Re my previous post about my Immersion heater failing to heat and my getting the
wrong item from www.bes.co.uk.which they have now replaced letting me keep the
"wrong" item . I replaced the thermostat from it in to the exisiting immerser
which I thought was the problem but still the water didn't heat so I have just
installed the replacement immerser I got today and it appears to be working fine
... .
I now have the old immersion heater sans thermostat which I binned .I also have
the other immerser with thermostat .

Is there a way of testing immersers/thermostats other than fiting them and
seeing if they work ( if they do not you still have the problem of knowing if it
is the thermo or the heater that is faulty)

Someone mentioned using a multimeter but can someone explain exactly how you do
that please .I'd like to know out of interest if for no other reason .
thx
Stuart

Stuart wrote:

Re my previous post about my Immersion heater failing to heat and my getting the
wrong item from www.bes.co.uk.which they have now replaced letting me keep the
"wrong" item . I replaced the thermostat from it in to the exisiting immerser
which I thought was the problem but still the water didn't heat so I have just
installed the replacement immerser I got today and it appears to be working fine
.. .
I now have the old immersion heater sans thermostat which I binned .I also have
the other immerser with thermostat .

Is there a way of testing immersers/thermostats other than fiting them and
seeing if they work ( if they do not you still have the problem of knowing if it
is the thermo or the heater that is faulty)

Someone mentioned using a multimeter but can someone explain exactly how you do
that please .I'd like to know out of interest if for no other reason .
thx
Stuart

Immersion heater: test resistance between the 2 mains Terminals, and
from terminals to Casing. T-C should be open circuit, any significant
conductoin and its liable to blow fuses or rcd. T-T should be 20 ohms
for a 3kW element, higher for lower power elements. If R is much higher
its faulty.

Thermostat: the 2 terminals should be shorted at room temp, and should
go open when probe stuck into boiling water.


NT

Stuart wrote:

Re my previous post about my Immersion heater failing to heat and my getting the
wrong item from www.bes.co.uk.which they have now replaced letting me keep the
"wrong" item . I replaced the thermostat from it in to the exisiting immerser
which I thought was the problem but still the water didn't heat so I have just
installed the replacement immerser I got today and it appears to be working fine
.. .
I now have the old immersion heater sans thermostat which I binned .I also have
the other immerser with thermostat .

Is there a way of testing immersers/thermostats other than fiting them and
seeing if they work ( if they do not you still have the problem of knowing if it
is the thermo or the heater that is faulty)

Someone mentioned using a multimeter but can someone explain exactly how you do
that please .I'd like to know out of interest if for no other reason .
thx
Stuart

Immersion heater: test resistance between the 2 mains Terminals, and
from terminals to Casing. T-C should be open circuit, any significant
conductoin and its liable to blow fuses or rcd. T-T should be 20 ohms
for a 3kW element, higher for lower power elements. If R is much higher
its faulty.

Thermostat: the 2 terminals should be shorted at room temp, and should
go open when probe stuck into boiling water.


NT

On 12 Oct 2006 16:21:37 -0700, wrote:

Stuart wrote:

Re my previous post about my Immersion heater failing to heat and my getting the
wrong item from www.bes.co.uk.which they have now replaced letting me keep the
"wrong" item . I replaced the thermostat from it in to the exisiting immerser
which I thought was the problem but still the water didn't heat so I have just
installed the replacement immerser I got today and it appears to be working fine
.. .
I now have the old immersion heater sans thermostat which I binned .I also have
the other immerser with thermostat .

Is there a way of testing immersers/thermostats other than fiting them and
seeing if they work ( if they do not you still have the problem of knowing if it
is the thermo or the heater that is faulty)

Someone mentioned using a multimeter but can someone explain exactly how you do
that please .I'd like to know out of interest if for no other reason .
thx
Stuart

Immersion heater: test resistance between the 2 mains Terminals, and
from terminals to Casing. T-C should be open circuit, any significant
conductoin and its liable to blow fuses or rcd. T-T should be 20 ohms
for a 3kW element, higher for lower power elements. If R is much higher
its faulty.

Thermostat: the 2 terminals should be shorted at room temp, and should
go open when probe stuck into boiling water.


NT

Thx NT ...I've now got myself a DMM and will check them to see if they are
working .I've been meaning to get a DMM for a while anyway.I'm sure it will come
in useful .


Stuart m

In message , Stuart
writes
On 12 Oct 2006 16:21:37 -0700, wrote:

Immersion heater: test resistance between the 2 mains Terminals, and
from terminals to Casing. T-C should be open circuit, any significant
conductoin and its liable to blow fuses or rcd. T-T should be 20 ohms
for a 3kW element, higher for lower power elements. If R is much higher
its faulty.

Thermostat: the 2 terminals should be shorted at room temp, and should
go open when probe stuck into boiling water.


NT

Thx NT ...I've now got myself a DMM and will check them to see if they are
working .I've been meaning to get a DMM for a while anyway.I'm sure it
will come
in useful .

My daughter (totally untrained electrically speaking) fixed her
immersion heater by finding and pressing an internal reset button.

Probably not inherited DIY knowledge but deeply ingrained reluctance to
pay for expert help:-)

regards

--
Tim Lamb

On Sat, 14 Oct 2006 21:27:58 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

In message , Stuart
writes
On 12 Oct 2006 16:21:37 -0700, wrote:

Immersion heater: test resistance between the 2 mains Terminals, and
from terminals to Casing. T-C should be open circuit, any significant
conductoin and its liable to blow fuses or rcd. T-T should be 20 ohms
for a 3kW element, higher for lower power elements. If R is much higher
its faulty.

Thermostat: the 2 terminals should be shorted at room temp, and should
go open when probe stuck into boiling water.


NT

Thx NT ...I've now got myself a DMM and will check them to see if they are
working .I've been meaning to get a DMM for a while anyway.I'm sure it
will come
in useful .

My daughter (totally untrained electrically speaking) fixed her
immersion heater by finding and pressing an internal reset button.

Probably not inherited DIY knowledge but deeply ingrained reluctance to
pay for expert help:-)

regards

Yes.Modern thermostats do have a cutout button on top which protrudes when
activated .
It is a very small button if you are looking for it .


Stuart