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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Advice please on what hand saw to buy
I need to replace my decrepit, blunt rusty old handsaw. It only gets
light use for cutting the odd plank and the like. Looking at B&Q's shelves though, I'm somewhat overwhelmed by the choice. Can someone please advise what would be a good general purpose choice. Can one saw do it all? |
#2
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Advice please on what hand saw to buy
Modern hardpoint ripsaws. Usually under £10
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#3
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Advice please on what hand saw to buy
In message .com,
" writes Modern hardpoint ripsaws. Usually under £10 Umm... I have issues with hardpoint technology. The technique seems limited to lots of teeth per inch and not much by way of set. They also blunt at the first sight of a soft nail and can be over flexible: flapping on the return stroke. In dry, nail free timber they will all do the job provided you are not expecting straight cuts. I am currently using a BAHCO superior 22" in 7 tooth from Screwfix, stiff blade and a touch short of 12 quid so not cheap. This has lasted half a barn rebuild in indifferent Oak so far and still cutting OK. There is still insufficient set to straighten a wandering cut and the teeth don't clear moist sawdust but...... regards -- Tim Lamb |
#4
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Advice please on what hand saw to buy
Tim Lamb wrote: The technique seems limited to lots of teeth per inch and not much by way of set. regards -- Tim Lamb Thanks - pardon my ignorance, but what is meant by "set"? |
#5
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Advice please on what hand saw to buy
Tim Lamb wrote: In message .com, " The OP message that Tim Lamb stupidly snipped was asking for information about the plethora of handsaws available these days. If you want one for very occasional use get the Bacho described below it is the best all around saw of its type. There are jet cut ones with longer teeth that have much more blade area and that tend to over react to the slightest bump and are as susceptible to storage and transit handling as Jacksaws. But if you just want it to remove wood-chip wallpaper -about the only thing I'd ever use one for, they are ideal if you get a short one. After use if you hang it up by the hole in the end of it, the Bahco will last for years. Just give it the occasional spray with WD or something after using on a wet surface. Modern hardpoint ripsaws. Usually under £10 Umm... I have issues with hardpoint technology. The technique seems limited to lots of teeth per inch and not much by way of set. They also blunt at the first sight of a soft nail and can be over flexible: flapping on the return stroke. In dry, nail free timber they will all do the job provided you are not expecting straight cuts. I am currently using a BAHCO superior 22" in 7 tooth from Screwfix, stiff blade and a touch short of 12 quid so not cheap. This has lasted half a barn rebuild in indifferent Oak so far and still cutting OK. There is still insufficient set to straighten a wandering cut and the teeth don't clear moist sawdust but...... The Bahco is an hard point. I agree with you about most other hard points, the Jacks for instance, always come predesigned to run off the line. They only set one tooth in something like 5 and that is the tooth that sits on the rack bracket in the salesroom. Tell me how you would get around a nail with an old fashioned saw. |
#6
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Advice please on what hand saw to buy
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#7
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Advice please on what hand saw to buy
In message . com,
Weatherlawyer writes Tim Lamb wrote: In message .com, " The OP message that Tim Lamb stupidly snipped was asking for information about the plethora of handsaws available these days. Sorry:-) I was just giving my current views on hardpoint saws rather than advice. [more snipping..] Tell me how you would get around a nail with an old fashioned saw. Re-sharpen or be a lot more careful. I suppose my gripe is that bi-metal cutting blades are hardly new technology and could perhaps be incorporated in a saw designed for long life. The issue of tooth design and quality of setting/sharpening may depend more on the target market and price than actual performance in use. regards -- Tim Lamb |
#8
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Advice please on what hand saw to buy
Weatherlawyer wrote: Tell me how you would get around a nail with an old fashioned saw. Nails are soft and a decent saw will cut them without too much damage. If it's a big or a hard one, then remember you're sawing by hand here and it's up to you to notice it and decide whether to plough on ahead through it. Modern screws OTOH are harder, and they really will chew up a saw. I love the idea of a saw for a mere £12... I think my last handsaw was about £70, and that's because I can't afford the Lie-Nielsen I'd really like. |
#9
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Advice please on what hand saw to buy
Weatherlawyer wrote: The OP message that Tim Lamb stupidly snipped was asking for If you're going to throw gratuitous insults around you could at least take the trouble to do so with accuracy. David |
#11
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Advice please on what hand saw to buy
Tim Lamb wrote: I am currently using a BAHCO superior 22" in 7 tooth from Screwfix, stiff blade and a touch short of 12 quid so not cheap. This has lasted half a barn rebuild in indifferent Oak so far and still cutting OK. There is still insufficient set to straighten a wandering cut and the teeth don't clear moist sawdust but...... Having had a look on the shelves this lunch time, 7tpi would seem to be quite an "aggresive" cut. Would I be loking at a higher tpi (say, 15) for getting a really neat finish, albeit requiring extra elbow grease? |
#13
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Advice please on what hand saw to buy
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#14
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Advice please on what hand saw to buy
I am currently using a BAHCO superior 22" in 7 tooth from Screwfix,
stiff blade and a touch short of 12 quid so not cheap. Actually I'm using exactly the same one, after a Stanley jetcut - which is now relegated to the jobs that may result in damaged saw-teeth. The Stanley survived several years of diy and tree-pruning use, and considering they never need attention beyond occassionaly waxing the blade, I consider them excellent value. |
#15
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Advice please on what hand saw to buy
wrote:
Hardpoint teeth are probably the best option. Paying more for a plastic coating is a good idea -- they don't work that much better than a good clean and waxed saw, but they do resist rust better if left in the shed. If you're tempted to get a Japanese-style pull saw for accurate carpentry, then you'll probably find them to be a little weird at first but deliver much better results than you'd had from a tenon saw before. However buy a "traditional" one with a wooden handle (Axminster or Tilgear) rather than a "Shark" or "Bear" with a plastic handle. I haven't yet seen a plastic handled Japanese saw that wasn't a rattling loose fit. I've been using one of these http://www.toolstation.com/shop/HandTools/Saws/d10/sd70 Duo Tricut Saw item 45275 for a while now and its bloody wonderful! Under a £5 + postage of course. -- Dave The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk 01634 717930 07850 597257 |
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