UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 21
Default Glow-Worm 15HKI Boiler (Gas usage)

A month ago I had a new boiler fitter, The heat settings go up to 82
degrees. I have mine set mid way and the temperature is shown at about
60/62 degrees.
The radiators heat up very quickly and the water in the hot tap is very
hot.
A bit improvement on the last boiler and I am pleased about this
I am just a bit concerned about the gas usage. The 'green'light on the
boiler seems to be on almost constant.
Just wondered if I am using the right setting or is this the norn with
this type of boiler.? I am told I will save on fuel as there is no
pilot light (like the last one)but this one seems to be on 'green' and
using gas far more that the previous one.
( Ok I can read the meter,) but would appreciate any views.re usage and
settings please ( the hand book does not assist)
Peter,

  #2   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 25,191
Default Glow-Worm 15HKI Boiler (Gas usage)

Peter C wrote:

A bit improvement on the last boiler and I am pleased about this
I am just a bit concerned about the gas usage. The 'green'light on the
boiler seems to be on almost constant.


Which (counter intuitively perhaps) is what you want. Chances are the
boiler you replaced had a fixed rate burner - so it was either off or
full on. Hence once the house was near to your desired temperature it
needs to run in short cycles, burning for a bit to get the house over
the set temp, then going off and waiting for it to fall again etc.

Modern boilers have modulating burners and more sophisticated control
systems. They will examine the temperature of the water as it returns to
the boiler from the rads. As the house warms up, and some of the
thermostatic rad valves begin to close down, this return water will get
hotter (as the heating system is absorbing less of the heat from the
flow water). The boiler will respond by turning down its burner and thus
adding less heat to the water. This means that it will tend to run for
longer but at much reduced power (and gas consumption). The result is
the house temperature will remain more even with less overshooting and
cooling cycles. Also, since the boiler cycles less there is less heat
dumped out of the flue each time it turns off and allows the heat
exchanger to cool. Finally a condensing boiler will work more
efficiently with lower temperature water - hence being able to reduce
the boiler power when it is not all required helps here as well.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #3   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 21
Default Glow-Worm 15HKI Boiler (Gas usage)

John.
Many thanks for this very informative reply. Just what I wanted to
know.
Cheers
Peter.
John Rumm wrote:
Peter C wrote:

A bit improvement on the last boiler and I am pleased about this
I am just a bit concerned about the gas usage. The 'green'light on the
boiler seems to be on almost constant.


Which (counter intuitively perhaps) is what you want. Chances are the
boiler you replaced had a fixed rate burner - so it was either off or
full on. Hence once the house was near to your desired temperature it
needs to run in short cycles, burning for a bit to get the house over
the set temp, then going off and waiting for it to fall again etc.

Modern boilers have modulating burners and more sophisticated control
systems. They will examine the temperature of the water as it returns to
the boiler from the rads. As the house warms up, and some of the
thermostatic rad valves begin to close down, this return water will get
hotter (as the heating system is absorbing less of the heat from the
flow water). The boiler will respond by turning down its burner and thus
adding less heat to the water. This means that it will tend to run for
longer but at much reduced power (and gas consumption). The result is
the house temperature will remain more even with less overshooting and
cooling cycles. Also, since the boiler cycles less there is less heat
dumped out of the flue each time it turns off and allows the heat
exchanger to cool. Finally a condensing boiler will work more
efficiently with lower temperature water - hence being able to reduce
the boiler power when it is not all required helps here as well.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Problem with Glow-worm boiler [email protected] UK diy 9 February 4th 06 07:04 PM
Glow-Worm Combi Boiler Fault Paul S UK diy 2 December 11th 05 04:12 AM
glow worm 24 ci combi boiler richard1967 UK diy 3 February 24th 05 06:32 PM
Glow worm boiler problem Peter Kelly UK diy 6 December 16th 03 04:51 PM
Is a Glow Worm 18HXI boiler any good? Tim Mitchell UK diy 5 July 31st 03 10:09 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:11 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"