Can anyone recommend a decnet drill, that is able to cope with green oak,
and auger drilling to 32mm x 450mm long. All the drills I own are fantastic
for concrete and we have never been beaten yet, but when drilling oak the
safety clutches kick in and then drill no more.

TIA

Steve

On 2006-08-20 08:08:44 +0100, "Stephen Dawson"
said:

Can anyone recommend a decnet drill,

Have you tried emailing HP? I believe they own that technology these days.



that is able to cope with green oak, and auger drilling to 32mm x 450mm
long. All the drills I own are fantastic for concrete and we have never
been beaten yet, but when drilling oak the safety clutches kick in and
then drill no more.

TIA

Steve

I believe that a low rev., high torque machine is needed here.


Have a look at Metabo B7532 as an example. Most of the manufacturers
seem to have something like this.

Stephen Dawson wrote:
Can anyone recommend a decnet drill, that is able to cope with green oak,
and auger drilling to 32mm x 450mm long. All the drills I own are fantastic
for concrete and we have never been beaten yet, but when drilling oak the
safety clutches kick in and then drill no more.

TIA

Steve



This might actually be an application where a hand brace and auger may
be a more economic choice - this is what Granddad would have used. A
power drill with sufficient torque is going to be big and beefy, and
expensive.

R.

"Richard Downing" wrote in message
news
Stephen Dawson wrote:
Can anyone recommend a decnet drill, that is able to cope with green oak,
and auger drilling to 32mm x 450mm long. All the drills I own are
fantastic
for concrete and we have never been beaten yet, but when drilling oak the
safety clutches kick in and then drill no more.

TIA

Steve



This might actually be an application where a hand brace and auger may
be a more economic choice - this is what Granddad would have used. A
power drill with sufficient torque is going to be big and beefy, and
expensive.

R.

Expense is not really an issue, a hand brace would take too long as the last
job we did we had too drill well over a hundred 25mm holes.

Stephen Dawson wrote:
"Richard Downing" wrote in message
news
Stephen Dawson wrote:
Can anyone recommend a decnet drill, that is able to cope with
green oak, and auger drilling to 32mm x 450mm long. All the drills
I own are fantastic
for concrete and we have never been beaten yet, but when drilling
oak the safety clutches kick in and then drill no more.

TIA

Steve



This might actually be an application where a hand brace and auger
may be a more economic choice - this is what Granddad would have
used. A power drill with sufficient torque is going to be big and
beefy, and expensive.

R.

Expense is not really an issue, a hand brace would take too long as
the last job we did we had too drill well over a hundred 25mm holes.

So give people a ball park firgure to work to? I'm thinking 110v with drop
down box would be more suited ie industrial.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

"The3rd Earl Of Derby" wrote in message
k...
Stephen Dawson wrote:
"Richard Downing" wrote in message
news
Stephen Dawson wrote:
Can anyone recommend a decnet drill, that is able to cope with
green oak, and auger drilling to 32mm x 450mm long. All the drills
I own are fantastic
for concrete and we have never been beaten yet, but when drilling
oak the safety clutches kick in and then drill no more.

TIA

Steve



This might actually be an application where a hand brace and auger
may be a more economic choice - this is what Granddad would have
used. A power drill with sufficient torque is going to be big and
beefy, and expensive.

R.

Expense is not really an issue, a hand brace would take too long as
the last job we did we had too drill well over a hundred 25mm holes.

So give people a ball park firgure to work to? I'm thinking 110v with drop
down box would be more suited ie industrial.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite




As I said, price is not really an issue for the right piece of kit, we have
aldready had four 24V cordless unit replaced or repaired by Hilti that
should have done the job, but wern't up to it. I am looking for something
reliable and with longevity.

I have been looking at the Makita range, but will probably wait for a tool
fair to have a look and try one. Might take a piece of oak with me so we can
try before buying :-)

Stephen Dawson wrote:
"The3rd Earl Of Derby" wrote in message
k...
Stephen Dawson wrote:
"Richard Downing" wrote in message
news Stephen Dawson wrote:
Can anyone recommend a decnet drill, that is able to cope with
green oak, and auger drilling to 32mm x 450mm long. All the drills
I own are fantastic
for concrete and we have never been beaten yet, but when drilling
oak the safety clutches kick in and then drill no more.

TIA

Steve



This might actually be an application where a hand brace and auger
may be a more economic choice - this is what Granddad would have
used. A power drill with sufficient torque is going to be big and
beefy, and expensive.

R.

Expense is not really an issue, a hand brace would take too long as
the last job we did we had too drill well over a hundred 25mm holes.

So give people a ball park firgure to work to? I'm thinking 110v
with drop down box would be more suited ie industrial.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite




As I said, price is not really an issue for the right piece of kit,
we have aldready had four 24V cordless unit replaced or repaired by
Hilti that should have done the job, but wern't up to it. I am
looking for something reliable and with longevity.

I have been looking at the Makita range, but will probably wait for a
tool fair to have a look and try one. Might take a piece of oak with
me so we can try before buying :-)

He's turned the light on here, I think?

So you want a cordless type?

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Stephen Dawson wrote:

Can anyone recommend a decent drill, that is able to cope with green oak,
and auger drilling to 32mm x 450mm long. When drilling oak the safety clutches
kick in and then drill no more.

Expense is not really an issue, a hand brace would take too long as the last
job we did we had too drill well over a hundred 25mm holes.

The best thing is a chain moticer. But the things cut rectangles. You
need the auger to clear the bore so a slow speed might be a better
option than a powerful drill. Also the fiber in the timber is very
ungiving so the augers need to be absolutely, perfectly sharp.

What sort of drills are you thinking of? If you are making gates or
fencing, a square cutting implement would be best suited anyway. A
chain needs to be firmly clamped and that is the most onerous side to
the use of a portable morticer.

If you can get hold of a second hand morticing machine of course then
you will find the job a doddle. But they usually require 3 phase
lekkie. Which makes them fairly cheap to buy but hideously expensive to
set up -unless you fancy changing the motor.

I have no idea how a router would behave. Another thing I would try is
a pilot hole. You may have tried that but failed to mention it. I would
like to know what you have tried.

Weatherlawyer wrote:
Stephen Dawson wrote:

Can anyone recommend a decent drill, that is able to cope with green oak,
and auger drilling to 32mm x 450mm long. When drilling oak the safety clutches
kick in and then drill no more.

Expense is not really an issue, a hand brace would take too long as the last
job we did we had too drill well over a hundred 25mm holes.

I have no idea how a router would behave. Another thing I would try is
a pilot hole. You may have tried that but failed to mention it. I would
like to know what you have tried.

a pilot hole with an auger? I hope thats not what you meant

NT

wrote:
a pilot hole with an auger? I hope thats not what you meant

Quite straightforeward. You either start the hole with the largest
drill or use a blank piece to fit over the work once you have drilled
out the complete order with a 1/4 inch bit.

I don't know if it will work with regard to the original problem but
the problem of the auger wabbling is easily solved by the above method.
The blank won't last all that long but it would be quicker than
drilling the order through thrice.

In article ,
Richard Downing wrote:
This might actually be an application where a hand brace and auger may
be a more economic choice - this is what Granddad would have used. A
power drill with sufficient torque is going to be big and beefy, and
expensive.

Not really - just suitably geared if all it has to do is match the torque
and RPM of a hand brace.

--
* I like you. You remind me of when I was young and stupid

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

The message
from Richard Downing contains these words:

This might actually be an application where a hand brace and auger may
be a more economic choice - this is what Granddad would have used. A
power drill with sufficient torque is going to be big and beefy, and
expensive.

You can get wood augers for SDS drills. Even the cheapy SDS drills are
pretty well unstopable - though you might wish they weren't! A long
torque-bar on the side would help - not hard to lash one up - or on.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

Guy King wrote:
The message
from Richard Downing contains these words:

This might actually be an application where a hand brace and auger
may be a more economic choice - this is what Granddad would have
used. A power drill with sufficient torque is going to be big and
beefy, and expensive.

You can get wood augers for SDS drills. Even the cheapy SDS drills are
pretty well unstopable - though you might wish they weren't! A long
torque-bar on the side would help - not hard to lash one up - or on.

Good point about the torque bar. My Wickes jobby has a bar abot 16" long
and you really do need it!


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The message
from "The Medway Handyman" contains
these words:

Good point about the torque bar. My Wickes jobby has a bar abot 16" long
and you really do need it!

If you drive past the Tower of London, the railings round the moat were
put up by me. They'd been taken out for maintenance to the stonework,
and we had to put them back. ******* of a job because instead of jacking
the stanchions out of the lead filling in the sockets they'd been cut
off with a gas-axe leaving bits of steel bar set flush with the lead
which was flush with the stone. Getting them out wasn't pleasant.

Anyway, in one or two places whole coping stones had been replaced and
we had to bore new holes right by the edge of the drop into the moat.
The firm had a 1950s drill about the size of a pneumatic road drill -
with a torque handle a good 6' long. My job was to hold the handle. I
arranged things so that a snatch would pull me away from the moat -
until we got to the end of the row and there wasn't anywhere else to
stand. Yes, it snatched, and picked me up and dangled me over the moat.
The tourists seemed to think it was funny - until I said "Goodbye" and
let go.

What they couldn't see was that a truck had tipped loads of sand into
the moat leaving a very steep slope starting only a few feet below the
lip onto which I could fall and slide gracefully all the way down. It
was just a long walk back and a tricky moment explaining to security why
I was inside trying to get out.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

In article , Guy King
writes
The message
from "The Medway Handyman" contains
these words:

Good point about the torque bar. My Wickes jobby has a bar abot 16" long
and you really do need it!

If you drive past the Tower of London, the railings round the moat were
put up by me. They'd been taken out for maintenance to the stonework,
and we had to put them back. ******* of a job because instead of jacking
the stanchions out of the lead filling in the sockets they'd been cut
off with a gas-axe leaving bits of steel bar set flush with the lead
which was flush with the stone. Getting them out wasn't pleasant.

Anyway, in one or two places whole coping stones had been replaced and
we had to bore new holes right by the edge of the drop into the moat.
The firm had a 1950s drill about the size of a pneumatic road drill -
with a torque handle a good 6' long. My job was to hold the handle. I
arranged things so that a snatch would pull me away from the moat -
until we got to the end of the row and there wasn't anywhere else to
stand. Yes, it snatched, and picked me up and dangled me over the moat.
The tourists seemed to think it was funny - until I said "Goodbye" and
let go.

What they couldn't see was that a truck had tipped loads of sand into
the moat leaving a very steep slope starting only a few feet below the
lip onto which I could fall and slide gracefully all the way down.


It
was just a long walk back and a tricky moment explaining to security why
I was inside trying to get out.

LOL!......

No very many have it seems!...
--
Tony Sayer

I'm assuming you're timber framing and need to drill very deep peg
holes on site. When I was taught, we used something like this:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...62520&id=28582

Quite compact, but it's designed to be slow running - so full
power/torque at the lower cutting speeds that an auger bit likes to
draw itself along.

A chat with the Axminster helpline about the best possible auger
bit/drill combination might be useful:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/pf_id//ju...its-207874.htm

http://www.axminster.co.uk/pf_id//ju...its-207874.htm

http://www.axminster.co.uk/pf_id//ju...its-207874.htm

Sorry,incorrect URL's.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/1/p...110V-22306.htm

http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/2/p...rill-30526.htm

Both high torque drills.

BTW - can you tell us what you're producing in green oak? Whereabouts
are you based?

wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm assuming you're timber framing and need to drill very deep peg
holes on site. When I was taught, we used something like this:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...62520&id=28582

Quite compact, but it's designed to be slow running - so full
power/torque at the lower cutting speeds that an auger bit likes to
draw itself along.

A chat with the Axminster helpline about the best possible auger
bit/drill combination might be useful:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/pf_id//ju...its-207874.htm

http://www.axminster.co.uk/pf_id//ju...its-207874.htm

http://www.axminster.co.uk/pf_id//ju...its-207874.htm


We are electrical contractors who work with a bespoke joiner, and they have
started doing new build with green oak beams and complete oak installations.
We tried the cordless, but broke them, SDS is no good because the safety
clutches kick in.

We used new auger bits , or they were sharpened 2 or 3 times a day. The bits
were not the issue only the machine to drive them in.

I have had a look at your other post and I may give the Makita Cordless a
try. Failing that will will get the Metabo corded machine.

Thanks for everybody's advice

Regards

Steve

The message
from "Stephen Dawson" contains these words:

We tried the cordless, but broke them, SDS is no good because the safety
clutches kick in.

Cheap SDS machines have no clutches.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

The message
from "Stephen Dawson" contains these words:

We used new auger bits , or they were sharpened 2 or 3 times a day.
The bits
were not the issue only the machine to drive them in.

How about one of these?
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product...0&r=2042&g=106

You'd have to adapt it to clamps instead of magnets to hold it down, but
it's low-geared and powerful. They also sell larger ones.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

Stephen Dawson wrote:

I have had a look at your other post and I may give the Makita
Cordless a try. Failing that will will get the Metabo corded machine.

Wouldn't overlook the Wickes High Torque Drill, made by Kress in Germany.
85Nm takes some beating. £99 with a 3 year warranty.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
k...
Stephen Dawson wrote:

I have had a look at your other post and I may give the Makita
Cordless a try. Failing that will will get the Metabo corded machine.

Wouldn't overlook the Wickes High Torque Drill, made by Kress in Germany.
85Nm takes some beating. £99 with a 3 year warranty.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257



I will pop into Wickes and have a look.

In article ,
Stephen Dawson wrote:
Wouldn't overlook the Wickes High Torque Drill, made by Kress in
Germany. 85Nm takes some beating. £99 with a 3 year warranty.


I will pop into Wickes and have a look.

Might also be worth checking out Ebay for secondhand industrial machines -
I'm pretty certain I've seen them on sale, and they don't fetch that much.

--
*A journey of a thousand sites begins with a single click *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Stephen Dawson wrote:
Can anyone recommend a decnet drill, that is able to cope with green
oak, and auger drilling to 32mm x 450mm long. All the drills I own
are fantastic for concrete and we have never been beaten yet, but
when drilling oak the safety clutches kick in and then drill no more.

I've recently bought a Wickes 750W High Torque Rotary Drill for £99.99 which
is aweome.

Spec as follows;
3 fold gear reduction for high torque and drilling
Superb for driving large screws, bolts, drill and auger bits
Forward and reverse actions
Top speed pre-selection
Full wave electronics maintain constant speed even under varying loads
No load speed: 530rpm
Max torque: 85Nm
Drilling capacity Wood 70mm, Steel 16mm

http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/167241


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

Max torque: 85Nm

That's a very good torque figure. That drill's probably well suited to
driving a mixing paddle as well.

wrote:


Max torque: 85Nm


That's a very good torque figure. That drill's probably well suited to
driving a mixing paddle as well.

Not bad certainly, although the best cordless drills can match that
these days:

http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/...2018v%20Makita


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"Stephen Dawson" wrote in message
...
Can anyone recommend a decnet drill, that is able to cope with green oak,
and auger drilling to 32mm x 450mm long. All the drills I own are fantastic
for concrete and we have never been beaten yet, but when drilling oak the
safety clutches kick in and then drill no more.

TIA

Steve


======================
Even if you get a drill powerful enough it might snap the bits. It might be
worth trying to modify a bit so that the diameter is slightly reduced after the
first few inches of cutting length. It would work something like a forstner bit
but obviously not so exaggerated. I suppose you've already ruled out a spade
bit with extensions?

Cic.



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"Cicero" wrote in message
k...

"Stephen Dawson" wrote in message
...
Can anyone recommend a decnet drill, that is able to cope with green oak,
and auger drilling to 32mm x 450mm long. All the drills I own are
fantastic
for concrete and we have never been beaten yet, but when drilling oak the
safety clutches kick in and then drill no more.

TIA

Steve


======================
Even if you get a drill powerful enough it might snap the bits. It might
be
worth trying to modify a bit so that the diameter is slightly reduced
after the
first few inches of cutting length. It would work something like a
forstner bit
but obviously not so exaggerated. I suppose you've already ruled out a
spade
bit with extensions?

Cic.


Spade bit just does not cut in this applicaton.

Steve

How does the joinery company drill its peg holes?

They must have to do some cut to fit on site.

wrote:
How does the joinery company drill its peg holes?

They must have to do some cut to fit on site.

That's a good point.

To the OP:
Why not measure where your cables are going and give them the
specifications so that they can drill the holes?

BTW I can't see many cordless drills being much use on green oak. A 110
volt would be ideal though. Come to think of it, the last time I
drilled into that stuff was to put pegs in a truss.

I just used my little Makita 110v and a standard HSS bit, though that
would have been for a hole only 10 or 12 mm wide. It was long enough
ago that I can't quite remember.