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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Window reveals
Hi.
I've had upvc double glazing installed last week and opted to finish the inside 'reveals' myself. The only choice they were giving me was upvc fascias and mouldings. Which I didn't want. So I have some large spaces to cover prior to skimming. I will be using battens, off-cuts, and some 4" bull-nose skirting I have no use for. Also, using lots of foam to fill these spaces So, what thickness of plaster-board should I use? Any other tips will be welcome. Thanks. Arthur |
#2
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Window reveals
"51" wrote:
Hi. I've had upvc double glazing installed last week and opted to finish the inside 'reveals' myself. The only choice they were giving me was upvc fascias and mouldings. Which I didn't want. So I have some large spaces to cover prior to skimming. I will be using battens, off-cuts, and some 4" bull-nose skirting I have no use for. Also, using lots of foam to fill these spaces So, what thickness of plaster-board should I use? Any other tips will be welcome. Thanks. Arthur Foam in the spaces? Do you mean the gaps between the new window frames and the brickwork? If so, I am surprised that the DG fitters didn't do this. Assuming the reveals were plaster over brick, and the plaster in the reveals is about an inch thick, and lumps of one inch thick plaster are missing, I can't see why you would need wooden battens and plasterboard to make good. Can't you just use base coat plaster then skim over, or hire a plasterer? |
#3
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Window reveals
Codswallop wrote:
"51" wrote: Hi. I've had upvc double glazing installed last week and opted to finish the inside 'reveals' myself. The only choice they were giving me was upvc fascias and mouldings. Which I didn't want. So I have some large spaces to cover prior to skimming. I will be using battens, off-cuts, and some 4" bull-nose skirting I have no use for. Also, using lots of foam to fill these spaces So, what thickness of plaster-board should I use? Any other tips will be welcome. Thanks. Arthur Foam in the spaces? Do you mean the gaps between the new window frames and the brickwork? If so, I am surprised that the DG fitters didn't do this. Assuming the reveals were plaster over brick, and the plaster in the reveals is about an inch thick, and lumps of one inch thick plaster are missing, I can't see why you would need wooden battens and plasterboard to make good. Can't you just use base coat plaster then skim over, or hire a plasterer? sounds more like my case - the old windows were box sash and the 'box' part left a larger space than the new frames on the outer course of bricks. i put 3x4 timbers in mine, packed out to the correct spacing using snapped off bits of old hardboard until it left just enough depth to put 12mm plasterboard in place before skimming Chris -- http://tinyurl.com/hhlr |
#4
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Window reveals
"Codswallop" wrote in message ... "51" wrote: Hi. I've had upvc double glazing installed last week and opted to finish the inside 'reveals' myself. The only choice they were giving me was upvc fascias and mouldings. Which I didn't want. So I have some large spaces to cover prior to skimming. I will be using battens, off-cuts, and some 4" bull-nose skirting I have no use for. Also, using lots of foam to fill these spaces So, what thickness of plaster-board should I use? Any other tips will be welcome. Thanks. Arthur Foam in the spaces? Do you mean the gaps between the new window frames and the brickwork? If so, I am surprised that the DG fitters didn't do this. Assuming the reveals were plaster over brick, and the plaster in the reveals is about an inch thick, and lumps of one inch thick plaster are missing, I can't see why you would need wooden battens and plasterboard to make good. Can't you just use base coat plaster then skim over, or hire a plasterer? The sides and top edge were boxed in with plywood and architrave and these concealed the spaces. The window company offered only similair with upvc which I wanted to avoid. The window fitters did use an adhesive type foam on all window edges. They also used this foam as the only means of securing the upvc internal window sills. Do you think this is adequate because I have often stood on window sills to put curtains up. Arthur |
#5
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Window reveals
"51" wrote:
The sides and top edge were boxed in with plywood and architrave and these concealed the spaces. The window company offered only similair with upvc which I wanted to avoid. The window fitters did use an adhesive type foam on all window edges. Regarding your previous question about what thickness of plasterboard to use, as far as I know there isn't a choice, you adjust the thickness of the supporting woodwork to suit. They also used this foam as the only means of securing the upvc internal window sills. Do you think this is adequate because I have often stood on window sills to put curtains up. Arthur That is the usual method of fixing internal window sills. As they are not solid upvc, but foam filled, they can get damaged. So I would recommend not standing on them. A step ladder would be safer and a good investment. |
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