I've got a few external timers that have a rough finish and are painted
in a flaking and yet still slightly sticky black paint that smells a
little of tar if you pull a bit off and rub it between your fingers.

The shop suggested Sadolin, but I'm sure that's for smooth timbers, and
its very "runny" and unlikely to cover minor imperfections, the odd
splash of white gloss etc.

What does the team think I should use?
--
Roland Perry

"Roland Perry" wrote in message
...
I've got a few external timers that have a rough finish and are painted
in a flaking and yet still slightly sticky black paint that smells a
little of tar if you pull a bit off and rub it between your fingers.

The shop suggested Sadolin, but I'm sure that's for smooth timbers, and
its very "runny" and unlikely to cover minor imperfections, the odd
splash of white gloss etc.

What does the team think I should use?
--
Roland Perry

Hi Roland, it sounds like a tar or bituminous paint. Either way it will bleed
through any solvent-based paint or stain such as Sadolins and ruin the finish.
There are water-based paints specially formulated for painting over tarry paint
on external timbers/cladding/barns etc.

http://www.birdbrand.co.uk/acatalog/..._Products.html
www.bedec.co.uk (click on Barn Paint)

All the loose and flaking stuff should be removed before you put the new paint
on. If you can get it all off even better. It would be worthwhile treating the
bare timbers with preservative. (Allow time for it to dry properly).

Peter

In message , at
12:30:50 on Sat, 5 Aug 2006, Peter Taylor remarked:
"Roland Perry" wrote in message
...
I've got a few external timers that have a rough finish and are painted
in a flaking and yet still slightly sticky black paint that smells a
little of tar if you pull a bit off and rub it between your fingers.

The shop suggested Sadolin, but I'm sure that's for smooth timbers, and
its very "runny" and unlikely to cover minor imperfections, the odd
splash of white gloss etc.

What does the team think I should use?

Hi Roland, it sounds like a tar or bituminous paint. Either way it will bleed
through any solvent-based paint or stain such as Sadolins and ruin the finish.
There are water-based paints specially formulated for painting over tarry paint
on external timbers/cladding/barns etc.

http://www.birdbrand.co.uk/acatalog/..._Products.html
www.bedec.co.uk (click on Barn Paint)

Thanks, I'll see if I can find something similar locally. What I really
want is just something to go over the top of what's there. There are
three beams about 8ft by six inches section (and two faces) - so I don't
need a huge amount - half a litre perhaps.

All the loose and flaking stuff should be removed before you put the new paint
on.

Loose and flaking, maybe.

If you can get it all off even better.

Not viable, I'm afraid. That would make it too big a job!

It would be worthwhile treating the bare timbers with preservative.
(Allow time for it to dry properly).

Yep, but I doubt they'll ever be bare
--
Roland Perry

"Roland Perry" wrote in message
...
In message , at
12:30:50 on Sat, 5 Aug 2006, Peter Taylor remarked:
"Roland Perry" wrote in message
...
I've got a few external timers that have a rough finish and are painted
in a flaking and yet still slightly sticky black paint that smells a
little of tar if you pull a bit off and rub it between your fingers.

The shop suggested Sadolin, but I'm sure that's for smooth timbers, and
its very "runny" and unlikely to cover minor imperfections, the odd
splash of white gloss etc.

What does the team think I should use?

Hi Roland, it sounds like a tar or bituminous paint. Either way it will
bleed
through any solvent-based paint or stain such as Sadolins and ruin the
finish.
There are water-based paints specially formulated for painting over tarry
paint
on external timbers/cladding/barns etc.

http://www.birdbrand.co.uk/acatalog/..._Products.html
www.bedec.co.uk (click on Barn Paint)

Thanks, I'll see if I can find something similar locally. What I really
want is just something to go over the top of what's there. There are
three beams about 8ft by six inches section (and two faces) - so I don't
need a huge amount - half a litre perhaps.

All the loose and flaking stuff should be removed before you put the new
paint
on.

Loose and flaking, maybe.

If you can get it all off even better.

Not viable, I'm afraid. That would make it too big a job!

The reason I said that is that if it's flaking off you'll continue getting
bare patches and need to keep recoating it.

It would be worthwhile treating the bare timbers with preservative.
(Allow time for it to dry properly).

Yep, but I doubt they'll ever be bare

I thought you said "what's there" is flaking off, which I take to mean there
are bare patches. You've lost me.

Peter


--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

In message , at 22:01:48 on
Wed, 9 Aug 2006, Peter Taylor remarked:
The reason I said that is that if it's flaking off you'll continue
getting bare patches and need to keep recoating it.

It would be worthwhile treating the bare timbers with preservative.
(Allow time for it to dry properly).

Yep, but I doubt they'll ever be bare

I thought you said "what's there" is flaking off, which I take to mean
there are bare patches. You've lost me.

If you peel off individual flakes, then underneath it's still
fundamentally black and gungy. Only a very few places (without flakes)
have got to the stage where a noticeable amount of the old paint has
"evaporated" and the [brown] underlying wood has become exposed.

This isn't the sort of flaking you get with conventional gloss paint
(and the wood surface is quite rough, not planed). Hence my desire to
find something to "paper over" the whole thing with even more black
gunge.

Would it help if I posted a photo (to a website somewhere)?
--
Roland Perry