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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Hi
I have a Heatline S30 Boiler ~3 Years old. I dont have any TRV's on my Rads (I have 7 Rads). I was wondering what would be better to spend money on. Fit TRV's to all rads or get a programmale stat. Which would benefit me more and even make my heating system more efficient and obviously save me some money. Thanks |
#2
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yshaikh01 wrote:
I have a Heatline S30 Boiler ~3 Years old. I dont have any TRV's on my Rads (I have 7 Rads). I was wondering what would be better to spend money on. Fit TRV's to all rads or get a programmale stat. Which would benefit me more and even make my heating system more efficient and obviously save me some money. Well the obvious answer is to do both. Both will save money and improve comfort levels in the house. The programmable stat is very easy to do (20 min job), so you could do that straight away. The rad valves obviously take a bit more work and planning. Remember not to fit a TRV to the rad in the room with the stat. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#3
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yshaikh01 wrote:
Hi I have a Heatline S30 Boiler ~3 Years old. I dont have any TRV's on my Rads (I have 7 Rads). I was wondering what would be better to spend money on. Fit TRV's to all rads or get a programmale stat. Which would benefit me more and even make my heating system more efficient and obviously save me some money. Thanks Depends on you system, theres no way we can know. If its all balanced perfectly you dont need TRVs. If OTOH the setup is unbalanceable they wll save money - or in fact cost you, all depends. A progstat only saves money if youre wiling to settle for lower temps some of the day. NT |
#4
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John Rumm wrote:
The rad valves obviously take a bit more work and planning. Remember not to fit a TRV to the rad in the room with the stat. How easy is it to fit valves? We have some fitted (9 rads) but not on others (another 5 rads,, mainly in hallways/small rooms). E. |
#6
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eastender wrote:
The rad valves obviously take a bit more work and planning. Remember not to fit a TRV to the rad in the room with the stat. How easy is it to fit valves? We have some fitted (9 rads) but not on others (another 5 rads,, mainly in hallways/small rooms). It is one of those jobs that *ought* to be quite easy, but in reality can be a PITA! Much will depend on what valves you currently have, what you plan to fit, and the general state of your system. You need to drain the system down (at least enough to relieve the pressure in the places you are working). Sometimes you can get a valve in as a striaght swap. However the list of possible gottchas include: The new valves not having the same dimentions as the old, requiring tweeks to the pipework or rad position to make things fit. Some valves may require different sized/shaped rad tails, which will mean you need to replace the tails as well. These are not always striaghtforward since there are a number of different ways these tighten (some with a spanner, some with an allen key stuffed up the inside etc). Then all the usual problems with sized components etc. Some TRVs will be fussy about which side (i.e. flow or return) they work best on so you will need to choose the right side. Finally you need to refill (and add more corrosian inhibitor if required). -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#7
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yshaikh01 wrote: Hi I have a Heatline S30 Boiler ~3 Years old. I dont have any TRV's on my Rads (I have 7 Rads). I was wondering what would be better to spend money on. Fit TRV's to all rads or get a programmale stat. Which would benefit me more and even make my heating system more efficient and obviously save me some money. Nice title. To the point and succinct. |
#9
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In article m,
yshaikh01 wrote: I have a Heatline S30 Boiler ~3 Years old. I dont have any TRV's on my Rads (I have 7 Rads). I was wondering what would be better to spend money on. Fit TRV's to all rads or get a programmale stat. Which would benefit me more and even make my heating system more efficient and obviously save me some money. Best to have both. It might be ideal to have TRVs everywhere and a radio stat so you can experiment to find the best place for it - leaving the TRVs in that area full up. I have my stat in the living area (no TRVs there) and that works well - apart from over Xmas with a house full where the heat from the bodies kept the system off for the rest of the house. -- *'Progress' and 'Change' are not synonyms. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#10
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On Fri, 29 Dec 2006 14:07:53 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: apart from over Xmas with a house full where the heat from the bodies kept the system off for the rest of the house. Cannibal feast in the drawing room was it? -- |
#11
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John Rumm wrote:
It is one of those jobs that *ought* to be quite easy, but in reality can be a PITA! Much will depend on what valves you currently have, what you plan to fit, and the general state Thanks - beyond me but worth getting a quote for I guess, as we don't have a hall 'stat and I'd like to leave the heating on low during cold nights. Or would a simple solution be a hall 'stat linked direct to heating on/off programmer? The hot water cylinder and controls are under hallway stairs. E. |
#12
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"Weatherlawyer" wrote in message ps.com... yshaikh01 wrote: Hi I have a Heatline S30 Boiler ~3 Years old. I dont have any TRV's on my Rads (I have 7 Rads). I was wondering what would be better to spend money on. Fit TRV's to all rads or get a programmale stat. Which would benefit me more and even make my heating system more efficient and obviously save me some money. Nice title. To the point and succinct. FEELING BETTER? Sylvain. |
#13
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eastender wrote:
Thanks - beyond me but worth getting a quote for I guess, as we don't have a hall 'stat and I'd like to leave the heating on low during cold nights. Or would a simple solution be a hall 'stat linked direct to heating on/off programmer? The hot water cylinder and controls are under hallway stairs. If you have a programmable stat it in effect replaces the functionality of the programmer for the heating. Rather than worry about when you want the heating on or off, simply set the stat so that you have the desired temperatures when you want. So for example, I set ours to an overnight temperature of 16 degrees. Generally this means the heating will not fire at all at night, but it would kick in if it were really cold outside. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#14
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John Rumm wrote in
: eastender wrote: Thanks - beyond me but worth getting a quote for I guess, as we don't have a hall 'stat and I'd like to leave the heating on low during cold nights. Or would a simple solution be a hall 'stat linked direct to heating on/off programmer? The hot water cylinder and controls are under hallway stairs. If you have a programmable stat it in effect replaces the functionality of the programmer for the heating. Rather than worry about when you want the heating on or off, simply set the stat so that you have the desired temperatures when you want. So for example, I set ours to an overnight temperature of 16 degrees. Generally this means the heating will not fire at all at night, but it would kick in if it were really cold outside. That's what i want... So do I replace the existing programmer (a Honeywell, about 4 yaers old) with one with a stat? Or can i add a stat to the Honeywell? thx E. |
#15
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eastender wrote:
If you have a programmable stat it in effect replaces the functionality of the programmer for the heating. Rather than worry about when you want the heating on or off, simply set the stat so that you have the desired temperatures when you want. So for example, I set ours to an overnight temperature of 16 degrees. Generally this means the heating will not fire at all at night, but it would kick in if it were really cold outside. That's what i want... So do I replace the existing programmer (a Honeywell, about 4 yaers old) with one with a stat? Or can i add a stat to the Honeywell? You can usually add a stat independantly of the programmer (the boiler will have dedicated connections for it). The programmer can then be left with the heating set to run all the time, with the stat doing the actual control as required. If wiring the stat is a pain then you can get wireless stats - you connect the controller to the boiler and position the actual stat anywhere suitable (or even try several places to find the best). If your house takes a while to heat up then you might find it worth getting an optimising stat. These learn the heat up characteristics of the house and can turn the heating on in advance of a programmed temperature rise to ensure the temperature selected for a given time will be achived at that time, and not some variable period after. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#16
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In article ,
John Rumm wrote: If wiring the stat is a pain then you can get wireless stats - you connect the controller to the boiler and position the actual stat anywhere suitable (or even try several places to find the best). Ah, this looks interesting, as the boiler is a long way from the hall. It's a 4 year old Valliant, which I presume is a suitable candidate. E. |
#17
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In message ,
eastender writes In article , John Rumm wrote: If wiring the stat is a pain then you can get wireless stats - you connect the controller to the boiler and position the actual stat anywhere suitable (or even try several places to find the best). Ah, this looks interesting, as the boiler is a long way from the hall. It's a 4 year old Valliant, which I presume is a suitable candidate. Pins 3, 4 and 5 on almost any Vaillant main pcb from the 242 onwards would be suitable - read the manual -- geoff |
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