Hi All,

What is the best method for sealing an immersion heater
into its heater boss?
Used Boss Green last night but it still seems to be weeping
a bit.
Any ideas,

Thanks,
Matthew

On 11 Dec 2006 02:28:49 -0800 someone who may be "Matthew"
wrote this:-

What is the best method for sealing an immersion heater
into its heater boss?

Patience.

Used Boss Green last night but it still seems to be weeping
a bit.

Catch any drips. See if it is still weeping next weekend.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

In article , David Hansen
writes
On 11 Dec 2006 02:28:49 -0800 someone who may be "Matthew"
wrote this:-

What is the best method for sealing an immersion heater
into its heater boss?

Patience.

Used Boss Green last night but it still seems to be weeping
a bit.

Catch any drips. See if it is still weeping next weekend.



Make sure both surfaces are clean and flat. Make sure the sealing gasket
is even and isn't distorted in any way.

Put a smear of leak sealant, smells like silicone sealant, much the same
thing, and tighten up but take care not to take the thin copper plate of
the hot water tank with you and all I've done that way have been fine
--
Tony Sayer

Matthew wrote:

What is the best method for sealing an immersion heater
into its heater boss?

The fibre washer supplied. Nothing else should be required.

--
Andy

On 11 Dec 2006 02:28:49 -0800 Matthew wrote :
What is the best method for sealing an immersion heater
into its heater boss?
Used Boss Green last night but it still seems to be weeping
a bit.
Any ideas,

I've wrapped layer on layer of PTFE tape into the tread/flange
intersect to make a sort of O-ring and this has always worked. I
would prefer not to use any sort of sealant which sets as it may
make the heater irremovable.

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk

I didnt want to overtighten the fitting for fear of tank damage. It
only tends to weep
when the tank is over 3/4 full so it must be a very small area.

Yesterday I tried the following;

1) Just fibre washer.
2) Boss green and fibre washer.
3) Just boss green.
4) A couple of turns of PTFE.

A 160 litre drain down each time!
Just boss green gave the best seal.
A drip every 5 mins or so.
Im tempted to leave it for a week with the temperature cycling and see
if it
seals itself.
Another option maybe is to try another type of gasket sealant, any
ideas?
or maybe, rather than just a couple of turns of PTFE tape, try several?

Thanks for any advice,
Matthew

On Mon, 11 Dec 2006 11:06:32 GMT, Tony Bryer wrote:

On 11 Dec 2006 02:28:49 -0800 Matthew wrote :
What is the best method for sealing an immersion heater
into its heater boss?
Used Boss Green last night but it still seems to be weeping
a bit.
Any ideas,

I've wrapped layer on layer of PTFE tape into the tread/flange
intersect to make a sort of O-ring and this has always worked. I
would prefer not to use any sort of sealant which sets as it may
make the heater irremovable.

Yup, been there. I didn't use the sealant but a previous occupier had
changed an immersion heater and looked to have used an engine gasket
sealant. Late Saturday, an hour or so before the sheds closed, and bugger
it, I need a new cylinder.......

--
the dot wanderer at tesco dot net

Matthew wrote:
I didnt want to overtighten the fitting for fear of tank damage. It
only tends to weep
when the tank is over 3/4 full so it must be a very small area.

Yesterday I tried the following;

1) Just fibre washer.
2) Boss green and fibre washer.
3) Just boss green.
4) A couple of turns of PTFE.

A 160 litre drain down each time!
Just boss green gave the best seal.
A drip every 5 mins or so.
Im tempted to leave it for a week with the temperature cycling and see
if it
seals itself.
Another option maybe is to try another type of gasket sealant, any
ideas?
or maybe, rather than just a couple of turns of PTFE tape, try several?

Thanks for any advice,
Matthew


Only ever done one but I just used the fibre washer. I think the trick
is to tighten as much as you dare, fill the tank, allow the washer to
become totally soaked - it will leak at this point and then give it an
extra tighten. The fibre washer will compress a bit more when wet.

Ive just been to the ironmongers and bought two new
fibre gaskets. They seem far more chunky than the supplied effort.
Will go for ptfe tape on the thread and one of the new gaskets.
Hopefully that will sort it.

BTW I highly recommend the company I bought the cylinder
through they were IFS and are based on the South coast.

http://www.gasapplianceguide.co.uk/index.html

I ordered a new 160 litre Geldhill cylinder along with a diagram
showing the custom fittings I wanted on the cylinder and coil
type etc. The cost was significantly less than an off the shelf
make from my plumbers merchants to the tune of about £100
and it turned up in 3 days straight from Gledhills!

Might repost this as a seperate thread as other people may
be interested. It saved us a lot of money.

Matthew

Matthew wrote:
Ive just been to the ironmongers and bought two new
fibre gaskets. They seem far more chunky than the supplied effort.
Will go for ptfe tape on the thread and one of the new gaskets.
Hopefully that will sort it.

You shouldn't technically need the PTFE tape, as the washer provides the
seal.

On 11 Dec 2006 05:37:09 -0800, Matthew wrote:
Ive just been to the ironmongers and bought two new
fibre gaskets. They seem far more chunky than the supplied effort.
Will go for ptfe tape on the thread and one of the new gaskets.
Hopefully that will sort it.

BTW I highly recommend the company I bought the cylinder
through they were IFS and are based on the South coast.

http://www.gasapplianceguide.co.uk/index.html

I ordered a new 160 litre Geldhill cylinder along with a diagram
showing the custom fittings I wanted on the cylinder and coil
type etc. The cost was significantly less than an off the shelf
make from my plumbers merchants to the tune of about £100
and it turned up in 3 days straight from Gledhills!

Might repost this as a seperate thread as other people may
be interested. It saved us a lot of money.

Matthew

On a related point, why are hot water storage tanks cylindrical?
From a use-of-space point of view I can't think of a less efficient
shape, except maybe a sphere.
Is it merely for the convenience of the manufacturer, or is there
a valid technical reason why they aren't cubic/rectangular?

Pete

--
.................................................. .........................
.. never trust a man who, when left alone ...... Pete Lynch .
.. in a room with a tea cosy ...... Marlow, England .
.. doesn't try it on (Billy Connolly) .....................................

You don't need any sealant as the washer is designed to self seal when it absorbs moisture.

The tank is the shape it is because its very thin copper and is under a little outward pressure so its the most stable configuration. Strength in the bottom due to the weight of the water, equal pressure round the sides and domed top to get any air out.

Awaits much better informed replies!!!!!

Peter Lynch wrote:

On a related point, why are hot water storage tanks cylindrical?
From a use-of-space point of view I can't think of a less efficient
shape, except maybe a sphere.
Is it merely for the convenience of the manufacturer, or is there
a valid technical reason why they aren't cubic/rectangular?

It reduces the surface area to volume ratio, thus reducing the heat loss
for any given volume of water. A sphere would be the _most_
efficient shape...

--
Andy

On Mon, 11 Dec 2006 15:24:28 GMT someone who may be Peter Lynch
wrote this:-

On a related point, why are hot water storage tanks cylindrical?

In addition to what has already been said, the corners of the old
square hot water tanks had a number of problems. Cylinders are a
much better bet.



--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

The domes at the end of a cylinder is for strength to withstand pressure and retain shape against side was distortion, ie sheer forces. Just look at petrol carrying and such tankers.
It is the mathematics involved telling you to use a concave or convex dome on such vessels - not any dome but what the one structural analysis dictates.

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...ng-352259-.htm

On 29/05/2021 17:15, Ken chetin wrote:
The domes at the end of a cylinder is for strength to withstand pressure
and retain shape against side was distortion, ie sheer forces. Just look
at petrol carrying and such tankers. It is the mathematics involved
telling you to use a concave or convex dome on such vessels - not any
dome but what the one structural analysis dictates.


Another 14 year old echo has boomeranged back

On 29/05/2021 17:15, Ken chetin wrote:
The domes at the end of a cylinder is for strength to withstand pressure
and retain shape against side was distortion, ie sheer forces. Just look
at petrol carrying and such tankers. It is the mathematics involved
telling you to use a concave or convex dome on such vessels - not any
dome but what the one structural analysis dictates.

Well, structural analysis will give you the minimum copper solution. In
DHW cylinders it is usual to have convex at the bottom, so it will stand
upright on a flat floor while convex at the top is probably cheaper to
make, as well as making it easy to have a take-off point at the warmest
place, and avoiding a trapped air bubble.

Yes this site is very much bugged or should that be buggered?
Brian

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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Andrew" wrote in message
...
On 29/05/2021 17:15, Ken chetin wrote:
The domes at the end of a cylinder is for strength to withstand pressure
and retain shape against side was distortion, ie sheer forces. Just look
at petrol carrying and such tankers. It is the mathematics involved
telling you to use a concave or convex dome on such vessels - not any
dome but what the one structural analysis dictates.


Another 14 year old echo has boomeranged back

Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote

Yes this site is very much bugged or should that be buggered?

Its illegal to bugger anything without consent now.

"Andrew" wrote in message
...
On 29/05/2021 17:15, Ken chetin wrote:
The domes at the end of a cylinder is for strength to withstand pressure
and retain shape against side was distortion, ie sheer forces. Just look
at petrol carrying and such tankers. It is the mathematics involved
telling you to use a concave or convex dome on such vessels - not any
dome but what the one structural analysis dictates.


Another 14 year old echo has boomeranged back

On Sun, 30 May 2021 19:08:25 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Yes this site is very much bugged or should that be buggered?

Its illegal to bugger anything without consent now.

Spare everyone your senile and sociopathic attempts at some sort of
sociopathic "humour" or "wit", you demented senile sociopathic pest!

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cretin's pathological trolling:
https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/