Hi,

I've search the newsgroup but I've been left confused as to the best way
to achieve my goal.

I'm planning the wiring for my kitchen and will be doing the work
myself, followed by the respective BCO visits (before anyone asks ).

I will be having a gas hob and an electric single oven (below the
counter under the hob) and I need to provide power to both. I would
like the solution to be elegant enough that in time the gas hob could be
easily swapped for an electric hob, without having to add extra power
connections to do so.

My plan is to have a separate ring circuit (2.5mm) for the kitchen and a
dedicated (from the CU) radial circuit (6mm) for the cooker and hob.
However I can't work out the best way to connect everything to the circuit.

Is it acceptable to have the 45A cooker switch above the counter, linked
to either a cooker plate (the type that can be wired into), or to a
double unswitched (13A presumably) socket into which both the cooker and
hob can be plugged? Either option would be hidden away under the
counter. The cooker plate method would require both appliances to be
wired on to the same block, effectively acting as a junction box.

Is there a better way to do this? I'm hoping to minimise the number of
above counter isolating switches if I can help it.

thankyousam wrote:
Hi,

I've search the newsgroup but I've been left confused as to the best way
to achieve my goal.

I'm planning the wiring for my kitchen and will be doing the work
myself, followed by the respective BCO visits (before anyone asks ).

I will be having a gas hob and an electric single oven (below the
counter under the hob) and I need to provide power to both. I would
like the solution to be elegant enough that in time the gas hob could be
easily swapped for an electric hob, without having to add extra power
connections to do so.

My plan is to have a separate ring circuit (2.5mm) for the kitchen and a
dedicated (from the CU) radial circuit (6mm) for the cooker and hob.
However I can't work out the best way to connect everything to the circuit.

Is it acceptable to have the 45A cooker switch above the counter, linked
to either a cooker plate (the type that can be wired into), or to a
double unswitched (13A presumably) socket into which both the cooker and
hob can be plugged? Either option would be hidden away under the
counter. The cooker plate method would require both appliances to be
wired on to the same block, effectively acting as a junction box.

Is there a better way to do this? I'm hoping to minimise the number of
above counter isolating switches if I can help it.
as far as gas cut off, i.e gas tap you only require it to be accessible
and obviously present. i don't know about leccy regs but it will be an
'always on' switch so as for hiding it just put it out of sight but
easyily accessible.

prolly some nic will kick off about that comment!

thankyousam wrote:
Hi,

I've search the newsgroup but I've been left confused as to the best way
to achieve my goal.

I'm planning the wiring for my kitchen and will be doing the work
myself, followed by the respective BCO visits (before anyone asks ).

I will be having a gas hob and an electric single oven (below the
counter under the hob) and I need to provide power to both. I would
like the solution to be elegant enough that in time the gas hob could be
easily swapped for an electric hob, without having to add extra power
connections to do so.

My plan is to have a separate ring circuit (2.5mm) for the kitchen and a
dedicated (from the CU) radial circuit (6mm) for the cooker and hob.
However I can't work out the best way to connect everything to the circuit.

Is it acceptable to have the 45A cooker switch above the counter, linked
to either a cooker plate (the type that can be wired into), or to a
double unswitched (13A presumably) socket into which both the cooker and
hob can be plugged? Either option would be hidden away under the
counter. The cooker plate method would require both appliances to be
wired on to the same block, effectively acting as a junction box.

Is there a better way to do this? I'm hoping to minimise the number of
above counter isolating switches if I can help it.
Oops, of course I meant Providing Power, not proving power. I'm happy
about the gas feed, just how to get electricity to the two appliances in
the correct fashion.

On Wed, 26 Jul 2006 20:15:01 GMT someone who may be thankyousam
wrote this:-

Is it acceptable to have the 45A cooker switch above the counter, linked
to either a cooker plate (the type that can be wired into), or to a
double unswitched (13A presumably) socket into which both the cooker and
hob can be plugged? Either option would be hidden away under the
counter. The cooker plate method would require both appliances to be
wired on to the same block, effectively acting as a junction box.

Step 1, read the instructions for the oven and find out what size of
protective device is needed to protect it.

Step 2, ditto for the hob.

Step 3 depends on the answers to the first two steps. However
assuming that the answers are 20A and 3A:-

Step 3, install a protective device suitable for the oven at the
consumer unit. Install a cable, suitable for use later with an
electric hob as well, to a cooker switch. Install a cable of the
same size from there to a cooker outlet.

Step 4, install a cable (which may be of a smaller size, as long as
it will be protected by the device in the consumer unit) from the
cooker outlet to the oven.

Step 5, install a cable (same size as step 4) from the cooker outlet
to a suitably placed fused connection unit.

There are a number of other options, all equally valid depending on
circumstances.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

thankyousam wrote:
Hi,

I've search the newsgroup but I've been left confused as to the best way
to achieve my goal.

I'm planning the wiring for my kitchen and will be doing the work
myself, followed by the respective BCO visits (before anyone asks ).

I will be having a gas hob and an electric single oven (below the
counter under the hob) and I need to provide power to both. I would
like the solution to be elegant enough that in time the gas hob could be
easily swapped for an electric hob, without having to add extra power
connections to do so.

snip
One of the other posters have given you a very good five point plan to
follow RE the Leccy, only thing I would add is that you should check at
an early stage that the particular oven and hob are suitable for
mounting over/under each other (and within the cabinet you have in
mind) Seems pretty stupid that you can't just mix and match anything,
but you can't (even if sticking to the one manufacturer!). Download
the instructions for each appliance from the web (if available and you
don't already have them) and read, read, read.

Do come back with any questions, and to let us know what you did!

Also, it might be worth running your intended method past the BCO if
you are going for part taking the pee, and again report back if there
is a problem.