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#81
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Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?
On Mon, 07 Aug 2006 00:09:05 +0100, Doctor Drivel wrote:
"John Stumbles" wrote in message news This works and provides excellent recovery but you do need a gravity (not sealed/unvented) primary. ??? What do you mean '???' ? If the primary is unvented you have an unvented hot water cylinder of 15l requiring all the appropriate safety controls. This rapidly gets outside DIY. |
#82
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Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?
"John Stumbles" wrote in message news On Mon, 07 Aug 2006 00:09:05 +0100, Doctor Drivel wrote: "John Stumbles" wrote in message news This works and provides excellent recovery but you do need a gravity (not sealed/unvented) primary. ??? What do you mean '???' ? If the primary is unvented you have an unvented hot water cylinder of 15l requiring all the appropriate safety controls. This rapidly gets outside DIY. You missed it. Some quick recovery cylinders can be quite expensive. I gave a solution which would outperform a quick recovery vented cylinder using a bronze pump, plate heat exchanger and cheap direct cylinder. The flow and return to the coil would just go into the plate heat exchanger. The plate and pump replaces the quick recovery coil. The bronze pump is switched in at the same time DHW is called. This will take all the output of a 40,50,60kW boiler outperforming a quick recovery coil and cheaper in many cases. Then I said if the mains pressure is good, using a flow switch and a cheaper pump a heat bank can be made from the same components. The cylinder will be vented at atmospheric pressure. The only high pressure is in one side of the plate. All cheap and works a treat. |
#83
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
On Tue, 08 Aug 2006 12:58:35 +0100, Doctor Drivel wrote:
"John Stumbles" wrote in message news On Mon, 07 Aug 2006 00:09:05 +0100, Doctor Drivel wrote: "John Stumbles" wrote in message news This works and provides excellent recovery but you do need a gravity (not sealed/unvented) primary. ??? What do you mean '???' ? If the primary is unvented you have an unvented hot water cylinder of 15l requiring all the appropriate safety controls. This rapidly gets outside DIY. You missed it. I don't think so ... Some quick recovery cylinders can be quite expensive. I gave a solution which would outperform a quick recovery vented cylinder using a bronze pump, plate heat exchanger and cheap direct cylinder. The flow and return to the coil would just go into the plate heat exchanger. The plate and pump replaces the quick recovery coil. The bronze pump is switched in at the same time DHW is called. This will take all the output of a 40,50,60kW boiler outperforming a quick recovery coil and cheaper in many cases. Yes I got that but that wasn't what I was talking about. Then I said if the mains pressure is good, using a flow switch and a cheaper pump a heat bank can be made from the same components. The cylinder will be vented at atmospheric pressure. The only high pressure is in one side of the plate. All cheap and works a treat. Yes, that was what I was responding to. I said that it gives excellent recovery (which mine certainly does) but I pointed out that the primary must be vented (which you didn't specifically mention in your earlier post though you do above). So are we agreed? Vented primary + direct cylinder + pump + flow switch + PHE = DIY heat bank/thermal store. My only reservation is that with my cheap standard direct cylinder ("Screwfix Direct direct cylinder") the amount of hot water you get from it off the electric immersion is probably only enough for a shower. I think it really needs a larger cylinder, and/or maybe an immersion heater mounted at the bottom of the cylinder to _reduce_ stratification when heated electrically. Probably something like a large off-peak storage cylinder would be more suitable. |
#84
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
On 2006-08-12 14:04:13 +0100, John Stumbles said:
My only reservation is that with my cheap standard direct cylinder ("Screwfix Direct direct cylinder") the amount of hot water you get from it off the electric immersion is probably only enough for a shower. I think it really needs a larger cylinder, and/or maybe an immersion heater mounted at the bottom of the cylinder to _reduce_ stratification when heated electrically. Probably something like a large off-peak storage cylinder would be more suitable. I suspect that this will generally be a problem with immersion heaters anyway. If you dump heat into an indirect cylinder from a boiler at 25-30kW, there will be considerable convection currents inside the cylinder. Obviously a direct cylinder is something else. With an immersion running at 3kW, there is much less convection, as witness the stratification that occurs anyway. Then unless the heater can be set to 75 degrees or more, the energy storage will be more limited vs. running at boiler flow temperatures. |
#85
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
"John Stumbles" wrote in message news On Tue, 08 Aug 2006 12:58:35 +0100, Doctor Drivel wrote: "John Stumbles" wrote in message news On Mon, 07 Aug 2006 00:09:05 +0100, Doctor Drivel wrote: "John Stumbles" wrote in message news This works and provides excellent recovery but you do need a gravity (not sealed/unvented) primary. ??? What do you mean '???' ? If the primary is unvented you have an unvented hot water cylinder of 15l requiring all the appropriate safety controls. This rapidly gets outside DIY. You missed it. I don't think so ... No, you never. We shall see. Some quick recovery cylinders can be quite expensive. I gave a solution which would outperform a quick recovery vented cylinder using a bronze pump, plate heat exchanger and cheap direct cylinder. The flow and return to the coil would just go into the plate heat exchanger. The plate and pump replaces the quick recovery coil. The bronze pump is switched in at the same time DHW is called. This will take all the output of a 40,50,60kW boiler outperforming a quick recovery coil and cheaper in many cases. Yes I got that but that wasn't what I was talking about. Then I said if the mains pressure is good, using a flow switch and a cheaper pump a heat bank can be made from the same components. The cylinder will be vented at atmospheric pressure. The only high pressure is in one side of the plate. All cheap and works a treat. Yes, that was what I was responding to. I said that it gives excellent recovery (which mine certainly does) but I pointed out that the primary must be vented (which you didn't specifically mention in your earlier post though you do above). The primary does not have to be vented at all. The cylinder can be heated via a coil and the primaries a part of a sealed unvented system. The only time they require venting, is if the cylinder is being heated directly. So are we agreed? You never got it. Vented primary + direct cylinder + pump + flow switch + PHE = DIY heat bank/thermal store. It doesn't have to be heated directly. My only reservation is that with my cheap standard direct cylinder ("Screwfix Direct direct cylinder") the amount of hot water you get from it off the electric immersion is probably only enough for a shower. I think it really needs a larger cylinder, and/or maybe an immersion heater mounted at the bottom of the cylinder to _reduce_ stratification when heated electrically. Probably something like a large off-peak storage cylinder would be more suitable. A large thermal store is an advantage if electric only. But an eletric boiler and pump will heat it up reasonably fast. |
#86
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2006-08-12 14:04:13 +0100, John Stumbles said: My only reservation is that with my cheap standard direct cylinder ("Screwfix Direct direct cylinder") the amount of hot water you get from it off the electric immersion is probably only enough for a shower. I think it really needs a larger cylinder, and/or maybe an immersion heater mounted at the bottom of the cylinder to _reduce_ stratification when heated electrically. Probably something like a large off-peak storage cylinder would be more suitable. I suspect that this will generally be a problem with immersion heaters anyway. If you dump heat into an indirect cylinder from a boiler at 25-30kW, there will be considerable convection currents inside the cylinder. Nope. Having a TMV (UFH type) on the boiler flow/return ensures only up to temp water enters the cylinder. From heat from cold of 20C the cylinder will heat from top down. You can feel the line of say 75C working its way down the cylinder, while just below the line it is 20C. Stratification is maintained |
#87
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
On 2006-08-12 16:48:12 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said:
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2006-08-12 14:04:13 +0100, John Stumbles said: My only reservation is that with my cheap standard direct cylinder ("Screwfix Direct direct cylinder") the amount of hot water you get from it off the electric immersion is probably only enough for a shower. I think it really needs a larger cylinder, and/or maybe an immersion heater mounted at the bottom of the cylinder to _reduce_ stratification when heated electrically. Probably something like a large off-peak storage cylinder would be more suitable. I suspect that this will generally be a problem with immersion heaters anyway. If you dump heat into an indirect cylinder from a boiler at 25-30kW, there will be considerable convection currents inside the cylinder. Nope. Yes. Having a TMV (UFH type) on the boiler flow/return ensures only up to temp water enters the cylinder. Additional component. From heat from cold of 20C the cylinder will heat from top down. You can feel the line of say 75C working its way down the cylinder, while just below the line it is 20C. Stratification is maintained I was talking about heating with a coil. In that case, it certainly isn't |
#88
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2006-08-12 16:48:12 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2006-08-12 14:04:13 +0100, John Stumbles said: My only reservation is that with my cheap standard direct cylinder ("Screwfix Direct direct cylinder") the amount of hot water you get from it off the electric immersion is probably only enough for a shower. I think it really needs a larger cylinder, and/or maybe an immersion heater mounted at the bottom of the cylinder to _reduce_ stratification when heated electrically. Probably something like a large off-peak storage cylinder would be more suitable. I suspect that this will generally be a problem with immersion heaters anyway. If you dump heat into an indirect cylinder from a boiler at 25-30kW, there will be considerable convection currents inside the cylinder. Nope. Yes. snip stupidity Matt, you are stupid and should not comment on things you know sweet FA about. Post about Makitas, that is your level. |
#89
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 16:43:53 +0100, Doctor Drivel wrote:
The primary does not have to be vented at all. The cylinder can be heated via a coil and the primaries a part of a sealed unvented system. The only time they require venting, is if the cylinder is being heated directly. The primary _does_ have to be vented if you are using an ordinary direct cylinder which is what we were talking about. Or actually what _you_ were talking about and what I followed up on. I know, you know, you know that I know and I know that you know that thermal stores can be heated indirectly, but this is not what we were talking about. |
#90
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 14:29:14 +0100, Andy Hall wrote:
Then unless the heater can be set to 75 degrees or more, the energy storage will be more limited vs. running at boiler flow temperatures. This is exacerbated in systems using external (plate) heat exchangers because the pump circulating water round the PHE runs at full bore regardless of the demand, so if you draw a gentle shower or run a hot tap at part flow you're liable to lose most of your hot water capacity through mixing within the cylinder long before you would have done if you were drawing only enough to provide the amount of DHW demanded. It should be easy enough to fix this either cleverly by modulating the pump or brute-force by restricting the flow with a TRV type affair. Either way would have the added benefit of doing away with the need for a TMV on the output of the PHE. |
#91
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
On 2006-08-15 00:48:54 +0100, John Stumbles said:
On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 14:29:14 +0100, Andy Hall wrote: Then unless the heater can be set to 75 degrees or more, the energy storage will be more limited vs. running at boiler flow temperatures. This is exacerbated in systems using external (plate) heat exchangers because the pump circulating water round the PHE runs at full bore regardless of the demand, so if you draw a gentle shower or run a hot tap at part flow you're liable to lose most of your hot water capacity through mixing within the cylinder long before you would have done if you were drawing only enough to provide the amount of DHW demanded. It should be easy enough to fix this either cleverly by modulating the pump or brute-force by restricting the flow with a TRV type affair. Either way would have the added benefit of doing away with the need for a TMV on the output of the PHE. Starting to get complicated, though, isn't it.... |
#92
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
"John Stumbles" wrote in message news On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 14:29:14 +0100, Andy Hall wrote: Then unless the heater can be set to 75 degrees or more, the energy storage will be more limited vs. running at boiler flow temperatures. If the cylinder has German insulation standards they heat loss is minimal. Levels in the UK are dire. This is exacerbated in systems using external (plate) heat exchangers because the pump circulating water round the PHE runs at full bore regardless of the demand, so if you draw a gentle shower or run a hot tap at part flow you're liable to lose most of your hot water capacity through mixing within the cylinder long before you would have done With adequate speading pipes in the cylinder this is not a big issue. if you were drawing only enough to provide the amount of DHW demanded. It should be easy enough to fix this either cleverly by modulating the pump Yep, as Gledhill do. or brute-force by restricting the flow with a TRV type affair. Yep, put a 2-port valve on the primaries from the cylinder that serve the PHE and have a remote sensor on the DHW flow to the taps. Works well. Danfoss do a good one. You may need a pressure by-pass valve around the thermostat 2-port valve to cope when the valve is fully closed. There is also the Grundfoss Alpha auto variable speed pump too. Setting up is a bit tricky as it may fight with the DHW thermostat. I have seen a few work very well and no pressure by-pass valve needed. Either way would have the added benefit of doing away with the need for a TMV on the output of the PHE. Yep, and another valve eliminated that reduces flow. Another is the PRV too. |
#93
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2006-08-15 00:48:54 +0100, John Stumbles said: On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 14:29:14 +0100, Andy Hall wrote: Then unless the heater can be set to 75 degrees or more, the energy storage will be more limited vs. running at boiler flow temperatures. This is exacerbated in systems using external (plate) heat exchangers because the pump circulating water round the PHE runs at full bore regardless of the demand, so if you draw a gentle shower or run a hot tap at part flow you're liable to lose most of your hot water capacity through mixing within the cylinder long before you would have done if you were drawing only enough to provide the amount of DHW demanded. It should be easy enough to fix this either cleverly by modulating the pump or brute-force by restricting the flow with a TRV type affair. Either way would have the added benefit of doing away with the need for a TMV on the output of the PHE. Starting to get complicated, though, isn't it.... No. |
#94
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
On 2006-08-17 22:22:52 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said:
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2006-08-15 00:48:54 +0100, John Stumbles said: On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 14:29:14 +0100, Andy Hall wrote: Then unless the heater can be set to 75 degrees or more, the energy storage will be more limited vs. running at boiler flow temperatures. This is exacerbated in systems using external (plate) heat exchangers because the pump circulating water round the PHE runs at full bore regardless of the demand, so if you draw a gentle shower or run a hot tap at part flow you're liable to lose most of your hot water capacity through mixing within the cylinder long before you would have done if you were drawing only enough to provide the amount of DHW demanded. It should be easy enough to fix this either cleverly by modulating the pump or brute-force by restricting the flow with a TRV type affair. Either way would have the added benefit of doing away with the need for a TMV on the output of the PHE. Starting to get complicated, though, isn't it.... No. Would you be willing to subsidise the extra cost?? |
#95
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2006-08-17 22:22:52 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2006-08-15 00:48:54 +0100, John Stumbles said: On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 14:29:14 +0100, Andy Hall wrote: Then unless the heater can be set to 75 degrees or more, the energy storage will be more limited vs. running at boiler flow temperatures. This is exacerbated in systems using external (plate) heat exchangers because the pump circulating water round the PHE runs at full bore regardless of the demand, so if you draw a gentle shower or run a hot tap at part flow you're liable to lose most of your hot water capacity through mixing within the cylinder long before you would have done if you were drawing only enough to provide the amount of DHW demanded. It should be easy enough to fix this either cleverly by modulating the pump or brute-force by restricting the flow with a TRV type affair. Either way would have the added benefit of doing away with the need for a TMV on the output of the PHE. Starting to get complicated, though, isn't it.... No. Would you be willing to subsidise the extra cost?? Matt, what are you on about. |
#96
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
On 2006-08-18 00:25:40 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said:
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2006-08-17 22:22:52 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2006-08-15 00:48:54 +0100, John Stumbles said: On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 14:29:14 +0100, Andy Hall wrote: Then unless the heater can be set to 75 degrees or more, the energy storage will be more limited vs. running at boiler flow temperatures. This is exacerbated in systems using external (plate) heat exchangers because the pump circulating water round the PHE runs at full bore regardless of the demand, so if you draw a gentle shower or run a hot tap at part flow you're liable to lose most of your hot water capacity through mixing within the cylinder long before you would have done if you were drawing only enough to provide the amount of DHW demanded. It should be easy enough to fix this either cleverly by modulating the pump or brute-force by restricting the flow with a TRV type affair. Either way would have the added benefit of doing away with the need for a TMV on the output of the PHE. Starting to get complicated, though, isn't it.... No. Would you be willing to subsidise the extra cost?? Matt, what are you on about. Meaning if you think it's not such a big deal, would you be willing to subsidise the installer for the additional cost of the components? Do you know what the additional cost, including the cost of diagnosing and replacing them as a result of failures during the system lifetime? |
#97
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2006-08-18 00:25:40 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2006-08-17 22:22:52 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2006-08-15 00:48:54 +0100, John Stumbles said: On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 14:29:14 +0100, Andy Hall wrote: Then unless the heater can be set to 75 degrees or more, the energy storage will be more limited vs. running at boiler flow temperatures. This is exacerbated in systems using external (plate) heat exchangers because the pump circulating water round the PHE runs at full bore regardless of the demand, so if you draw a gentle shower or run a hot tap at part flow you're liable to lose most of your hot water capacity through mixing within the cylinder long before you would have done if you were drawing only enough to provide the amount of DHW demanded. It should be easy enough to fix this either cleverly by modulating the pump or brute-force by restricting the flow with a TRV type affair. Either way would have the added benefit of doing away with the need for a TMV on the output of the PHE. Starting to get complicated, though, isn't it.... No. Would you be willing to subsidise the extra cost?? Matt, what are you on about. Meaning if you think it's not such a big deal, would you be willing to subsidise the installer for the additional cost of the components? Do you know what the additional cost, including the cost of diagnosing and replacing them as a result of failures during the system lifetime? Matt, you have to stop prattling ********. A 2-port remote sensor thermostat valve is not super expensive and it eliminates a TMV too. |
#98
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DIY thermal store (was Standard or "Superduty" hot water cylinder?)
"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message reenews.net... "John Stumbles" wrote in message news On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 14:29:14 +0100, Andy Hall wrote: Then unless the heater can be set to 75 degrees or more, the energy storage will be more limited vs. running at boiler flow temperatures. If the cylinder has German insulation standards they heat loss is minimal. Levels in the UK are dire. This is exacerbated in systems using external (plate) heat exchangers because the pump circulating water round the PHE runs at full bore regardless of the demand, so if you draw a gentle shower or run a hot tap at part flow you're liable to lose most of your hot water capacity through mixing within the cylinder long before you would have done With adequate speading pipes in the cylinder this is not a big issue. if you were drawing only enough to provide the amount of DHW demanded. It should be easy enough to fix this either cleverly by modulating the pump Yep, as Gledhill do. or brute-force by restricting the flow with a TRV type affair. Yep, put a 2-port valve on the primaries from the cylinder that serve the PHE and have a remote sensor on the DHW flow to the taps. Works well. Danfoss do a good one. You may need a pressure by-pass valve around the thermostat 2-port valve to cope when the valve is fully closed. There is also the Grundfoss Alpha auto variable speed pump too. Setting up is a bit tricky as it may fight with the DHW thermostat. I have seen a few work very well and no pressure by-pass valve needed. Either way would have the added benefit of doing away with the need for a TMV on the output of the PHE. Yep, and another valve eliminated that reduces flow. Another is the PRV too. Another way is switch speeds of the DHW plate heat ex pump - Keston do this with a Grundfoss. Using two flow switches set at different flows can switch in the pump's speed. Low DHW flows and low speed, higher flows and the high switching flow switch cuts in and a faster speed. Simple and effective. |
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