - 4 stroke Briggs and Stratton single cylinder engine. Seems to be all OK and the engine runs fine. However I believe I should be adding something to the petrol to make it equivalent to that containing lead. A local agricultural machinery company said this wasn't necessary, but a decoke would be advisable. What's the collective's opinion please ? Thanks Rob Thanks guys - the thought had crossed my mind that the duty cycle,etc would be so low that an additive might well not be necessary. Interestingly I have tried several what I thought were suitable outlets and they looked at me rather blankly ! Re. then suggestions of a decoke, how do I get round the probable problem of a gasket, etc ? Make one. You can in extremis use lead sheet..copper sheet..I've even used cornflake packets for water gaskets. Thanks again Rob |
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