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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
I purchased three radiators recently to add to our
existing system. One small one 500 wide x 600 high, and two large tall 1800 high x 400 wide. When I came to fit them I found that both of the tall radiators had stuff inside them. As I turned them on end I could hear the stuff sliding down the fins. I phoned the manufacturer and they recommended that I did not fit them. They would swap them out - no quibble. Unfortunately one of the replacements is the same. I managed to remove a couple of bits of swarf - see photo.... http://www.gillandroy.com/diy/radiator Again the manufacturer is swapping it out. However, the guy I spoke to said that they recommended flushing the system after fitting. Is this a usual procedure when adding new rads? It would appear that their manufacturing process is not in good shape. I'm a bit concerned that even after flushing the system there might be swarf hanging by a thread that will detach in the future and screw up my pump/boiler. Thoughts? Thanks, Roy |
#2
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
However, the guy I spoke to said that they recommended flushing the system after fitting. Is this a usual procedure when adding new rads? I also fitted a new towel radiator during my bathroom refit. The manufacturers also recommnded a complete flush of the system after fitting. I expect they are just covering themselves. There was no way I was going to the cost and effort of draining, flushing and refilling my entire CH system, so I just gave it a good old shake to clear out any debris before fitting. |
#3
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
On Mon, 5 Mar 2007 11:26:33 -0000, "RzB"
wrote: However, the guy I spoke to said that they recommended flushing the system after fitting. Is this a usual procedure when adding new rads? It would appear that their manufacturing process is not in good shape. I'm a bit concerned that even after flushing the system there might be swarf hanging by a thread that will detach in the future and screw up my pump/boiler. Thoughts? Thanks, Roy I always give them a thorough flush through before fitting using a pressure washer. There's no point in leaving crud in there to be carried into the system. This may be tricky to do with a tall radiator. Are there vents at the top that you can remove to allow a good flush right to the top? -- ..andy |
#4
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
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#5
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
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#6
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
"Andy Hall" wrote
I always give them a thorough flush through before fitting using a pressure washer. There's no point in leaving crud in there to be carried into the system. This may be tricky to do with a tall radiator. Are there vents at the top that you can remove to allow a good flush right to the top? Ahh - yes of course a pressure washer. I have a Karcher - I take it that's the sort of thing you mean? How do you connect it up? There are two vents at the bottom and one at the top - so should be doable. Thanks for your help, Roy |
#7
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
Gents,
Many thanks for your posts. I think you are right that flushing prior to fitting is more sensible, and a lot cheaper! Thanks, Roy |
#8
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
On Mon, 5 Mar 2007 19:41:44 -0000, "RzB"
wrote: "Andy Hall" wrote I always give them a thorough flush through before fitting using a pressure washer. There's no point in leaving crud in there to be carried into the system. This may be tricky to do with a tall radiator. Are there vents at the top that you can remove to allow a good flush right to the top? Ahh - yes of course a pressure washer. I have a Karcher - I take it that's the sort of thing you mean? How do you connect it up? Choose suitable nozzle and apply to each orifice on the radiator in turn. Squirt for a short while and move on. The objective is only to dislodge loose bits which this will certainly do. There are two vents at the bottom and one at the top - so should be doable. Thanks for your help, Roy -- ..andy |
#9
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 19:41:44 +0000, RzB wrote:
"Andy Hall" wrote I always give them a thorough flush through before fitting using a pressure washer. There's no point in leaving crud in there to be carried into the system. This may be tricky to do with a tall radiator. Are there vents at the top that you can remove to allow a good flush right to the top? Ahh - yes of course a pressure washer. I have a Karcher - I take it that's the sort of thing you mean? How do you connect it up? There are two vents at the bottom and one at the top - so should be doable. Thanks for your help, Roy ================================ I think the hose pipe would do a better job than the pressure washer. You need plenty of water rather than great pressure which would be difficult to direct properly. Block the two bottom holes (sticky tape will do) and fill from the top and when full open the bottom holes whilst keeping the hose running in at the top. Reverse the process if you think it's necessary. Cic. -- ================================ Testing UBUNTU Linux Everything working so far ================================ |
#10
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
In article , RzB
..newsgroup writes Gents, Many thanks for your posts. I think you are right that flushing prior to fitting is more sensible, and a lot cheaper! It does seem to suggest that a strainer is a very good idea on all systems. I put a standard 22mm one on my system at build time and it has always bothered me that it would clog too easily if there were any bits floating around. When the system was down for maintenance last year I up'd the size to an 1 1/2" bsp model which is, er, a little over the top (1 1/2" didn't sound that big when I read the catalogue) but I know it's not going to oppose the flow. On reflection 1" or 1 1/4" would be fine. I also put in a 22mm full flow ball valve on either side for isolation so I can check it without draining down. Strainers he http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/098.asp -- fred Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla |
#11
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 22:02:54 GMT, fred wrote:
In article , RzB .newsgroup writes Gents, Many thanks for your posts. I think you are right that flushing prior to fitting is more sensible, and a lot cheaper! It does seem to suggest that a strainer is a very good idea on all systems. I put a standard 22mm one on my system at build time and it has always bothered me that it would clog too easily if there were any bits floating around. When the system was down for maintenance last year I up'd the size to an 1 1/2" bsp model which is, er, a little over the top (1 1/2" didn't sound that big when I read the catalogue) but I know it's not going to oppose the flow. On reflection 1" or 1 1/4" would be fine. I also put in a 22mm full flow ball valve on either side for isolation so I can check it without draining down. Strainers he http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/098.asp I agree. This makes sense as well. If the order of the system is to have strainer - boiler - pump then there is no cause for concern from radiator crud -- ..andy |
#12
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
"fred" wrote in message ...
In article , RzB .newsgroup writes Gents, Many thanks for your posts. I think you are right that flushing prior to fitting is more sensible, and a lot cheaper! It does seem to suggest that a strainer is a very good idea on all systems. I put a standard 22mm one on my system at build time and it has always bothered me that it would clog too easily if there were any bits floating around. When the system was down for maintenance last year I up'd the size to an 1 1/2" bsp model which is, er, a little over the top (1 1/2" didn't sound that big when I read the catalogue) but I know it's not going to oppose the flow. On reflection 1" or 1 1/4" would be fine. I also put in a 22mm full flow ball valve on either side for isolation so I can check it without draining down. Strainers he http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/098.asp -- fred Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla Fred, Many, many thanks for that - I didn't know such things existed!!! I'll investigate some more and will almost certainly be fitting one. Thanks, Roy |
#13
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
In article , RzB
o.newsgroup writes "fred" wrote in message ... Strainers he http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/098.asp Many, many thanks for that - I didn't know such things existed!!! I'll investigate some more and will almost certainly be fitting one. Ah, glad I mentioned it then, given the price there's no reason not to, yet many 'pro' systems won't have one. The final tip is to have the strainer on a horizontal run just before the boiler with the Y-branch facing downwards so the crud will stay in the mesh waiting to be removed. It's not that easy to do as the easiest spot for accessibility will be on a vert run just before the boiler but it is best practice. -- fred Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla |
#14
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 22:02:54 GMT Fred wrote :
It does seem to suggest that a strainer is a very good idea on all systems. I put a standard 22mm one on my system at build time and it has always bothered me that it would clog too easily if there were any bits floating around. When the system was down for maintenance last year I up'd the size to an 1 1/2" bsp model which is, er, a little over the top (1 1/2" didn't sound that big when I read the catalogue) but I know it's not going to oppose the flow. On reflection 1" or 1 1/4" would be fine. I also put in a 22mm full flow ball valve on either side for isolation so I can check it without draining down. Strainers he http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/098.asp I put a Y-strainer on my mum's CH and it was for ever blocking up with very fine particles (in spite of having been fully flushed more than one) so I swapped it for a Magnaclean - not cheap but trouble free. http://www.adeysolutions.co.uk/magnaclean/ -- Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk |
#15
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
"Tony Bryer" wrote
I put a Y-strainer on my mum's CH and it was for ever blocking up with very fine particles (in spite of having been fully flushed more than one) so I swapped it for a Magnaclean - not cheap but trouble free. http://www.adeysolutions.co.uk/magnaclean/ Tony, Hmm - very interesting. I'll investigate further. Many thanks for your help, Roy |
#16
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Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
In article , Tony Bryer
writes On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 22:02:54 GMT Fred wrote : It does seem to suggest that a strainer is a very good idea on all systems. I put a standard 22mm one on my system at build time and it has always bothered me that it would clog too easily if there were any bits floating around. When the system was down for maintenance last year I up'd the size to an 1 1/2" bsp model which is, er, a little over the top (1 1/2" didn't sound that big when I read the catalogue) but I know it's not going to oppose the flow. On reflection 1" or 1 1/4" would be fine. I also put in a 22mm full flow ball valve on either side for isolation so I can check it without draining down. Strainers he http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/098.asp I put a Y-strainer on my mum's CH and it was for ever blocking up with very fine particles (in spite of having been fully flushed more than one) so I swapped it for a Magnaclean - not cheap but trouble free. http://www.adeysolutions.co.uk/magnaclean/ MagnaClean Central Heating Cleaner (PWMG0001) Price (inc VAT): £129.97 (Plumbworld) Wow, you can get a lot of 1 1/2" strainers for that. I think if the system is collecting that much crud then there is something fundamentally wrong with the system, that said I think standard size strainers are a waste of time, anything goes wrong in the system and the first thing you hear are low flow symptoms, noise, kettling. Go large. -- fred Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla |
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