Hi
My Baxi Bermuda boiler fires up ok but then begins to make ping and
rattling noises before shutting off after about 30seconds.

On investigation it would appear that the CH pump has small drip leaks
from what appear to be bleed screws either side of the pump (see pic)


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...man/CHpump.jpg


And the motorised valve on the right on this picture is leaking also


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...yman/valve.jpg


I think but am not sure that the leaking motorised valve is on the HW
system as the HW system still heats up although it is the same on/off
scenario every 30 sec.
Both leaks appear to have reduced since I shut off the feed to the tank

which just out of shot to the right in the pic below.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...n/pipework.jpg


I am also unsure whether draining the tank using the small tap located

bottom right of photo will drain the HW and CH or just HW . can someone

help me to identify what pipes are CH and which HW and if this drain
cock will drain the central heating for me to replace the CH pump?


Cheers bert

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Bawser wrote:

Hi
My Baxi Bermuda boiler fires up ok but then begins to make ping and
rattling noises before shutting off after about 30seconds.

On investigation it would appear that the CH pump has small drip leaks
from what appear to be bleed screws either side of the pump (see pic)


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...man/CHpump.jpg


And the motorised valve on the right on this picture is leaking also


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...yman/valve.jpg


I think but am not sure that the leaking motorised valve is on the HW
system as the HW system still heats up although it is the same on/off
scenario every 30 sec.
Both leaks appear to have reduced since I shut off the feed to the
tank

which just out of shot to the right in the pic below.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...n/pipework.jpg


I am also unsure whether draining the tank using the small tap located

bottom right of photo will drain the HW and CH or just HW . can
someone

help me to identify what pipes are CH and which HW and if this drain
cock will drain the central heating for me to replace the CH pump?


Cheers bert


The leaks obviously need fixing but are not - in themselves - the reason why
the boiler is cutting out. The reason is almost certainly that the pump
isn't working. I'm not familiar with Myson pumps, but there appears to be a
cap on the end which you can unscrew to see whether the shaft is rotating.
The pump appears to be plugged into a 13A socket - which is hardly standard
practice(!). Have you checked whether its fuse is intact?

If the pump *does* need to be changed, you *may* be able to do this without
draining the system. The screws either side of the pump which you thought
were bleed screws are actually service valves. Turning them a quarter of a
turn isolates the pump, allowing the large union nuts to be undone with very
little spillage. I said "may" because the whole lot appears to be pretty
furred up - and may not come apart that easily.

How old is the Baxi Bermuda? Judging by the look of the pipework, I think I
would be saving up for a complete new system!
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

hi

heating engineer for 20 years here

liked your pics

anyway the the valves on the end of pump are for isolation--however
the ones you have are the crapyest on the market--one turn of screw
should isloate but 9 out of 10 they leak--looking at your pump pictures
the top valve is turned off!!!


water leaking ontop of pump will blow it.i would think your pump has
packed up.you can test this bye unscrewing cap and pull out--it should
spin so be carefull

i have never seen that model of danfos motorized valve but usually
therese a lever on it ,,,it should be loose if energised--its unlikely
that both have packed up..

new pump and valves and think about unpgrading your upgrading your
motorized valves---honeywell 2 port valves and grunfoss pump






Bawser wrote:
Hi
My Baxi Bermuda boiler fires up ok but then begins to make ping and
rattling noises before shutting off after about 30seconds.

On investigation it would appear that the CH pump has small drip leaks
from what appear to be bleed screws either side of the pump (see pic)


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...man/CHpump.jpg


And the motorised valve on the right on this picture is leaking also


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...yman/valve.jpg


I think but am not sure that the leaking motorised valve is on the HW
system as the HW system still heats up although it is the same on/off
scenario every 30 sec.
Both leaks appear to have reduced since I shut off the feed to the tank

which just out of shot to the right in the pic below.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...n/pipework.jpg


I am also unsure whether draining the tank using the small tap located

bottom right of photo will drain the HW and CH or just HW . can someone

help me to identify what pipes are CH and which HW and if this drain
cock will drain the central heating for me to replace the CH pump?


Cheers bert

Hi Roger

Thanks for your reply.

Presume if I want to stay dry I remove cap to check the shaft in the
pump is rotating with isolation vales closed?

Had a look inside both the plug and socket and no fuse fitted. This is
a council installation carried out sometime in the early eighties
when the community boiler that supplied piped hot water to the whole
housing estate was closed.

Of course service valves what was I thinking DOH!

Had a corgi plumber look at the system this time last year and he
reckoned the boiler would last another 15 years! So hopefully system is
OK and its just the councils crappy plumbing you don't like the look
of?

Thanks again I'll let you know the outcome of checking the pump shaft
is rotating


marcusb3495 wrote:
anyway the the valves on the end of pump are for isolation--however
the ones you have are the crapyest on the market--one turn of screw
should isloate but 9 out of 10 they leak--looking at your pump pictures
the top valve is turned off!!!

Cheers for your input marcus

The council fitted this system so crap probabIy sums it up. I closed
both isolation valves in an attempt to stem the constant drips from
them. This was after I had tried the CH and discovered it kept
switching off. Haven't tried it again since.

water leaking ontop of pump will blow it.i would think your pump has
packed up.you can test this bye unscrewing cap and pull out--it should
spin so be carefull

These isolation valves appear to have been leaking for some time
causing the furring and rust that is visible.

What do you mean it should spin be careful? Do i have to have the pump
operational to remove the shaft?

i have never seen that model of danfos motorized valve but usually
therese a lever on it ,,,it should be loose if energised--its unlikely
that both have packed up..

Its just the right hand one that is leaking. Think this is the one that
runs into the tank to heat the HW

new pump and valves and think about unpgrading your upgrading your
motorized valves---honeywell 2 port valves and grunfoss pump

I'm in UK if you are too can you recommend a source?

In article . com,
Bawser wrote:
On investigation it would appear that the CH pump has small drip leaks
from what appear to be bleed screws either side of the pump (see pic)


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...man/CHpump.jpg

Just as an aside, looking at that pic, be prepared to change the fittings
either side of the pump as well as the pump (if faulty) as there will
inevitably be severe corrosion between the pump and nuts - indeed you may
not be able to undo them at all, but have to cut them off.

--
*"I am " is reportedly the shortest sentence in the English language. *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Bawser wrote:

Hi Roger

Thanks for your reply.

Presume if I want to stay dry I remove cap to check the shaft in the
pump is rotating with isolation vales closed?

No, you shouldn't run the pump with the valves closed. The shaft is usually
fairly well isolated from the water system, so you'll only get a small
amount of water coming out when you remove the cap.

Had a look inside both the plug and socket and no fuse fitted. This is
a council installation carried out sometime in the early eighties
when the community boiler that supplied piped hot water to the whole
housing estate was closed.

I thought it looked like a 13A square-pin plug in the photo, in which case
it *will* have a fuse in it (unless someone has replaced it with a solid bit
of brass rod!). But maybe it's a round-pin plug - which doesn't have a fuse?

Either way it would be a good idea to check whether you're actually getting
power to the pump by removing the terminal cover and measuring the voltage
between live and neutral with a mains voltmeter (or multimeter set to 250v
AC).


--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

In message .com,
marcusb3495 writes
hi

heating engineer for 20 years here

liked your pics

anyway the the valves on the end of pump are for isolation--however
the ones you have are the crapyest on the market--one turn of screw
should isloate but 9 out of 10 they leak--looking at your pump pictures
the top valve is turned off!!!


water leaking ontop of pump will blow it.i would think your pump has
packed up.you can test this bye unscrewing cap and pull out--it should
spin so be carefull

i have never seen that model of danfos motorized valve but usually
therese a lever on it

ITYF it's a rebadged Honeywell

--
geoff

grunfoss pumps and honeywell trvs you can get from any plumbing heating
murchants ie plumb center

both of which are proberly the best selling

its difficult to explain about myson pumps but it can be occasionally
like holding the end of a drill with a hexagon cap on it!!!
myson pumps are generaly £10 less than grunfoss pumps
and from my experience are not as powerfull..





Bawser wrote:
Hi Roger

Thanks for your reply.

Presume if I want to stay dry I remove cap to check the shaft in the
pump is rotating with isolation vales closed?

Had a look inside both the plug and socket and no fuse fitted. This is
a council installation carried out sometime in the early eighties
when the community boiler that supplied piped hot water to the whole
housing estate was closed.

Of course service valves what was I thinking DOH!

Had a corgi plumber look at the system this time last year and he
reckoned the boiler would last another 15 years! So hopefully system is
OK and its just the councils crappy plumbing you don't like the look
of?

Thanks again I'll let you know the outcome of checking the pump shaft
is rotating


marcusb3495 wrote:
anyway the the valves on the end of pump are for isolation--however
the ones you have are the crapyest on the market--one turn of screw
should isloate but 9 out of 10 they leak--looking at your pump pictures
the top valve is turned off!!!

Cheers for your input marcus

The council fitted this system so crap probabIy sums it up. I closed
both isolation valves in an attempt to stem the constant drips from
them. This was after I had tried the CH and discovered it kept
switching off. Haven't tried it again since.

water leaking ontop of pump will blow it.i would think your pump has
packed up.you can test this bye unscrewing cap and pull out--it should
spin so be carefull

These isolation valves appear to have been leaking for some time
causing the furring and rust that is visible.

What do you mean it should spin be careful? Do i have to have the pump
operational to remove the shaft?

i have never seen that model of danfos motorized valve but usually
therese a lever on it ,,,it should be loose if energised--its unlikely
that both have packed up..

Its just the right hand one that is leaking. Think this is the one that
runs into the tank to heat the HW

new pump and valves and think about unpgrading your upgrading your
motorized valves---honeywell 2 port valves and grunfoss pump

I'm in UK if you are too can you recommend a source?

raden

whats ityf?








raden wrote:
In message .com,
marcusb3495 writes
hi

heating engineer for 20 years here

liked your pics

anyway the the valves on the end of pump are for isolation--however
the ones you have are the crapyest on the market--one turn of screw
should isloate but 9 out of 10 they leak--looking at your pump pictures
the top valve is turned off!!!


water leaking ontop of pump will blow it.i would think your pump has
packed up.you can test this bye unscrewing cap and pull out--it should
spin so be carefull

i have never seen that model of danfos motorized valve but usually
therese a lever on it

ITYF it's a rebadged Honeywell

--
geoff

In message .com,
marcusb3495 writes
grunfoss pumps and honeywell trvs you can get from any plumbing heating
murchants ie plumb center

both of which are proberly the best selling

its difficult to explain about myson pumps but it can be occasionally
like holding the end of a drill with a hexagon cap on it!!!
myson pumps are generaly £10 less than grunfoss pumps
and from my experience are not as powerfull..

Marcus ... how would you like to follow convention and not top post

It helps the world make sense






Bawser wrote:
Hi Roger


.... ...


Its just the right hand one that is leaking. Think this is the one that
runs into the tank to heat the HW

new pump and valves and think about unpgrading your upgrading your
motorized valves---honeywell 2 port valves and grunfoss pump

I'm in UK if you are too can you recommend a source?


--
geoff

In message . com,
marcusb3495 writes
raden

whats ityf?


"I Think You'll Find"



raden wrote:
In message .com,
marcusb3495 writes
hi

heating engineer for 20 years here

liked your pics

anyway the the valves on the end of pump are for isolation--however
the ones you have are the crapyest on the market--one turn of screw
should isloate but 9 out of 10 they leak--looking at your pump pictures
the top valve is turned off!!!


water leaking ontop of pump will blow it.i would think your pump has
packed up.you can test this bye unscrewing cap and pull out--it should
spin so be carefull

i have never seen that model of danfos motorized valve but usually
therese a lever on it

ITYF it's a rebadged Honeywell

--
geoff


--
geoff

if you mean danfoss are rebadged honeywells

niamy--((-never in a million years))



On Nov 1, 10:13 pm, raden wrote:
In message . com,
marcusb3495 writes

raden

whats ityf?"I Think You'll Find"





raden wrote:
In message .com,
marcusb3495 writes
hi

heating engineer for 20 years here

liked your pics

anyway the the valves on the end of pump are for isolation--however
the ones you have are the crapyest on the market--one turn of screw
should isloate but 9 out of 10 they leak--looking at your pump pictures
the top valve is turned off!!!

water leaking ontop of pump will blow it.i would think your pump has
packed up.you can test this bye unscrewing cap and pull out--it should
spin so be carefull

i have never seen that model of danfos motorized valve but usually
therese a lever on it

ITYF it's a rebadged Honeywell

--
geoff--
geoff

In message .com,
marcusb3495 writes
if you mean danfoss are rebadged honeywells

No, I mean that's a rebadged honeywell actuator head

niamy--((-never in a million years))



On Nov 1, 10:13 pm, raden wrote:
In message . com,
marcusb3495 writes

raden

whats ityf?"I Think You'll Find"



--
geoff

Tried to remove 10mm bolt from centre of pump and although it loosened
and exposed the 3 or four turns of thread that hold it in place I
couldn't withdraw it? It felt loose and there was some side to side
movement but it just wouldn't withdraw.. I kept turning it with the
spanner incase there were other threads further down the shank of the
bolt but it didn't appear to move any more?

Thought I might be able to feel or hear pump working, but even
listening through a screwdriver all I could hear was a slight buzz like
perhaps it was getting current but jammed or not turning....Should I be
able to hear more than this?

I eventually found a mainstester and voltage is reaching the pump
although when I removed the cover on the pump terminals the earth was
out, putting it back in made no difference though

I opened up the isolation valves on the pump and turned then turned the
controls to constant heat and left it to see what would happen the
sytem fires up runs 30 sec then shutsdown, 15-20 minutes later it does
the same thing and repeats roughly at the same intervals.

The pump and the pipes either side of it got HOT could this happen if
pump not turning?

Thanks for your continued help

Bert

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Bawser wrote:


I opened up the isolation valves on the pump and turned then turned
the controls to constant heat and left it to see what would happen the
sytem fires up runs 30 sec then shutsdown, 15-20 minutes later it does
the same thing and repeats roughly at the same intervals.

The pump and the pipes either side of it got HOT could this happen if
pump not turning?

Thanks for your continued help

Bert

How far is the pump from the boiler? Was all of the pipe joining the pump to
the boiler hot, or just a short section either side of the pump?

If the former - particularly if the pipe is fairly short - it's probably
just conduction and single pipe convection bringing heat from the boiler. If
the latter, the electrical energy being dissipated in the pump is being
converted to heat. Either can happen without the pump actually turning.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Roger Mills wrote:
How far is the pump from the boiler? Was all of the pipe joining the pump to
the boiler hot, or just a short section either side of the pump?

If the former - particularly if the pipe is fairly short - it's probably
just conduction and single pipe convection bringing heat from the boiler. If
the latter, the electrical energy being dissipated in the pump is being
converted to heat. Either can happen without the pump actually turning.

Hi Roger

Yup the pump is only about 5 foot or so from the boiler which is just
through the wall on the left in this pic

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...n/pipework.jpg

So probably just down to conduction then.

What about not being able to withdraw the centre bolt on the pump to
check if shaft is rotating, am I doing something wrong here? should I
use more force?

Cheers

Bert

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Bawser wrote:


Yup the pump is only about 5 foot or so from the boiler which is just
through the wall on the left in this pic

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...n/pipework.jpg

So probably just down to conduction then.


Sounds like it.


What about not being able to withdraw the centre bolt on the pump to
check if shaft is rotating, am I doing something wrong here? should I
use more force?


I don't honestly know. All my pumps have had an end cap which could be
removed - allowing the end of the shaft to be observed rotating (or not) and
allowing the shaft to be turned with a screwdriver to free it, if jammed.
But yours doesn't look quite the same!
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
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monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

look

the very minium your system needs are new pump and valves...
if i saw that that the first thing i would do..
i am not a diy er

sounds like most deffinate your pump is had it and even if it not--how
much water can it take dripping on to it and being a cheapish pump

now i would think a half decent diyer could undertake a pump and valves
but i pretty sure if not certain that filling up would be a diy ers
down fall...do not think that you could just fill back up and vent the
rads as thats not always the case

parts £55










Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Bawser wrote:


Yup the pump is only about 5 foot or so from the boiler which is just
through the wall on the left in this pic

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...n/pipework.jpg

So probably just down to conduction then.


Sounds like it.


What about not being able to withdraw the centre bolt on the pump to
check if shaft is rotating, am I doing something wrong here? should I
use more force?


I don't honestly know. All my pumps have had an end cap which could be
removed - allowing the end of the shaft to be observed rotating (or not) and
allowing the shaft to be turned with a screwdriver to free it, if jammed.
But yours doesn't look quite the same!
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

marcusb3495 wrote:
now i would think a half decent diyer could undertake a pump and valves
but i pretty sure if not certain that filling up would be a diy ers
down fall...do not think that you could just fill back up and vent the
rads as thats not always the case

parts £55

I have no doubt I could fit the pump and the valves......But my first
problem is that this property is a flat and I have no idea how shut off
the feed to the CH or how to drain the system down
But as the pump is one of the highest points of the system perhaps I
wouldn't need to drain it too much?

I have had most of the radiators off before for decorating (the walls
not the rads and flushed the 'tar' out of them at the same time
NEVER had to refill the system after that and NO air in radiators which
were all toastie hot after refitting.

Looking at the pic again do you think I might get away with freezing
the pipework before the pump while I fit new valves? and if the
motorised valves are shut there should not be too much water flowing
back especially as the bottom of the pump is about as high as the top
of any radiator.

Can anyone tell me what the thing before the motorised valves on the
pipe joining to the boiler return pipe is?

And is that other pipe coming off the return from the water tank to the
boiler the return pipe from the radiators?

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...n/pipework.jpg

Cheers

Bert

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Bawser wrote:

marcusb3495 wrote:
now i would think a half decent diyer could undertake a pump and
valves but i pretty sure if not certain that filling up would be a
diy ers down fall...do not think that you could just fill back up
and vent the rads as thats not always the case

parts £55

I have no doubt I could fit the pump and the valves......But my first
problem is that this property is a flat and I have no idea how shut
off the feed to the CH or how to drain the system down
But as the pump is one of the highest points of the system perhaps I
wouldn't need to drain it too much?

I have had most of the radiators off before for decorating (the walls
not the rads and flushed the 'tar' out of them at the same time
NEVER had to refill the system after that and NO air in radiators
which were all toastie hot after refitting.

Looking at the pic again do you think I might get away with freezing
the pipework before the pump while I fit new valves? and if the
motorised valves are shut there should not be too much water flowing
back especially as the bottom of the pump is about as high as the top
of any radiator.

Can anyone tell me what the thing before the motorised valves on the
pipe joining to the boiler return pipe is?

And is that other pipe coming off the return from the water tank to
the boiler the return pipe from the radiators?

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...n/pipework.jpg

Cheers

Bert

That picture again! I'm still trying to work out whether it's *one* photo or
*two*! Is it two separate shots, imperfectly stitched together to cover a
bigger subject than you could do with just one? Is that cylindrical tank
connected just above the pump, as it appears in the photo(s)?

The thing to the left of the motorised valves is an automatic by-pass valve,
which opens to provide a flow path during pump over-run conditions, even
when both motorised valves are closed.

Hot water comes up the flow pipe from the boiler, and down into the pump.
Immediately after the pump, it splits into 3 circuits - the by-pass (very
short), the CH (through the LH motorised valve) and the HW (through the RH
motorised valve). The output end of each of the circuits is connected into
the boiler return pipe - which is the horizontal pipe, just above floor
level with a red-handled gate valve in it.

The HW circuit goes from the RH motorised valve into the top of the coil in
the HW cylinder, out of the bottom of the coil and into the RH end of the
return pipe. The CH circuit goes from the LH motorised valve, down through
the floor to the radiators, and re-appears back up through the floor to tee
into the return pipe. The outlet from the by-pass circuit connects directly
into the return pipe.

Now to removing the pump . . With the motorised valve and by-pass valve all
closed, no water should be able to flow upwards to the bottom of the pump.
As you say, the pump is quite high up - so you only need to drain down as
far as that. Ordinarily, I would say find the F&E tank, and block off its
outlet and its vent pipe - and you won't spill much water. But I'm not sure
where your F&E tank is. That copper cylinder is in more or less the right
place, but doesn't have a visible vent pipe - and doesn't look the part - so
I'm confused. Please anwer the question posed above about the parentage of
the photo!
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
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monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Roger Mills wrote:
That picture again! I'm still trying to work out whether it's *one* photo or
*two*! Is it two separate shots, imperfectly stitched together to cover a
bigger subject than you could do with just one? Is that cylindrical tank
connected just above the pump, as it appears in the photo(s)?

Sorry I thought it was obvious that these photos show the pipes
joining, perhaps just because I can see the real thing . But yes they
are connected. Anyhow a picture speaks a thousand words so here is
another view with the pump just out of shot below.

is that vertical pipe on the left the feed to my HW taps (down) and
overflow (up)?

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...coppertank.jpg

and here is another pic of the pump with the centre bolt undone as
loose as it would go. With the system on and this undone I could hear
some air escaping from it. Could it just be to bleed the pump of air?

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...waterpump3.jpg

Cheers for your time Rodger

Bert

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Bawser wrote:


is that vertical pipe on the left the feed to my HW taps (down) and
overflow (up)?

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...coppertank.jpg

I presume that there's a cold header tank for the HW system above the
ceiling? In that case, the white pipe going up is the vent pipe, and will
curl over the top of the header tank. There will also be a cold feed (not
visible in your photos) from the bottom of the header tank into the bottom
of the 42x18 cylinder. The pipe coming out of the top of the 42x18 cylinder
and going downwards is indeed the feed to the hot taps. Does it go *behind*
that funny little copper cylinder, or does it join into it? (From the photo
it looks as if it may join in). I'm still totally mystified as what that
cylinder is!


and here is another pic of the pump with the centre bolt undone as
loose as it would go. With the system on and this undone I could hear
some air escaping from it. Could it just be to bleed the pump of air?

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...waterpump3.jpg

Well it's certainly for that, but I would also expect to be able to see the
shaft when you undo it.


--
Cheers,
Roger [Note: there's no 'd' in Roger!]
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Roger Mills wrote:
I presume that there's a cold header tank for the HW system above the
ceiling? In that case, the white pipe going up is the vent pipe, and will
curl over the top of the header tank.

Well there is a tank in the attic of the stairwell and the vertical
pipes visible on the left side of the initial photo run 5' up through
the ceiling then bend through 90' and run another 12' (to the right of
the 42 x 18 cylinder) through the wall above the stairs so i presume
they run to that tank


There will also be a cold feed (not
visible in your photos) from the bottom of the header tank into the bottomof the 42x18 cylinder

The cold feed to the 42 x 18 tank is the painted pipe on the left bent
over with the large gate valve on itwhich is in the foreground in
original photo.


. The pipe coming out of the top of the 42x18 cylinder
and going downwards is indeed the feed to the hot taps. Does it go *behind*
that funny little copper cylinder, or does it join into it? (From the photo
it looks as if it may join in).

It joins it as do all the other pipes that appear to.



I'm still totally mystified as what that
cylinder is!

I just presumed it was some kind of expansion tank?


Well it's certainly for that, but I would also expect to be able to see the
shaft when you undo it.

Wont undo any further than in photo

Cheers,
Roger [Note: there's no 'd' in Roger!]

Sorry bout that Roger

and thanks for the help

Just thought I'd add a note about the problems I encountered replacing
my pump.

The pump valve to pump connections were so seized with rust that they
just wouldn't undo.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...pumpvalves.jpg

So I had to undo the nut of the compression joint at the other end of
the pump valves and try to pull the pump and valves still connected
right off the pipes. But as there was no give in the pipes I had to
split most of the compession joints on the surrounding pipework in
order to create enough give.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...erpumpgone.jpg

and even here

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...disconnect.jpg

Apparently the system has a primatic cylinder which allowed me to drain
the CH while emptying the cylinder using drain cock (lower right in the
waterpumpgone.jpg above)

Then had to refit pump the same way as space between valves for pump
was too tight to allow me to fit seals. So ended up using same ball
type pump valves as gate valves were about an inch longer and was
struggling to spread pipes as it was. Anyhow fitted cheapo Europa pump
which works 10 times better than the one it replaced.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...terpumpnew.jpg


Thanks for your help

In article . com,
Bawser wrote:
Just thought I'd add a note about the problems I encountered replacing
my pump.

The pump valve to pump connections were so seized with rust that they
just wouldn't undo.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...pumpvalves.jpg

So I had to undo the nut of the compression joint at the other end of
the pump valves and try to pull the pump and valves still connected
right off the pipes. But as there was no give in the pipes I had to
split most of the compession joints on the surrounding pipework in
order to create enough give.

The pump connectors are a face to face type so the pipes don't need to be
'sprung' to remove. So you'd have been best to cut through those nuts and
split off the fitting. Then replacing the fittings would be easier.

--
*It ain't the size, it's... er... no, it IS ..the size.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The pump connectors are a face to face type so the pipes don't need to be
'sprung' to remove. So you'd have been best to cut through those nuts and
split off the fitting. Then replacing the fittings would be easier.


Dave cutting through the valves that was my other thought.
I thought that I would be able to fit the new pump to the pump valves
in the gap easily coz they're face to face like you say but after
removing the old pump and valves I reconnected all the compression
joints and fitted pump valves to discover that I could get the pump in
but not pump and seals. So took it all apart again

Anyhow pump works well just a case of draining it all again to fit new
motorised valve

Regards

Bert

In article .com,
Bawser wrote:
The pump connectors are a face to face type so the pipes don't need to
be 'sprung' to remove. So you'd have been best to cut through those
nuts and split off the fitting. Then replacing the fittings would be
easier.


Dave cutting through the valves that was my other thought.
I thought that I would be able to fit the new pump to the pump valves
in the gap easily coz they're face to face like you say but after
removing the old pump and valves I reconnected all the compression
joints and fitted pump valves to discover that I could get the pump in
but not pump and seals. So took it all apart again

When mine did much the same I discovered the new pump (same make) and
valves weren't the same length as the originals, so I'd to alter the
pipework.

Anyhow pump works well just a case of draining it all again to fit new
motorised valve

Same happened to me with that - again the same make. ;-( They were over 20
years old, though.

--
*Can fat people go skinny-dipping?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.