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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Worktop surface
Hi, all.
I'm about to build a workbench along one wall of my double garage. It will be around 4m long. It will have a fairly large vice installed in it, directly above one of the supports. I plan to make up 5 wooden trusses to be placed at 1m intervals, with long strips of wood front and rear as additional supports for the topping. ( This frame will all be made from reclaimed timber approx. 3" x 1.5" recovered from some massive packing crates we regularly recieve shipments from the US in. ) As for the top, I reckoned on using cheapish 600mm 40mm thick worktop. That will work out at around £116 for 4.1m length. I could also use 2 thicknesses of 18mm ply as a cheaper option. Slightly more utilitarian looking, but I suppose I could veneer it in some way. That sounds a bit hassly. Any other suggestions? Or any cheaper suppliers of utility-grade worktop? -- Ron |
#2
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Worktop surface
On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 20:15:38 +0100, "Ron Lowe"
had this to say: Hi, all. I'm about to build a workbench along one wall of my double garage. It will be around 4m long. It will have a fairly large vice installed in it, directly above one of the supports. You'd probably find it more useful to fit the vice slightly to the _side_ of a support. This will give room for awkwardly-shaped pieces you might want to hold in the vice. Assuming it's an engineers vice, don't forget to have the rear jaw _slightly_ proud (say 1/8") of the front of the bench, so that you can hold a long vertical job without the bench being in the way. -- Frank Erskine Sunderland |
#3
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Worktop surface
Ron Lowe said
Hi, all. I'm about to build a workbench along one wall of my double garage. It will be around 4m long. It will have a fairly large vice installed in it, directly above one of the supports. I plan to make up 5 wooden trusses to be placed at 1m intervals, with long strips of wood front and rear as additional supports for the topping. ( This frame will all be made from reclaimed timber approx. 3" x 1.5" recovered from some massive packing crates we regularly recieve shipments from the US in. ) As for the top, I reckoned on using cheapish 600mm 40mm thick worktop. That will work out at around #116 for 4.1m length. I could also use 2 thicknesses of 18mm ply as a cheaper option. Slightly more utilitarian looking, but I suppose I could veneer it in some way. That sounds a bit hassly. Any other suggestions? Or any cheaper suppliers of utility-grade worktop? Go to a local sawmill and see it they have any off cuts of hard timber (oak etc) so you can glue, screw them together. A bench collapsing half way though a job an fun -- zaax Lightning page: http://tinyurl.com/hmpw9 |
#4
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Worktop surface
Ron Lowe wrote:
I could also use 2 thicknesses of 18mm ply as a cheaper option. You don't really need 2 thickness's for most jobs if its well supported. I have a 15' x 2' bench wall mounted with an 18mm MDF top. Slightly more utilitarian looking, but I suppose I could veneer it in some way. That sounds a bit hassly. Use 18mm ply & top it with 3mm hardboard/MDF. When the top gets scuzzy just replace it. -- Dave The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk 01634 717930 07850 597257 |
#5
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Worktop surface
On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 20:15:38 +0100, "Ron Lowe"
wrote: As for the top, I reckoned on using cheapish 600mm 40mm thick worktop. That will work out at around £116 for 4.1m length. Nasty _and_ expensive! I could also use 2 thicknesses of 18mm ply as a cheaper option. A much better idea. You should be able to find spruce shuttering ply that's strong and cheap. Not _the_ cheapest, but the cheapest you'd actually want to live with. Birch costs a fortune and even the rainforest stuff is more than the spruce. 2 x 3/4" sheets is the usual recommendation. Anything else is too bouncy. Laminate them together with permanent glue, then lightly stick (double-sided tape is fine) a layer of 4mm MDF on the top, which you can replace when it looks chewed. Finish the top of this with varnish, or at least wax polish, so as to keep the moisture a little at bay. Splash out on some hardwood edging strip and do a decent job of it. |
#6
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Worktop surface
"Ron Lowe" wrote in message ... Hi, all. I'm about to build a workbench along one wall of my double garage. It will be around 4m long. It will have a fairly large vice installed in it, directly above one of the supports. I plan to make up 5 wooden trusses to be placed at 1m intervals, with long strips of wood front and rear as additional supports for the topping. ( This frame will all be made from reclaimed timber approx. 3" x 1.5" recovered from some massive packing crates we regularly recieve shipments from the US in. ) As for the top, I reckoned on using cheapish 600mm 40mm thick worktop. That will work out at around £116 for 4.1m length. I could also use 2 thicknesses of 18mm ply as a cheaper option. Slightly more utilitarian looking, but I suppose I could veneer it in some way. That sounds a bit hassly. Any other suggestions? Or any cheaper suppliers of utility-grade worktop? -- Ron Just bought 2 off 3 metre long 40mm worktops from B and Q at £40 each - various colours and the 28 mm thick ones were cheaper - may need more supports but if supports are free ....?? Nick |
#7
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Worktop surface
in 549975 20060717 212529 Andy Dingley wrote:
On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 20:15:38 +0100, "Ron Lowe" wrote: As for the top, I reckoned on using cheapish 600mm 40mm thick worktop. That will work out at around £116 for 4.1m length. Nasty _and_ expensive! I could also use 2 thicknesses of 18mm ply as a cheaper option. A much better idea. You should be able to find spruce shuttering ply that's strong and cheap. Not _the_ cheapest, but the cheapest you'd actually want to live with. Birch costs a fortune and even the rainforest stuff is more than the spruce. 2 x 3/4" sheets is the usual recommendation. Anything else is too bouncy. Laminate them together with permanent glue, then lightly stick (double-sided tape is fine) a layer of 4mm MDF on the top, which you can replace when it looks chewed. Finish the top of this with varnish, or at least wax polish, so as to keep the moisture a little at bay. Splash out on some hardwood edging strip and do a decent job of it. But don't expect it to stay flat !! I've a had a lot of problems recently with 18 mm ply warping - sometimes quite badly. And it isn't cheap stuff - it's the best available at my local yard. |
#8
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Worktop surface
On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 20:15:38 +0100, Ron Lowe wrote:
Hi, all. I'm about to build a workbench along one wall of my double garage. ... stuff deleted As for the top, I reckoned on using cheapish 600mm 40mm thick worktop. That will work out at around £116 for 4.1m length. I could also use 2 thicknesses of 18mm ply as a cheaper option. Slightly more utilitarian looking, but I suppose I could veneer it in some way. That sounds a bit hassly. Any other suggestions? Or any cheaper suppliers of utility-grade worktop? I have surfaced my 2 workbenches in hardboard (over ply). Over time the top takes a lot of rough treatment and gets cut-up/drilled/painted/written-on. Hardboard is cheap and since it's only pinned down, I can easily rip out the old stuff and cheaply replace it when the time comes - which it will. (I first saw this method on "The New Yankee Workshop") Pete -- .................................................. ......................... .. never trust a man who, when left alone ...... Pete Lynch . .. in a room with a tea cosy ...... Marlow, England . .. doesn't try it on (Billy Connolly) ..................................... |
#9
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Worktop surface
The message
from "Ron Lowe" contains these words: Any other suggestions? My local market sells offcuts and damaged kitchen worktops. My main bench is 3m of damaged (the laminate delaminated) 40mm top with a hardboard facing. Cost about fifteen quid all in. -- Skipweasel Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain. |
#10
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Worktop surface
I have a similar project in mind having just broken the corner of my lab
bench by applying too much when straightening a bike side stand gripped in the corner-mounted engineers vice :-( I wondered about replacing the original chipboard/Formica worksurface with some suitably thick ply plus a sheet steel top. Any thoughts? Richard |
#11
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Worktop surface
Richard wrote:
I have a similar project in mind having just broken the corner of my lab bench by applying too much when straightening a bike side stand gripped in the corner-mounted engineers vice :-( I wondered about replacing the original chipboard/Formica worksurface with some suitably thick ply plus a sheet steel top. Any thoughts? Richard I simply used 18mm MDF on top of a 4" square softwood frame. No obvious distortion, has taken a battering, and should I need to - replaced easily with a few screws removed. sheet steel top - depends - a good way to knacker up any bladed tools. Interesting memories as an apprentice - the machinists had steel covered benches, the fitters had wooden benches and the sparks had vinyl (or something) covered wooden benches - dunno if there's any relevance there. |
#12
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Worktop surface
The message
from Mike Dodd contains these words: sheet steel top - depends - a good way to knacker up any bladed tools. And the slightest trace of rust will mark any timber you slide along it. -- Skipweasel Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain. |
#13
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Worktop surface
"Ron Lowe" wrote in message
... Hi, all. I'm about to build a workbench along one wall of my double garage. It will be around 4m long. It will have a fairly large vice installed in it, directly above one of the supports. I plan to make up 5 wooden trusses to be placed at 1m intervals, with long strips of wood front and rear as additional supports for the topping. ( This frame will all be made from reclaimed timber approx. 3" x 1.5" recovered from some massive packing crates we regularly recieve shipments from the US in. ) As for the top, I reckoned on using cheapish 600mm 40mm thick worktop. That will work out at around £116 for 4.1m length. I could also use 2 thicknesses of 18mm ply as a cheaper option. Slightly more utilitarian looking, but I suppose I could veneer it in some way. That sounds a bit hassly. Any other suggestions? Or any cheaper suppliers of utility-grade worktop? I got a damaged/chipped 3m worktop for my garage from B&Q for £18. |
#14
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Worktop surface
Andy Dingley wrote:
On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 20:15:38 +0100, "Ron Lowe" wrote: As for the top, I reckoned on using cheapish 600mm 40mm thick worktop. That will work out at around £116 for 4.1m length. Nasty _and_ expensive! I could also use 2 thicknesses of 18mm ply as a cheaper option. A much better idea. You should be able to find spruce shuttering ply that's strong and cheap. Not _the_ cheapest, but the cheapest you'd actually want to live with. Birch costs a fortune and even the rainforest stuff is more than the spruce. Yeah, that's what I did - an 8x4 sheet cut in half and folded lengthways. Glued under weight (sacks of sand), fixed to a simple 4x2 frame and then sanded & varnished. It's really solid - you can mount a heavy vice and pound away at it all day (fnarr fnarr), really good workshop solution imho. |
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